Sunday, 25 December 2016

Thoughts on contests; entering the PR One Yard Wonder Contest because it fits in with my plans

I said I wasn't going to enter any contests  unless it suited me.


I'd like to have entered the menswear one as I have fabric to make David a shirt and fabric to make my sons-in-law cargo shorts. However, these are all casualties of running out of time. They both preferred what they got instead!


There was another I was going to enter - make the fabric your own. We've been experimenting with fabric printing. However, again we ran out of time and weren't far enough forward. It wasn't just the printing, it was also the fact that I'd need to make something using our created fabric. Wasn't going to happen - not enough time.


Infinity Scarf

Then last week I started to make my mother a scarf using a small remnant of fabric which she gave me when she could no longer see to sew. I realised that this piece of fabric would fit the fabric criteria. Unfortunately,  I didn't take a good enough photo at the early stages (it's not going to work) as at first I thought the fabric was too long. However, what I had was a short length of full width fabric, rather than a long length of narrow fabric - width is not specified but length is. I realised this too late. I took a better photo with measuring tape of the finished item and it will either do or not. Doesn't matter.



From this remnant, I made my mother an infinity scarf with a twist.  It's quite short as I only had the width of fabric. I lost a bit of fabric trying to even it off,  so the scarf isn't particularly wide,  either. She liked this fabric, which will go with other things she has (I don't know if  she still has the original garment), so I decided a short infinity scarf would be a good idea. I didn't have any other ideas.




This was a very simple make. Folded fabric in half long ways, after evening it up,  stitched at approx 1 cm and overlocked. Turned through, started stitching the two ends together,  right side to right side, but I didn't line up the seam on each end - I twisted the fabric once so that the seams were at opposite sides.


I had kept the selvages but only then realised that one selvedge was wider than the other,  so I had to take a bigger seam there. I left a little gap to turn through and slip stitched the gap. Et voila! One short twisted infinity scarf. I have bought a scarf clip to go with it and hope my mother will like it.

I hope I might get to post a photo of my mother wearing it.

Addendum  - I've escaped for a few minutes. My mother likes the scarf. She doesn't have the original treatment any more but told me that this fabric had been bought to trim a matching hat.


Cushions

Next up, when tidying my fabric, I came across the rest of the fabric left over from when I made my daughter large elephant cushions.

I found I had two pieces left over.  I decided to use this to make her another cushion. The choice was one largish cushion or two smaller long cushions which I preferred.






The cushions are long and narrow. I measured the fabric and photographed before I started this time! I measured the size required and trimmed and trued the fabric and overlocked the edges to prevent fraying. The fabric,  an upholstery fabric, is relatively thick and has a flocked raised design. It frays a fair bit.


Originally, I was going to insert a lapped zip at the short end,  simply because I had suitable zips. However, when I mentioned this to Dan, she suggested a concealed zipper on the longer side was more appropriate  - she said that many commercial cushions are now made using invisible zips.  I thought the fabric might be too thick but she thought it would be fine.

So while on the way elsewhere, I went to the new branch of Hobbycraft which has opened locally and bought a couple of zips. They were more expensive than I might have bought elsewhere but were good quality and were there! So no further trip required.


The zips went in fine. That's not quite true - I had a few issues but these were related to me not them! After having to totally unpick one side because the pattern didn't line up after being sewn, even though it had when I pinned it,  I decided it was better to take the time to pin and hand baste. This worked much better. There is still a bit of shift despite initially machine sewing in place in the middle of the tape.





I think the cushions look quite good  - and hope that Joanne is still interested! She'll certainly like the cushion inserts as she loves cats. The cushion inserts are from Ikea.

Addendum - Joanne loves the cushions and says she'll send me a photo of the whole family of cushions - these two and the two elephant floor cushions (this fabric one side; tapestry elephant other side)

Less than a yard of fabric, even before trimming

Cute cushion insert!

Under construction


Other December Update (written December 16th)

I have some nice pieces of Christmas fabric (bought,  I confess 2 years ago) and had a vague notion of making some Christmas crafts but I've abandoned that thought. The fabric will still be there next year…  Maybe you have to start these things in January!


I've finished Joanne’s kimono and have traced out the pattern for Alison's which I'll make over the weekend. I've decided I can't really make up Helen's silk dress as there are some decisions to be made - I've made up the pattern and will have a toile for her to try. I feel that's best.

This coming weekend (weekend before Christmas weekend) I need to practice making gluten free pastry and a new filling for salmon en croute. I'll update this post after Christmas and enter the items in the PR contest

Addendum - it's Christmas Day evening and I'm bushed, and escaping for a few minutes. I finished the kimonos and will post about them separately in the next couple of days once I get photos, too. Ditto for the scarf and cushions.

Merry Christmas, everyone!

Thursday, 22 December 2016

Misses and reflections from 2016; a year of unintended selfless sewing

Do I,  don't I?

I feel every garment I've sewn has taught me something.  I can't help feeling that listing my less than successful makes will make everything more negative than it should be. A few of my less than successful items have never reached my blog,  I don't have photos - and I prefer them to stay anonymous! They have gone from my thoughts! Though hopefully they have still taught me something

So I think I'll combine this post with reflections. Interestingly, this was a year of unintended selfless sewing!  All my successes are for other people and the misses are all mine! I don't have a single successful garment for me from this year! Single reason - fit. 

So:

Once more, I will link with Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow


1


MISSES 


I'm only going to include 2

Cashmerette's Concord tee - blog post here (this is the 3rd of 3 posts) 


Puckered neckline and shoulder too far forward almost visible here

 Reflections on the Concord

I may try this again,  making the anti-forward shoulder adjustment which would also hopefully improve the sleeve and neckline fit.  With a better suited fabric (I think the fabric was a little too heavy although it did have the required stretch) and proper neckline trimming, I hope it might work after the adjustment. This version certainly didn't.  I gave away the finished tee as there were too many issues needing fixed, most of which needed to be fixed at cutting out stage. I couldn't even wear it around the house as it was actually uncomfortable.

This tee shirt reminded me of golf. One of the bad shots I have is a slice which is an uncontrolled  banana shaped shot to the right, if right handed as I am. There are a variety of reasons for this shot. One so called solution is a special ‘offset’ club head which pushes the ball left. I tried one and it simply didn't work for me. The trouble is, a slice is occasional and has a variety of causes so one solution doesn't fit all.

I'm not sure that everyone requires the same amount of forward shoulder adjustment, if indeed they require any. I have seen some doing a further forward shoulder adjustment on this tee.  In that case,  why arbitrarily decide on an amount?

I need to decide when it's relevant to try to continue and when it's best to give up,  taking into account the amount of work that has already gone into it and how much more is required. This tee has both good and bad reviews. I have had feedback saying it's worth it to continue - and feedback saying it's not. I'll decide next year!

Simplicity 1458 - blog post here (again this is the 3rd of 3 posts)



Above two before further alteration


Above two pinned for closer fit
I came up with a 'finished' dress but didn't like it at all - there were ongoing fit issues - too loose and unfitted. I haven't felt the desire as yet to move on with this, though I have since been fitted into it and have sorted the pattern. Maybe next year. On the other hand, I have unfinished dresses which will suit me better. If I had loads of time, I could consider both.

Reflections on Simplicity 1458

I entered a contest with this dress which was ridiculous when it fits so badly and doesn't suit me. What was I thinking of?  It was sewn okay but there was no way I would wear this in public - yet I put it out there. My only excuse is that I was in a post wedding slump and needed the impetus of a deadline to sew something. That's the only excuse I have. I've pulled back from contests.  I will sew only if it suits me to.

A few UFOs

These aren't technically misses since they're not finished. Included are Grainline’s Morris blazer, which I saw as a quick make for a casual jacket and McCall's  blazer, via my class. With both,  there are ongoing fit issues but I've run out of time for them before Christmas. This term,  my classes have been covering tailoring and I hoped to have a finished jacket by now. I've had to put it aside, though, as Christmas sewing takes precedence. They are both getting there. Both have required rather a lot of adjustments.

Reflections on this year's sewing

Is finished better than perfect? I'm really not sure. I can't wear things where I know things have gone wrong,  the fit is poor etc,  so at least if something is not finished, I still have the option to improve it. I know that I see problems in things I've done more than others are likely to and I'm trying to ease up on myself. That doesn't mean,  though,  that I intend to accept a standard much less than I could achieve with a little bit of effort.

I started my blog to chart my progress and I have seen progress. That's very pleasing.

I don't create a lot of garments. I don't need too many - I already have a full wardrobe and my clothes last a LONG time.  So I prefer to focus on making things  that fit well, and are sewn well. At least as best I can do. I'm more than happy to learn new techniques - new to me,  that is.  I've learned that cheap fabric leads to disappointment and poor results. And a badly fitting item looks bad even in good fabric. 

Not everything in my wardrobe fits well, though, and there are gaps. I intend to focus on those gaps and improve fit where I can. That comes down to trousers to a large extent! And jackets and blouses to a lesser extent.

I like sewing for my daughters but I have to understand that sometimes this is really for me and not for them! That's okay.

This year, I have expanded my range, my skills and my confidence. There is nothing I won't try now, though I will continue to seek help and support through my classes. I really value the direct contact with tutors.

I will carry on making toiles!  Maybe, hopefully, not so many. 

I will do another post, possibly after Christmas,  with my goals and plans for 2017.

Saturday, 10 December 2016

A Long Weekend in London




 I visited London, by train, with David for long weekend from late on Thursday evening until Tuesday, staying in a friend's flat in Islington.

Friday daytime, David had his own thing to do. I explored the local area, around Camden Passage, a bit then went to the medieval embroidery exhibition 'Opus Anglicanum: Masterpieces of English Medieval Embroidery' at the V and A . I enjoyed it but less so than I thought I would. There were major tube problems so it had taken me longer to get there than expected. 


David came and joined me for a latish quick lunch. Then we looked around the exhibition ‘You Say You Want a Revolution? Records and Rebels 1966-1970’.


We had headphones with appropriate music playing as we reached the correct part of the exhibition. I was at school during this period and pretty disinterested in music, politics and fashion - I would say I really only became aware of these in 1971, the year I started university, when I'd just turned 17. David is a few years older and was interested in music, playing and listening - and much more aware of political issues. But not fashion.

Two exhibitions on the one day is too much so I was glad to leave for my meeting with Kate. I left in good time but the ongoing tube issues on the Piccadilly Line made me a bit late. Kate of Fabrickated had said it would be nice if we could meet when I was in London. We arranged for me to pop into her office, close to where I was due to meet my oldest daughter. This was the best we could do with our clashing schedules. It was lovely to meet with someone you otherwise know only through their blog. I also briefly met Marijana of Sew2Pro,  whose blog I also follow, which was lovely. I stayed with Kate longer than either of us had planned as my daughter was held up. Even so, the time was brief and hopefully we will be able to meet for a longer period sometime in the future, outside the office environment.

David had originally planned to come with me but had to return to the flat to pick up Helen's parcels (her birthday presents and some parcels that had come to ours by post) and then made his way independently to Helen's flat. I ended up travelling there without waiting for Alison as she was so delayed and I was so cold. I usually associate London with heat but not this weekend! It was freezing.

Helen tried on her birthday skirt (see blog post, now updated with a photo).



To my surprise, Helen liked the skirt and it fitted!  Not so the ribbed polo jumper. Helen thought I'd bought a size too big based on the size label but it was actually a little small - but the neck didn't lie nicely, anyway, so that will go back. She didn't really comment on the sewing book I gave her!  ‘A Beginner's Guide to Making Skirts: Learn how to Make 24 Different Skirts from 8 Basic Shapes’ by Wendy Ward.  I think it looks good. She tried on the silk dress she wants me to hack to see what if any changes she wanted. I decided to go to Goldhawk Road on the Monday to see if I could buy suitable silk - red, sandwashed. Helen thought her dress was the perfect shade, really a true red but if the exact shade was not available, she'd prefer bluer rather than more orange. This surprised me - I need a cool red but I thought Helen was probably an autumn,  needing a warmer red. I'm no expert,  of course. 

Helen had made a lovely meal. She wasn't feeling well so even more amazing. This was the first time we'd been in her flat since the new bathroom was fitted and the decoration and furnishings finished. We'd taken a bottle of champagne for a celebratory drink. There was plenty of wine with the meal, too. A lovely evening. It was sad that Joanee couldn't join us. Afterwards, we had our first Uber trip back to Islington. Alison was staying with Helen.

On Saturday we all met up at Borough Market. 



Fabulous looking and tasting food. No photos of the amazing food - it was just too busy to even think of it. We bought some cheese (which we accidentally left behind in the flat but my friend is bringing it after her next trip down,  next week) but overall were very aware of carrying limitations. Lovely street food too. We went to the Christmas Fair in the nearby Cathedral (where amazingly one of Anthony's workmates was getting married that very day and we saw him arriving) Afterwards, Anthony left us to watch the England rugby game. 

The rest of us went to the Tate Modern to see the exhibition of Elton John's photographs ‘The Radical Eye: Modernist Photography from the Sir Elton John Collection’ and visit the Christmas market. The exhibition was interesting but not really my scene.  



We all met up for mulled wine and then travelled to Islington where we had a lovely meal in the Fig and Olive. And within walking distance of our flat. I don't have a suitable photo.

Sunday morning we visited Columbia Road Flower Market, which we love. Photos can't do justice to the colours, the smells, the atmosphere, so no photo! 



Unfortunately, we didn't feel able to carry any flowers etc home. I so wish we had similar on our doorstep. We could have spent a fortune! Alison did buy a little as she was going straight home and has since created some lovely DIY Christmas decorations - versions of what we saw. Helen still wasn't feeling well and feeling really cold so we went back with her to her flat. We had a lovely lunch and left her to recuperate.

Afterwards,  David and I went to the Barbican to visit ‘The Vulgar. Fashion Redefined’ exhibition.

I really wasn't sure about this exhibition. David liked it. I found the concept a little pretentious, I think. Maybe I just have a different definition of vulgar. I did enjoy the fashion. Amazingly, this was my first visit to the Barbican. As it was Sunday,  the Conservatory was open. An amazing space. However, rather dark. I guess in daylight it's brighter. Some of the displays were ill-lit, too,  and I had great difficulty reading the badly positioned placards,  twice briefly setting off the alarm. Nevertheless, I would go back. We got back to the flat much more quickly than we had got there. Quiet, simple night in. Warmer, since we managed turn the heating on.

When we left the flat on Monday to travel west, we found that there has been a massive flood from a burst water main,  causing millions of pounds worth of damage and so much distress on our doorstep. Camden Passage which I had visited and had coffee was at the centre of this. The retailers rely on Christmas trade so the timing is particularly devastating for them and the affected householders. Traffic, including buses, was diverted away. There were so many emergency vehicles and police.

We travelled to Goldhawk Road by tube. I was extremely focused and didn't buy fabric other than the silk! I looked at all the shops but ended up returning to the first I'd tried; the one we thought we'd buy in had a beautiful green (Helen's 2nd choice) but not the correct red. I hadn't realised that so many of the shops are linked. As I walked on,  I was asked if the fabric I'd seen in the previous shop hadn't suited. In one case, they had obviously gone to one of the other shops to bring me a bolt.

David bought a leather hide in Missan West, which had opened there since we last visited, though we have shopped in the Soho branches. He plans to make a camera bag. While there, we also visited Shepherd’s Bush Market. I bought a couple of zips. There were a few stalls selling haberdashery but I was focused!

I went to Oxford Street afterwards while David returned to the flat with his unwieldy hide. I couldn't cope with the crowds. There was no pleasure in it. I did see a coat I liked - cost £3350!! Simple, beautifully made - I aspire towards this. I don't think I bought anything at all and when David and I met up later it wasn't long before we gave up! 

We had dinner in Mem & Laz Brasserie in Islington. The highlight of this restaurant is the display of fabulous lights, which I tried to photograph on my phone but this didn't work.





Tuesday - home. A relief, to be honest. I've since started on the pattern for Helen's dress but it is a bit more complex than I realised - getting there,  though. I'll take it to Dan's Sewing Bee on Monday evening to see if I can progress. No point in posting photos yet - to come!
Not much time before Christmas! 

Friday, 9 December 2016

My Top 5 Best Makes 2016



1

I'm joining Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow in the top 5 of 2016

Given that I spent most okay all of the 6 months leading up to my daughter's wedding designing and making dresses,  it's no surprise that wedding day finery tops my list - though I ran out of time to make my own outfit. After the wedding was over, I had no sewjo, so my output for the year to date is not great. I found that I needed the impetus from a contest, with a deadline, to achieve anything. Sad, really! I do have some other items, including items for me, that are not yet finished so I can't include at the time of writing this - I'll save it in draft to see if I do achieve anything else.


With all of the following, there are things I could improve. One of my resolutions, though, is not to be so hard on myself.

1
Helen's wedding dress


I think it is simple looking and sophisticated,  yet with that youthful edge. It's so totally Helen.
Helen had a large part to play in deciding what she wanted, modified by my lack of skills - some things were never on the cards! I learned a lot. I struggled a lot.  But I came through.
This was a self drafted pattern - unfortunately,  Helen didn't want one of the standard available patterns. (She was right,  though)
We chose a beautiful quality sandwashed silk crepe as the main fabric and this was underlined and lined with silk,  too - charmeuse and habotai.
It fitted her beautifully.
She loved it and she and I had compliments galore.
No, sorry, I have no plans at all to set up any kind of business...
You really couldn't afford me...
Cost of dress - priceless!

Blog post link: here


2
Bridesmaid dresses times 2
Helen and her two sisters were heavily involved in deciding what they wanted.
Again, these were self drafted patterns, each slightly different to take account of figure differences. Alison wanted a wider band while Joanne preferred narrower to emphasise her waist. Alison is a carrot or inverted triangle and Joanne is an hourglass.
The fabric was a lovely quality crepe back satin in the exact shade of the groom's tie. It was lined and interlined.
The skirts were circle skirts. After hanging, there was some (a lot!) unevenness in the hem and because a fair bit got cut off,  a band was added to increase the length to that desired.
I ran out of time and the final dresses were sewn by a dressmaker,  including the necessary band, but I very much consider them my makes as I had made and fitted so many toiles and of course designed the pattern.
Successful. Blog post here



3
Still on the wedding - groom’s waistcoat
This was made using a Burda pattern. The pattern was slightly lengthened and slimmed down a lot to fit my son-in-law and meet his ease preferences.
The fabric was a beautiful wool silk chosen by my daughter and sil for its colour as well as its quality. The colour exactly matched his Cambridge blue tie  (the bridesmaid dress fabric was bought at the same time). The fabric sewed beautifully.
The back of the waistcoat was a surprise for the wedding guests - it was silk printed with a slightly reduced version of our family tartan. The silk was rather slippery and difficult to get the checks to stay square and lined up properly - I got help from David. I had never made a waistcoat but enjoyed this and it looked good.

A has worn it since and has further plans for it in 2017.
I'd certainly make another waistcoat.
Blog post here



4
Shorts/culottes for Joanne - times 2

At Joanne's request, I hacked her favourite pair of shorts (she calls them shorts, I thought of them as culottes but others on PR didn't agree and shorts they were!) for her birthday.
First toile after tracing 

Working toile - I needed to work out the various factors

I used double georgette for the body of the shorts and the same double georgette for the lining. The lining was bagged at the bottom, with guipure lace inserted between the layers. The shorts had side pockets and the pocket on the left had a concealed zip hidden inside. I was very pleased to master that particular skill as I can see it being very useful in future.

Blog post here and here

I was very pleased with the shorts and posted them off to Joanne - then less than 2 weeks later, PR had its Sewing Bee contest and the task for the first round was to create a pair of shorts! I had to make another pair!


This time, because of time constraints (there was less than a week from announcement to submission), I wasn't able to send off for the same lovely double georgette. I was able to buy georgette locally-ish but it just wasn't the same quality and was more difficult to cut and to sew. Unfortunately, too, the local shop had guipure lace of a different design, but not enough of it, so the second pair had identical lace.

Joanne agreed to model the shorts for the contest (a requirement was that they were photographed on a model) but again, because of time constraints, this wasn't possible and I borrowed a model from my sewing bee! I was surprised to get through to the next round.

I still haven't seen Joanne in either pair! One problem was the shorts were so similar (she did want black!) that she's a little concerned, I believe, that others will think she's wearing the one pair of shorts continuously. But no, she didn't agree with my suggestion of a different colour, or longer etc.

Blog post here and here
PR Sewing Bee entry here

5
Shirt for my older grandson (aged 7)




Last year, I saw a shirt Deepika on Pattern review had made and fell in love with the fabric., which I was able to buy from the US, the only source I could find at the time. I loved the Modern geek fabric. This fitted so beautifully with my grandson's interests, that I bought it and planned to make shirts for him and for hos younger brother. That was supposed to be around Christmas last year but it didn't happen, needless to say.

The the PR sewing for Children contest came up. This time I had a month, as is usual with the contests other than the sewing bee. I made up a toile in age 9 but ended up increasing the real thing to age 10. I haven't done the shirt for his little brother as yet, but hope there will still be enough fabric left.

I made no changes to the pattern (see what I mean - it's so much easier to sew for others - especially children). My grandson likes the shirt and has chosen it to wear on a few occasions. I don't have a great photo of him wearing it. There are a couple of photos but, well, they're not very good.

PR Contest entry here
Blog post here 

6
Okay, I'm cheating - I'm including a garment number 6 in case you don't feel I should have included the bridesmaid dresses (I didn't ever put these on PR)

Garment 5/6 is the most recent skirt I've made for Helen.




It's my most recent blog post.
I like it and would make it again.
I think it is a good practice for the tartan skirt which I will eventually make Helen using our family tartan.

For Christmas, I have a few other garments on the cards. A hacked silk dress for Helen and kimonos for Joanne and Alison. I hope I will get them done but as I draft this doc, they're not even started. I was going to save this post until later, but it's probably better now as we're all busy in the next few weeks.

I've noticed, as I'm sure you will have, too, that all the above are garments for others. I've come to realise that I actually prefer sewing for family than for myself, I think due to fit issues. I do have a few of the things I've made for myself that would be better in the 'disaster, dahling' section. I think the 'misses' section will be next!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

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