Making a Jacket - tissue fitting and first toile

I’m making a jacket as part of my tailoring class but also because I have wanted one for a while - a well fitting one, that is.

Fortunately, it looks like the fit on my jacket will be better than that on my knit tee-shirt!

I had a number of jackets in my consideration list.

I chose a Palmer Pletsch blazer (McCall's 6172) for the jacket for a number of reasons.

• I feel it's less formal than the Vogue Claire Schaeffer jacket, which I love and will come later should this jacket work out well. In the meantime, though, I need to sew something that better suits my lifestyle
• PP has comprehensive fitting guides including lines for FBA etc.
• I bought a Craftsy class on interfacing jackets which uses this jacket, so it went to the top of my queue.
• It's a simpler make than the Vogue.
• It has all the bits I need to practice for my class, which perhaps Vogue jeans jacket might not have done . I will be doing that one too but I think it's slightly too informal for all the techniques I need to practice.

We worked in pairs in class to take our measurements. Rory took these in order to make up a trial block which we'd toile. There isn't time in class to do this. Everyone wants a jacket to fit themselves rather than just learning techniques on a standard size garment. I'm no different. The blocks we'd then create would be used to make up the jacket of our choice.

I'm going to miss next week's class, when I thought we'd start this process.  However, I think we're running behind and next week is actually going to be about lining insertion. ‘Dropping in the lining’.  I'm going to do that in Monday's sewing bee so I don't fall behind. I started making a toile of my jacket so I wouldn't fall behind.

I went along with the PP instructions, on the whole at least.

I chose my size based on high bust measurement. (I was borderline just to choose by full bust size). If between sizes, they instructed to take the smaller size, which I did. This was 40.5” so I went to 40". I used this size, as instructed, to choose the size 18, which is for a full bust 40”. The idea, of course,  is to have a better fit across upper chest and shoulders. My full bust measurement is 42/43, depending who takes it and when! So clearly there will need to be a FBA. I knew that would be the case. But how much of a FBA?

I cut out the tissue for a size 18, including hips, even though my hips are larger. I reinforced and clipped the tissue as advised,  pinned together and tried on (one side only). The instructions say that if you need a FBA, wait until you've done that before sorting hip size. I pinned the tissue from armscye to waist or a bit below and tried on (with help from David of course). I don't have any photos of this process but it's pretty well documented in the pattern instructions and in Fit for Real People.

I found it difficult to judge where my bust and waist points would be so decided to concentrate on the FBA.

First thing I had to do was to ensure I didn't need a broad back adjustment as that would affect what was required in the way of a FBA. I didn't need one. The tissue met at the centre back without strain and was pinned there onto my tee shirt.

I then had to see if the tissue jacket centre front line met my body centre front line. Of course, it didn't, as expected. I then had to measure the distance between tissue and body CF lines. 2.25”. This was the amount of FBA required (total 4.5”). I did this in inches, BTW, as pattern talked about those.

There was a choice of a standard or Y FBA.  I choose the latter as they suggested this if you often had to build up the armscye at the front. All the lines were drawn on the tissue,  so I had no problem doing this. My paper insertion was rather large! 2.25” at the pivot point but much wider lower down. At this point, there is still a side dart, which can be left or closed and rotated into the vertical dart. I choose to close and rotate. This,  of course, meant that the original dart area was enormous. I thought I had got it wrong.

I took the tissue to class and tried on there. Rory felt that I was in the right ballpark but further adjustments would be easier in calico. She marked waist and bust point and roughly pinned out the rather large front dart.

I had also tried on the 2 piece sleeve and felt it was too tight so did a 4cm full biceps adjustment. This involved a slight building up to original of the sleeve cap. I didn't alter length.

This is where I deviated from the PP method as they then advocate moving directly onto the fashion fabric. I had too many things still to work out.

I went early to my tailoring class on Wednesday past and cut out and machine basted the pieces together for half a jacket only - the calico I'd taken turned out not to be big enough for a full jacket. When I say half a jacket, I'm excluding facings,  collar etc of course. I went for the medium length. I don't like the long and while I love the short  length, I feel the style is too young for me - and it doesn't have pockets,  which are part of the course requirements.

Rory fitted me. The front dart was big but will be cut away in the final jacket. I have a forward sloping waist,  but she felt that the waist position at the side of my body was in the right place. She gave me the choice of keeping the shoulder width or narrowing slightly - I decided to keep. Seeing these photos, taken at home today, not at class, I'm less sure this was the correct decision. What do you think?

You can't quite see the roll line(pencilled in) - because the collar is pinned to make it lie better, the roll is not going all the way down. Do you think the shoulder is too wide?

She repinned the back seams.

She then said I could miss out one of the seams at the side but there would then be less waist suppression possible there. I don't want too boxy so opted to retain it.

I thought you'd be able to see where the armhole needs dropped as the current is far too high but it's not showing up here.
More pinning out.

In addition, she pinned out a wedge across the collar towards the side to encourage the collar to lie properly.  PP do this at tissue stage.

You can see the pencilled in roll line here - I need to true this

I need to transfer these changes to the pattern tissue then I think I'll make up in a cheaper fabric first to check further on fit details.

I quite fancy the jacket in boiled wool - I bought some in Leeds at Sew Up North

As a postscript, I'm thinking this could be my early bird make for SWAP 2017. Add some navy...

Sew Up North in Leeds on 5th November 2016

Becca and Jenny organised the Sew North Meet-up in Leeds,  which took place today. I'm on the train home as I write this. I'll try to sort some photos tomorrow in the daylight. I didn't take any at the event itself, sadly.

To be honest, I wasn't sure about attending as I am clearly the oldest who does. I don't mind that too much as I was always the oldest or thereabouts attending my earlier sewing classes. I just hope I don't make other people feel uncomfortable. I had a few people asking if I was going so I decided I would. I particularly wanted to meet again the ladies I met at the Yorkshire Spoolettes meeting in Dewsbury in February - Margaret,  Karen, Ali, Hila, Corrine.

The train trip to Leeds is just under 1½ hours. I left home at 7.45am. Nice and relaxing. I went on an earlier train than I originally planned just in case it was late. I prefer to be early than late. No problem,  though. We met from 10am in Costa on Briggate. I'm not sure how many we were in the end, I think 48 had signed up for part of the day at least. I met Becca and Jenny and handed in the sewing book (Nancy Zieman's Confident Sewing Collection) I was donating to the raffle - a lovely book, well 3 books in one, which I'm sure the winner will enjoy. I have another copy at home.

The first people I saw in a sea of strangers were Ali and Margaret. I ordered something to eat and a coffee as I wasn't sure when I'd get a chance next and it was already a while from breakfast. Then Karen arrived and we had a chat. She also commented on the fit of the tee shirt  I made (from a photo - I didn't wear it). We agreed that fabric makes a huge difference. Then Hila arrived and came over for a chat, congratulating me on getting to round 2 of the PR Sewing Bee. She's becoming quite famous! Jenny and Becca had a goody bag including fabric discounts for the day.

Clearly that number of women couldn't go around Leeds in a group,  particularly on a Saturday!  And particularly when this was a special weekend in Leeds with the unveiling if the ‘World's Largest Kissing Tree’ I started in a group with Margaret, Karen and Hila and we expanded and contracted until just Margaret and I finished together. I was Margaret's shadow (sorry,  Margaret - I hope you didn't mind!) as I didn't know my way around.

I was still looking for a suitable fabric for a kimono for Joanne.

We first went to Samuel Taylor. Hila bought a beautiful remnant of a Liberty wool fabric in red, grey and cream. There wouldn't be enough for me and even Hila felt she’ll have some problems because of the need to pattern match. She's incredibly productive so I'm sure we'll be seeing what she makes before too long! First she is doing the PR contest (One Pattern, Many Looks) ...and she's going with the make a red dress for Christmas. I didn't buy anything but went back later, on the way to the station, as I'd forgotten to get a yellow jeans or trouser zip. They didn't have that colour, sadly. They had run out of the quilting materials Margaret wanted.

From there,  we went to Kirkgate Market. Jack's Fabrics, B&M Fabrics stall (with discount), haberdashery stall and a stall selling African waxed fabric. Lots of lovely fabrics but I didn't buy anything! I was tempted on a couple of occasions but the fabrics weren't quite right. The patterns on the waxed fabric were great but I feared the fabric was too stiff. Others we were with bought plenty!

We then went to B&M’s shop. Again with a discount. I bought boiled wool in two shades,  navy and raspberry. I see the raspberry as a jacket very soon but the fabric is quite fine so I need to check that it's suitable.

I think the colour is showing not too badly. Our weather is atrocious today so not much daylight! Plenty of rain.The navy fabric is slightly finer and smoother - I haven't photographed that here.

I like the medium length version B - my colour is pretty similar!
I've started to fit it in calico and will be posting about it in a couple of weeks.

McCall's 6172 Version B

I bought thread for these plus yellow for the yellow fabric. No suitable zip. Margaret bought the end of the roll of teal boiled wool (gorgeous) and 2 metres of the navy I bought. She's thinking of a fairly full and drapey skirt. Margaret has been making lots of gorgeous quilts and other crafts (check them out) but is planning to get back to some garment sewing. Another very skilled and productive sewer!

We decided against going to the new John Lewis which has a small haberdashery - I have one at home so no point,  really.

We then went to Peter Aldous, a rather nice craft shop, which Margaret hadn't previously visited so was keen to see. She bought a clutch pencil. The we decided to have something to eat before meeting the others at Fabrication Crafts in The Light - it is a Social Enterprise supporting micro craft and fashion businesses also teaching crafts skills in house and in the community. They provide ad hoc work space, and have recently set up the Leeds Fashion and Craft Network to increase this support. It's not a funded organisation.

At Fabrication, we had tea/coffee, chocolate cake, bought raffle tickets and swapped fabric and patterns (though there was loads left at the end)

I was incredibly lucky! I got some beautiful Linton tweed Karen had put in as it didn't suit her warm colouring. I'm cool and found it perfect!

I also got a black lightweight fabric with a blue flower which I think will work well for Joanne's kimono (David thinks the black floral silk is better, though).

I'm not too sure whether the background is black or dark navy

I put in a lot of patterns and a couple of books but no fabric on this occasion. I don't know if any of my patterns were popular. Certainly some of the magazine freebies were duplicated. I got a dress pattern and a unisex adult/child gilet pattern (next term we are making a padded gilet. I don't fancy it for me as I don't need to add padding! I might make for my grandsons).

I was even luckier in the raffle! I won a pair of tickets to the Knitting and Stitching Show in Harrogate and 2 metres of fabric of my choice from Girl Charlee.  I indicated I was going to decline this but was asked for my email address, so I accepted it. It's just as well really as Margaret won the next prize, the star prize,  a £100 fabric bundle from Minerva Fabrics. Gorgeous fabrics. ready to take her back to dressmaking. If I had declined, she wouldn’t have got that! The raffle raised over £200 for the Yorkshire Air Ambulance.

Margaret is keen to take a Chanel jacket class and I offered to go with her. I'd enjoy that. I'm not sure when it will be. I have the fabric, though!

I asked Ali about her new combined coverstitch machine, which she loves . Sounds fabulous!  She showed us the fantastic stretchy hems on her top,  which she had finished just last night. Gorgeous fabric too. Hila reckoned such would be an investment for her, too,  as she hopes to sew to a hundred,  like Lillian Weber, the amazing woman who sewed well over 1000 dresses to donate to Dresses for Africa. “Dresses for Africa is an organization which not only clothes little girls in Africa (boys too) , they do lots of other projects there, like building wells and community centers to improve lives of people in villages in Africa.” As I mentioned earlier, Hila is very productive! She was one of the bloggers on the blog tour for the Pattern Review Lillian dress.  I could sew every day from now until I'm 100 and probably not use up all my fabric! I hope I'm exaggerating!  I have clear plans for today's fabric. No plans for a coverstitch machine, though.

I was pleased to hear that Ali is planning a further Yorkshire Spoolettes trip to Dewsbury. I'd better get sewing!

We looked around the shop and those closer to Leeds enquired about their classes etc. The shop has some beautiful craft and designer items, selling work by over 40 local artists and designers - beautiful gifts. The staff were wonderful hosts today and kept the tea, coffee and cake coming!  We put in a donation for this. Fortunately, I'm not fond of chocolate cake so wasn't tempted beyond a mouthful.

Luckily, I had an open train ticket so could travel home when I wanted rather than having to wait until the time of the train I had booked a seat on. We finished earlier than I originally thought we would. I really didn't feel like Christmas shopping, despite Leeds looking great and clearly being a great shopping area, so just made my way to the station.

I had a nice day and am glad I went. It's nice, too, to be getting home at a reasonable time. We hadn't made arrangements to go to any fireworks displays, but we could do now (though probably won't!). (I watched Strictly but fell asleep! Getting older!)