Perfecting pattern for Helen's red silk dress; part 4. Getting rid of UFOs. Weight loss update

Altering Pattern Pieces

It might seem premature to start working on the pattern for Helen's red silk dress before I've had feedback about how the green toile fits.

While making the toile I was aware of issues which needed to be addressed. Even if the size is otherwise perfect and that's unlikely.

Cutting single layer - making full size pattern pieces

This is the biggy for me. The difficulties I had with the back were due to me cutting on the fold and the fabric slipping. I have already redrawn the back skirt as one full skirt piece, though I will have to modify and I will be redrawing the front of the dress as one full piece, too. I don't need to alter the back bodice pieces, unless I just do another piece to help with fabric layout. I haven't yet done the front.

Princess seams

In the final dress, the seams will be overlocked together pressed to one side and top stitched as in the original. They are not French seamed, though with a fine silk that would presumably be possible. Helen wants me to identically mimic the original so I’ll overlock and stitch over the overlocking. I need to buy some better colour overlocker threads. Note to self - put on my to do/to buy list

The first issue was the way the princess seams had to be folded on the back bodice of the dress. One side is rather curved,  the other is straight and Dan pointed out that the seam wouldn't lie in the direction of the curved seam. I therefore trued up the seams to allow them to lie in the direction they wanted to. A few minor changes but which should improve the sewing experience. I hadn’t realised this. I always find it fascinating the little tips I pick up which aren’t given consciously, really, but are part of the experience my tutors have.

Armhole

I also had to true the back armhole,  shaving a little off the area where the princess seam meets the armhole. I had to trim this area on the toile. There had been a small projection in this area,  as a consequence of the way the seams were trying to lie.

I carefully smoothed out the front armhole curve after folding out the dart. I had done this previously but I felt the edge was raggy.  It's better now.

I'm not doing these in order of completion.

Dress length

The sides of the dress were a good bit shorter than the front in particular but also the back.  Doing the toile, I trimmed the front after measuring from the floor. I wasn't sure how to make changes to the pattern and asked Dan's advice. She advised adding to the side seam to smooth out what is effectively a dip at that point. This would give me more leeway. The hem would still need to be evened in the same way as for the toile on the final dress. I haven't actually done that as yet - I'll do it when I redraw the pattern pieces.

External band at waist

I decided to slightly lengthen the band at the waistband - by 3 cms but haven't redrawn the pattern piece yet.

Pocket, pocket flap, poppets

Most of my time in class was spent on the pocket and this has been redrawn.

First,  I marked on the pattern front where the pocket was to go. This was pocket size without seam allowances. I attached pattern front and back at the side seams and continued the pocket across the seam. There will be a lot of drill holes marking corners  etc. I will also make card versions.

The two pieces are not stuck together here and have slipped slightly. 

After discussion with Rory and examination of the toile,  we concluded that there had to be additional support behind the poppets or they would tear out almost instantly. You'll remember the original dress doesn't have this and Helen doesn't want it. However,  the original dress has torn in that area. I don't  want to put a lot of effort into something which will tear so readily. I'll discuss with Helen.

Anyway,  I concluded I wanted to put an interfaced facing piece onto the pocket edge and the area where the poppets attach. Just a couple of cms wide but it should make all the difference. I will overlock so that there isn't extra bulk and move the facing away from the side seams where several layers come together.

Rory also helped me with the proper placement of the pocket flap and with the placement of the poppets.  Once I had it explained what the principles were,  I was able to fine tune this myself.

In class,  I also drew up the facing for the pocket. That's not in the photo for some reason.

I will redraw all pieces onto fresh paper and make cardboard templates for the pockets and the flaps to help make the seam allowances even.

I have ordered some suitable snaps and a Snapsetter (as recommended by Seamstress Erin). They are coming from the US, I believe, so will take a little while. We weren't very happy with the system we used though it did work.

Inside the toile pocket there are some raw edges and I need to think more carefully how to ensure this doesn't happen. Dan  also advised me on how to attach the flap in a better manner. One side on the toile is unsatisfactory.

The toile,  of course, was designed to help me with fit and with construction. I'm now much clearer about how to construct the final garment. Writing this, though, I realise I haven't completely worked out all issues (I'm thinking of bias binding at neck and armhole edges) but at least I'm getting there.

I waited before posting the toile as I needed to let Rory see it. Helen has now received it, says she loves it, has sent me a (poor) photo and intends to wear it to work today (Friday 27th January) and out for a birthday celebration tonight - presumably an after works drink. I didn't specify the problems I saw - and I guess if Helen doesn't see them, or doesn't care, well that's fine. I can't tell from the photo whether it fits well or needs any further modification.

I may as well wait now until I get feedback before completing the pattern modifications.

Broken Foot Control

At the sewing bee yesterday, I dropped my foot control getting it out of my sewing machine bag (I like to take my own sewing machine). We're a little cramped, to say the least. As it hit the floor, the control broke into 3 pieces - top, bottom and a spring. My tutor put it together apparently ok but unfortunately it was stuck and couldn't be used. I spent the rest of the class using the foot free start/stop control which I don't really like - I prefer the foot pedal and the knee lift as this gives me greater use of my hands.

My husband was reluctant to pull it apart although he didn't think it was broken. I saw a bit of plastic which I thought had sheared but he pointed out that it couldn't be as otherwise the pedal wouldn't ever have been able to move. I phoned my machine dealer, expecting to have to go and possibly replace the pedal, but he gave us instructions over the phone and the pedal is now working. At least I hope it is - I haven't tried it in earnest but it is moving freely. It seems that this is a fairly common issue.

Another Hack for Joanne? Postponed

I need to take a break from Helen's dress for a while. I want to make a couple of things for myself and Joanne, who is visiting at the moment, has asked me to hack a top she likes but which doesn't fit well - bust gathers gather on top of the bust instead of underneath, the length is pulled up at the front and feels too short. I have a couple of patterns with some similarities and I'd prefer to start there rather than with another full blown hack. I plan to use the pattern of the bodice for Joanne's bridesmaids dress to help with sizing, though as Dan pointed out that is for woven whereas this  top is stretch. Unfortunately, Joanne forgot to leave the top when she left to go back and so I think I'll leave that for a bit - we'll be visiting in 3 weeks.

UFOs

I thought perhaps a slightly snazzier image would make me feel better about these!

The first thing I do for myself will be a really simple UFO. I’ve decided I either complete the UFOs lying around or they go out - they are just taking up space both physically and emotionally. I’ve already abandoned a couple of UFO projects so I feel I have made real progress! I had decided to enter the PR UFO contest but as I have abandoned every project bar one I’ve picked up so far, that may not happen! I guess I can see why I abandoned these projects.

Abandoned projects

Simplicity 1156 - I suspect this is abandoned forever
Although Dan pinned this tighter, making the dress more satisfactory than it was prior to that, sorry it just doesn't work for me. I still find it frumpy and the length is not right - it is too short at the back, longer at the front, and overall just not an attractive length - I couldn't even the dress by trimming from the front (the dress is already hemmed) as overall I would prefer it longer. I also took off the bias binding around the neck and armholes (I can't remember why!!) so too much to do, anyway. This fabric will be discarded after I mark the changes from Dan's fitting onto my pattern - in case.

I've shown the skinny pattern version rather than the one on me, which is elsewhere on this blog, regrettably!
If you want you could search for it

Vogue 1082 skirt
There is just too much to do and as I am losing weight, it doesn't seem worth modifying the fit at this stage. I will wait until autumn as it's more a cool weather skirt in any case. The fabric I used is a summer weight cotton but I don't feel it suits the skirt. This really would be more of a toile for fit. I do like this skirt very much.

The skirt has been partially sewn up, basted and taken apart again - a mess of fabric pieces and threads

Sewing case
I didn't understand the instructions and didn't have all the materials I needed at the time - the interfacing was difficult to get (I have it now). I just don't need it at this stage.

Thread catcher.
Again, I didn't understand the instructions. It will have to wait - too much to do. This is not technically a UFO as I hadn't really started. I would like one but there are alternatives.

Trousers McCall's 6901
They are a million miles away with fit so not at this stage. The fabric will be discarded. actually, I probably won't use the pattern again, either.

No - I refuse to post the version I have; besides it's in pieces!

I also have trousers that I was going to hack. They had a tear so I had actually taken them apart and cut them up. Unfortunately I don't know if they would be anywhere close to fitting me now! Undecided what to do as yet.

Rory is going to drape me for a trouser block, hopefully starting next week or shortly thereafter. She originally asked me for my'best fitting pattern'. Sorry, there isn't one!

I am also going to another pattern hack class with Dan.

Postponed projects

The dress I hacked at Dan's last class, intended possibly as a MOB outfit for one of the events.

This is me in the original dress. The hacked version is plain grey

No photo of my version. The lining is great and fits really well but the outside needs work. I can't yet decide whether to take this garment with me to the new pattern hack class. Makes sense, doesn't it? In a way. On the other hand, something new that would fit in with my more immediate plans - a jacket or trousers would work better.

This wouldn't technically count as a UFO for the PR contest anyway as I will have to modify the outside layer of the dress which will probably mean re-cutting. The pattern certainly needs trued.You need to have cut out all the main pieces prior to October and I haven't. I'd like to finish this dress but I'm not in a hurry.

UFOs I will hopefully complete

Lace cardigan - more details in another post. Needs a fastening and the sleeves shortened.

Pattern envelope, now gone

This is from March 2016. Nearly done, just need to stitch hems on sleeves now -
sleeves looks short in photo but they are way too long

Skirt McCall's 3830 - more details in another post

The original was too big, taken in to too small, needs modified to intermediate state! Doable.

The fabric

These two would count as UFOs for the PR contest

The other UFOs that I have, which wouldn't count for the PR UFO contest are the two jackets I'm making but put off over Christmas and until now. They don't count because I haven't cut out the main fabric, just toile fabric and probably I was still working on them after the latest date, anyway. They will get done, soonish.

McCall's 6172 - just about ready to cut into main fabric. Boiled wool.

Grainline Morris Blazer - will be in lightweight boiled wool I suspect. nearly ready to go

Weight loss update

I was Slimmer of the Month for January with a weight loss of 12 lbs. 4 lbs this week despite Joanne being here - but I wasn't slimmer of the week as someone had lost 6 lbs and another had lost 5 lbs!! I thought 4 was impressive. The only time I ever lost more was when I was ill.

I'd like to carry on losing 2 lbs per week for a bit. 2 lbs this coming week would take me to 1 stone lost. That would be great.

Rest of August Plans - and exam distinction

I have a number of plans, including finishing off 'UFOs' or unfinished projects.

Two unfinished projects:

The first has been sitting around for well over a year. I need to finish or discard. I find the presence of these unsettling and I feel I can't move on until I finish. In part that's why I persist with projects when a more sensible person might give up.

In this case, the project, a simple skirt, is not difficult. The problem is pattern matching. Having already cut out the pieces before realising a smaller size was needed; I'm finding pattern matching all but impossible. I might have to finish but forget about matching - some say no matching is required with this pattern.

The second is V1082 which I think is a lovely looking skirt. The double contour waistband elevated the skirt from ordinary but also increases the complexity of fitting. The skirt has a few negative reviews on PR which surprised me.  This is a Sandra Betzina Today's Fit pattern. I think her sizes are closer to mine than regular big 4 patterns.

I planned to make this skirt for my college course. I realised that, as always, fit would be an issue, but I felt I wanted to make a skirt that was beyond a beginner's skills - I'm keen to develop (and practice) new skills.

We had 4 weeks in class (max 2h per class - in reality, much less time than that) to sort this out. It's not a great deal of time.  I find I get on better at home than in class but I like going to class as there is available advice. Anyway, in the first week, I cut out the pieces in calico with a view to making a toile to fit the skirt.

The instructions have you try on the waistband before you proceed. So I sewed the double waistbands together. I needed to adjust the top part of the band as it was too loose, so I took in a small wedge/dart at each side.

It was the end of class by this time and I didn't get a chance to carry on at home (or have it checked by the tutor).  When I was getting stuff ready to take to class the following week, I found I had misplaced the skirt pieces. They weren't in class. So at that stage I felt I didn't have time to search further - besides I had nowhere else to look. I'm a rather messy worker, I'm afraid. I thought the pattern pieces could have been binned in error.  I abandoned and moved on to the dress I eventually submitted instead.

However, I've since found the pieces! While fetching another pattern's pieces from my portfolio, I found the skirt pieces! I don't remember carrying the portfolio to class on the night I lost them - I find it so cumbersome and awkward to carry that I tend not to take it.

I made the adjustments I thought were required to the waistband and then sewed up the whole toile. I was fortunate that I had a summer sewing bee session, run jointly by my two college tutors and they fitted me into the skirt (view A). I had additional changes to make - they made it altogether tighter by taking in the back yoke at the zip area, 1.5cms each side, 1cm at side seams and enlarging and continuing the dart I had sewn out on the front yoke right through upper and middle yokes, through lower yoke and into side front piece. I have already modified the pattern based on these but have yet to sew up the toile.

I'm moving on to a toile for a bodice for my daughter. I previously made her a dress, which I fitted at a distance,  but which worked out pretty well. She wears the dress a lot and gets many compliments.

I found the pieces for the pattern for my daughter. I made her V8766 

with some modifications -  increased height at shoulder,  removed 1.25 inches from central back and a few other minor tweaks; the major changes were to the neckline, which was lowered and semi-squared back and front.

I had stored a tracing of the pattern pieces for her size (I made from a 12, the smallest size available on the pattern I had, though a 10 would have been a better starting point). Plus I had stored a copy of the altered pattern with its lowered neckline - this was looking rather the worse for wear!  I therefore

• Traced a clean copy of the modified pattern
• Traced a second clean copy but not completing the neckline
• Took the original pattern tracing, laid it over my modified version and altered the neckline.

So I believe I now have a basic pattern modified to fit my daughter. I will make up a toile and fit her the next time I see her. My pattern cutting tutor had requested that I make a hip length toile for my daughter, ready to start designing her wedding dress in class in September, which is the plan. What I have done so far will take her down to waist length and I need to add the waist to full hip portion to the toile - but I don’t have those measurements. The dress I made had a circle skirt, so hip width was pretty much irrelevant.

I have drawn up a pencil skirt in a straight size 12 to act as a toile when I see her - I need something to start with.

I used the same modified pattern pieces to compare her sizes v Simplicity 1418. I have worked out how to move on with this.  I will make up the dress and take to my daughter when I see her next; I'll be using an inexpensive fabric from the market. I am going to use a blue chambray-type fabric with white capstans and put white mini-piping in the seams, instead of finishing with bias tape.

The other toile I have to make for when I see my daughter is for her fiancé. He has requested a waistcoat - more details much later. I don’t even have his sizes yet.

I'd also like to make up toiles for my two daughters who will be bridesmaids so that I can do some initial fitting when I see them next. I have some idea of my oldest daughter's sizes as I made her a blouse, not altogether successfully, but little or no idea of my middle daughter's sizes as she is rather body shy. She has however agreed to the process. So I'll see what I can do.

My oldest daughter was coming this weekend, for a christening, so I thought I would see her. I made up a toile based on the sizes I already had but I'm sure this will require a lot of adjustment. Unfortunately, they have now called their visit off as my son in law is unwell.

So I have lots of toiles to make to start the fitting process for the wedding next year, a dress to practice skills, and two UFO skirts for me. I have a pattern modified ready to make a start on a sheath dress for me, one that I have made before, but that will have to wait for the moment. I haven't decided what I want to wear for the wedding, though I think a dress and jacket is likely.

I'm having problems with posting (and everything else!) since I upgraded to Windows 10 - apparently Microsoft Edge is not what I expected and I might have to change to Chrome before Blogger will work properly. What with freezing and not allowing editing in Drive docs, this post has taken 10 times as long as it should have! (Edited to add - I've banished Microsoft Edge and installed Chrome and now things are working as expected)

To end on a very positive note, I learned today when my certificate arrived that I got distinction in both courses I undertook (Pattern Cutting and Garment Construction Techniques). I'm looking forward to going on to the next stage.

Some thoughts while lying on a hotel bed; and some planning

I've stopped gaining weight thank goodness.  Just over 3 weeks ago I attended a funeral and my suit jacket was too tight. I'm glad to say that I've lost a couple of pounds and it fits much better. Easily acceptable. I do still plan to make a new version, though, as I'd like the jacket a couple of inches longer to cover tops better.  We're here because we're attending DH's uncle's funeral tomorrow. There wasn't enough time to travel up tomorrow especially in potentially difficult road conditions. We didn't leave home until the afternoon and by that time the roads were okay. We've managed to travel after one weather warning expired and before the next comes into effect. DH hadn't seen his uncle in a few years, probably since his mother's funeral - she kept connections going. There will be quite a few reconnections tomorrow.

I do get emails and internet on my phone but the screen is too small to read comfortably. Fine in an emergency of course.  Talking about which - has everyone got an ICE contact on their phone?  ICE = In Case of Emergency and lets those who need to know which of your contacts should be notified first in an emergency. I also have ICE 2.

This is my second attempt to write this post.  I completely lost my first when my tablet fell out my hand. I didn't know that could happen - losing the post that is. (Strangely, I found it on my PC when I decided to post this - so I hadn't lost it after all, but I might as well have done when I couldn't find it!). I'm lying in bed in a hotel in my DH's teenage stomping ground; it's still famous due to its Burns' connections, though that wasn't what he was reminiscing about - that was more about folk heroes. There was a great Folk Club,  with visits from the likes of Peggy Seeger, Ewan MacColl, Archie Fisher and Billy Connelly when he was with the original Humblebums and would play for his supper and stay with one of DH's pals. I can't get the hotel internet on my tablet for some reason, which is irritating as I was going to read a book on it. I decided to start this blog post instead. 

Earlier I got an email from the Curvy Sewing Collective publicising their focus on separates over the next 3 months, combined with tutorials etc - pants in February, tops in March and skirts in April. I love separates as they are so versatile. I think I'll try to push my current pants make ahead a little to try to fit in with the February time scale. That'll be pants, not jeans and probably not the US definition of trousers, though of course they're all trousers to me! I actually fancy making a pair of pants with an elasticised waist as I was reading a tutorial about this earlier. They'll be useful for working around the house and for sitting sewing. I think I'll need to make them in stretch fabric and know I have a choice of grey or fuchsia - I'll choose grey! Grey is also a versatile colour, goes with so much.

After I've made these casual pants, I'll go onto a pair of dressy trousers and a pair of slimmer fitting jeans. This to fit in with my trouser class at college. Probably not in February, of course, but certainly by the end of term, at Easter. You've heard of fast food, and of slow food, I read of fast sewing, well I'm promoting slow sewing! My object is not merely the finished object but the enjoyment and learning in the journey.

I'm back home. Exhausted!  I'm just making a quick update before going to bed, early. Travel was fine.

The funeral went well. It was lovely to meet up again with some of DH's relatives, despite the occasion. I think he'll keep in touch. His cousins are interested in some of the photos DH took including his uncle when he was younger. DH was the family photographer.

I decided to look through some jeans reviews on PR while having some supper before bed. It looks as though the Ginger jeans from Closet Case Files might best meet my needs as they are drafted for a pear shape and have online tutorials.

I've ordered the Palmer Pletsch jeans, too, as McColl's patterns are half price at present and these get quite good reviews. Some people complain that they are too high at the waist but I'm looking for a high rise so that will suit me fine.

Last week I notified my interest in 2 patterns being sold by a US PR member at $1 each. Although patterns are often cheap in the US, that's not the case here. One is a Vogue,

the other a Butterick.

Postage is pricey ($12.75) but it's still worth it, particularly as I could pay by PayPal. Interestingly, the reviews on the Vogue pattern are rather negative, with some people saying they were just going to junk the pattern after reading all the bad reviews. There were enough positives, however, to make me decide I wasn't going to opt out. Update - I received a $4.90 refund from the seller as postage turned out to be cheaper than she had been quoted. That was nice.I'm looking forward to getting the patterns.

I hear my bed calling! Truthfully, I'm tired mainly because of viral illness rather than travelling. I'll try to add a couple of photos to this blog and post tomorrow. Tomorrow I also plan to modify directly on the skirt toile I made last week (I need to understand what the problem was) and make up a new toile as the next class is on Monday. I still have a cough but am recovering from my virus, so I might also get my colour photo swatches done, if my skin loses its pasty grey-green colour and the weather holds up. We won't be playing golf as I'm not well enough for that yet, sadly.

Update - well, I didn't get the photos added and didn't post the blog the day after my return. So I'm doing it tonight. I added the photos but didn't edit the text. I haven't got my colours done yet. I still haven't completely recovered. I still look off colour and feel 'wabbit'. I'm hoping I start to feel better this coming week - and get some sewing done. I did repairs though - I put faux hems on two pairs of trousers to lengthen them (not enough grosgrain for the third), repaired the waistband closure on a pair of jeans and - more difficult - repaired the lovely sewing zipped pouch I got from my sewing buddy. The strap end had started to fray and come loose. I didn't see how to repair it and asked advice from my sewing tutor who said it had been bagged - just like the jackets I had done. After that, no problem - repaired!!