Style 1961 for daughter, using mother's fabric.

When I went to London last month,  I took a toile of Style 1961 for Helen to try on. It was a little snug around the upper thigh area and I modified that on my pattern (I traced it!). A sign of her getting older is that she wanted the finished length to be as it was, unhemmed - so I added a further 4 cms to the length. It's also an indication of how long ago I promised her this skirt, though, too! I don't have a photo of the pattern envelope - I gave it to Helen to take away should she wish to make another for herself, not that she's started sewing. It's an old pattern from the 80s I think, of pencil skirts with vents in two lenghts, with and without separate waistbands. I have another very similar from the same era. I went to a 'night class' hoping I'd learn how to sew but it didn't work out that way.

Finished skirt

The fabric for the skirt is wool, tweed, checked. My mother cut out a long straight skirt from the fabric but didn't continue. As you may know, my mother is registered blind and has been for the last 9 years - so this must have been cut out around 10 years ago, I think. Unfortunately, she hadn't thought about pattern matching and I had only the pieces she had cut out. (psst - don't tell Helen, but she didn't use a nap layout and should have done so!). I didn't have any selvedges but the checks were longer lengthwise than widthwise. The pattern pieces were still pinned to the fabric. I washed the wool to pre-treat and shrink. I'm not sure if that's the best way to pre-treat wool but thought that perhaps Helen was more likely to wash than dry clean so that's the route I took.

Anyway, I went ahead and cut out my modified pattern,  The front fitted onto the fabric relatively easily and I was able to get a suitable stripe in the centre. The skirt I was making was much shorter, so I had some length to play with. I cut the front out on a single layer, which made it much easier to match the pattern.

The back was a different story, though. There was exactly the right width available for the body of the skirt but no spare fabric for the vent extensions. I was not able to accurately match the lines in the back, the vertical lines, but did my best with the horizontal lines.

I forgot to get a close up of the vent and of the lapped zipper

I decided to use the lapped zip recommended by the pattern. While making the toile, I had some problems with this but managed an acceptable zip at the end of the process. I started using the pattern's method again. Unfortunately, I kept getting into trouble - that zip was in and out several times. I considered doing an invisible zip but decided against that. Before I inserted the zip, I finished the edges and interfaced the zipper seam allowance.

In the end, I used the method from Reader's Digest and this went ahead without a hitch. I will be using this method from now on for a lapped zip. The two important factors are 1) the seam is tacked closed and 2) the zip stays closed at all times.  This should have meant that my stripes stayed where they were supposed to but unfortunately that wasn't the case. I did use a dual feed foot where I could to help, but couldn't with the zipper insertion. I also have double ended pins which are helpful in matching stripes.

I had problems with the waistband. Although there was a waistband with the fabric pieces, this wasn't suitable and I didn't have a piece of fabric large enough - eventually, I pieced 3 pieces of fabric together and used preformed waistband interfacing.

I had intended to line the skirt but with all the problems and wanting to get on to the next thing in my long list, I decided not to. H can make herself an old fashioned under slip to wear with the skirt if she wants. I will also give her the modified pattern and she can have a go at one that starts with the right amount of fabric in the right places!!

Because I wasn't lining the skirt, I went ahead and joined the waistband to the skirt and stitched-in-the-ditch from the front to hold it in place.

I then decide to use a hook and eye closure instead of buttonhole and button.

I asked PR readers advice about my extension-less vents. I got some helpful replies. However, I had said in my post that I would be lining so some of the posts highlighted that area. In the end, I decided to go with my original thought of sewing an extra piece of fabric on each side where the extensions should be. This was tricky with pattern matching and also because the fabric is a little too thick for this treatment. However, needs must!

I decided to keep the fold at the right side of the vent as I thought that would look better than seeing the seam. I slip-stitched down the length of the fold to keep it in pace. The left side was folded back so I made sure the seam was a few mm in from the edge.

I then hemmed the skirt. I chose to overlock the edge,  turn up by 4 cm and handstitch the hem in place so that it's not visible from the outside.

This should have been an easier task than I made it appear! The lack of fabric width was certainly a hindrance. I had to cut out my pieces the way I did - even if the back is upside down compared to the front! I wanted to practice lapped zipper, waistband and vents. I also wanted to use up the fabric my mother had given me. So, all in all, success.

The end result is acceptable, I believe. Certainly not couture (and I hope she doesn't think this is a good example of any of the techniques!) but should do Helen a turn or two. With tights and boots it should be cosy for the winter, which is, alas, too close!

I wrote the above when Helen was due to be visiting  two weeks later and decided to keep the post until she cam and I could try the skirt and modify if necessary and of course take photos.

Helen and her fiancé were here from the early hours of Friday morning until after lunch today.

On Friday, Helen to tried on the skirt. We found that the extra added to the toile when I was visiting London was probably mainly unnecessary. I had to take in a part of the side seam on each side - H's hips are longer and smoother rather than having a definitive bulge. Anyway, she liked the skirt and plans to wear it to work tomorrow. She read the part of the blog I had already written and approved it and said she'd send a winter photo of her wearing boots and tights.

On Friday afternoon, I was able to visit my pattern cutting tutor with Helen to get advice on the fit of her dress toile and how to modify that and my little dressmaking model (Missy). I'm pleased to say that was pretty successful - we finalised our wedding dress ideas, taking my tutor's input very much into account - no further details on my blog, though!

A was able to try on his second waistcoat toile. Interestingly, I had modified the first toile by pinning at the time and then making the changes to the pattern and the existing toile, but also produced a second 'cleaner' toile. These were very different in fit, with the second being much superior. I hadn't copied the changes over directly as DH pointed out that A, a sportsman, was fairly strong and more developed around the shoulders, so I took a tuck in the gaping front rather than raise the shoulders. The length was much better, though I will have to modify the position of the tabs on the back. A thinks it is still a little too loose (I took in a lot) - while I don't agree, I think that is a personal choice and I will make some further modifications. I noticed, too , that the right side seam was not completely vertical so I will work on that, too.

On Saturday, yesterday, we were holding the 3rd annual family golf match around Invitation Weekend at our club. I play with my daughter's fiancé, A,  while DH plays with our SIL. This year, DH decided to up the ante by having a trophy made!  Unfortunately, A had his golf clubs and bag, containing golf shoes and other accessories , stolen on Friday, discovered when he went to get them from their supposedly secure storage. He and H nearly missed their late night train as locks had to get changed, insurance company contacted etc. A managed to buy new shoes etc on Saturday morning and DH loaned him some golf clubs, by splitting his set with him.

Yesterday was a beautiful late summer/early autumn day with temperatures as high as 19 deg C - warm for us but maybe not for our southern living family! I golfed in crops and golf shirt until close on 6pm when I had to put on my jumper. A managed the round without developing any blisters - a positive with brand new shoes. A and I managed to win the match, though our scores were poor in comparison to the other scores entered. My SIL and A are both very competitive and are already planning more practice before next year's round now that a trophy is involved!

Today my oldest daughter Alison tried on her dress toile and I made a few minor modifications. I'm pleased to say that the bust area fitted pretty well. However, I think she'd suit a princess seamed bodice better and I plan to modify the toile further. She takes a 32FF bra and as a result, the side bust dart is rather large, which might not look so good in some of the bridal fabrics.

Helen and Alison added a couple of tweaks to the drawings for the bridesmaids' dresses, approved by A, and I'm pleased that I now have a clear way forward. DH took some photos of Helen in the skirt and some photos against a measuring stick for reference later.

I've just started back at my sewing classes and I'm excited about the next stages of these projects.

The fate of Simplicity 1418 and toiles of other types. And welcome a new sewer

From last Thursday until Sunday,  I was visiting my daughter Helen - mother/daughter wedding dress trying and fabric shop trawling. Her fiance A was away on a stag weekend; my husband was at home. I travelled by train which is easier than driving. Though I took a sewing machine for Helen which made it rather more awkward. What's not easy is travelling around London on underground and bus - crowded and hot. I was exhausted!

Before he left,  A tried on the toile of the waistcoat I'm making for him. H had sent me his measurements but had clearly,  I thought,  made a mistake in the back measurement as the measure was so short.  She made a mistake in her and A's shoulder measurements and I had to guess. The toile was actually a pretty good fit;  I had used the standard burda size 40 pattern. A's shoulders are wider and the shoulder line will need to come out. H had got his back length wrong; A requested a 1.5 cms longer length. We also took the waistcoat toile in at the side seams. I thought there was gaping at the front armhole;  this was removed by pulling the shoulder up so I hope that is the fix! Nothing too major.

H was unable to get Simplicity 1418 on - or at least she got it on, though not pulled down properly over her bust  and the zip was a long way from closing. My feeling is that this pattern runs smaller than the other Simplicity patterns I've made. H reckons the dress would fit one of her friends so hopefully it will get some use.

However,  I had a couple of toiles with me for her,  too.

The first was a dress (bodice plus skirt)  made from my Sure Fit Designs kit, using the updated sizes she finally got around  to sending me. I was surprised to see that she quoted her upper bust as 3cms larger than her full bust and realised that her shoulder width couldn't be correct. I had made up a more basic pattern from the dress I made previously and saw that she didn't have the mammoth shoulders she quoted. When I drew up the SFD pattern,  I compromised and put her shoulder width half way between what she said and the standard.  Even so,  this was wide and the armhole surprisingly small.  However,  I went ahead and made it up.

When H tried it,  it didn't look too bad.  The shoulders were certainly way too wide and the armhole significantly too small.  I drew on a better armhole shape and clipped and that was much better. Other than that, it was pretty good. H requested less ease at the waist and for the waist seam to be lowered 1.5cms. I slightly adjusted the bust dart.  Overall, it looks pretty good. When I get home,  I'll change the pattern and make a new toile. I will also try to adjust my small model to her sizes so that I can use that.

The other toile I made was from an old Style pattern 1961. A short pencil skirt with a vent. I made a straight side 12, this was before I got her sizes though,  and when I made it up,  complete with zip and waistband,  it looked very tiny and I thought there was no way it would fit her. Especially after I got her new sizes and thought I'd have been better sewing the 14 skirt.  However, she tried it on and loved it. I think it's a little too tight across the upper thigh but H is resisting it being made larger. I took out the side seams

I took a sewing machine down for H as she is keen to start sewing. I gave her a few basic pointers,  let her go through the basics of threading,  winding spools etc. , do some practice sewing and read the instruction book (as I won't always be there) and got her to sew the seams on the skirt toile. She did some overcasting, made a buttonhole, looked at standard and invisible zip insertion,  though we didn't go ahead to do this and looked at the various stitches and the different feet. She seems to be picking it up quickly. She's loving it.

Pie Crust Promises and Plans

Well, I reached the end of 2014 with many semi-promised makes unmade. I won't go into these in detail - but there were way too many. DH feels I need to focus on making things for myself, though he's not averse to the jacket I'm planning to make him using the lovely thick Burberry wool I bought when we were in Harrogate. I need to find a suitable pattern as I'm not up to drafting one for myself, though maybe I’ll have to as I haven't found a suitable gents' patterns on my searching (and of course DH has to approve, possibly the most difficult part!). There don’t seem to be many around. Anyone any ideas? I took a photo on my phone of a jacket that was fairly near the idea but it is so out of focus that I can't use it.

The other promises, those that I intend to honour, are New look 6048, a Project Runway summer dress with fairly full skirt, for DD2:

  

 

 

a tweed mini skirt for DD3 using a basic McCall’s 3830

 

 

or Style pattern (1961 or 1987 - both pretty old patterns and not on any database I found) and possibly a further, modified, New Look 6047 blouse for DD1.

 

 

I'm afraid my daughter was ill when she took this photo.

 

  

DD1 likes the blouse as she likes simple cuts. She finds it a touch low, by the sound of it, but said that she could fit a camisole underneath, so it sounds as if there is too much ease. I had done a FBA so perhaps I need to keep this but make a smaller size. She would also like it a little longer.  Our plans to visit after Christmas have also fallen through because of illness so I haven't seen the blouse on my daughter as yet and she hasn't been up to taking any different views.

 

I re-start my sewing and pattern cutting classes in mid January and have one more sewing bee next week. In the college sewing class, we're going to be looking at trouser skills and then make a pair of trousers, to fit. Making a well-fitting pair of trousers is something I have aimed towards. I started fitting using the Sure Fit Designs system even before I started on my current path. I made some pretty acceptable but not perfect muslins but I was actively losing weight at the time and as a result, the fit was off every time I tried it. I'm afraid I've put most of that weight back on - but not for long. I do plan to get rid of it again. In a previous class I attended, I started to make a pair of pants from a Palmer Pletsch pattern McCall's 6901, but the summer break then life events stopped me continuing - and the fit was horrendous, even after tissue fitting, so I've had no desire to pick it up again, but pick it up I will do and  either finish or jettison in the next few weeks.  I also need to finish the skirt I started making using the same McCall's 3830 pattern I'm considering for my daughter's skirt, above. Until I finish these two and finish the alterations and repairs for DD3, I'm best not to start anything else. However, I do plan to better document both my stash and my makes.

 

McCall's 6901. This looks slim fit - mine were most definitely not!!

 

My youngest daughter has long wanted a mini skirt made from our family tartan. This is not a tartan in current production (I don’t know if it ever was - certainly not in the years we tried to find it) but a few years ago my husband sourced a 'pattern' for the two tartan variants, the dress (rusty orange red) and the hunting (moss green) and a mill in the borders of Scotland willing to weave it. It cost a pretty penny as there was a minimum quantity required and each yard was pricey anyway. DH ordered the minimum quantity of double width heavy weight hunting tartan. When it was on the loom, he was called to see it and took a bottle of malt (whisky - Dalwhinnie in this case) with him to toast the tartan with the weavers. He got a kilt made from some of the tartan (there's 8 yards of tartan in a kilt) but there's a fair bit left over.

 

You can just see the kilt (hunting tartan) in this photo,
though the tartan itself is clearer - there's some double imaging here. I wish I had a better view.
The ghillie shirt was one of my first ever makes last year. I entered it in a Pattern Review competition for men's wear. It has never been worn since! Now that I have a modern sewing machine, I could have completed the neckline closure, which I couldn't do at the time. And the fabric would be more suitable next time around.

The tartan is really a bit heavy for a skirt for my daughter - and I have quite liked the idea of a long straightish skirt perhaps in tartan but more likely a complementary colour. Women aren't supposed to wear tartan and a tartan skirt alongside the kilt would be too much in any case. So we need to get more tartan woven in a lighter weight.  I'm not sure whether we'll choose the hunting or the dress. We haven't checked to see whether the mill is still in business but need to do so soon. It’s not really worth ordering just for a mini skirt, though, but perhaps we need to do it anyway.

I have been looking in the after Christmas sales and have bought nothing. Not a stitch of clothing. I nearly bought a pair of bargain Jaeger trousers but they were a little large in the waist, so I decided not to - I’m at my maximum weight at the moment. There was also a lovely brown leather jacket which was almost perfect - but the shoulders were a little wide for me.  The smaller size didn't accommodate my hips. I tried on and rejected quite a few other items.

This led me to realise

1.   It's not a bargain if it doesn't fit well, so I end up not wearing it

2.   Cost should not be the prime motivation in purchasing

3.   I need to consider colour more carefully

4.   I need to be sure that any new garment would fit into my wardrobe (literally as well as metaphorically!)

5.   Any garment needs also to fit into my lifestyle.

6.   I'm becoming much fussier, thinking 'I could do better than this' or asking why I should buy something imperfect to alter or tolerate

7.   I have too many clothes already.

8.   Like many, a small percentage of my clothes are worn repeatedly.

9.   I need to discard clothes before I can have more - there is literally no room for more!

Oh, and I have nothing to wear!

Decisions

1.   I am going to spend on average 1 hour per day for the next month going through and culling my clothes. I am going to be ruthless.

2.   I am going to follow a plan - not sure which one yet - to identify a series of outfits I can wear with the clothes I have. I'm reading some blogs for ideas and already have a number of books including Colour Me Beautiful (I was considered a summer years ago but sometimes wonder if I've moved more to winter with my silver grey hair. I might try to get retested)

3.   I am going to identify any gaps in my wardrobe and construct a reasonable plan and timetable to fill those gaps.

4.   I'm going to bite the bullet in more ways than one and I'm going to sign up for the RTW Fast. Am I mad? I'm so slow. I'm not very proficient. Etc.  However,  I have lots of clothes so I shouldn't often be in the position of having a serious deadline (although I have always responded quite well to deadlines!). And it's not as if I can just go out and buy clothes anyway. My skills would hopefully improve dramatically over the course of the next year. I'm assuming of course that I can wear the RTW I have, can modify that which I already have to fit and can continue to purchase footwear, lingerie esp bras and jewellery. I'll check out the rules, though.

5.   I have downloaded an app to help me with the wardrobe planning

6.   Tidy and rearrange ‘sewing room’ aka dining room. A lot of my stuff was moved out for Christmas to allow full use of the dining room. Today we started to rearrange the room with a view to making the layout more sensible and I started to cull my books and magazines. There's already quite a difference. Tomorrow we'll start to move my sewing stuff back in but we plan to keep the big boxes of stash fabric elsewhere (though not sure where that is!) and I might get to start to sew early in the New Year.