Another wadder, but feeling pretty good about it!

 

At class on Thursday, I was trying to finish view A of Simplicity 2594. I had told myself I couldn't move it on at home because the tutor had recommended a different way of attaching the yoke and I needed a further explanation - well that was true but also an excuse. I realise now that I didn't like the texture of the fabric (crepe but probably a lot of polyester in there), the colour - I'm a fan of many shades of pink but bubble gum pink doesn't do it for me, and even the style of the pattern which was not a usual one for me. In class, the tutor turned to  me after I had tried on the top for fit, side seams basted, and said 'you're not going to wear that, are you?' recognising that I have many items made which have not seen the light of day. She then said that she didn't think the shade of pink was flattering to me. I agree. I also felt I might not wear the top.

I carried on at home today to complete the topstitching of the yoke and sewed up the side seams. All that remained was the hems around the armholes and the bottom hem - I duly basted these and tried on the top to see what it was like. I didn't like it any better. DH realised on seeing it that it wasn't my style or colour and that I wouldn't wear it.

So I made the decision not to finish it, to banish it to wadder land - and to send the rest of the sickly fabric with it. I feel good about this decision. It won't be hanging around taunting me! I haven't decided what to do about the pattern yet - there are different views which are more 'me'.

I did learn a number of new techniques, so my time wasn't all wasted.

I should say that I didn't buy the fabric in the first place - my mother who can no longer sew because she is virtually blind (macular degeneration) gave me it with  a few other pieces from when she last sewed many years ago. One of the pieces is a beautiful fabric in golds and olives and browns - but I am a summer and these shades don't suit me. They are most definitely my mother's colours. She also loves cowl necks. My original intention in making the pink cowl top was to have a practice run to make her one from the gorgeous silky brown floral. I'm not sure she'd like the style, either, however, I think she'd prefer sleeves. I wasn't keen on the fit for me and feel that the particular fit around the armholes wouldn't suit my mother, either.

I feel good about my decision to jettison and not finish. This is linked in to trying to get rid of 'stuff' accumulated over the years as we're thinking of downsizing as our house is too big for just the two of us, despite a proliferation of hobby-related paraphernalia.

It's just over a week since my birthday. For my birthday, one of my gifts, from my youngest daughter, was of labels to sew into my handcrafted garments. I'm looking forward to using these.

WIPS and Wadders

I'm going to a sewing workshop for 3 days next week - a birthday present from my mother. I'm going to be making a jacket.

I'll probably make Simplicity 2149, version B/C using a beautiful pure wool fabric. I'm also taking Simplicity 2341 and a couple of choices of fabric - a black jacket weight linen and a grey slightly velour fabric.

There are pink and beige tones in the wool which don't show up very well in my photos.

 

 

Both jackets are unlined. S2149 has Hong Kong seaming and I went to great efforts to get enough of an appropriate bias tape; I was going to make my own but in the end decided it was easier to buy. I bought 25 metres of 5/8" single bias binding, which I planned to fold, slightly asymmetrically along the gap in the centre; the pattern calls for 1/4" double bias binding. I can't buy already made double bias binding.

Really, however, I fancied lining any jacket I make but thought my tutor next week would consider that to be too advanced for me; however, she has responded to me saying that she would prefer me to line than do Hong Kong seam finish as it is faster and neater. I kind of broke my fabric fast by buying new lining fabric for the wool jacket, but I consider that justified so don't feel in the slightest guilty. And DH came along with me so he's not too worried about my growing fabric stash, really.

Interestingly, I asked this tutor her recommended way of pre treating my wool fabric as I had read several different options; these included dry cleaning, soaking in cold water then drying in rolled up sheet; washing in cold water; steaming all over and putting in tumble dryer with two hot wet but squeezed out towels. When she responded by email she suggested that most fabric, with the exception of denim, didn't actually need pre treatment. I have already pre-treated most of my fabric and really don't feel happy about not pre-treating the wool. I had also asked whether I needed to pre treat the bias binding - but it looks as though I won't be using that now.

However, I had several works in progress. I'd really like to have finished these before starting another!

The first is a sleeveless cowl neck top Simplicity 2594 version A, in pink crepe.

 

This was to be my June garment for the Make a Garment a Month Challenge. I started this in my weekly Thursday sewing class, firstly altering the pattern for length so the waist shaping would be in the right place. My tutor there didn't like the way the  shoulder yoke was added to the garment and so I started doing it her way at class, unfortunately missing the next class because of a golf match (in which we didn't do very well, regrettably). I wasn't able to continue by myself as I didn't really understand the process. I do now. At class on Thursday I was able to move the garment on and am nearly finished apart from top stitching and hemming of armholes and bottom. That shouldn't take too long but I can't think about doing it now before my jacket workshop next week. I'm back at class on Thursday, though, so should manage to finish it then. I do, however, prefer my own sewing machine so might decide to finish it at home instead. Next week is regrettably the penultimate class before the summer break -start back in mid September.

The second is a wadder. I had fabric left over from my burda dress. I like the dress and the fabric lies nicely and is reasonably flattering. After looking at options, I decided to buy Colette's Mabel, a beginner knit skirt.  

I certainly didn't want to make a mid thigh version so decided to make version 3, a pencil skirt with front princess seams designed to be just about knee length. I lengthened the pattern by 1.5" to account for my height and bring it to the correct length. I had already cut out and decided that I'd finish it today, perhaps even wear it while away. The pattern was fairly easy to make up although I had great difficulty in understanding how to attach the waistband and lining; the pattern instructions have you trim 1/8" off lining to cause it to turn in. I got this wrong, sewing the wrong side. I re-cut the pieces - well it still wasn't right, I'm afraid. I would have preferred to understitch, but maybe that isn't suitable in a stretch waistband. Finally I finished attaching the waistband ( 'a mid rise contoured waistband') and tried the skirt on before hemming. I had already basted and tried on, over my trousers (in class) and it seemed fine size wise though there was no waistband at that time. I wasn't sure about the position of the waistband, but really that was the least of my problems. I really dislike the shape of this skirt. I had seen a few pictures of completed garments, which I thought were too tight; mine isn't. However, I have a full high hip, an inward dent and full high thigh - the result when wearing this skirt is not pleasant to see! My husband immediately commented 'you really do need to lose weight' (he's right and this wasn't said in an unpleasant way - he's very supportive but I've gained a stone of the two I lost.) I'm not going to finish the skirt - I actually don't think my shape changes enough with moderate weight loss to make this a flattering style for my shape. Fitting lessons advise against emphasising this hip type and well, a knit pencil skirt does exactly that.

That's all I'm showing of the skirt. This is the waistband with the finer weight lining. Not a nice sight.

 

My third unfinished garment is a pair of trousers. I go to a monthly dressmaking class (now finished until September) and we tissue fitted each other into McCall's 6091, a Palmer Pletsch easy fitting pattern.

 

 I made a number of tissue changes to account for leg length, small waist, full hip etc. I was going to make up a muslin of the result but this was voted down in class and we went straight onto cutting out fashion fabric last week (our second class). I used a fabric that I don't mind losing if the result is not good but can wear if it is.  

I got so far in sewing up. As the next class is not until September, I will probably finish off myself before then.

My fourth unfinished garment is a skirt that we started in a make a skirt class linked to the monthly dressmaking class, but we didn't get finished within the day. Version C., knee length. 

 

I would definitely have preferred to make a muslin and then alter the pattern and cut out the fashion fabric. Instead, we tissue fitted and then cut out fashion fabric (same tutor as the pants ). I had some problems with my fabric. I bought suitable fabric from the shop where the class is held (a quilting shop) and prepared it ready for the skirt making class. Unfortunately, at class I then found a flaw which ran throughout the fabric at a regular interval and so my fabric was replaced by another, an art gallery fabric, but which a) wasn't prepared and b)the pattern was set at a slight diagonal and difficult to deal with.

Waistband ready to sew up. The diagonal direction of the fabric is easier to see in the next photo; I wouldn't have chosen if I had realised in time i.e. before I cut into it!!

Nice fabric but I wish I had never seen it. Some of the problems I have had with making the skirt up may be due to the accommodations I had to make to account for the fabric pattern. And of course, I had to match the pattern which was extremely difficult. There is another skirt making class in September - I may leave it until then! I don't feel any urge to fight with it at home.
Maybe by this time next week, I'll have a finished jacket and a finished top. 

Summer Stashbust

I've just learned about this from Nakisha's blog. I've decided to go along with it as DH is complaining that fabric is rather taking over. I've plenty to last me - especially at my rate of sewing. I wish I had some of Nakisha's speed!



Fortunately, I'd already bought the fabric for the jacket I'm going to be making in a 3 day workshop in July - I hope the lining material I have is okay; it's the perfect colour but I have no idea what it is. I got a large piece of fabric from my mother who hasn't sewn for many years now. It's rather satiny but looks like it might be cotton. I'm not sure how to test. It's not silky and has a reasonable weight. I'm not at class this week as I'm golfing on Thursday - trying to defend the team trophy we won last year. I still need to buy the notions but that is okay I think!

All's Well That Ends Well ...

 

What a week we've just had! My youngest daughter DD3 decided to come home for 2 weeks to resit her driving test, which she had failed four times previously a number of years ago. She works in London where a car is a burden rather than an advantage so hadn't bothered much about her lack of licence until she heard an interviewing manager berate someone for allowing someone without a driving licence to be interviewed. This manager was not aware of my daughter's position. In addition, a number of jobs were closed to her because of her lack of a licence. As she found herself between jobs, she decided to come home to take an intensive course of driving lessons and sit her test. She was having lessons for 3 hours per day and in addition her Dad was taking her out in his car. She couldn't take mine as I have an automatic.

Last Thursday evening, her boyfriend came to visit. Unfortunately, he lost or had stolen his wallet with money, cards, Oyster card, travel pass, driving licence etc. between getting off the underground at King's Cross and reaching King's Cross mainline station where he had to pick up his tickets - not easy when you don't have the credit card you ordered them on and no identification! As of tonight there is no positive word about his wallet, though his Oyster card was replaced very quickly.

On Tuesday, my daughter managed to crash her dad's car. No injuries. She was in a car park and seems to have repeatedly pressed the accelerator rather than the brake. She crashed into an empty properly parked car. DH's car is a heavy diesel car and basically swiped the other car out of the bay and the wheel of that car has totally collapsed - not a robust car! DH's car is damaged but he was able to drive it home, however, because it is so old, looks as if it is a write-off as the cost of repairs is more than the car is worth. The other car looks as if it is a write off too. And this in a car park! DD3 must have been going very slowly at the time as she had been manoeuvring into the space. DH phoned me to come get her. She was obviously distraught but had met nothing but kindness from the people around, including the owner of the other car, an employee of the adjacent shop, and indeed one woman who was delightful and turned out simply to be a passing customer. An hour later, DD3 was out for her 3 hour driving lesson.

Because my daughter was visiting, I started making her the Cynthia Rowley dress that I had previously promised. I bought a pattern I thought she might like and borrowed one from my instructor - and she unfortunately chose the latter. I was concerned as the few reviews I had read suggested it was a difficult pattern. She loved it, though, and I agreed to try if my tutor was on hand for help. Last Monday, we went to choose fabric. I had thought a nice cotton but she chose stonewashed denim - admittedly, this was a lightweight denim (though not so lightweight IMO) and was listed as suitable on the pattern envelope. I must say, that although the fabric was very thick, particularly in places with several layers and tight gathering, my new Bernina managed it well. I do like it. I love the sturdiness of the feet - and the invisible zipper foot was a joy to use. I do miss some of the bells and whistles of my other machine but I am willing to give these up for the quality and ease of stitching.

 See the rabbit ears on the back of the dress. A complex bodice. A nice jacket pattern but I'm not sure you could wear the jacket with the dress - certainly not with thick denim ears.

I had previously tried out the complicated bodice section in a muslin to check to see if I could even do it and for fit. My daughter felt it needed to be a little longer in the front bodice. The bust cups were perhaps a little large but I had no idea how to do a SBA - no problem, she'd wear a padded bra.

Last Thursday I went to my class with all the pieces cut out and started to assemble it. I looked through the pattern with the tutor to try to anticiapte any particular problems. I continued in any free time I had this week. I wasn't sure if I would get it finished but had said this would be for passing her driving test. She felt she might never get it but I said or as a commiseration for failing.

I planned a number of modifications.

·         No ties. I planned to close with hooks and eyes.

·         A slight increase in front bodice length

·         Miss out underlining as fabric already quite thick - this was a late decision and I did try unsuccessfully on a few occasions to insert it. Underlining too short.

·         I made the shorter length dress B with the wider straps from A as requested.

One unplanned modification was the need to lengthen the bodice lining quite apart that is from the lengthening I did. I read a few reviews - well 49 reviews! - and many mentioned the short lining. My tutor had thought that the underlining might pull this area up - and of course, I decided to miss out the underlining, which wasn't stitched together with the main fabric as I understand is usually the case but was added like a lining after all the darts and tucks were put in the main bodice. The underlining and the lining were the same pattern pieces. It became clear that the underlining had NOT been designed to pull up the front. While assembling the bodice, I initially accidentally missed off the lower bodice font and panicked when my underlining was too long! I adjusted the darts and pleats to fit the lining and then realised my error. So I had to redo the pleats and darts. I feel that the lining has failed to take into account the lower bodice and that this is actually a pattern error.

On Monday I was golfing but really was unable to complete my round as I was in so much pain. I'm quite a lot better now. I was also on duty at the golf tournament. I've attended the chiropractor, had an MRI and increased my intake of NSAIs.

Last night, I inserted the invisible zip into the dress. I wasn't very happy with the placement as the top of the zip was very bulky and shifted slightly but wasn't sure how to alter it. The original dress calls for rather large 'rabbit ear' ties on the back (which would cover a multitude of sins!) but in denim these would have been ridiculous. Today I was at the dressmaking class and my tutor helped me work out how to alter my zip insertion. I had to take out the top part of the zip, fortunately not the whole thing, and modify the underlying material. The zip is attached after the ruffle and lining is put on so I found it very awkward to manipulate the fabric. The gap in the centre which would have been tied with the rabbit ears was rather large. I thought that I might use hooks and eyes to close but my tutor suggested a band behind. That's what I went with and earlier this evening, finished this band closure with 4 small poppets - I had tried 1 large one earlier but this didn't work.

At class, I was asked by one of the younger 'students' (in her 30s) whether I'd like to adopt her and make her the same dress (I declined). She loved it and modelled it for me to check the top back closure.

I finished my dressmaking class at 2.30pm today, just as my daughter was about to sit her driving test. When I returned home, I busied myself completing the dress hem, poppets and stitching down the lining but began to get concerned as 3.30pm came and went and we hadn't heard. We had ingredients for a special meal (pass or fail) and champagne. A few minute later, my daughter arrived home - and she had PASSED!  She had a very good test with only one minor fault. When the examiner told her she had passed she burst into tears. When he learned that she had sat it a few times previously, he told her she was her own worst enemy. How many people do you know who have written off 2 cars and passed their driving test in the same week?

So, we had a photo shoot of DD3 wearing her new dress, holding a glass of champagne and her old L plates had been modified - also seen in photos.

 

 

I enjoyed making the dress for my daughter. It's certainly not a style I'd wear so I'd have no call otherwise to attempt this pattern. It was slightly frustrating but a lot of fun too and I feel a real sense of satisfaction in having completed it. I'd make it again, though I'd prefer a finer fabric. I also don't think she actually needed the lengthening of the front bodice and would reverse this - that would make the hem more straightforward - I had forgotten about my lengthening so the hem didn't lie evenly until I corrected it. I would also continue the bodice lining to make it full length as that would be a nicer finish at the waistband. It looks good and my daughter says she loves it. She's planning to wear it tomorrow to an interview prior to starting her new job on Monday.

Tonight my daughter learned that her boyfriend was promoted at work today and that her flatmate has just gained tenure (as a barrister).  She has now gone off back to London. I gave her a bottle of champagne so they could celebrate the good things happening today. We can have a relaxing night.

So, as I said, all's well that ends well.

 

Lots of thinking and preparation - but not much actual sewing.

Well, my week off sewing has stretched to rather longer than that. Things happen, of course. I've been busy with family and golf and haven't been keeping too well.

However, class started last Thursday again. I altered and cut out Simplicity 2594. I needed to grade pattern from an 18 at bust to a 22 at hips. I've decided to make view A of Simplicity 2594 (the green and white diagonal stripe top left on pattern envelope) in a pink polyester type fabric. View A is longer so I won't need to add so much extra length. I'm not planning at this stage to add the belt but may do when I finish it if it looks as if it needs it. I  have already altered pattern and cut out, grading from an 18 at bust to 22 at hip. I'm a real pear. I did have to lower waistline position to match mine, which effectively lengthened pattern overall by 1". Front and back are cut on the bias in this pattern which has a loose draped neck. This picture is view C, which I will do for my Mum. My fabric is a pink polyester type, I think.

 

My mother loves these necklines and my plan is to do the shorter length (view B- the main picture)for her in a fabric she gave me. She can no longer sew due to her eyesight and gave me a number of notions and a bit of fabric. The one I have chosen to make the top for her just doesn't suit my colouring  but is exactly her.

 

She also gave me a fabric in purple floral and this is so not her! I see that a part of the fabric is hemmed all around; it is in 2 pieces - I wonder if she was planning some home dec? No, I can't see where it would fit in. There is a fair bit of this fabric so I need to decide what I can do with it.

 

I'll carry on with Simplicity 2594 tomorrow at class.

My serger/overlocker has (nearly) been pronounced defunct! The printed circuit board (PCB) has a fault and these are normally replaced rather than repaired even though it could simply be a loose connection. The dealer I went to for the repair has been incredibly slow - promised 7 - 10 days and it has now been 3 weeks. He is trying to get a price for the PCB but feels I would be better in any case with a new serger with guarantee as the price would be higher than I had initially okayed. I'm not happy with this dealer. I had been considering a Pfaff coverlocker but feel his service has not been good - doesn't phone when he promises etc and it is clear they are under great stress at present. They do Pfaff, Brother, Juki, Janome, and Toyota. The Toyota jeans machine might work for DH's leather?

My husband wants to sew some leather and my sewing tutor suggested getting a reconditioned mechanical Bernina from another slightly less local dealer. We went, they didn't have one, but in summary DH was very impressed with Bernina (and the dealer) and has offered to get me a Bernina overlocker (not a coverlocker as dealer advised against this) AND upgraded sewing machine - the 750QE - for my big birthday coming up. The dealer has good reviews from other people. On the basis that people say choose your dealer, then the machine, he seems the one to go for. The dealer I bought my current Brother from (who is also a Viking agent which is why I went there in the first place - my original Viking 6690 died) is okay. I go there for a monthly sewing class - tomorrow night - but they largely deal with quilting, hiring in a dressmaking tutor once a month. We are going to the Bernina agent on Friday for a play and demo of the machines. I must say DH is more keen than I am - I think the 750QE is overkill! I do want to have my machines so that they can have interchangeable feet etc and that is not currently the case with a Brother and a portable Viking (bought to use the feet from my previous Viking but I don't really like it - just too light weight, really). I bought the current Brother Innov -is 350SE when I wasn't sure whether I would take to dressmaking. However, it has been providing problems with sewing over seams where stitch length alters and a few issues with catching. Rather frustrating and I'm happy to upgrade - but this far? I'm not a quilter.

Any thoughts?

The monthly sewing tutor is doing an additional all-day class this weekend to make a skirt and I'm going along to that. I haven't quite decided on my fabric etc. It's using McCall's 3830. I'm going to do view C - the knee length one.

 

I recently visited Linton Fabrics in Carlisle as I'd heard so much about them from the sewing community. Their fabrics are pretty pricy but I bought some remnants and also 2 x 1 metre skirt lengths. They have a large check though and the sewing tutor advised against this for the skirt, so they won't do. I washed one of the cotton mix fabrics and found that was a bad idea! There was a great deal of unravelling! I won't post picture yet.

I haven't carried on with the knits I was doing because of the lack of a serger. I've enjoyed the experience of working with them, though. I have enough of the fabric from my grey dress left over to make a skirt, and am wondering whether I could use that on Saturday. I'll ask tomorrow night. That would increase the versatility of the dress and jacket. I'll have to think about a suitable top though.

 

Tomorrow night, I believe we are starting to make some trousers. I'm looking forward to that but I'm taking muslin rather than a fashion fabric. I will have quite a few modifications to make to the pattern - I have tried pants muslins before but gave up as it was so difficult on my own. This should be good.

On a last note - my mother has bought me a 3 day sewing break for my birthday. I will be having individual tuition! It's a bit away from home so I'll be staying in a hotel for 2 nights. I originally hoped to take her class on finishing techniques, but I'm also going to be making a jacket! The tutor chose a jacket pattern from my selection and yesterday I bought the fabric - 100% pure wool. This is the most expensive fabric I have bought as yet. I still need to buy the trimmings and I want to line it. I'm looking forward to this.

 

When I went to the fabric shop, I also bought a metre of purple cotton jersey to make a tee shirt, using Wendy Mullin's (Built by Wendy) Sew U Home Stretch book but that will have to wait until I have a working overlocker.

 

 

So, not much sewing but a lot of thinking about it and preparing for it!!

Anne

Last of my sewing for a week; last winter street dress for a while (now remodelled for summer!)

It's Sunday today and I'm busy trying to get things ready to go to a 4 day golf championship tomorrow in a Hartlepool. I'm not playing golf - I'm there because of my committee role in my local Northumberland County. I basically have to wear a kind of 'uniform' by day but there is a more dressy meal on Tuesday night. I still haven't decided what to wear. I'm actually coming back early from the championship, after my input is finished, because I am needed to play golf for my handicap division for my club - we are very short of players. Again, for golf, I will have a 'team uniform'. Then on Thursday, I am playing a friendly golf match - no uniform required. On Friday, I am going to visit my mother for a few days to help her sort out paperwork and her wardrobe. I should be able to return home on Monday next week. So no sewing during that period, though when I visit my mum I might manage a trip to a fabric shop.

The weather is much warmer now, and I'm busy looking out some suitable more summery clothes and sandals. My wardrobe really needs a complete overhaul! I have resolved that if I take something out, it only goes back in if it fits and looks nice.

Today, David took some photos of me in the garden, wearing my latest, and last for a while, version of the PR winter street dress.

These first three are worn with a narrow belt

 

The next few show the dress without a belt.

The waistline of the dress is in the right position. I didn't modify the waistline from my last version as this fabric is much stretchier and I thought, correctly as it turned out, that the bodice would stretch down further. I hadn't anticipated, for some reason, that the dress skirt would hang lower - I think this could be doing with being a little touch shorter though it's okay and I won't change it. The fabric is a much thinner and drapier jersey as well as having more stretch (4-way) and I chose to make this version with half sleeves - basically the pattern sleeve cut off where the sleeve flounce was to be added. I was going to add a contrast plain band to sleeve and neckline, but I found that the shade of blue was just not quite right, even though they are from the same range. I eventually treated the sleeve hem in exactly the same way as the dress hem, by folding up and topstitching with a twin needle.

I should say that I cut out and started the dress at home but serged most of it in my sewing class - my serger is in for repair (hopefully that rather than being condemned!). I hadn't finished it when my class ended but I was allowed to borrow it to finish dress at home. That was nice.

For my previous versions, I attached the band to the neck using the full circle method, then turned to the inside with a hem and finished by stitching in the ditch. This worked out very well and the stitching was invisible. I had a number of problems with this dress neckline. I actually had to re-do the band 3 times. I had to make it longer than originally planned for as the bodice fabric was puckered. Not a good look! I got plenty of practice unpicking! Then, I finished my second version with stitch in a ditch, but the stitches were visible, maybe because I was now using a thread (white) which would contrast against the blue patterns, whereas previous version were in identically matching thread against plain fabric. In addition, there was still a little bit of puckering. My sewing teacher recommends that bands or elastic be cut 1/8" per 4" shorter than fabric they are to be attached to. My band, cut as per patter, was still far short of that. So I unpicked the whole thing and made a new band another little bit longer. That was better. Deepika suggests finishing the neckline with coverstitch or twin needle topstitching. This time, I elected to finish with the twin needle, to match the other hems. It looks fine, but personally I would rather not see my stitches!

I do like this dress now that I have modified it to fit. This floral version is fine for our relatively cool UK summers. Yesterday was around 22 degrees C (72 - 73 deg F). I was playing golf in full sun, in polo shirt and crops; wearing tan lotion.  The warm weather makes my aches and pains a lot less troublesome, long may it continue! Today is a little cooler and more cloudy. Since the photo session, I have continued to wear the dress and feel quite cool and comfortable in it. I have decided that I quite like knit material and will do some more.

I tried to change my photos on PR but something has gone wrong. Oh well.  I'm now going to look out some sandals and summer tops and get my bag packed. Plus I'll lay out my golf stuff for our team match as I'll be in a bit of a hurry when I get back from Hartlepool. I'm staying on Hartlepool Marina, BTW - I haven't seen that before so am looking forward to seeing it.

Two winter street dresses and further serger woes.

I've just returned from taking my overlocker in for a check to see if it is repairable. It'll be away for 7 - 10 days and of course might not be repairable or parts might not be available. The trouble is, the fault is intermittent and they're the worst to sort out. Just before I took it today, I switched it on and it appeared to be working again. I did notice yesterday that even though the display disappeared, the machine continued to work. The tensions etc are not set automatically so the display is really just an aide memoire. Nevertheless, I don't like the occasional crackling coming from it. I'd prefer for it to be repaired and have told them to go ahead if they can and it's less than a certain amount. However, I did have a look at new machines while I was at the dealer. I rather fancy the Pfaff Coverlock 4.0! The dealer, who isn't an elna agent, did comment that my machine was high quality so I certainly don't want to wish it away!

I managed to finish serging the side seams of my winter dress before I felt I had to give up with my overlocker. The dresses are finished by hemming with a double needle on the regular sewing machine. So that's two winter dresses finished  in the last two days! They are very quick to run up - even for me!

First, my middle daughter's. She wanted the maroon fabric which is why I used it for a muslin for myself - I wanted to find out how it behaved and to make sure I could follow the steps. I hadn't previously sewn a stretch dress or added neckband in the way recommended. The biggest problem is that the front waist in particular was much too low for me despite having lowered it by 2.5 inches - I hadn't lowered more than that as I wasn't sure if the knit was going to stretch down. It didn't seem to. So DD2 is fairly tall 5' 9" and rather pear shaped. I decided to redraw pattern with my measurements but used it first cut to the same lengths for her - though in a smaller size, a medium rather than the XL for me.

I didn't run into any problems making it for her. She requested that I keep the sleeves very long as that is how she likes earing them. I ended up cutting 4.5 inches off the hem as she said is was way too long for her out of the packet. well, some of that extra length came from the lowered waistband, of course. Anyway, I had shortened pattern but then had to cut a further amount off after the fabric was cut out and I was able to try it on her (neck and shoulders done at this point). This removed the pegging from the bottom of the skirt and that, combined with the waist being taken in, made it rather more of an A-line/straight shape.

She likes it, though, and went back to university wearing it today. Her exams start tomorrow. I think the skirt needed to be a size bigger. She doesn't want me to make her anything else until she loses a bit of weight she's put on recently. She has chosen the thing she wants me to make next, though.

 

By the time I got to my dress, I was feeling quietly confident. This is the first time I've remade a pattern and I think the process has been very helpful. Following advice, I bought a Fiskar's trimmer and this made such easy work of trimming the pattern pieces. I thought my French blue fabric was the same as the maroon - it cam from the same source. However, it handled quite differently. he first thing I noticed was that the selvedge was all over the place. I don't think the recovery is as good as the maroon. There was no vertical stretch. I had some problem with the neckband, thinking it was too loose, but after relaxing and pressing, it is actually fine. my main problem came when I accidentally sewed the back on the wrong way, outside in, so I had to unpick and re-sew. By this time, I was getting more proficient in the use of clear elastic, so the waistline is nicer than either of the other two. However, I had run out of clear elastic (I ordered some mail order and got it today but can't find locally) and definitely had to re-use the elastic I had already sewn over. That, together with the narrower elastic I was able to find locally allowed me to finish the dress. So no real problems, though my serger playing up didn't help the process!

 

 

 

 

Anyway, I love the dress. I was thinking that the front waistband was still a little too high as it goes above a belt. However, I actually prefer the dress without a belt and it lies correctly then. I've had it on all day since DH took photographs this morning - and even ventured out in it! This is a first - me actually wearing one of my garments (I've fulfilled my secret Me Made May pledge - to wear one garment outdoors in May!) I find it very comfortable and think it will be a very useful part of my wardrobe.

However, this is a winter street dress - and today was a very hot day, so this is perhaps not ideal. I will make one in floral with shorter sleeves. I won't be doing much sewing until my serger issue is resolved, though, unless I do it at class tomorrow, which could be a possibility. Otherwise, I plan to concentrate on making basic fitting garments, where I certainly don't need a serger. I'm away for the whole of next week, so my time for sewing is a bit limited, anyway.

Best wishes
Anne