PR Winter Street Dress - version 3 for me. My first wadder of 2018

Background

A while back, nearer the start of my sewing adventure, I made some Winter Street Dresses (pattern from Pattern Review.com) - for me and for my daughter. I made all of the dresses in a short time scale as Pattern Review was running a competition to make this dress to celebrate the launch of their in-house pattern range. Looking back at my PR reviews, this was in May 2014. Here is the link to the review of the blue dress - and from that, links to the others.

Description of pattern:

"Just like it's cousin - Summer Street Dress, Winter Street Dress is an easy to sew knit dress with a waist seam and a narrow pleated skirt. The narrow skirt with inverted box pleats has just the right amount of ease where you need it, resulting in a very comfortable and cute tulip shape. The bodice is drafted for a "C" cup. There is a choice of elbow length flounce sleeves or a full length sleeve. You can even make it without sleeves. The skirt is designed to fall above the knee for a more trendy look but it is super easy to lengthen or shorten it. 

From Winter to Spring to Summer, this is a perfect transition dress! 

Fabric suggestions - A variety of knit fabrics will work here but we recommend medium weight knits for a more structured look. The pattern will work for lighter weight knits like rayon jersey as well. We do recommend lining the skirt if you are using lightweight knits." (From PR website)

I made a dress from very stretchy fabric - review here and photo below this - it stretched lengthwise a lot and the dress got longer and longer and the waist lower and lower! I tried to fix it by taking up a large chunk at the waist from both bodice and skirt but I accidentally created a hole in the fabric when I was unpicking. The fabric was so difficult to use. That was the least of its problems. It got jettisoned. 

Without belt

With belt

Because of the stretchiness of the fabric, it appeared to fit better around my bust than my remaining blue version, which is the only one of mine which remains (Joanne still has hers, I think - that's in a wine colour which is rather nice - review here). 

My burgundy one was my first and never fitted well so was given away. (I still have some of the fabric so might make a top to go under the kimono; I think it's in the correct colour palette)

I only wore the remaining one a couple of times, really, as I didn't feel quite right in it partly because it felt a bit tight. Also, I felt the folds at the back of the skirt just didn't lie nicely, which I put down to it being a bit tight. I liked the fabric and the colour (blue) though so it was kept in case I got slim enough to wear it. 

Even in this one, at the making stage, you can see that the inverted pleats don't lie nicely.
I didn't realise it was this bad even then!

I had some fabric from the same range in my stash. This wasn't in a colour or shade I liked so much but it's a colour that has been suggested that I should wear (petrol blue, I think, though I saw it as green and I see it as a bit dull and sludgy - you can tell I don't like it!).  I decided I'd make another Winter Street Dress, since I originally made a lot of changes to the pattern and I still had the printed pattern (it was a PDF pattern), though now I'd have to go up a size.

Wednesday - 10 January, First sewing bee of the year

I took the blue dress to sewing class and tried it on. Rory agreed that I needed a bigger size for my hips. However, she felt the dress was going up a lot at the back - by that I mean the back of the skirt was substantially shorter -  and directed me to add quite substantially to the back waist at the centre (8.5 cms!), tapering out towards the sides. I also had to add to the sides back and front, but not to the centre front. The pattern is designed to be cut with back and front identical and on the fold. After the alterations to the pattern, I now had separate back and front pieces. I made the tucks as suggested. Only then did I realise that of course I had cut out the bodice, which at the time I thought fitted me, to the original size - it would have been better to go up a size, I now feel. This meant that I had about 2 cms extra fabric at each side of the skirt.

Showing extension to back height

Close up view of front at the front and back under that.

At Home

I didn't follow the directions given on the pattern as I was now going to have to modify the skirt portion. The directions put the sleeves in flat and the finishing touch is to sew up each side and sleeves. However, I made up the bodice, using stabiliser in the shoulder area - this was the first time I have manged to insert tape properly using my overlocker. I set the sleeves - no problems. I finished all raw edges by overlocking. Actually, for the first time ever, I used the 4 stitch overlock stitch and made up the bodice on the overlocker, though I machine tacked first. I think this has worked well and the inside looks neater, more finished than my last version, which has some unfinished seam edges. I added the neckband also in the round - doubling neckband, in the round, quartering, attaching to right side of fabric, testing fit, then folding to the back and planned to do decorative zigzag stitching or cover stitching to hold the seam allowances down. I didn't follow this method previously. I think I followed the PR instructions, which were good and Deepika had an online tutorial covering neckband insertion.

My previous neckline seam attachment is concealed and I finished the neckline by stitching in the ditch.  Last time around, the neckband was attached unfolded, to the right side of the fabric, folded over to the wrong side, the seam edge turned under and secured by stitching in the ditch from the right side. They look completely different, much to my surprise. However, this method looks fine. I don't have a cover stitch machine so planned to use a zigzag stitch to hold down the seam allowances inside the neckline but Rory didn't feel I needed anything other than tacking the overlocking to the seam allowance at the shoulder - we'll see if that works. I didn't  have enough of a suitable shade of thread to do the neckline, the sleeve hems or the skirt hem, in any case.

After my bodice was finished, I machine basted the skirt front and back together at the sides. As the skirt waistband is wider than the bodice waistband, I used an extra tuck in the skirt and basted the skirt to the bodice, ready to see what see what Rory would suggest.

Wednesday - 17 January. Second sewing bee.

I tried on the dress for Rory to look at the waistline area. There were a few changes made - by pinning in place after releasing the stitching - taking a bit off the centre back skirt and a small bit off the centre front bodice. Rory suggested I should have taken a wider tuck rather than the extra small pleat but I did what I did because I had already done it if you see what I mean! I knew the stitching would be coming out.

I tacked together to test out the new settings - I thread traced where the pins had been to give me an idea for matching the bodice and the skirt as of course, the seam allowances were no longer the same size.

Rory thought the waistline looked much better. She felt I needed even more width at the back but too late for that. Then she thought it was simply the fabric being caught up on my trousers, which I was still wearing. She said the side seams were running straight.

As I was measuring up the alterations for the two sides (Rory marked only one side, front and back), I realised that my skirt was decidedly lopsided! This must be the result of my poor cutting out as it had not yet been physically altered. I showed my finding to Rory who said we would need to even up the hem from the floor.

At home - Thursday 18 January

I stayed at home rather than going to my sewing with Lyn. There were two reasons for this. First, the roads were snowy and icy - and if you don't need to go out, why do it? Second, I do find it awkward to be doing the same garment in two different places with, potentially, three different tutors. So I didn't want to take this dress, and didn't have another project ready. Well, I do have my Chanel jacket but I'll finish that at home. I don't want to start yet another until these are out of the way - I have enough UFOs as it is.

I overlocked both side seams of the skirt. As Rory felt that the skirt could still do with a little room, I simply ran the knife down the edge, so making the seam allowance as small as possible. While pressing it, I found the unevenness of hem again - see photo - this is clearly bad cutting out, sadly.

This doesn't look too bad - but in reality it was much worse

this is the kind of difference in length I was faced with 

I then attached the skirt to the bodice by pinning along the marked seam lines. I put the folds back in but found it incredibly difficult to get them even - I guess this is because my cutting was a bit off. I did my best and tried the skirt on - and got David to mark the shortest point of the skirt. I wore small heels, as I would with this dress and he measured from the floor.

I was going to go on and finally overlock the waistline seam, in which clear elastic is used for stabilisation - but I really don't like how the pleats are lying. I'm heavier than I've been for a while (David also thought the top was a little tight; I agree) so I thought that perhaps when I'd lost a stone or so, the dress would lie better.

At that stage I planned to take the dress to class (Third Wednesday - 25th January) and see if Rory might suggest a better position for the pleats. I hadn't done any top stitching with twin needle as yet as I still didn't have the correct thread colour. I decided to put it aside.

Friday 19th January

I bought the thread. It's a reasonable match. Later in the day, I became quite unwell with a sudden acute UTI, so I didn't do any sewing.

Saturday 20 January

I'm feeling unwell but not the kind of that needs bed rest so decided to take it easy and just think about and look at some of my projects and write this blog post. No actual sewing or having photos taken. 

I reassessed the dress. No, it's not going to work. I don't have photos of the dress to show you and feel too unwell even to think of having some taken. Look at the blue one - this one is tighter and the back inverted pleats much worse. When I looked at the earlier photos, the dress didn't appear to rise at the back - same dress as Rory said to add 8.5 cms to - so this must be due to weight gain. You can guess where the bulk of my weight gain goes!

This is going to be my first wadder of 2018, I fear.

The waistline inverted pleats don't work for me. I am too hippy - as a pear shaped person, my hips are relatively bigger than my waist. I have quite a high hip. The dress fits at the waist, but the pleats on the skirt are pulled apart too quickly and as a result are distorted. They serve to emphasise my large hips rather than just provide the needed space for them. David put it well when he said they point like arrows towards the biggest part of my hips. This was said in a constructive way. And NO!  - I'm not showing a photo of the offending area!

I wondered how I could change this.

• Perhaps just gathering instead of pleats? I'm not a fan of gathering.
• Altering my shape ie losing weight, which I want to do, anyway. However, I am sewing clothes for how I am now so that's not an option for this dress and the blue dress had problems with the pleats even when I was lighter.
• Not continuing with it. This style is not flattering and the colour is not my best. David found it unflattering - style, type of fabric and colour

I certainly wouldn't buy it. So I'm not prepared to put a lot of effort into making something I wouldn't buy and won't wear. You might think there isn't a great deal left to do in this dress so I should finish it but I can use that time for something ultimately more useful.

David has suggested the FLF system for assessing my sewing:

• F - Fit. It must fit well
• L - Like. I should like everything I try to make for myself.
• F - Flattering - even when it's ‘only’ a functional garment.

I like that.

This dress fails all 3 of these criteria.

• F - it doesn't fit. The bodice and sleeves feel tight. The least said about the skirt, the better!
• L - I don't like it. This is a combination of fit, fabric, style and colour
• F - it isn't flattering. This includes the style of the dress - even if it fitted, it wouldn't flatter as the style is just not for me

So - it's official - it's a wadder. I feel quite happy with that decision as I knew I'd never wear it. I wore its predecessor a few times but never felt comfortable in it - and I liked its colour much more. I realise now that it wasn't just being tight through weight gain that was the issue. I just don't like the style. I recall that at the time, I was less than positive about the pattern, at least for my first version - but I tempered my prose as it was a contest. This was my first review:

"This style is not for me. I needed to make too many alterations to the bodice to try to make it fit at my waistline and I therefore presumably lost the originally intended design, though even more changes are required. I have gone ahead and made further alterations to the pattern, with a view to trying again - in the process correcting my faulty drafting of the side seams on the bodice, and turning the wedge at the back into a straight increase to avoid the dress being too high in the centre, which meant that the skirt didn't lie properly. I have also made the sleeves bigger for next time as these were very tight on me at the biceps; I also plan to drop the armscye slightly. My problems were worsened as I washed the dress again after construction to see if that would relax it, as I thought some of my manipulations might have stretched it out of shape (I got it stuck in my sewing machine! More than once.) but I feel there was further shrinkage as the sleeves at the biceps became much tighter than they had been prior to that. 

I do plan to make it for my middle daughter, who fits more clearly into the target demographic group, I feel or perhaps the one I made can be modified to fit her! She is happy with raised waists, short skirts and pull on knit dresses. Mine would be too big, though, I reckon I would need to sew a medium for her but perhaps mine has shrunk to a medium and I would just need to shorten skirt and sleeves. Nice thought!
I can recommend it to others as it is easy to sew, looks easy to wear and looks good on the pattern testers." Overall - 'Pattern okay but did not work for me'

Last of my sewing for a week; last winter street dress for a while (now remodelled for summer!)

It's Sunday today and I'm busy trying to get things ready to go to a 4 day golf championship tomorrow in a Hartlepool. I'm not playing golf - I'm there because of my committee role in my local Northumberland County. I basically have to wear a kind of 'uniform' by day but there is a more dressy meal on Tuesday night. I still haven't decided what to wear. I'm actually coming back early from the championship, after my input is finished, because I am needed to play golf for my handicap division for my club - we are very short of players. Again, for golf, I will have a 'team uniform'. Then on Thursday, I am playing a friendly golf match - no uniform required. On Friday, I am going to visit my mother for a few days to help her sort out paperwork and her wardrobe. I should be able to return home on Monday next week. So no sewing during that period, though when I visit my mum I might manage a trip to a fabric shop.

The weather is much warmer now, and I'm busy looking out some suitable more summery clothes and sandals. My wardrobe really needs a complete overhaul! I have resolved that if I take something out, it only goes back in if it fits and looks nice.

Today, David took some photos of me in the garden, wearing my latest, and last for a while, version of the PR winter street dress.

These first three are worn with a narrow belt

 

The next few show the dress without a belt.

The waistline of the dress is in the right position. I didn't modify the waistline from my last version as this fabric is much stretchier and I thought, correctly as it turned out, that the bodice would stretch down further. I hadn't anticipated, for some reason, that the dress skirt would hang lower - I think this could be doing with being a little touch shorter though it's okay and I won't change it. The fabric is a much thinner and drapier jersey as well as having more stretch (4-way) and I chose to make this version with half sleeves - basically the pattern sleeve cut off where the sleeve flounce was to be added. I was going to add a contrast plain band to sleeve and neckline, but I found that the shade of blue was just not quite right, even though they are from the same range. I eventually treated the sleeve hem in exactly the same way as the dress hem, by folding up and topstitching with a twin needle.

I should say that I cut out and started the dress at home but serged most of it in my sewing class - my serger is in for repair (hopefully that rather than being condemned!). I hadn't finished it when my class ended but I was allowed to borrow it to finish dress at home. That was nice.

For my previous versions, I attached the band to the neck using the full circle method, then turned to the inside with a hem and finished by stitching in the ditch. This worked out very well and the stitching was invisible. I had a number of problems with this dress neckline. I actually had to re-do the band 3 times. I had to make it longer than originally planned for as the bodice fabric was puckered. Not a good look! I got plenty of practice unpicking! Then, I finished my second version with stitch in a ditch, but the stitches were visible, maybe because I was now using a thread (white) which would contrast against the blue patterns, whereas previous version were in identically matching thread against plain fabric. In addition, there was still a little bit of puckering. My sewing teacher recommends that bands or elastic be cut 1/8" per 4" shorter than fabric they are to be attached to. My band, cut as per patter, was still far short of that. So I unpicked the whole thing and made a new band another little bit longer. That was better. Deepika suggests finishing the neckline with coverstitch or twin needle topstitching. This time, I elected to finish with the twin needle, to match the other hems. It looks fine, but personally I would rather not see my stitches!

I do like this dress now that I have modified it to fit. This floral version is fine for our relatively cool UK summers. Yesterday was around 22 degrees C (72 - 73 deg F). I was playing golf in full sun, in polo shirt and crops; wearing tan lotion.  The warm weather makes my aches and pains a lot less troublesome, long may it continue! Today is a little cooler and more cloudy. Since the photo session, I have continued to wear the dress and feel quite cool and comfortable in it. I have decided that I quite like knit material and will do some more.

I tried to change my photos on PR but something has gone wrong. Oh well.  I'm now going to look out some sandals and summer tops and get my bag packed. Plus I'll lay out my golf stuff for our team match as I'll be in a bit of a hurry when I get back from Hartlepool. I'm staying on Hartlepool Marina, BTW - I haven't seen that before so am looking forward to seeing it.

Two winter street dresses and further serger woes.

I've just returned from taking my overlocker in for a check to see if it is repairable. It'll be away for 7 - 10 days and of course might not be repairable or parts might not be available. The trouble is, the fault is intermittent and they're the worst to sort out. Just before I took it today, I switched it on and it appeared to be working again. I did notice yesterday that even though the display disappeared, the machine continued to work. The tensions etc are not set automatically so the display is really just an aide memoire. Nevertheless, I don't like the occasional crackling coming from it. I'd prefer for it to be repaired and have told them to go ahead if they can and it's less than a certain amount. However, I did have a look at new machines while I was at the dealer. I rather fancy the Pfaff Coverlock 4.0! The dealer, who isn't an elna agent, did comment that my machine was high quality so I certainly don't want to wish it away!

I managed to finish serging the side seams of my winter dress before I felt I had to give up with my overlocker. The dresses are finished by hemming with a double needle on the regular sewing machine. So that's two winter dresses finished  in the last two days! They are very quick to run up - even for me!

First, my middle daughter's. She wanted the maroon fabric which is why I used it for a muslin for myself - I wanted to find out how it behaved and to make sure I could follow the steps. I hadn't previously sewn a stretch dress or added neckband in the way recommended. The biggest problem is that the front waist in particular was much too low for me despite having lowered it by 2.5 inches - I hadn't lowered more than that as I wasn't sure if the knit was going to stretch down. It didn't seem to. So DD2 is fairly tall 5' 9" and rather pear shaped. I decided to redraw pattern with my measurements but used it first cut to the same lengths for her - though in a smaller size, a medium rather than the XL for me.

I didn't run into any problems making it for her. She requested that I keep the sleeves very long as that is how she likes earing them. I ended up cutting 4.5 inches off the hem as she said is was way too long for her out of the packet. well, some of that extra length came from the lowered waistband, of course. Anyway, I had shortened pattern but then had to cut a further amount off after the fabric was cut out and I was able to try it on her (neck and shoulders done at this point). This removed the pegging from the bottom of the skirt and that, combined with the waist being taken in, made it rather more of an A-line/straight shape.

She likes it, though, and went back to university wearing it today. Her exams start tomorrow. I think the skirt needed to be a size bigger. She doesn't want me to make her anything else until she loses a bit of weight she's put on recently. She has chosen the thing she wants me to make next, though.

 

By the time I got to my dress, I was feeling quietly confident. This is the first time I've remade a pattern and I think the process has been very helpful. Following advice, I bought a Fiskar's trimmer and this made such easy work of trimming the pattern pieces. I thought my French blue fabric was the same as the maroon - it cam from the same source. However, it handled quite differently. he first thing I noticed was that the selvedge was all over the place. I don't think the recovery is as good as the maroon. There was no vertical stretch. I had some problem with the neckband, thinking it was too loose, but after relaxing and pressing, it is actually fine. my main problem came when I accidentally sewed the back on the wrong way, outside in, so I had to unpick and re-sew. By this time, I was getting more proficient in the use of clear elastic, so the waistline is nicer than either of the other two. However, I had run out of clear elastic (I ordered some mail order and got it today but can't find locally) and definitely had to re-use the elastic I had already sewn over. That, together with the narrower elastic I was able to find locally allowed me to finish the dress. So no real problems, though my serger playing up didn't help the process!

 

 

 

 

Anyway, I love the dress. I was thinking that the front waistband was still a little too high as it goes above a belt. However, I actually prefer the dress without a belt and it lies correctly then. I've had it on all day since DH took photographs this morning - and even ventured out in it! This is a first - me actually wearing one of my garments (I've fulfilled my secret Me Made May pledge - to wear one garment outdoors in May!) I find it very comfortable and think it will be a very useful part of my wardrobe.

However, this is a winter street dress - and today was a very hot day, so this is perhaps not ideal. I will make one in floral with shorter sleeves. I won't be doing much sewing until my serger issue is resolved, though, unless I do it at class tomorrow, which could be a possibility. Otherwise, I plan to concentrate on making basic fitting garments, where I certainly don't need a serger. I'm away for the whole of next week, so my time for sewing is a bit limited, anyway.

Best wishes
Anne

 

Finished burda check jacket and good news about serger; daughter's winter street dress

This morning, I photographed my finished burda check jacket to go with the dress I previously reviewed here.

 

I managed to get into the garden and DH took the photographs. I didn't get all the photos taken I wanted as not much later, we had huge hailstones and torrential rain, so I was lucky. It was nearly 7pm when I started to write this and the weather was lovely again.  The forecast for the next few days is rain, though. Yesterday, the golf course was closed due to the rain we've had so we didn't get to play our competition.

 

 

My checks are matched perfectly! The headache was worth it! At the front, the jacket slopes down, which is why the hem isn't straight along a line of checks; it's straight at the back and the side seams are perfect - even the interfacing is perfectly aligned. I thought we had a photo of that - but I confess that I had the dress on back to front in the first photos and had to change!! I'll need a label on the back - though the front has bust darts so it should have been obvious. I was in a bit of a hurry to get it done before the rain started again. That's my excuse!

 

I think the jacket looks a little large. It doesn't have fastenings. When pulled together, the size is okay and the shoulder seams are in the right place, but when left loose, it falls off my shoulders a bit and looks big. What do you think? Should I add a fastening? The sleeves appear to rotate forward. I don't know how to fix this. I didn't overlock the seam edges of the armscye as I couldn't at the time but as I used an additional row of twin needle stitching, it will be difficult to get out - and I trimmed it, too, so I don't know if I can still fix it. Any ideas or suggestions? Although I lengthened the jacket pattern by the same amount as I lengthened the dress - to keep the proportion, I felt that the jacket was too long and took off about an inch. I also had to shorten the sleeves about the same amount. I had previously lengthened the pattern, but obviously overdid it.

 

I posted yesterday about the demise of my overlocker. I was premature in reaching this conclusion! DH fixed it today - or at least it's working again after he had a look at it. Maybe it was going to be okay anyway. In the meantime I had been looking at reviews for overlockers and coverlockers. My serger is 5 thread but those aren't common now, unless they're convertible to coverstitch. I don't know if I need a coverstitch facility as twin needle seems fine for me. So do I need 5 threads on an overlocker, really? I do sew a lot of wovens and the 5 thread is good for those seams, but they're not, after all, necessary. I'm starting to sew with knits and 5 threads are not needed for those. I'm glad I don't have to chose just yet. Any advice would be welcome.

 

I finished the Pattern review winter street dress for my middle daughter. I downloaded and cut out the pattern again. I had modified the previous download for me and had already re-altered and further lengthened the torso on the pattern (L/XL) I had cut out for me so that was no use. This time I  used a trimmer which was great and made the whole process so much faster. And I didn't need to piece together all 25 pages as the pieces are more or less delineated from each other. That helped speed up the process - basically, I knew what I was doing this time!  My daughter need a 2 inch lengthening of front and back bodice. Size medium. Once the fabric was cut out, the rest was speedy. I had finished the seam edges using my sewing machine when I thought my overlocker was dead but they didn't look great. I was able to finish quickly with the overlocker today. Then I folded over the hem and finished with a twin needle. I had to cut off another few inches from the length to make my daughter happy - after it was cut out. So instead of being a 'pegged' skirt, it's more of a slight A-line as I also took in further at the waist. The waist looks better than in my version. The skirt length is about 19 inches. She still hasn't tried it on since I finished it so I don't know if it fits. She has reluctantly promised me a photograph. Once I get one (I'm not holding my breath!) I'll post. I used the maroon fabric for mine as that was what she chose - I wanted to see how it behaved - mine was intended as a hopefully wearable muslin. I also have lovely blue fabric and a floral but she stuck to the maroon. When I get around to re-doing the dress for me, I might choose the floral - not sure yet.

Finished winter street dress and refocusing my goals

This last week I finished Pattern Review's Winter Street Dress. This was my first completed garment from a downloadable pattern and my first knit dress. I took the opportunity of watching Deepika's video on attaching the neckband and of her tips on using clear elastic, which I had never used. I had to buy this mail order as none of my local suppliers had it. One had tape which was much narrower and I thought it would be more difficult to use, though it would have been fine at a push. I think my neckband turned out really well. I finished it with stitch in the ditch and you cant see my stitches at all.

I have done a review on Pattern Review of my dress - and have received a comment from Deepika. In my review I mentioned that the front seam joining the bodice and skirt was wavy and she suggests this was due to fabric being stretched and next time to stretch out elastic and make it a tiny touch smaller than seam. I also said I was scared to press and she said there was no problem with a pressing cloth and thought it would lie straight. This is very helpful - as were her tips, which I used. She didn't comment on my implied criticism of the pattern - namely that the pattern was drafted for a high waist when it is stated to be on the natural waistline.  Despite my alterations, the waistline at the front is still too high for me - admittedly I am rather long-waisted. In this picture, you can see the waviness in the waistline I was referring too - the back seam is better, though I'm disappointed to see how badly the pleat is lying. I need to press properly and wear a better foundation garment to take account of the weight I have put on these last few weeks - I tend to eat when I'm stressed.

Some of the problems with the dress are due to my alterations, I'm sure. I didn't have help for these and have probably not done them correctly. I've talked about the alterations I did in the review. When I came to sew up the sides skirt - underarm - sleeve, I found that the sleeve was about 5/8" on each side narrower than my bodice. I'm sure my manipulations to get around this have caused some distortion. In fact, as the sleeve is too tight at that point, I would have preferred to add to the sleeve than take away from the bodice. I think this may be why there are wrinkles there - or maybe I should have done an FBA. I'm not sure.

I've made a number of changes to the pattern and I'm going to try it again. I'm also planning to make it for my middle daughter but need to get some sizes before I attempt that. She is tall, about 5'9", I think, so smaller than me, and her torso may not be as long - I don't think it is. Younger people are quite happy, it seems, with raised waistlines - and shorter skirts. I realise I'm (getting) old!

I had hoped this dress would work for me - and maybe it would if the waistline was dropped further and if my changes to the pattern sort out the too tight armscye. Not uncomfortably tight, just more so than it should be. I feel that I really need to think about what I want to sew.

I'm having a special birthday soon and have requested a sewing course/break. I've found it very difficult to locate such a thing. If I'm travelling, any class/course needs to be on consecutive days as I don't want to be travelling back and forward each week - transport and fuel are too expensive to consider that. I'd really like to get hands-on help to create a set of slopers, but the only thing I've found is over 6 weeks at the other end of the country. I've done some emailing. I have seen one which might work, over 5 days, but it's not structured and that's what I'd really like.

I do have Craftsy classes dealing with fit and also Glenda sparling's Sure Fit Design system. Glenda is really helpful and I did start but then started to lose some weight so each time I fitted, I was a different size! Unfortunately, I've put some of that weight back on but resolve to lose it again before my birthday! I think I'm going to spend a good bit of time on these courses in the coming months.

I started this fit process as I can't get trousers/pants to fit well. I wear trousers a lot. I'm a golfer, and it's now into the new season. I'd like to have cropped trousers to wear, which fit well - golf trousers usually have a fly zip, pockets at each side and one on back and a fixed waistband. I can't really alter the ones I have as they are too short in the back crotch length, even though they are all too big for me now. I have my first important golf match on 21 May, when I wear team uniform - I can make do with what I already have but I would really love to be able to make a pair of black crops for this match. Crops or trousers, doesn't t really matter but crops are more comfortable when it's warmer. 21 May is just too soon, though. I will start on the first stage, though.

For my May Make a Garment a Month Challenge, I am going to make the jacket to go with the grey dress I previously made. I bought some lovely hound's-tooth (houndstooth?) medium weight stable knit fabric, similar to that on the pattern envelope and they should look good together.

I have already made the alterations to the pattern tissue and have made a full back piece to help me with pattern alignment. I've never used a pattern which needed matched before and I'm a bit apprehensive. A double back should help the process, as it's difficult to see the check on the reverse of the fabric. Lyn at class advised me to cut out say back first as this will help with alignment for next pieces. I'm going to wait until I get there before trying this - I need help on hand! It occurs to me that it might be best to cut out another sleeve and another front, too. The pattern doesn't llok complicated - it's all going to be in the check matching and good finishing.

The other major item which I want to sew is a jacket, but my skills need to develop further before I can consider that.

As I mentioned, the golf season has already started. I'm an official to our local County Veteran Ladies' Golf Association and I'm on duty over the next 3 days at a big competition - at least, all of tomorrow and part of both Wednesday and Thursday. I'm supposed to be playing golf on Wednesday but a filling fell out and I have to go to the dentist instead. Over the next few weeks, there are a number of events I have to attend in my official capacity - I'm away from home for 3 days in under 2 weeks and there are other one day events. So I'm not sure how much time I'll get to sew - or to blog about my sewing. Even more reason to realise I won't get those golf crops done by May 21st! It's nice to be out in the fresh air, though, especially with everything so pretty now. My rhododendrons and azelias are nearly over, daffodils are long gone, tulips nearing end and my back lawn is now a sea of pink petals. But there is still loads of colour and it's warm enough to be outside without a winter coat!! And although I still have quite a bit of pain and nerve tingling, I have actually played my first 18 holes of the season without mishap.

I need to sort out a few things for tomorrow. I'm having a very early start so need to get to bed at a reasonable time. It's 9.15pm now, so I'd like to be finished and relaxing in an hour.

Catching up!

I haven't felt much like sewing as I'm tired of fitting problems and we are having visits from each of my three daughters at different times but overlapping over Easter weekend. This means that I need the dining room to eat in! Novel idea! So I decided to put everything away.

However, Thursday 18th was our last dressmaking class for a while. I asked Lyn to have a look at my fitted blouse to see how I could improve the next attempt. I felt that it was too tight at the front of the arm (wasn't sure if that was because I didn't trim it as advised in case Lyn suggested I take it out) and I felt that my reach was restricted so I wondered if I needed more room at the back. Lyn looked at it and felt that perhaps I needed a little extra body at the level of the front of the arm. I also suggested that the blouse was a little too tight and she agreed. Also, as already mentioned, I felt that the bust fullness was slightly too high as I had obviously been wearing a super lift bra the day I measured! I went shopping the other day and I bought a new bra - I had thrown some of my old ones out. This bra lifts me and also makes me seem much bigger, I think. I wore the blouse while I had this bra on - and sure, the fullness was in the right place but the blouse now seemed too tight across the front - more so than previously. So I reckon I actually do need to use a bigger cup size front to the blouse. But for the moment, I am pretty sick of fitting changes.

Last Thursday was actually the last ever dressmaking class in the premises (a Sure Start Centre) which had been in use for many years - although I haven't been going a year, yet. The class is moving to new premises next term. As a result of this move, Lyn was giving away fabric and patterns which she felt there was no room for in new premises (a church hall). Some of the patterns were vintage ones which I would possibly be interested in in years to come when I have gained more experience - they were all one size patterns and a size rather too small for me so the fitting challenges would have been immense! So I didn't take any of those. I did pick up a children's pattern for shorts, skirt, trousers, tee shirt and waistcoat. New Look 6398. My older grandson is 4 and based on his measurements, I have made him a pair of shorts in mid weight denim, size age 6. When he visited, he tried them on and liked them but I tightened the waist elastic and finished off. I can't post a picture as shortly after this, he came down with a bad case of chickenpox and I don't have a photograph - he was already feeling rather tired and poorly.   In my defence, I would like to point out that I have no sons, only daughters, and have no idea of fashion for boys - but even to my eyes, these shorts are very old fashioned and far too short. After cutting them out, instead of a 1.5" hem, I used just a 1/4" hem and hope that Jack will get some use from them.  (Hopefully I will be able to add a photograph later) It was lovely to trace out the pattern, cut out the fabric and sew it up without my interminable fitting issues! As far as fashion is concerned, by the way, my daughter has a pair of neon yellow skinny jeans for her younger son which everyone admires and wondered if I could sew him a pair in lime green!! ...

Pattern Review has a vintage pattern contest on the go, moderated by Nakisha. I'm not going to enter as this is a step too far at this stage in my sewing career. Apart from the shorts, I did pick up a few other patterns. I do have a problem in knowing exactly how old they are. They appear mainly to be patterns sent away for to magazines or newspapers and I can't find any copyright date. One pattern is still in its original posted envelope, however, and that is postmarked November 1959.

 

I tried to search on line but got no further with the dates - although one number came up, it was a much later and different pattern - I know companies recycle the pattern numbers. I looked at pattern wiki but these are all British patterns and I couldn't see any sign of them. I think they are mainly form the same era but the pinafore looks more late sixties, I think.

My middle daughter has a few sewing requests of me and one was a pleated tennis skirt with elasticated waist. I almost considered one of the vintage patterns - but this is for shorts, actually and has a fixed waistband. The size would have been fine for her. I opened out the tissue and was absolutely boggled by the little punched holes and lack of any of the markings I am used to!  There was a single sheet of instructions. These I could have followed. I like that they give finishing details.

 

 

 

I've just returned from a visit to my grandchildren and my youngest daughter's graduation. I've had a really busy month with family visits, daughter's graduation (in Cambridge but we also delivered a piano for her to London, where she lives), grandsons with chickenpox, visits to family and elderly mother and so on. I am writing up my blog tonight - I had started but didn't get as far as posting, and hopefully will get on with sewing from tomorrow.

My sewing buddy and I have decided to sit out this month's sewing buddy challenge.

I'm not going to be able to do the garment I had originally intended for the Make a Garment a Month Challenge - that will be for next month. I thought I'd make my middle daughter the Winter Street Dress from Pattern Review. I don't like the look of the pattern for myself - although it is supposed to sit at the natural waist, it is extremely short and more like an empire waistline. Some but not all reviewers have mentioned this. I decided that if the waistline were in the 'correct' place, that this could be a suitable dress for me to test out using knit fabrics, in a wearable muslin for myself. Then, from what I learn, I will make my daughter one. This daughter is tall but not as tall as I am, and being rather younger, wears her skirts considerably shorter!

So, I am planning to sew the Winter Street Dress for me, using maroon stretch fabric (I don't know what the fabric composition is)

I have downloaded the pattern, printed it out and modified it. I have added quite considerably to the front bodice length, less so to the sides and very little to the back bodice. I have lengthened skirt. Arms are the same length as original pattern - I am doing the full length version. The above shows the fabric already cut out. I hope to get it sewn over the next few days as all the hard work is already done - at least I hope so! I didn't do a FBA so hope that will be okay - the pattern is made for a C cup.

Although I have downloaded a pattern previously, and printed it out, I have not previously put the pieces together and have never sewn from one. A knit dress, with a slightly stretchy fabric, is also a new area. I did a knit fabric dress previously but that was a stable knit with little or no stretch to it. You never know, rather than being a kind of muslin, I may well get a wearable dress out of this.

Wish me luck!

Anne