College classes, toiles and sloping waistline

I've been thinking hard what to do in next term's classes, that is between today and July. 10 evenings 2 hours each at pattern cutting,  same at dressmaking techniques and 11 weeks at my daytime class with guided learning which is 4 hours;  unfortunately I do have to miss a few of those because of golf and other commitments.

Although I have enrolled in the college courses for next term,  there is a massive shakeup because of funding and the need to accredit courses. I've paid 50% more to attend next term and at the moment it's not actually clear it's going ahead and if it does,  on which nights. We students don't feel it's right to alter the course and night ⅔ of the way through the year,  so many haven't signed up. There was only one pattern cutting class but several dressmaking classes - at beginner, continuation and advanced level. At the moment there is only one all level course;  the tutors have campaigned for more - obviously,  it's their livelihood that's at stake. They have 35 names for a 12 place class! They did assure is that they would work with the students as before. I'm not sure they can actually promise that.

The original plan for pattern cutting classes is drawing up a trouser pattern, cutting and getting a decent fit to create a block (sloper) and then make some design modifications. I'm happy with this plan. I didn't achieve a good fit from the dressmaking class on jeans but I did spend the majority of the classes available making jeans for DH as I wanted to practice the techniques taught before I forgot them. so I only had a little time on mine. I'm absolutely determined to have a pair of well fitting trousers for me by term end.

This term the evening dressmaking class was meant to be working on your own project. I'm undecided whether to make a dress or continue with last term's ill fated trousers. The dress,  I think. However, as this will now be module 1 of a BTEC, plans may change. I don't have any desire to do a qualification but I do like a more structured teaching approach, so I'll wait and see. There isn't another course near me. My Thursday class is great and I think the tutor is fantastic but at the end of the day it's not a structured class.

I'm assuming it's still a bit early to be making mother of the bride test garments for my youngest daughter's wedding next year but I have a couple of items in mind - though please make further suggestions! At the moment,  I'm thinking possibly a dress with a lace top layer or cardigan type item or jacket?  

I like the lace top but am not keen on the dress though a bias dress can be very flattering I'm told

It can still be pretty cold in June here though it's also possible for it to be very warm so I'm looking for layered items, I think.  I'm planning to lose quite a bit of weight!  3 stones, I think (52 pounds; 18 kg) I need to anyway as I've put back on everything I lost last year - I lost 2 stones. Shame on me. I'm not fit and my joints are suffering.

During my Thursday class,  I intend to make a blouse - one that fits of course but using the best techniques I can.  I discussed this with Lyn last term and a blouse  was her suggestion. Today was the first session of the new term. I've chosen to repeat the blouse I made for DD1, in the same view, view A, after looking at other patterns I also considered. For me this time. 

 

Final blouse for DD1

Hers was cut in a size 14 with an FBA. After discussion with Lyn, and measurements, I decided to go with the size 20. I did cut into the pattern for DD1 but only a couple of pieces are affected and I fixed them today. The different sizes are fortunately spread across three separate sheets. I've lowered the bust apex by cutting and inserting a 2" strip between the armhole and apex, and of course also lengthened on the back. I also added a touch to the hip area, by grading between my size and the size up, which was on a separate sheet. I haven't altered the waist dart position - I'll wait to see what it looks like. Also, I may need an FBA as I take a D cup, though by their calculations I shouldn't need one. I'm narrow at the bottom of my back and carry more in front - we did discuss whether to do a larger size for the front and smaller for the back..  I felt the neckline was a little low for DD1 but I'll see what it looks like in the muslin. I'll cut that out and sew it up for next week. For the actual blouse I will use a fairly lightweight cotton, possibly some Liberty fabric I have though the blouse might be better in a plain fabric.

As if to bely what I said about this not being a structured class, the theme of this term is pockets and we have some homework to do for next week.

I've been working on my personalised bodice, using SFD. I drew up and cut out the pattern without too much difficulty, though I was concerned about bust dart placement. I started by using a material which was very difficult to use;  I had bought it cheaply to use for toiles. It slipped so much and was so difficult to sew that I gave up on it. I then cut out in some polycotton which worked better. However,  there was something far wrong with my front bodice side seams, related I think to the bust dart not being correct. I hoped that R could comment. I had a toile sewn by Sunday when I had a sewing bee with R, my pattern cutting tutor. She tested the fit on me and pinned some adjustments. These were - she lowered the neckline, slightly adjusted the slope of one shoulder, narrowed shoulder significantly by taking in at shoulder and also widening neck, took in at the upper side seam (I had enlarged here because of my large biceps)  but lowered the armhole to give additional room, significantly increased the back darts and shortened pattern torso length. She noted that the toile was too tight below the waistline but it was supposed to stop at waistline and I had to lose quite a bit of fabric length.

I have a significantly forward tilting pelvis or forward sloping waistline which means that my front bodice length is a lot longer than my back bodice length. R and I had a discussion about this, which I find more significant in a skirt (or trousers),  where I have to shorten front length and lengthen back. However,  such a sloping waistband doesn't look good (DH commented adversely when I tried on). The conclusion of our discussion was that I needed to compromise and bring up the front waistband, to make the waistband sit more level. If I can't cope with such a high front waistband, I have the option to remove the same amount all the way around to make a waistline below natural waist - or I could cut off same and create a yoke.

I also had a skirt block with me.  R suggested raising back by 2 cm. Otherwise it was pretty good except that the right side seam didn't lie where it should.   Left and back were fine. R measured the pieces against my skirt block where I had to make separate sides because of asymmetry; this asymmetry accounted for some of the problem but I had used the slippy fabric I originally used for the bodice and that accounted for more. R felt my block from class was valid (though front waistline was very low and after our discussion,  I feel I need to raise it.)

I have a bodice block from my pattern cutting class but when I started to design with it,  R changed the fit rather a lot, so I'm not sure how useful my block is. R agreed.  I also have one from a brief course I attended last summer (before I knew about the college course)  - the 3 blocks I have are all completely different!!  Ideally,  I would sew up all 3 and decide which was best to work from,  I suppose.

On Monday,  I drew up a completely new pattern for skirt and bodice. I made some but not all of the adjustments R had pinned because I realised as I was redrawing the pattern that I may have made an error with the armhole. So I didn't enlarge for large biceps but did drop slightly. I shortened bodice significantly.  With the skirt,  I raised back by 2 cms.

I cut the pieces out of a well behaved piece of fabric, probably upholstery.

When sewing,  I found my dart problem was even worse than before. For some reason I had more problems sewing one side than the other. On the front, there was a very significant bend and I had to force the fabric to join the back.

A very significant gap - this is not the waistline!

 

Dart opened out

 

I sewed the pieces together to make a dress. I found,  however,  that I had to lose the 2 cms extension on the skirt back. I found the waistline higher than I'm used to - R says a higher waistline is slimming so I'll have a go!

I took the dress to D's sewing bee on Tuesday evening and tried it on for her advice as the other students were late. D shortened back bodice length even further as she said there was significant puddling - is this a sway back? Or just a large derriere? She pinned back darts longer and wider. She noted that the side seams were bowed - one side worse than the other. I took the toile apart and showed her what I thought was issue with front dart and she described how to fill this area out. The fill in is almost exactly the shape that she drew on the back pattern piece when drawing a straight side seam. So I'm sure this is the problem.

 

I spent the rest of the evening working out and trying to do the adjustments. As I've added to the front side seams,  this could make the bodice too big but it was tight previously.  I'll just have to sew it up again and try.  I made a rough adjustment to the toile but I'll transfer these to the pattern pieces properly and cut another toile,  perhaps next week. At Thursday class today, I transferred the alterations onto the pattern tissue. I'll make up the new, 3rd, toile, before going to pattern cutting class (if that happens)

New dart and side seam is much wider.

Pin shows original top of back dart - now both longer and wider

So over the next 3 months, I'm going to make 3 garments for me - trousers, dress (?) and blouse. Does that sound reasonable? It's unfortunate that I'm doing them all at the same time but that can't be helped - I don't like using one tutor for another tutor's project. Should I finish one early,  I can decide on another.

Recently I made a cardigan and that was nice because I didn't end up in the seemingly interminable toile making and fitting issues. I might take a break - I want to make some pattern weights and a scissors holder - no issues with fit there!  Just cut and sew.

I'll update later.

Currently I'm reading through a great sewing book and recommend it

Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers by Julie Cole and Sharon Czachor. 2nd edition. Published by Bloomsbury.

This isn't a full book review as I've only dipped into the book so far.  However, so far, I think it's great.

I saw it recommended on the Coletterie blog and DH bought it for my Christmas.  I haven't had much time to look at it until now,  more's the pity.  It could have saved a few headaches.

The title makes it clear what the premise of the book is. Designers need to know how to pattern draft and how to construct the garments they design. The three arms are necessary.

I'm not interested in garment designing but I am interested in drafting a pattern from an appropriate block,  to fit me.

I'm not at my usual things today and have missed my golf and bridge sessions as I'm not well. However, I am well enough to sit and read and blog.  Very gentle. So that gave me the chance to look at this book.

The book covers how the pattern needs to be changed to accommodate a particular design feature.

Firstly,  I checked the section on closures. I had problems with my last buttonhole (on jeans) and also with the closure on my first jacket,  where the pattern asked for fabric loops and buttons,  but these just weren't going to work. Last term our pattern cutting class covered button plackets but I still wasn't really sure of the process. This book has a very clear style and helpful illustrations. I'm sure I could go ahead and follow this process now. 

For regular machine sewn buttonholes, they suggest the width and suggest using fray check first,  before cutting the middle of the hole with a buttonhole chisel. Embroidery scissors are then used to cut off any stray thread and to finish opening the hole.

More recently, I had problems with inserting a fly-front zip closure into the jeans I made for DH. I was using a self drafted pattern and following some of the techniques I learned in my trouser techniques class, where we used the fly-front zipper with separate extension.  Unfortunately,  the tutor who drafted the pattern had missed out a seam allowance - but said the technique would work anyway. (It appeared to work on my test garment but not on the real thing - I since gather another step was described but it wasn't in our notes or diagrams and I missed it) I didn't fully understand the significance of it and didn't include it in my pattern;  I wasn't even sure where the seam allowance should have been.  This meant I had to fudge my finish to conceal the zip as it was lying too close to the edge of the fabric. The extra ½" allows the zip to sit slightly further back and it is more easily concealed. How I wish I had read the section on fly-front closures in this book!  The techniques were well described and well illustrated, for both the fly-front facing cut in one piece and the fly-front zipper with separate extension.

I can't reproduce any pictures from the book as I assume they are copyrighted material. However,  although I haven't read much of it so far, I already consider it good value. It was an expensive purchase but worth it. There is a workbook which goes with it but I feel that it's too expensive to justify - unless I win the lottery. 

Moral - check and double check, then check again!! Pattern drafting new term

Monday was the first class in the new term of pattern drafting - and we were doing a skirt. A skirt is the easiest thing to draft, so this term is skirt and then the sleeve for the bodice drafted last term.

This time, we weren't draping, but rather using measurements to draw up the block. My tutor wasn't using the Winifred Aldrich figures as she doesn't like them, but I'm sorry to say I didn't pick up whose we were using.

We had to take our waist and hip measurements plus hip depth (though that wasn't essential, apparently)  and work from there.

We first drew a horizontal line the width of the hips plus 1cm total for ease. That's not a lot of ease but ease is essential if we're going to be able to try this on. as little as is feasible to make a proper block.

Then, we divided front and back skirt - this was not an equal division as the side-seam-to-be was 1cm forward of the midline. Presumably, this is because most women are wider in the back skirt than the front. I certainly am, though my tummy is trying to get some words in!

We had to follow instructions given on a sheet. Some of the measurements e.g. hip depth (mine matched exactly), dart length, etc were standard measurements. This was a little worrying for me as I am far from standard! A few sizes bigger, a few inches taller - well, it's between friends isn't it?

So, I finished drawing my block, the next step being to transfer this onto  another piece of pattern paper so that we could add 1cm seam allowances and make up to test the fit.

I thought my darts looked rather bigger than the diagram we were given - though granted it was only a diagram. However, I surmised that I could measure the space between each dart to work out how much fabric would be available to go around my waist. You can, of course!

Out of focus photo of block in instructions. Too late to change. Too ill.

I did this and came up 10cms short!

My measuring co-conspirator checked all my measurements and calculations and agreed that I hadn't made a mistake. However, her darts looked like the diagram's darts.

We were near the end of the class by this time and my tutor suggested that as fit needed to be checked on the body, anyway, I just draw everything out as it was onto a new piece of pattern paper, separating out the front and the back. I started to do that, managing only one before the end of class. I'm sure we would have worked out the problem had we had a little longer. Maybe not though!

At home, I bemoaned the problem to my DH. I'm not sure what he said, but whatever it was suddenly made me see the light!!

I was 10 cm short.

My darts, other than the side waist shaping, which was standard, added up to 20cm.

I had accidentally doubled the size of each dart! How had I done that?  I had clearly misread a section - now that I know what it should have said, I can't understand how I could read it wrongly. I realise that the sentence for the front is spelled out fully, but not so the back (I obviously didn't read that properly, either!)

The sentence is:
Subtract a 1/4 of the waist measurement + 0.6cm tolerance from points 4 from 10
Example given
I.e. 4 from 10                                     = 22.8cm
1/4 of waist + 0.6 cm tolerance     =16.8cm
Difference                                          = 6.0 cm

Place a 1/2 of the difference either side of 13 and 14. (3cm)

My darts were substantially the same size as the examples, so I put 3cm on each side of each of dart tops 13 and 14. Wrong!! Of course, what I should have done was half the 6 cms to make 3cm (as in fact is given in the example) and put 1.5cm at each side of the dart ends. It seems obvious now!

If I take into account the extra 4cm that I created in the darts on the front, the whole 10cm is accounted for.

I have a stinking cold and my photos are quick snaps on my Smartphone - but why? oh why? can't I see them? They're there on the phone gallery but not on blogger. Grrr. I'm ready to post this brief blog but can't with no photos. The only photo that shows, even though I took more, is blurred. Well, I'll save as a draft and go to bed with a hot toddy - everything might look better in the morning!

Darts nearest are wrong, darts behind - I have marked in narrower darts and rubbed out outer markings

I have modified the basic drawing. See the difference between that and the original? Equals one far too tight skirt if I hadn't modified!

Can you see the difference?

Moral - check and double check, then check again!!

 

Last Day of Term in Pattern Making Class

Last Monday was the last pattern drafting class for nearly two months.

The class starred with the tutor demonstrating TR pattern making. TR stands for Transformational Reconstruction - I had to look that up as the tutor couldn't remember. The modern exponent of this method is Shingo Sato who works in Tokyo and Milan. However, the basis is removing darts by incorporating them into design lines and that is not a new technique. I follow a fabulous blog, well-suited,  from Studio Faro (http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited) (updated link)  which does 'pattern puzzles',  taking a design and deconstructing,  to make a pattern.  One I particularly enjoyed - and even understood,  though it's beyond me actually trying to construct it as yet, was 'Pattern Puzzle - the Drape Shift Woven'.  Do have a look at the fabulous posts if you don't already know them.

The tutor demonstrated cutting apart the basic bodice and managing to get rid of the darts. Maybe I wasn't listening properly (I found I'd forgotten to take my portfolio containing my work in progress) but I didn't feel I'd grasped the essentials. My background means that I like to see things written down and like to know 'why'.

When I explained and showed to DH, he immediately grasped the concept and said the cuts would have to be through the tips of darts. The tutor hadn't said that but as I watched a couple of YouTube videos featuring Shingo Sato, this was pointed out.

(But see below)

In the class, we had the chance to try it for ourselves or continue with our top design. My usual partner S chose to try and I was able to see how she got on. She was having major problems. She wasn't cutting through the tips of darts and wasn't getting her fabric to lie flat. The tutor made some cuts to aid the process but this didn't seem to be working as the amounts were too great to ease, so equivalent amounts to the new separation amount (which would be filled in with fabric) were being added or subtracted elsewhere but this clearly changed the shape of some features eg the armhole,  where the lower almost horizontal curve was shortened by quite a bit and that amount added to the top of the almost vertical section. If I did this to a trouser crotch it would be unwearable! The tutor did say she was 'cheating'. Maybe she should also have said 'don't do this at home'? I don't think that S really has a pattern to work with and we have a 7 week break now. Obviously, I could be wrong about this. Overall, though, I was left with an unsatisfied feeling as if the topic hadn't been properly addressed. Sometimes I feel that it is better not to tackle something if it will not be done well perhaps because it is rushed due to lack of time. Maybe that was the case here.

I had somehow forgotten to take my folder which had my blocks and the work I had been doing on my bodice block in it. I was struggling with what to do with the neckline, to get a smooth and neat finish. The tutor suggested I use the standard size 12 blocks and draw out my shape to work on and she would help me work out the next steps.

So I traced the whole bodice front, changed the darts into a princess seam, and separated into front and sides. I made an additional front. I then chose a point and cut off the round neckline at an angle on one of the centre pieces and reversed the other piece and did the same.

I then drew my pleats onto the outer piece of the centre/front

The tutor suggested she thought facings had been used on my inspirational design - I'm not so sure. I want to buy the piece to check this.  Unfortunately, I haven't been successful so far but plan another trip to a different branch of the shop. However,  I do know how to draw facing pieces. The trouble is,  where the front crosses over,  there will be two layers each of fabric and fabric with interfacing. I'm concerned about bulk there.

I feel that I have worked out how to draw the pattern as far as the major pieces are concerned, which was the object of the class,  really.  Construction is not looked at. We don't work on the sleeve block until next term, which is combined with skirt block and design modification.

I bought another book following a mention on Studio Faro, in connection with gap darts. This one looks very good. It is really a textbook. 'Patternmaking for Fashion Design' by Helen Joseph-Armstrong.

There are style examples given,  then one is deconstructed completely and the reader/student taken through the process to make the pattern; however,  others are given as exercises for the student. I haven't been able to do the puzzle of one top in particular I like the look of. I'm hoping the accompanying CD might give me some answers! In the book,  which is the new large international edition, the author describes 3 flat pattern techniques - dart manipulation, adding fullness and contouring - I look forward to exploring it. Obviously,  this is on flat pattern and not on the form/body. She also describes stylelines as falling into 2 classifications - those that cross over the bust and those that do not. Those that cross over the bust replace dart legs with style seams and are dart equivalents as they absorb dart excess within stitchlines. Stylelines which don't cross bust are not dart equivalents. I have a lot of reading and practising to do! I'm looking forward to the challenge.

On the whole,  I think the pattern drafting class has been worthwhile as a basic introduction to the subject. After the full year,  however, there is no continuation to a more advanced level.  I'll have to use my books. Nevertheless, I'm looking forward to next term - and hope the dreadful road works that have been doubling my journey time will be finished.

Being retired,  I had forgotten how bad rush hour traffic can be,  before adding in roadworks on every possible route all at the same time! I live on the west side of the city and have taken to driving all the way out to the east to go through the tunnel;  to go south,  we have to cross the river by one of 3 main and 1 minor bridge (other bridges are for trains, pedestrians or taxis/buses only)  or the Tunnel. I used to live on the east side of the city and took a long time to come to terms with the tunnel as I have a touch of claustrophobia.  There used to be major traffic queues and everything came to a standstill if an ambulance had to pass through or a car broke down.  After I moved to the west,  I didn't use the Tunnel other than occasionally.  In those days there was one carriageway in each direction;  now there are two (with 7 lanes of traffic feeding in - yet there were no problems). I spoke to a neighbour today who uses the a tunnel for his daily commute and finds it well worthwhile despite living in the west as it copes well even at rush hour.

On the positive side, I've had to leave home a lot earlier to avoid the worst of the rush hour traffic and this has meant that I get to college so early that I've  time to visit the library. This week, I was interested in a book on the history of pants/trousers, a very interesting book on felting, another on fusing with a soldering iron to make designs  and a book on the everyday fashions of the thirties as pictured in Sears catalogues. I've borrowed these ones and hope I'll have some time to peruse properly. Previously I borrowed Pattern Magic, the stretch one but I'm sure I won't be going down that route!

Edited to add:

I managed to buy my "inspiration top" today. It's only comes in black,  when I would've liked a colour as black trends to drain me but,  more importantly, it doesn't fit me well. So it will be going back - but not before I've fully examined it!  

This photo was taken in a shop on my phone when I first saw the top last month, on a weekend break.
I'd hoped to see it and try on in a different colour on my return home.

On the shop model, the pleats lie nicely across the bust - on me , they are too high.

Front pieces are self faced - simply the fabric overlocked and folded by about 5cm/2", the edges being caught into the princess seams.

Self faced crossover

There are two front pieces,  joined at seam with side front pieces and simply folded over and sewn together at hem, probably using a coverstitch;  the thickness of the hem is greater but not obviously so. The back neck is bound with the same fabric - I don't know if that would be bias or not.

Back of neck showing seam binding

The side front does have a facing,  not interfaced, extending over the whole of the top of the side front and sewn into the sleeve. It is also overlocked and extends down towards bust level.

This shows me putting my hand between the layers of side front.

The fabric is 88% viscose, 10% nylon and 2% elastane . It is not very stretchy and has a reasonably firm feel. It doesn't look difficult to make and all seams are overlocked. I think I have a piece of fabric that will work well but it'll have to wait until after Christmas.

It looks as though there is an extra pleat on this compared to shop model - perhaps due to being a bigger size.

Out of focus but it's too late to take again. It's still possible to see all the overlocked seams

Thanksgiving isn't a UK celebration, though it sounds lovely and I'd rather we'd imported that than Black Friday which is beginning to catch on here,  it seems. I hadn't even heard of it until last year. In some places there were crowds,  injuries...  One headline was asking whether Black Friday would kill Christmas.  That of course is our big holiday and when we tend to eat turkey. I have decided to do a couple of Christmassy craft projects if I get time - my mother arrives tomorrow and we're going for her second eye operation to London on Tuesday,  then she'll stay with me for a week or so,  so sewing time will be very limited and I don't think I'll have time to take better photos than those taken quickly with my phone - those taken with my tablet were no good at all. I know it's already Monday in Australia and just early evening in US but it's bedtime here and I have a busy day tomorrow and a busy week following that.

Update on Pattern Drafting Class, weeks 8 and 9 of 10

I've been continuing with my pattern drafting class. Week 8.

I got my bodice block to fit well. I then transferred the pattern, without seam allowances, onto thick card and marked as instructed with notches and holes to identify all the parts of the pattern.

This class isn't about making the bodice though - it's about the ability to design the shapes you want using your block. I was very excited about this. I must admit, I don't have much imagination - I don't see myself as a designer - but I want to be able to create some of the exciting shapes I see onto a pattern to fit me. I've managed to modify paper patterns not too badly on the whole but felt it would be great to have a number of perfectly fitting templates.

I can do dart manipulation - I've now got a pretty good idea of the theory, I think. I can create a princess shoulder seamed or armhole seamed pattern no problem. I can do a number of other manipulations and create pleats and tucks. I can draw in different necklines. However, I don't feel I have enough basic knowledge here as I know from my limited experience that there are limits as to what you can do - when I modified the neckline on my daughter's dress, to her choice of shape, a low back and front square with narrow sides, the neckline at the back didn't have enough material to support the structure and I had to re-draw with more fabric included. I think it worked out fine, though - it would be even better now that I have a clearer idea of what needs to be done.

I wanted to re-create the neckline of Vogue 8593.

Even on the drawing can you see a semblance of pull across the bust?
I've seen that now on some of the made up dresses in reviews.

 

I like the pleats at the neckline and the slight asymmetry. I worked out that I needed to work on a whole bodice front rather than just a half because some of the detail crosses the midline. Over the course of part of a class and then at home later, I pleated some paper in a way that seemed pleasing. I tried to do it on my body with some heavy muslin, but didn't really manage that - maybe this would have been possible with some help. The trouble is, I assumed that the pleats are a dart equivalent and should in some way be pointing towards my breast points - by simply folding them, almost randomly, that's not the case. I did cut out the neckline and draw in the shoulders.

You can see how wide in comparison to block underneath; the shoulder lines are lined up.
The paper tore but as I won't need to continue with this, I just left it.

So I ended up with a very wide piece of paper (a little like the tissue in the Vogue pattern) and I reckoned that perhaps I should move the armhole dart into the neckline area, then I knew that the shoulders would be lying at an equivalent angle to the Vogue pattern. I asked the tutor at the end of the class (it seemed that we were finished with that section of tuition), but didn't get the advice I was expecting. She said to pleat the fabric as I had been doing with my tissue, on the table, and lay my block on top, with armhole dart moved down into the waist, and cut out. I know you can do that if you have fabric that has pin tucks etc. My problem is that this doesn't give me a paper pattern that I could pick up months from now and make up in the same way as the Vogue tissue. Or does it? And how do I really know that the position of the darts and pleats is pleasing or correct? It's true that a little knowledge is dangerous! As things stood at the end of class 8, I said I'd rather use the Vogue tissue - my tutor said I was so close that I certainly shouldn't do that but I have zero confidence in what I was attempting.
Week 8's class was spent first drafting button plackets for our bodice then drafting collars from our block. I like the mathematical challenge and really quite enjoyed this. We started with a Peter Pan collar. I don't suit this type of collar, I feel - it's too girly for me, or at least this is how I have felt when I try items on, though I do remember one blouse I had way back which I liked with this type of collar, so it maybe depends on the fabric chosen as much as anything. I successfully drafted the collar we were working on.

I think part of my problem with this class is that I wanted to have a physical pattern that fitted me that I could then work on to create variations which would also fit me because they were from the same basic block. Then, of course, as a beginner, I need advice on construction and this class doesn't cover that at all. I had thought that you always needed interfacing when you had a placket but we drafted a double folded one which the tutor said didn't need this. I suppose I need to see this in practice and learn in conjunction with my dressmaking techniques class.

I have since read the appropriate bits in Suzy Furrer's book "Building Patterns. The Architecture of Women's Clothing" and that was really helpful.

Week 9

Well I left my pattern cutting class last week (week 8) feeling rather dissatisfied. With the teacher saying I was 'nearly there' but feeling I had got nowhere and no prospect of a further class.

However, tonight's class (week 9) was pattern draping onto a model. The tutor demonstrated her draping a design which she made up as she went along. It was very interesting. She told us to get the design the way we wanted it on the model, adding extra material if necessary. Then all fold lines, seam lines plus shoulder seam etc had to be carefully marked. Then the calico would be opened up and used as the basic pattern (with seam allowance added in order to sew it).

Then we had a chance to try it ourselves. I tried to drape a design somewhat similar to my inspiration piece. Obviously, I knew I was using a fairly hefty calico and the dress was recommended for stretch fabrics. However, I wanted to make up a pattern from a woven and just wanted to copy the neckline folds.

I got the basic idea of the draping and did rather enjoy it. However, I was very unhappy with my design. Even taking into account the heavier fabric, there was a LOT of fabric around the bust and shoulders. My model looked as though she was wearing a heavily pleated cape. Instead of a standard size 12 (UK), she looked at least 3 sizes bigger.  

Although I could have done some additional work to remove some of the excess fabric, the tutor and I decided that this wasn't a good design for me and I abandoned making this top. As the tutor said, I found out at an early stage that this design was not for me. She sees this as one of the key functions of draping. (Though I've since thought I might make up in a knit as per pattern and see what I feel about it).

Had the pattern worked for me as I draped it, I was very clear about the next steps. I would have ended up with a pattern to fit the model - not me, of course, but that would have been an easier next step.

So I still had a top to design for class. I decided that as time was now short - next week is the last week, I would be better to chose a simpler design.

Here is a picture of my inspiration piece, taken on a shop model. Again, the inspiration top is a knit but it should work okay in a woven.

So my steps are:

• Draw out basic block
• Change armscye dart into shoulder dart Princess seam.
• Change neckline
• Draw two central portions. One to be left unmodified, the other to have three pleats added at side seam.

I've drawn the pleats and cut measured and spread on the outermost layer; the innermost layer stays as is. At the moment, I'm somewhat puzzled by the neckline but we will be continuing that next week, I assume. Of course, the purpose is not actually to have a finished top but to know how to create a pattern for one.

 

Next week, we're doing TR patterning (I have no idea what that is - might not be TR, can't remember the initials.)

 

I've signed up for next term.

Bodice Block and Dart Manipulation - halfway notes on my pattern drafting class.

Although I live in a city, I'm attending a weekly evening pattern drafting course at a college in a nearby city. Well the city is nearby, only 15 miles away, but the traffic is so congested it takes me ages to get there, particularly as I have to travel at 'rush hour' as it's an evening class. But that's another story. I do consider the class worthwhile, so worth the journey. I still don't understand, though, why my local college, which has a huge textile, design etc section, which is internationally renowned, doesn't do anything for those like me who'd like to learn without attending a full daytime course.

This post links in to my previous post on Tissue Fitting, Toile Making and Pattern Cutting, as I attended a weekend pattern cutting course in Stratford upon Avon.

In Stratford upon Avon, we used measurements and calculations to draw up the bodice - based on Winifred Aldrich's work. After it was drawn, we added seam allowances and cut a test garment out of calico to test the fit. The fit was then adjusted, the pattern adjusted and another toile made. The fit was then fine, though mine did take longer than others in the class, I'm afraid.  There were only 6 others in the class so there was a lot of individual attention from the tutor.

Sunderland College has textile courses by day but this is in an adult education setting and the numbers attending are much larger, so immediately there is less possibility of individual attention though the instructor manages very well and I can't say I've been left disappointed by her response. The class is only 2 hours long and that also reduces the amount possible in the class.

Rather than use the Winifred Aldrich method, which the instructor felt suited some figure types less well, she decided we would drape. She said that drawing up would usually take the first 5 weeks of the course, leaving less time for pattern work.

So we paired up and took each other's measurements, transferring them to a sheet designed for the purpose. This wasn't directly relevant to the draping but was an important starting point.

The first week, we started to drape the front bodice (one side only) - on our bodies, not a dummy, although that's the picture I'm showing. This is a lot harder than it looks! The second week, we continued with that and added the back bodice, which was easier. The 3rd week, we trued lines, drew onto paper and then cut out of calico, adding a seam allowance of 2.5cm. My toile fits not too bad but needs the dart adjusted. I'm so glad that in addition to having a fellow student on the course as a fitting buddy, we have the tutor checking our pinning. Oh, and we don't do sleeves until next term - alongside the skirt block as that's a lot faster.

Unfortunately, I missed this week's class where some of the other students were transferring their block to card. The tutor says that I can catch up no problem next week, which is the week before the autumn midterm break, although it is actually 6 weeks in to a 10 week course.

As a student, I've been able to borrow a couple of books from the library, which is great. I've also bought a draping book, which is very interesting.

I've also looked at some of the Japanese Pattern Magic books - amazing, but I'm not sure how relevant they are to my day to day life!

Looking through Amazon.co.uk., I spotted this book, which looks interesting and is available on Kindle Unlimited, so I may have a look at it.

 In week 3, we started manipulating darts. To start with, we each were given a quarter scale cardboard template of a front and back bodice. We had to draw around these and then practice dart manipulation.

The first thing we had to do was to rotate the dart, which was a standard bust dart, into the shoulder, ready for drawing a princess seam.

Although I had read about this, I hadn't actually done it before. It was rather like playing with the little paper dolls and paper clothes that I remember from girls' comics in the 50s/60s. Quite a lot of fun, though rather messy as the tutor suggested using glue sticks - at home I will use magic tape and this won't be so messy.

The next variation was a yoke top with gathered bodice. Again, although I knew the theory, I found it more difficult to do in practice. It's important that all the construction lines point to  hem level, but I had initially pointed all of mine to the bust point - as a result, I couldn't get such a big gather. Once I understood what was required, I managed this.

At home, I re-did all my little practice models and put them in my folder. I'm determined to be organised.

The following week, we continued with some slightly more involved dart manipulations.

In addition to finishing the blocks, this week was planned to start to look at designing. One of my fellow students has terrific ideas. She has a notebook full of drawings she has done - mainly vintage inspired tops and she hopes to create some of these with what she learns in class. I realised that I am not a designer - what I want to achieve is good fit in some of the patterns I already have and the tutor says that's fine.

So hopefully, next week, I'll catch up and finish my block and start to do a bit of designing - though I hope this is more about learning how to actually use my block.