Tissue fitting - do you?

I received McCall's 7575 ‘free’ in my sewing magazine. This pattern was useful to me but I am going to cancel magazine subscriptions when I am able to as so many I receive are not useful to me usually for style but often for size too. This pattern contains all sizes 8 - 24.

On the envelope, the button band appears to be pulled apart at the bust. I don't know if you can make this out from the image here. I like the floral view D with the mandarin collar and the checked view A with standard collar

I like views A and D both of which have the longer shaped hem.

Anyway, this pattern was a Palmer Pletsch tissue fitting pattern, so I decided to have a go at tissue fitting. I have tried before but didn’t manage and didn’t like the process. This time, I had a specific pattern, specific instructions and the latest edition of Fit for Real People - actually called ‘The Palmer/Pletsch Complete Guide to Fitting’. The book is similar in feel to the previous version but more comprehensive. There are chunks repeated from the previous one. It’s more than simply a new edition.

I think the cover looks a bit old-fashioned, or retro? It's not bad but does concentrate on tissue fitting.

I went back to Thursday sewing for the new term on Thursday 13th and asked Lyn to help me tissue fit this pattern. I believe it is possible on your own but didn’t think it would be very easy. Lyn agreed.

I chose my size as suggested. I asked Lyn to take my high bust measurement as specified in the instructions - that is, the tape is NOT parallel to the floor, but also includes the shoulder blades. Lyn looked at the instructions and measured me as 41” (we did in in inches rather than our more usual centimetres as that’s easier with these patterns). That was in-between the full bust size of the 18 and 20 so I chose the 18, the smaller of the two sizes, as specified. My full bust is 43” - so by the traditional way of working this out, I’d be a B cup, just as the pattern is written for and wouldn’t need to alter. However, my bra size is 36DD - E,  depending on brand so I certainly need to do a FBA. I think my back is relatively narrow - most of my circumference is at the front.

I carefully taped up the seam (and pin) lines so they wouldn’t rip, pinned band to front, back to front, darts and shoulders together and tried on the pattern, cut out in a straight 18 as instructed. Now, I am 5’11”, a 36DD bra size and with large hips and derriere (probably more like a size 24)  - so if this had fitted straight off that would have been remarkable. Not surprisingly, it didn’t. It’s quite difficult to pull the pattern as firmly as they recommend but we tried.

Lyn said my armscye needed dropped a smidgen. My dart points were not in the correct place and the waistline was too high. Strangely, the front met my mid-line at the boobs, just, but I wasn’t convinced about this as I felt the pinning of the band was a bit insecure, allowing there to seem to be more room.

I don't have any photos from the sewing bee as it's just too awkward to do.

I dropped the armscye by ¼” back and front. I undertook a full bust adjustment of 1” using the Y method (but having since received my Threads magazine, I like that method better as you basically ignore the original marked bust point on the pattern).  At least, I started using the Y method, but it ended up more like the usual. 

One of the advantages of doing a FBA is that this would add a little in the hip area where I would surely need it as my body is A/8 shaped. Again, the instructions suggest that you do the FBA and then determine whether you need the dart position altered as the FBA drops the apex position. So many different steps. After the FBA, I dropped the dart by the amount measured. The point hadn’t dropped much at all.

After the lengthening process and the FBA, I had to redraw the position of one of the legs of the front vertical dart as the cutting line goes right up through the centre of the dart.

In addition, I dropped the waistline by 1” at the front (only). I altered the front band to match, increasing its length in 3 places - where I had lowered armscye (¼”), where I had dropped waistline (1”) and where I had lowered front for FBA (½”)

Where I deviate from the method

I went to Ikea to buy some calico for a toile as I really wasn’t feeling this tissue method and it’s quite difficult to get fitted in class as we have a male attending - and the toilet is far from a suitable place. I would need to have several fittings, altering certain bits each time. The class wouldn’t really be the place for that as others, of course, need tutor input. So, I decided I would make a full body version in calico rather than the half body you get with tissue. I also feared that as I am somewhat asymmetrical that I’d have to do this anyway though the method misses out the toile stage completely. I don't fancy faffing around with my real fabric when I get to it. Obviously, by doing a toile in calico, I am no longer following the method.

First, I checked the pattern pieces I had to ensure they matched each other. I realised that having lowered waist in front but not having done the same at the back created a problem. I felt I should have done a wedge-shaped alteration rather than a parallel inset and Lyn confirmed this. I therefore reduced the 1” insert to ½” at the side seam but kept the 1” insert at the centre I then added a new wedge to the back, ½” at the side seam and tapering to zero at the centre. The front and back side seams now fitted perfectly together.

This created a wonky centre line on the bodice piece and I had to straighten this by taking the extra off in the middle area. Lyn pointed out that my suggestion of just drawing the line straight and therefore adding at the hip line would not work as this would mean that the band would be at an angle. Likewise, the top part could not be adjusted. The amount taken off was larger than either of us expected, and Lyn felt I might need to add that on again at the side seam. As I was using 1” in-case seam allowances, I felt I didn’t need to do anything at that stage. But see later!

I also asked Lyn to measure my biceps and determined that I needed a 1.5” increase in the sleeve circumference. This blouse has a two-piece sleeve so that allows more room for manoeuvre. I previously determined that when I do full biceps adjustments that the sleeve head becomes too wide - I just don’t need extra there. In addition, I usually require extra sleeve cap height. This makes my sleeve head longer and skinnier. Having adjusted the sleeve cap height, I decided that I didn’t want to further impact that by involving that in a biceps adjustment. Lyn therefore suggested that the easiest method would simply be to cut a bigger size for the arms. I realised that this would mean increasing the bodice armscye, but I was going to be using 1” ‘in case’ seam allowances at the side seams, as recommended.

I then cut out my pieces - sleeves, upper and lower; fronts; front bands; back and back yoke (I didn’t make any adjustments to the upper back as Lyn felt they fitted well.)  Not cuffs, collar etc yet. When cutting out, I manually added an extra allowance of ⅜” to the side seams by drawing them in on the calico, to give a total 1” seam allowance.

I pinned the pieces together and realised I had just enough time to machine baste together sewing darts on one side only and to give Lyn a quick look (blouse over tee). I didn’t have time to insert the sleeves but tried one on for size.

Conclusions from this hasty trying on (sorry no photos):

• The shoulders, back and neck fit well
• The bustline looks good
• The back dart needs lengthened upwards
• When sewing, there needs to be greater dart intake at my waist.
• The blouse is very tight at waist and hips - the 1” SA was inadequate even let out to its fullest. The instructions are clear not to pre-suppose that you need extra at the hips even though you probably do. This is for two reasons a) doing a FBA will increase the garment hip circumference and b) harking back to the original seam lines makes it clearer what needs to be done and allows even change.
• I need to add ⅜” at the waist and ¾” at the hip both back and front
• The sleeves are too loose but probably the correct length given that there is a cuff to be added to the final garment. I haven’t quite decided whether I will have the long-sleeved cuffed version but felt it was best to get the sleeve fitted in this style.

Although trying on over a tee is less than ideal, this is the best I can expect in the circumstances.

Next steps:

When I arrived home from sewing bee, it was pouring, and I didn’t want to get me or my sewing stuff wet. So I left it in the car. I decided to start this post, working through what I needed to do next, instead of working on the actual toile or pattern. However, when it stopped raining I took the opportunity to bring my stuff inside.

I tried on the toile without the tee shirt, over my bra. I was pretty pleased with the dart placement. I was less sure about the shoulders as one side is unpicked and I can’t really judge, but the front seemed to be pulling forward and the back neckline up towards my hair. I’ll review that later. I don’t usually have to do a forward shoulder adjustment but wonder if that’s what this is showing - but I’ll wait to assess. At the sides, it looked like a very big gap was needed! Again, it was difficult to judge because as we all recognise, it’s easier to make smaller than bigger.

I added an additional inch to each side seam on the pattern and cut the sleeve down by one size at the armscyes only, leaving the larger amount in place at the seam between upper and lower sleeve. The sleeves are fine, but I decided I really need to try on a toile with more space at the sides, so I plan to add extra fabric there to get a better idea of the exact amount required and I’ll insert the sleeves to see if they work

It was too dark and miserable to get any photos. I didn't achieve any of me wearing tissue or toile at any stage.

Showing the extra added at the side seams. Not ideal, I know, but I thought this was the fastest means to the end

I added a ‘chunk’ of fabric to the side seam of back and front bodice of the blouse. I then sewed up again (long stitch) at the original seam line and tried on. David helped me as I took the side seams apart to pin in the right place. David is the first to admit that he doesn’t have much idea about this and the amounts turned out very uneven. However, we both noted that there was insufficient room in the bust area - the fabric was somewhat taut across the front - the trampoline effect. I clearly needed more bust space. I wondered if this was related to the front cutting line issue. Indeed, I noticed that the front band seemed to be rather curved. I also wondered if it could be related to just a straight piece of cloth being added at the side seams.

This is showing the markedly curved front band - it is completely unpicked at the sides so this is not due to it being tight.

I laid out the paper pattern with its alterations and noticed that it was less flat/more puckered than it should have been and that the front cutting line was definitely not straight despite our previous trimming. I decided in effect to re-do the FBA or at least, in part. I cut up the line through the dart to the bust apex. And cut through the centre of the bust dart to the apex. I then straightened the centre cutting line - this meant that a large gap opened up from the hem to the apex and the insertion for length was wedge shaped rather than parallel. I decided to move the side portion in to the same distance as before - this left the bust dart wider - which I need.

Showing the original FBA and the extra from the modification

I won’t need to alter the front band (though I need to check that it is straight!) as the front seam length is unaltered. I noticed that this was now a little longer than the centre portion but decided to redraw the hem to compensate.

I noticed when trying on that the back neckline was climbing up my neck (this hadn’t been the case in tissue) and that the shoulder seam line was very far forward. In the past with other patterns, I’ve had to add extra length to the front at the neckline, but not at the armhole, where the shoulder seamline was relatively centred. So I added a wedge adjustment of ½” at the neckline, tapering to zero at the armhole edge. I also added on a ⅜” in case seam allowance. I subtracted the same amount from the back and again added the ⅜” in case seam allowance. I believe this is in fact 'opposite' to what is required in a forward shoulder? I'm not sure how to describe this alteration. Yes I do know! One to suit my shoulder. Rory doesn't like terms like these - she says it makes people over conscious of their body 'flaws' rather than just fitting to suit their body. I hope I'm not misquoting her!

This shows the shortening of the back shoulder seam
I lengthened the front shoulder seam by the same amount

I also shortened the side bust dart as it appeared to be too close to my apex on the toile. I realise that could change with the other changes made to the pattern. I also thought the vertical dart was too long, again too close to my apex.

I then drew the pattern onto pattern paper, adding the average of the amounts David measured (I marked where the pins were) - this was fairly close to what Lyn had suggested from the toile - and then added a further ⅜” to give an ‘in-case’ amount for playing with.

I feel that there are enough changes here to merit another toile. I haven’t tried the modified sleeve (I’ve only sewn one so far) in the modified armhole yet.

I think I am not too far away from doing my blouse in fabric. Overall, I’m pleased with my progress on this blouse. I need to decide on fabric and which view I plan to make in it.

My conclusions re Tissue Fitting

I have come to some conclusions re tissue fitting:

Disadvantages

• The original tissue is used (tracing out and marking all the adjustment lines would take an age). I like to preserve the pattern in its original condition.
• Marking all the seam allowances and then taping up to those seam lines, in the seam allowance, is slow work.
• Once the tissue is cut - e.g. the neckline and armhole seam are snipped to the tape - it is more difficult to get a smooth line to cut around.
• You only work on half the body
• You have to try on, then change, then try on etc. Not feasible in the classroom situation.
• I feel that it would be more difficult to ‘preserve’ the pattern once cut.
• As shown by my inaccuracies, it is difficult, particularly in a very limited space to lay out, smooth, ensure the alterations are correct, pin on place and then tape as suggested.
• It means that if you are asymmetrical, buying 2 patterns (not feasible in the UK with the cost of patterns - although this one was ‘free’, to buy another is quite pricey. We don’t get the super sales there are in the US). This is one of the reasons I usually trace (not always) as I like to preserve the pattern in its original condition.
• After tissue fitting, it’s recommended that the fashion fabric is used to make the ‘final tweaks’ - while this might in any case be needed after making a toile as the fabric properties are different, I’m reluctant to work too much with the fashion fabric - I already make too many mistakes and have to unpick etc.
• So, overall, I found it slow, rather difficult, it fails to preserve the original pattern tissue - and I felt I needed to make a full body piece as I am a bit asymmetrical.

Advantages?

Hmmm. Perhaps as a quick overall check, this is fine.

Do you like tissue fitting?

I still like the book, though!

Wish me luck with the next (and most definitely final) toile. I’ll be using a fabric closer to the fashion fabric as I realised that this calico was a little thicker than ideal.

Tissue Fitting, Toile Making and Pattern Cutting

As a treat to myself, I went on a weekend pattern cutting course in Stratford upon Avon with Jules from Sew Me Something.  As per my previous course near Chesterfield, I had to pay for accommodation and travel in addition to the course fee. This time I chose to travel by train as having just turned 60, I am now eligible for discounted train travel. I bought a senior rail card and got 30% off - and it's so much nicer than driving all that way - and faster too. The cost was a little higher than petrol would have been, but well worth it. Two of us would drive.

In advance of the course, I was advised that materials would be available for me but to bring a Pattern Master (see above) and notcher (see right) if I had them. I already had the notcher but bought a Pattern Master. I was also able to carry another few bits and pieces which I felt might be useful. I also took a couple of patterns I'd had problems with - a skirt, made in a Saturday workshop , which I didn't feel like finishing because I knew it didn't fit, and trousers which I was making in my monthly class, which I was starting to construct. More of them later.

I wanted to achieve a bodice block/sloper - plus the rest if there was time!  Most people also wanted this (there were only 6 people in the class, one of whom already had a woven bodice block and so wanted to make a stretch block instead)

I was pleased that the class involved taking measurements and using these to construct the block from scratch, rather than altering a commercial pattern.  A lot of the construction was based on Winifred Aldrich's work, (Metric Pattern Cutting). I own the 4th edition but the current edition is the 5th, covering stretch fabrics in more detail.

All our measurements were in metric, which Jules feels simplifies the process. Before going, I had watched the Craftsy class by Suzy Furrer who felt that the use of 1/8ths was much better. In the UK, metric is more prevalent - I suppose it's what you're used to. I can work in inches as that is what was around as I was growing up - so I suppose that means I'm measurement bilingual! I must say I also really liked Suzy Furrer's class and have bought a couple of her other ones. It will be interesting to see if the results are comparable.

We paired up to take the measurements, which was far easier. We then began to transfer these measurements to dot and cross paper (to help keep things square) as per the instructions and calculations given. I was delighted that Jules was careful about squaring etc - I have a dislike of slapdash work. We were constructing a bodice block and then a sleeve block to fit. I took rather longer than most to construct my bodice block as I had quite a few adjustments to make after making up in muslin and trying on. The main ones were adjustment for sway back (taking up a 1cm tuck and adding the 2cm taken up back at the hem again) and widening the shoulder dart (our draft had 3 darts - shoulder, bust and waist). Finally, I was finished and the muslin deemed to be a good fit. We didn't actually transfer to card as a block at that stage - that was homework. I haven't shown pictures of the pattern working or of the toile - I could do but wasn't sure they'd of themselves be of interest to people.

After achieving a good fit, all the changes were transferred to the pattern. The new measurements were used to construct a sleeve pattern. The sleeve was then made up in muslin and inserted into the armscye. Amazingly, mine was a great fit! I have rather large biceps (weight and golf) and this is a particular problem I have with commercial patterns.

Some people had finished all of this on the first day, but I had to continue into the second. As a result, I didn't feel that I had time to construct a trouser block, as others were doing. I therefore decided to ask Jules to fit my skirt and trousers.

The trousers were being made from a commercial pattern - one by Palmer Pletsch. McCall's 6901.

 

They recommend tissue fitting and in my monthly dressmaking class (where many of us decided we'd like to make well fitting trousers...) we followed PP instructions to tissue fit. I was surprised when I had to add a lot to even the largest size of the commercial pattern, but I know I do have a very marked pear shaped body. I had taken calico to the class but as others voted to go ahead with fashion fabric, I did too, and cut out and began to construct the trousers as per pattern guidelines.

This was what I took to Jules. I quickly stitched up the trousers (I had been in the middle of doing the fly front and zip) to test fit. They were absolutely disastrous!! At least 2 if not 3 sizes too large - 3" pinched out of each leg - and the crotch was nearly down to my knees. This is very unusual as at 179cm (5'11") I usually find the crotch to be too short. 

I'll try to recreate a picture!! On second thoughts - you're just going to have to imagine this , including a crotch down to my knees!  Needless to say, my result was not the fairly close fitting and slim pant worn by the model.

Jules started to pin fit but then said I'd actually be quicker starting again - that is, unpicking and re-cutting from the same fabric using 2 sizes smaller as a starting point. I agreed that I would do this at home. I also took away instructions on how to make a flat fronted trouser block. At this stage, I'm not sure whether to re-cut from the commercial pattern or go through a muslin stage with the flat fronted trouser block I hope to create. I need to decide soon as the monthly class restarts on 3rd September. I'm afraid that I haven't had much chance to sew at home due to various family issues but should be able to restart this coming week.

I then went onto the skirt (version C). McCall's 3830.

 

I hadn't been very happy with the material as I found it took me ages to match the patterns at the seams. I liked the design but hadn't realised the problems it would cause me. You can see that although the fabric is true, the rows of circles are offset, giving almost a diagonal pattern.

 

I started this skirt in a weekend dressmaking class specifically to make a skirt from this pattern. The tutor would have preferred to go straight into construction but recognised that there's not much point sewing up something which doesn't fit! She therefore tissue fitted us all and we made pattern adjustments before cutting out the fashion fabric. There was no muslin stage. As I said, I had huge problems matching the pattern at the seams. I had got so far by the end of the day and hadn't felt like touching it after that.

I tried on the skirt for Jules to fit - and it was HUGE. (I should say that I have GAINED weight since the class so, unfortunately, weight loss was not the reason for the wrong size). There was a good 2" to take in at each side and 1" at the back. And obviously the contoured facing needs to be altered.

I was going to make the photo extra large so you could see clearly how much was taken in - but I couldn't bear it! This is inside out to try to show the seams.

As I was sitting contemplating where to go and what to do, Jules suggested that I make a skirt block as this was a quick project and faster than what I was trying to do. I managed to make up the skirt pattern from my measurements and then draw out again with seam allowances (1.5cm) but didn't have time during the course to go onto a muslin fitting stage. I'll get around to that, too. Jules suggested that due to the type of pattern on the fabric and its relatively small size, the degree of pattern matching I was trying to achieve (and had achieved, I must say) wasn't necessary. I should manage to finish the skirt reasonably quickly - it is a simple make, just the fitting causes the issues.

I started to sew for myself to get garments to fit, though - and that is by far and away the most important consideration for me. An ill-fitting garment can never look good, after all. I chose to go on a pattern cutting course to help me in my quest for decent fit and I think I have taken away a lot of useful tips, techniques etc. I also realise that it is not enough to transfer your measurements to paper and expect a good fit as we are 3 dimensional beings with circumference being made up by different distribution of flesh. Even within the class of 6, there were multiple variations.

I don't have my blocks yet but that will come in the next month - or so. I left the class with a large roll of pattern card (to trace the blocks onto for more permanent keeping) - I was worried about travelling by train and by foot from one station to another in Birmingham with this, especially as I was in rather a hurry, but it worked out well.

I found the class useful. I enjoyed the mathematical challenge of making the blocks and having someone patient and knowledgeable on hand was great. I should say that Jules also made wonderful lunches and delicious cakes for us.

Since the class, I have purchased a further recommended book, which I find fascinating It's expensive but worth it. It covers three methods of pattern alteration - seam method, pivot method and slash method. Some of the pictures in other pattern books made me feel I had made my pattern alterations incorrectly, but this book showed how pictures are manipulated and don't actually show the reality of a particular manoeuvre. For example, if you widen a sleeve in the biceps area by slashing and spreading, the sleeve cap will drop and the centre slashes will overlap - this is not always shown. Often, it looks as if you simply have to re-create a straight line but in fact there can be a very significant step in the line. I thought I was getting it wrong but it seems I wasn't.

Unfortunately, I can't remember the other main author Jules recommended but I have enough for now I think! One day I must do a review of all the pattern fitting books I have!

I've signed up for a pattern fitting course in a college in a nearby city. I don't know what to expect yet. It starts in mid September. The beginner module is 10 weeks long and then I could go on to more advanced modules, I think. They may have different prescribed texts and different methods - I'll just have to wait and see.

I also took away from the class the idea that tissue fitting is useless! I had tried to tissue fit at home but my husband refused saying he didn't think it was helpful as the tissue was so fragile - I now think he was right, though not perhaps because of fragility but because it doesn't bend to shape like fabric. I won't be tissue fitting in the future.

At times, I have found muslin/toile fitting tedious as I couldn't get beyond a certain point - and have cut muslin after muslin ...In my weekly class I was known as the 'Toile Queen'.  I won't resent any of the time spent on muslins in the future. I can't accept Palmer Pletsch's view that after tissue fitting go straight onto fabric fitting and miss out the toile stage. It certainly doesn't work for me.