This past week
|
Original |
|
Green toile |
After finding the back of the dress was so very distorted, I cut a new
back skirt piece. This time on single fabric. Very carefully. I measured
as well as I could to ensure the fabric was on grain. The fabric was lying
smooth and square. The result was much better.
I decided to attach the pockets to the front before around up the side
dreams of the skirt part, as far as I felt reasonable to allow space for the
side seams. The dress remained attached above the waistline.
As far as could see, there were two ways to attach the pocket.
- The first was to sew the
pocket from the inside so that the joining seam was exactly on the fold.
Then edge stitch. Rory advised me this was difficult. I can see that. She
had a name for this but I can't remember what it was, I'm afraid.
- I therefore chose the second
way, which was my plan in any case, which was to tack the pockets through
the two layers including the dream allowance, to the dress and attach by
edge stitching.
First, I carefully marked the pocket positions. It would have been so
much better to have done all the markings on the flat, while cutting out. This
took quite a while. I did, incidentally, do something I wasn't going to and
checked comparative lengths on the rest of the dress - no significant issue. I
stitched the pockets to within a few cms of the side seams. This was easier
than I had anticipated
I then attached the new skirt to the bodice and was pleased to see that
the lie of the dress was much improved.
The next step was to attach the band to the back of the dress, again to
within a few cms of the side seams. This I achieved without too many issues.
Then, I sewed the side seams. After that I attached the waist
Not so with the pockets, I'm afraid. I'll cut through hours of sewing,
unpicking and redoing to say that I eventually got them sewn
semi-satisfactorily. I have made notes for the real dress. I was disappointed
that the top of the pocket was so gappy and tried to fix that by tightening the
top which made everything worse as the dress didn't lie properly. So I had to
redo. At this stage I realised that it was better to have the pocket attached
through the gusset to the dress. That doesn't make sense - I mean I lined up
the top of the pocket with the stitching to the dress and tacked; after all,
this gusset is the equivalent of the edge on a box cushion. Then I was able to
stitch where it should be.
However, when I came to do the pocket flaps, I found that one pocket
edge had stretched by a fair bit, even though it is interfaced. I should say
that the pockets started off identical - I checked. As I write here just before
I go to bed, I'm not sure what to do. I don't think I can rectify it. At
least I fully understand the need for comprehensive marking on the silk dress -
and much less handling than this one has had. David had to remind me
again that this is a toile - if wearable, fine, but its main purpose is to
allow me to practice new techniques so get it finished and move on. He's right,
I realise. I will finish and send to Helen and she can do what she wants with
it. I have learned a few lessons and if course this fabric was never going to
look like the original dress.
When I was making Helen's wedding dress, I made toile after toile but as
Rory said, and has repeated, is had so much practice that sewing up the dress
would be a breeze (it wasn't!) and the same holds true here.
If Helen was willing to have the pocket on the front only, that is so that
it doesn't cross the side seam, that would make it a lot easier for me. If
she's not willing, at least I have a much clearer idea of what to do and in
what order. I managed the band okay which does cross but a band is much easier
than a gusseted pocket. The need for interfacing the pocket edge is clear - I
did interface but it has still stretched so I need to modify that. Silk is
slippy but it's much less bulky than this polyester crepe, so the issues I've
had because of bulk should be negated.
Sure, I'm disappointed that this won't be a wearable dress but I have
learned a lot. I'm not saying I won't make more mistakes because obviously I
will but I feel much more confident going forward to tackle the real dress.
So tomorrow, I'll do what I can with the flaps, which should also have
been sewn on the flat as much as possible I now realise, make and insert the
tie and hem. That's all that's left. Oh, not forgetting the poppets! Hopefully
post Monday.
Saturday
I decided to accept the pockets as they are (TBH if I'd done
anything else David would have had something to say about it!) even though I
think I can see how to improve the poorer pocket without toooo much effort.
Obviously I'd do this on the real thing but not here.
I finished off all my ends. I pinned and basted the pocket flaps in
place. Again, I realised this should have been marked from the pattern. The
poor pocket side is sewn slightly too wide leading to asymmetry and the flap on
this side was too short. However, I went with the flaps.
Because of the distortion, the pocket is lying too low on one side, the
stretched, right side. The bottom of the pocket is supposed to be parallel to
the grain of the fabric, but it isn't. That could have been fixed - and will be
in the final version.
I measured the dress length from the floor and trimmed a little off the
front only. I then pinned up a narrow hem, the edges overlocked, and top
stitched. The dress has been on Missy for a couple of days. The completed toile
is about 1.5 inches longer than the original. That should be fine as Helen
wanted it the length of the hem I had originally allowed longer - I think it
was about 1.25"
I then made the tie. Bias cut, folded, quarter inch seam, turned through,
pressed. Then I inserted it into the channel. This went fine and I think my length
is just about perfect.
Overnight tonight, the toile is therefore completed except for the
poppet fasteners. I didn't have a choice when I went shopping for them and
these aren't what Helen wants but again, practice. Tomorrow David will help me
put them in.
Sunday
David helped me put the poppets in today. We found it pretty difficult
with the little tool supplied. To get roughly the right size on the surface, I bought
10mm jersey fasteners, which cut through the fabric with little prongs. Maybe in
jersey, it can just push the fabric aside. These are a little bigger than the
ones on Helen's dress and we don't think they'd be suitable for silk (tbh, I
don't think this style is suitable for silk but that's another story!) as it
would tear the silk. The original poppets are a little different but I'm not
sure where to get them or what kind of tool to use. I had a look online and haven't
come u with anything suitable as yet.
It's not a suitable fabric but the dress looks much the same as the
original at least as much as it could
Lessons
learned/ things I need to do before next time
· Mark pattern
· Make sure all marks are in place when cutting out before removing
pattern
· Cut out on single layer
· I thought my tension was okay but looking at the dress now, I feel
it was probably too tight. Test and check tension.
· I will adjust the paper pattern before using it again. Full piece
for the front (I've already done the full piece for the skirt). Draw on pocket
and flap position. When making up the toile, I found that the seam
allowances on the back bodice didn't want to lie the way I had intended. The
armhole ended up needing trimmed as there was a slight bulge at one part. I
need to true this area to account for the changes.
· First though, I need to get feedback from Helen. I've sent
her a photo and video view on Whatsapp but I think she's away for the weekend.
Edited to add (Friday) - Helen thinks the dress is fabulous and is wearing it today! Woo hoo! She sent me a photo she took on her phone via Whatsapp. I need to work out what I can do with that.
I have lost another 2 lbs this week - 8 lbs in all. It's more difficult this week as Joanne is visiting for a few days.