Tester version of extended size range Blackwood Cardigan

I really liked the versions of the Blackwood cardigan I made in March 2018. I intended to make another but the fabric I bought specifically for it was distinctly off-grain. At sewing bee, however, Rory showed me how to correct this; she thought I'd be able to use it okay. I didn’t get around to making the cardigan after trying the correction and the fabric was left languishing.

Then, late last year, I got the opportunity to test Helen’s new draft Blackwood cardigan, which will come in an expanded size range and in a D cup as well as the original B cup. She asked for testers and I responded. The testing ran from 4th to 14th January, though I had to get mine done earlier as I was going away for a long weekend. I believe the final pattern could be released as early as the end of this month, after all the tester input is analysed

Completed tester version

I bought new fabric and prepped it but the pattern made my eyes cross so at the end of the day, I used that original fabric, that had been off-grain but which had now been corrected with varying degrees of success. I had cut the pieces into appropriate Blackwood cardigan sized pieces prior to treating.

I chose my size. Although I am ‘officially’ only a B cup by the way patterns including this one calculate this, I can’t get along with that and nearly always have to do a full bust adjustment. I just don't think that this particular measurement can take your particular body shape into account. Indeed, on the previous two Blackwoods I made, I had done a ‘cheater’ FBA and a full biceps adjustment as well as lengthening the short cardigan by 3 inches.

Previous version

Previous version

Previous version

I felt that there were two things I would change from the first time.  The first was that the sleeves were a bit tight when a sleeved tee was underneath.  The matching ‘twinset’ top caused a very distinct VSL  - visible sleeve line - but that fabric is fairly bulky.

This time, I decided to make the 18D at the shoulders; 20D at the bottom of the armscye and grading out to a 24D at the hip. I am an ‘8’ shape - which is a bit like a pear but with a high and full upper hip, which is much the same size as the full hip. My hip starting as high as it does often causes problems. In RTW, skirts and trousers are too tight at this point, even when the waist is loose and the hip fits lower down. I also made the size 20 sleeve.

Trimming PDF sheets

All taped together, thank goodness

There was a comprehensive size chart which helped greatly choosing a size and Helen was on hand to help, too.

What a lot of waste!  I'm seriously considering using a copy shop!

I chose to do an unaltered short version - that is without any alteration for length. I realised this was risky as I’m 5’ 11” and the pattern is designed for 5’ 5”. However, I thought it was better to test without changes - and looking at the finished measurements,  I thought the pattern was long enough (and I also felt my original was a little longer than I wanted). I did the grading as mentioned above but did not make any design changes.

I could not use the recommended cutting layout.  Firstly,  my fabric was in sections.  Secondly,  I cut a full back pattern piece and cut everything single layer, which I prefer to do anyway, to make sure everything was in line. This took a little longer.

Creating a full size back piece (onluy piece I needed to do this with)

Laying out single layer

The instructions are very good and I had no problem following them to construct the cardigan.  I used my sewing machine with a narrow zigzag stitch as I didn't want to overlock until I had tested the fit.  I saw this cardigan as a toile. All marks lined up where they should and construction was very straightforward.  The only thing is that the process is pretty advanced by the time it's possible to really test for size. 

Trying for fit - before bottom band or hem bands

Trying for fit - before bottom band or hem bands

Trying for fit - before bottom band or hem bands

I decided that the fit appeared okay even with the larger 24 hip and continued to completion. The last instruction is to topstitch the band using a zigzag stitch. My fabric and foot combination wouldn't cooperate so I used a straight stitch which should be fine as there is no strain there.

 

Completed

I like this cardigan a lot - and more than my previous versions,  I have more cover at the front with no need for full bust adjustment and the sleeves are looser with no need for biceps adjustment.

I've worn this cardigan a lot since I made it. This is a test version of the pattern and I don't know how the pattern will change as a result of tester feedback.

The cardigan inside was unfinished. I didn't use my overlocker as this was a toile. However, it worked out so well that I was wishing I had finished the seam allowances. I thought about it, wondering whether it was worth redoing the seams and finishing the seam edges. I was all set to do it when I had second thoughts. I’ll save this for the next version. There will be a next version.

On wearing,  I found there were things I'd consider changing in a future version, purely for personal preference. I’d alter the length of body (longer) and the sleeves (shorter) and add some waist shaping. I decided to make these variations on the pattern, with a view to making another with the fabric I bought for it in the near future.  

The changes I made to the pattern:

• I lengthened the body by 4.7cms; some feel the current length is good for me so maybe I didn’t need to do this or at least not by quite as much
• I shortened the sleeve by the same; mind you, I did find the longer length kept my hands warmer! I do get very cold hands. On other occasions, I found them a little annoying – not my style, really.
• I widened the biceps area slightly by simply drawing out the seam edge in a curve, matching both sides of the sleeve to allow a tee sleeve to fit under it without VSL. I'm not sure this is really necessary as I've been wearing sleeved tees under the test cardigan without problem but on my previous version, with a matching sleeve underneath this was an issue – but that fabric is bulkier than regular tees.
• I marked the  waist position and added some shaping - about 1.5 cms, matching  back and front.
• In order to have a smooth curve, the hip is slightly narrower than previously.

These are all for personal preference.

All done! Ready to continue on return from my long weekend. Looking forward to it. I had considered entering the Pattern Review Sewing Bee. This time around, for Round 1 (11 – 19 January) the task is to make a knit fabric cardigan (but not knit it) with a ‘living coral’ theme (Living Coral is Pantone’s Colour of the Year). At first, I thought, great, I can do another Blackwood cardigan. The theme needn’t be literal - I’m not keen on the colour coral, but rather can portray memories, feelings and experiences evoked. I considered a blue cardigan (love blue) with some embroidered coral and fish patterns (practice machine embroidery) – then I thought, come on, this isn’t your style! So, I won’t be doing that. In any case, I didn’t have the correct fabric and time is limited since I’m just back home (15 January). I’m looking forward to seeing the ideas that are put forward in the entries; I always realise when I see these that I don’t have a greatly imaginative designer’s mind! That’s fine, though.

Sandpoint Top from GrayDay Patterns

Helena from GrayDay Patterns asked for testers for her Sandpoint Top and I volunteered. There was quite a short turnaround but I didn't think I'd have any problem getting it done. I was pleased to be chosen to test and was allocated View 'A' which is the V neck version. I sewed size XL. The top has a cowl back but Helena was also interested to see if the top could be reversed.

V neckline at front
It's pretty cold and rather windy outside!! 

My last post outlined the problems I had with the floral knit I used for Pattern Review's Winter Street Dress. While I was preparing fabric for this new top, I decided to go ahead and make the top in the floral fabric - I still had loads left. I thought that this would be the best indication to see if I could follow the steps required (I was testing the instructions too, as this pattern is intended for beginner sewers, which of course I am). I decided to sew the pattern in a straight XL with no changes whatsoever as this seemed the best way to test the pattern fit and to see if pieces joined together properly. Another reason I decided to sew a straight XL version is that I have pretty much lost my sewjo and thought this would be an easier way to get it back - none of those interminable fitting issues!

So I downloaded, printed and cut out the test pattern. I had no problems with this and it was nice that I only had to print relevant pages. I managed to tape the pieces together without incident.

There was one front and one back piece cut on the fold, plus 2 x armbands, 1 x shoulder band and 2 x neckband pieces for the V neck. I cut them out without incident - my fabric behaved impeccably at this point; I used a rotary cutter, which I most definitely prefer to shears.

I followed the instructions without problem. Except that my 4 way stretch fabric is so stretchy and has so little body that cutting into the stitching at the V neck wasn't really necessary and I found a hole at the peak of the V  and had to take rectifying measures. However, I managed to finish the V neckline - my first - and I think it looks pretty good (see above and last picture).

Back cowl neck  - I'm standing in a weird way - look at those trouser creases! The shoulder band sits higher up and further forward which causes it to pull a bit, especially on the left shoulder

As the instructions were for small zig zag stitch or lightning stitch, I chose the former and didn't use my serger, which I think would make the insides nicer. After I had some problems with the fabric misbehaving and getting caught in the plate, I changed to a walking foot. Then everything went great. On a side note, this is the first time I have used the walking foot on my new Bernina and it was great - just so much quieter, smoother and easier to fit than the one on the Brother. After one of the sides caught, it grew a little and at that point I would have welcomed some notches, which weren't present in the test pattern - if I hadn't stretched the fabric, I wouldn't have needed them at all. As it was, I managed fine.

I was glad to have both pictures and written instruction for the shoulder band, which fitted without problem, and I trimmed as needed.

Side view of V front and cowl back

Side view of cowl front, V back

V neck at back - see how shoulder strap sits further back. Look at the left shoulder - that's where I feel the pull. 

Cowl at front - V neck at back pictured above.
It looks okay with cowl at front but I don't like the V at the back and don't like the feeling of the fit.

Within the test time, I have had a trip to Gleneagles, a trip to my mother's and then, most recently a two day trip to London to accompany my mother for pre-operative assessment and surgery. Some of you will know that my mother has Age Related Macular Degeneration (AMD) and is registered blind or rather partially sighted, as she would say. She has peripheral vision and can see specks on the ground but can't recognise faces, watch TV, read or cross the road, which require the central macular vision. She was found suitable for intra ocular lens implantation (which as I understand it recruits peripheral vision to do the things normally done by the macula)- and had her first eye (the worse of the two) done yesterday. There are a number of checkups, and she has to use various drops etc over the course of the next few weeks - but here's hoping she regains some vision. So, I accompanied her to London, for two days, and am helping her get used to moving around with even less vision than she had previously (there is hopefully a gradual improvement). She is pretty independent, though, and wants to go home tomorrow. We'll take her back (to Scotland) provided it looks as though she can manage the drops. 

Anyway, all these things cut down my sewing time. I abandoned the idea of doing a second top in 'fashion fabric'.

I left to go to London with the neckband on, the sides seamed together and the shoulder strap attached and trimmed to size after a first fit. I had also pin attached the armbands - and there they stayed until last night. Although I was tired after our journeys, I was too uptight to think about going to bed early and seamed the armbands on. This went fine and as I still had some time, I decided to do the hemming, too. I followed the pattern instructions. I chose to finish with zig zag stitching. I also used zig zag stitching to keep the armband seam allowances flat. I should have done the V neckline too, but didn't at the time - as the seam allowances curl up a bit under the neckline, I may do this later.

I see that I will also need to do some internal trimming of the seam allowance portions beyond the zigzag stitching.

As I didn't make any changes whatsoever to the pattern, I was surprised that the top fitted quite as well as it did. It is a fairly loose top - just not quite so loose on my hips as it should be! Well, I'm pear shaped and unlikely to change from that very greatly. I usually prefer a bit more waist definition but this top is a nice departure for me.

I did try the top on with the cowl at the front - it looks reasonably okay unless you look closely and I think you can see some pulling on the left shoulder. I didn't like it with the cowl at the front - it felt too low and I would be constantly checking to see if my bra was showing. It also felt as if it pulled towards the front at the shoulders. You can see the different position of the shoulder band on the two images.

V at front. Cowl at back. To show silhouette.

Cowl at front. V at back. To show silhouette.

I'm not over keen on the shoulder band though I realise it is necessary. I think I will wear the top, with the cowl at the back. I like it a lot more than I thought I was going to initially.

For the future, I want to finish the insides better and would probably use my (new) overlocker for many of the steps.

 

While I was in London , I had just enough time to pop into McCulloch and Wallis as it was near the hospital. I had never visited before. I had realised that London based sewers had more choice - but I just didn't realise how much more!! Many of the problems and much of the heartache (okay - I exaggerate!) I had with my recent wool jacket would have been solved very quickly with all the notions available in what seemed like an Aladdin's cave to me! The time I spent and the money on fuel - I might have been better paying for a trip to London. Thing is, although many places, including this, do mail order, if you don't know an item exists, you don't search for it and so can't buy it. I'm back in London again with my mother and again to go to my Bernina class so I might have a clear idea of what I want by then. Believe it or not, I didn't buy any fabric. I did get a sample of horsehair and a sample of very fine knit interfacing. Next time!!