My Chanel-type jacket - part 3. It's finished.

My last post about this jacket was over 4 months ago as I was busy with family things and making the outfits for the murder mystery weekend (with of course the exception of David’s Franciscan monk’s outfit that he made entirely by himself), posted earlier. However, I hadn’t completely forgotten about the jacket.

This post has been part written on each of several days. Today I just wanted to get it posted (I'm still feeling rather unwell). The quality of the photos could be better (understatement!)

After my last post, I removed the sleeves, reduced the size of the seam allowance in order to give a bit more space for my biceps and re-attached to the armscye. Previously, my pattern matching was absolutely perfect but for some reason I couldn’t get it perfect this time - strange as the sleeve attachment previously was very wonky as I discovered when I was removing - the seam width changed a few times and in places I had double or even triple stitched as I was having issues inserting the sleeves originally. I had to consider how many times it was appropriate to redo and took advice from Rory and Dan (Gillian's classes were finished) - their advice was that the sleeves hung beautifully and the pattern matching was fine so to leave. I took their advice. I also had to take into account that while this jacket will work for me, the sleeves are too short and although the fringe will hopefully disguise that, I’m not really a fringe person!! So this could be a really fancy wearable toile! No, not a toile as I will consider it a finished jacket but it will highlight any future changes required.

The next step was to create the fringe. As suggested by both Mary (Cloning Couture) in comment on my last blog post and Kate at my weekend sewing trip, I did try cutting the fabric strips on the bias and compared this to straight stitching. However, I preferred the appearance of the straight fabric strips. In addition, I had originally auditioned two fabric strips on top of the lining but found I preferred only one as it was less full - as I said above, I’m not really a fringe/frilly person and I found the two layers to be a bit ‘too much’. Anyway, I told myself, Chanel actually used the selvedge from the fabric (I considered that too) and one layer appeared closer to that. I used the lining fabric cut on the bias to allow it to go around corners more readily. Some people have asked me about this and how I did it. I'll have a look to see if I have any photos - I think I do but my computer is in intensive care and I've bought a new one which I haven't got set up as yet. I might have some on my phone. I'll post if I can - or perhaps post at a later date. I can't check at the moment.

I created the fringe strips in my sewing bee with Rory. Sorry Rory for the incredible mess this made (glad I wasn’t doing it at home!!). I couldn’t believe how many threads and the amount of lint from my fabric strips! I did have to trim the strips afterwards as they were a little too wide. Even more mess. I attached the strips to the bias cut lining and was ready to go.

I had already marked my jacket just inside the seam allowance with machine stitching, which would also act as stay stitching. Gillian had said to put tape around the neckline but as I was adding two layers of lining underneath into the neckline turnover, I decided, rightly or wrongly, that I didn’t need to do this.

I attached the lining part of the strips to the jacket fronts and neckline, just like you do with piping, carefully ensuring that the junction between the lining and the fabric lay along the stitching line. This was more difficult than it sounds as I could scarcely see my staystitching. Maybe I should have used a contrast colour of thread. I pinned and then tacked. I quite enjoy the process of tacking (basting) by hand and feel that it made it more likely for the horizontal patterns on the fringe and the jacket to match. I then machine stitched the fringe to the right side of the fabric. I did this at my last class of the year with Lyn, who helped me with the corners. I found it very difficult to sew with the bulk of the fabric on my right as was required for one of the corners. I didn't add fringing to the bottom hem. Despite my care, the pattern between jacket fronts and fringe doesn't exactly match but I’ve decided to leave it as I don’t want to carry the jacket unfinished over to 2018!

Ha! It's now 2018. Don't say you're surprised that I didn't get the jacket finished! In December, I started and completed the long-promised red silk dress for Helen, made a few Christmas presents and finished my knitted waistcoat. I did a little on the jacket but I'm unfortunately not someone who can watch TV while working and I usually watch with David in the latter part of the evening. If I'm really pushed, I'll sew right up to bedtime but I prefer not to do that.

Next step was to turn up the jacket hem and stitch it in place. I placed curtain chain weight in the hem fold and secured that at seam lines and the ends. This was the process if there is no fringing - I'm not completely sure how I would have done this with fringing. Just a minor modification to the process, I feel.

I said I didn't like the double fringing but the single seems a bit scrappy. I think maybe I'm just not a fringing person. I decided I'd continue, though. Next time I'd go for braiding - I would've done with this one if the sleeves had been long enough. I bought a choice of braid and of buttons but haven't used either.

Next, the lining seams. Sleeves first. The under layer of lining is smoothed across the seam and pinned in place down the seam line. It's then cut level with the fabric edge (forgot to say seam allowances were trimmed). Then the other side is smoothed across and folded under level with the seam line and the first pin taken out and transferred to keep the two lining areas in place. In some cases, I had stitched my quilting lines too close to the seam lines - I needed more side than I had anticipated. So I had to unpick a fair bit of my quilting and re-tie my threads. This is an ongoing task. Next time, I would be aware of just how far away from the edges I need to stay and this would save quite a bit of time.

It isn't too difficult - but, boy, is it tedious! I do hope it will be strong enough! I'd hate my lining to start falling apart.

I continued in this vein, a little bit each day. Things did move on and the hand sewing was often a relief from the day. Today (Thursday 25 January), I had just the sleeve lining/jacket lining armscye junction to do. I took it to class with Lyn - I haven't been well, not yet recovered and wanted a simple almost mindless task. Lyn advised folding the jacket seam allowances towards the sleeve rather than opening them out as elsewhere. She felt this would give a nice shape. I did this, then smoothed the under layer of lining over, pinned then tacked them in place, identifying the stitching line. Here Lyn offered an important piece of advice - the need to ensure the lining is not pulled too tight. I had been pulling too tight so adjusted that. After I pinned the over lining over, I tacked and removed the pins so I could try the jacket on. I think it looks pretty good. When I tried on, the tacking stitch was under pressure in one area so I added a little extra there.

I finished stitching one sleeve in place and managed to get the other stitched in place tonight.

I'm not putting pockets - or mock pockets, as you no doubt guessed.

So that's it finished!

I'm quite excited now that I see it finished!

It's rather crushed so I'll hang on Madame and steam tomorrow. David liked it when I tried it on and said he'll take some photos tomorrow.

I didn't steam before I took the photos as I was worried about losing what little light there was available. I also realised just now as I was finishing this post, that I didn't put the chain on around the lining/hem junction - after all that searching for suitable chain!! I'll probably leave it off.

Summary of resources used:

Chanel jacket class by Gillian Hargreaves - 2 days. I attended with Margaret (The Crafty Creek), who has blogged about the course. I'm not sure if she has finished the jacket as there has been no further blog post.

The Iconic Tweed Jacket by Lorna Knight (Craftsy class) I bought this a while ago and hadn't watched. I found it a great class and enjoyed the instructor but her methods were slightly different from those I was following from Gillian.

Books by Claire Schaefer

Assistance in class from Rory (Centre Front Studios) and from Lyn (WEA) as mentioned in body of text.

Then on to other projects!

Making a Chanel-type jacket day 2

In progress

Following my last class, my tasks were to quilt the lining to the fabric/interfacing combo. Purists will realise that a 'proper' Chanel jacket doesn't have any interfacing but the interfacing here was ultra soft and lovely and probably helped me handle the fabric. To quilt, I did large herring bone basting stitching across the pieces, to secure them together. I originally tried pins down the lines of my stitching. These nicely marked the lines and secured the fabric but a couple caught the fabric so I ended up not going that way.

The pins here show where the stitching is going to go

Each piece was quilted with a line of stitching from the right side of the fabric, starting in the middle of each piece and ensuring the combo lay smoothly. I had a suitable pattern to follow. Each line of stitching is finished at least 1" from the sides and 3" from the hem. The process is not difficult, I was glad to find. You can, by the way, handstitch the quilting but that's not for me. In my case, I had to reduce the machine thread tension - and now think I could perhaps have reduced it a bit more. In my practice piece, I used a piece of fabric that had inadvertently been fused with interfacing on the 'wrong' side and the quilting lines are completely invisible. That's not the case with the other side of the fabric but at least my lines are even! My fabric could be used either way. I actually preferred the side I've used as the wrong side but Gillian pointed out that it would be particularly prone to getting caught so I took her advice and used the other.

So the pieces quilted were - fronts x 2, side fronts x 2, back x1, undersleeve x 2 and sleeve x 2. I did make a new back piece as when I looked at the piece I had, it was skewed. I only found this when I went to start the quilting. So I made up a new pattern piece the full back piece (the original has you cut on the fold by whatever means you choose to interpret that - mine was not on the fold, but flipped over on a single layer of fabric). It might have been okay but I had enough fabric to redo so that's what I did.

The underlying pattern shows the discrepancy

Better focus than the previous one

The stitching lines from the quilting were left with long threads at the end. These were pulled through to the inside of the sandwich and we tied them off. My lines were too close to the ends, particularly as there were a number of adjustments carried out in my fitting so these will have to be retied. It's important not to tie the ends too tightly, or that causes a dimple on the right side of the fabric. My ends are much shorter now so that will be a challenge!

After the quilting, I had to baste the jacket together for the final fitting. The fashion fabric is sewn together, but the lining left free. I used a big stitch on my sewing machine for this. Margaret hand basted. We roughly inserted one sleeve only.

On the way to staying with Margaret prior to the second class, I made another attempt to get suitable chain for the jacket and was partially successful. I had ordered some on-line but it was much too fine.

On Friday night, Margaret and I sat finalising our homework. Of course, we each tried our partially completed jackets to see what we thought. I thought Margaret needed quite a whack taken in at the shoulder princess seams as the shoulders were much too wide and the sleeve was lying strangely at the top. Margaret had also allowed extra for her hips but this wasn't necessary. I thought mine was too tight in the sleeves.

Day 2

When I was making up my jacket, I had taken in at the princess seams on the shoulder, tapering downwards towards the bust apex in front, as recommended previously but in fact, I needed even more as the shoulders were still too wide. Still - no alteration to the armscye! Lesson learned. There was even more taken out over the back - the original curve there is now much straighter.  Just under the arms on the side seams was also taken in, only for a short way.

Jacket basted, one sleeve roughly basted in

Right shoulder and back pinned (you can see in mirror)

I addition, my right shoulder required fabric to be removed from the neckline. This shoulder also needed to be shortened by taking in another portion at the princess seams. The left shoulder didn't require this. Yes, my shoulders are wonky!

Gillian pinning changes. You can just see the alteration to the neckline edge of my right shoulder

To my surprise, I didn't need to use the extra seam allowance sewn to increase hip width.

The jacket looked and felt much better.

I spent AGES, far too long, making the adjustments necessary - this because the patterns needed to be matched. The first time around, I hadn't been too worried about 'perfection' as I knew adjustments would be needed, but this time, things had to be right. It was tough, particularly over the curved bust area where there is both easing and pattern matching to be achieved. Also, I had to unpick lines of quilting as these now interfered with my adjustments.

Adjustments made. Pinned on centre front. Not pressed yet. No sleeves yet.

Next step was to trim any excess fabric from the seam allowances and insert the sleeves. Time was actually rather short so we trimmed just enough to finish sewing the shoulders and insert the sleeves. The jacket got a good pressing before this - apparently the last opportunity!

Gillian was happy with my jacket so far.

None of the hems done as yet so lots of raw edges and loose threads

She showed us the next stages.

• Taping the neckline.
• Folding up the hem and inserting the curtain chain weight.
• Margaret is doing buttons so she had a facing and will need to do buttonholes. She is planning to do machine buttonholes. I have no facing as my lining goes right to the edge. I think Margaret is also planning to insert flange piping between her lining and facing. That looks rather nice.
• How to sew the ling beautifully, by hand. Margaret got to start hers but I'm quite a bit away from that as yet.
• How to add braid to the jacket edges. I was going to add braid but Gillian showed me how to fringe the fabric and I decided I'll go with that. Basically a strip of lining, two strips of fabric laid over it, sewn longitudinally down the middle. Then lining folded away from fabric (this is sewn to jacket fabric on right side on seam allowance for front) and fabric fringed by removing the warp threads. My sleeves ended up a bit short so I have decided that this is a suitable fix - fringe added to the sleeve cuffs.
• How to do a mock welt pocket. Not a working pocket, which neither of us wanted. I need to decide whether to do a button or a fringe trim to match the front I'm planning

·        You'll realise that I'm not intending to do 'couture'

Since getting home, I have decided again that the sleeves are a bit tight. I had originally thought that perhaps after trimming the allowances etc they would be fine but I'm thinking not so best to do this now. I'll add just a touch at the two seams - even 1/8" would add a total of 1/2".

I don't think the finishing touches are difficult to do - fitting is clearly the biggest issue - but they are time consuming. I'm short of time at the moment so will probably do what I need to do a very little at a time and it will be a while before I can model the finished jacket.

I haven't yet made the amendments to the pattern for future reference but will do that soon, maybe today, before I forget what they all were!

I made the long jacket version but the length is fine for me as a shorter version and to do the long version with buttons, I'll need to lengthen the pattern by at least 2".  I'll also lengthen the sleeves.