Entering the Simplicity Sewing Challenge - Part 1

As usual, time has run away with me. I was watching the Olympics and I had to finish both Joanne's culottes and Jack's shirt for their birthdays in the middle of August (didn't manage to finish either in time!).  Then I was going away for a few days,  camping, then helping my mother move. So a very busy time.

I saw this Simplicity Sewing Challenge advertised and decided I'd do it as I liked the dress. My sewjo hadn't returned and this seemed like a bit of a challenge, complete with deadline,  but for something I'd wear, to spur me into activity.

I thought I had until the end of September for this challenge but noticed tonight (Monday 22nd August),  to my horror, when I was showing the info to Dan, that the poster said end of August. I emailed Simplicity for clarification when I got home. Simplicity responded quickly and I had a satisfactory reply at breakfast time next morning. The deadline was extended to 30th September. Thank goodness! I simply wouldn't have been able to finish by the end of August.

We cancelled the camping trip as neither David nor I were very well which gave me a few days to sew.  I hoped that would be enough time for my challenge (and finishing Jack's shirt!). I planned out how I might achieve this and although I now have a month, I think I'll follow the same plan. Over a longer period of time, allowing some golf, housework etc too!

So my challenge is Simplicity 1458,  an Amazing Fit seamed princess shift dress. I like this dress as I think I will suit the style.  

This is the envelope for the smaller size range

I do like the ines

It's similar to McCall's 6028, which I like a lot,

I loved the look of this

Great lines

I entered this into PR's Little White Dress contest. 3 stylings - daytime here

This is more of an evening look

Dress in the unadorned state

and to the Mother of the bride dress that I didn't get around to making!. The princess seams allow a lot of flexibility in fitting. I can add extra space just where my derriere needs it! I certainly needed to add in this area on my most recent toile when I was trying to modify the MOB dress. On the other hand, this dress has A-line flares below the hip line so I may not need to adjust as much as I do with a sheath dress.

Those of you who know my blog will know that I am tall, a plus sized pear shape, a bit of a perfectionist and usually make multiple toiles. I don't have time for that. So I plan to follow the Amazing Fit pattern method more closely than usual! But not to the letter.

I chose the larger size range (20W-28W)as I thought this might mean that fewer pattern adjustments are needed, although I fit into the top of the smaller size range,  too. I note that the larger size range has a longer back length but I'm not sure about bust apex position. Standard cup size in the smaller size range is B but it seems to be C in the larger range. The pattern has cup sizes, so that's a bonus. I'm hoping starting with a size 20 won't be too big at the upper bust area. When you read some suggestions regarding sizing by upper bust measurement, my size would be 18. On the other hand, I am 'big boned' and 5'11" so the larger size might be ok.

Plan:

• Cut out tissue based on my high bust measurement (or size 20) but using multi size to accommodate my larger hips.
• Use pattern recommendations to choose bust cup size (the pattern is multi sized)
• Use pattern recommendations to choose curvy or average for hips (certainly not slim!)
• Pin tissue together and try on.
• Likely changes needed
• Bust apex position (may need lowered)
• Waistline position (may need lowered/lengthened)
• Waistline position (may need altered for forward tilt)
• Hip shape (full high hip)
• More space for derriere (not a sway back alteration)
• Skirt length - may need to be longer
• Based on alterations made to tissue,  cut out and try on a toile. I plan to insert piping so I need to get the fit sorted before I do that. The pattern method doesn't actually include a toile so an extra stage but I think worth it.
• Adjust toile and adjust pattern pieces
• Cut out final dress with larger seam allowances as per Amazing Fit method

I have sufficient calico for a toile and David will help me with the tissue fitting

I will use double crepe for the dress and single crepe for the piping. I need to buy some black cord for the piping filling. These are the fabrics I had intended for the MOB dress.

I'm not sure about a full lining at this stage.The pattern doesn't specify a full lining but I added one to McCall's 6028 and liked that. Unlike many people,  I quite like facings, so I have a decision to make. I'm much less keen on a bias tape finish to neck and armscye edges. I tried it out on my previous toile for a modified 6028 (MOB dress) and while it was okay I didn't like it as much as either facings or a full lining,  both of which I've done.

Can I do it in time? I hope so! At least I have a month now not just 3 days! Well, 3 weeks, really , as I'll be away for around a week from Monday, helping out my mother. I feel really guilty that I didn't help her enough first time she moved, due to the wedding sewing (is that a factor in her not settling?), so she has to come first this time! At least because we downsized last time, there is less to deal with.

My next planned post will have details of fitting a toile. Hopefully in about 2 weeks time. Really the final making takes least time - I find that all my time is taken up in fitting.

PR beginner prize and related thoughts; opting out of plus size contest; college

I won second place in the PR Beginner Contest! I'm delighted. The first place was very well deserved, no complaints! The winner made a great looking Minoru jacket.  I don't feel ready to make one yet but I like the look. I had many lovely comments on my blouse, the piping in particular. Many of my previous garments were made under supervision but for this I flew more or less alone. I got help with muslin fitting and design inspiration.

 

 

I've won a $75 Mood Fabric voucher. I'm not sure how to deal with it.  Perhaps we could visit New York? I'd like to travel there someday. (I live just 15 minutes from New York - so of course I'm referring to NYC!) Now that I'm sewing,  it sounds like a paradise! I saw a UK blogger went to NYC recently and found that Liberty of London fabric was MUCH cheaper in Mood than in the UK,  which is rather bizarre! I wouldn't of course travel to NYC just to spend a $75 voucher; my youngest daughter is planning to work in New York for a year, but not until after her wedding next year.

I've read about notions that sound fantastic but don't remember what they all are. Perhaps I could get some advice on what would be a good idea to buy?

 

From the US to the UK,  import duty and VAT are heavy - and charged on the total of the items plus postage and packing!  Then the PO adds on another £8 for handling. So I need to be careful.  Books don't attract this duty but Mood doesn't have a very exciting collection online. So I really want to want or need what I buy not just buy for the sake of it. I'd rather give the voucher away. However, I'm jumping the gun - I don't have it yet!

Sheer seam binding

Steam a seam

What else?

As a second place winner, I'm allowed to display a badge on my blog. It isn't working just now but hopefully it'll get fixed soon.

 

Last week,  I went back to my non-college class after the midterm break and asked a few questions. The first was about the blouse as I had questions about the collar insertion, but really the only way to go about finding out how to do this well is to get support during the actual process. So I'll make another shirt or blouse with a collar and stand. I may not use the same pattern. Lyn could see the issues but kindly said that they were covered by facing etc. We briefly discussed how to insert a collar but I really need to see it in real life!

 

Lyn hadn't seen the blouse since I'd added the piping and was complimentary about my work.

 

 

My second question was about the same blouse. I hadn't seen Lyn since I popped into the class on the run to ask about the dart position. At that stage, the bust darts were very definitely too low and too short, even though I'd made numerous muslins. In my five minutes in class,  Lyn confirmed my thoughts and we agreed a dart position. As my blouse was partially constructed at this stage, I had to undo the side seams and the existing darts in order to reconstruct the dart. None of the seam edges were overlocked at this stage, so it wasn't a huge issue, just rather awkward. I went ahead and altered the darts. In my final blouse, however, I realised/felt the darts were too high and too close to the apex. I decided not to alter at that stage but wait until I spoke to Lyn. I realised that bra choice made a difference, but the bra I had used while fitting unfortunately showed through the blouse as can be seen in my photos. I hadn't realised this until then. In class, using a different bra which doesn't show through but which is less supportive,  Lyn agreed with me that the darts needed to revert more or less to their previous position. I unpicked the side seams and the overlocking over the darts, pressed out the previous dart marks and redrew  and pinned the new darts.

 

I had several unsuccessful attempts to sew the darts. Then I realised they were asymmetrical - presumably my measuring had been inaccurate when I tried to alter them previously. I needed to remove press marks and chalk marks so risked washing the blouse at this stage (it had been worn and there were a lot of different and confusing chalk and pressing marks from all my dart attempts) and was pleased that all the marks came out. I had been concerned about making the marks permanent.

 The dart extension isn't the correct shape now and doesn't properly fit the space now but it's okay. I'm happier with the positioning now.

 

I planned to enter the PR plus size contest. I debated which pattern to use. The rules changed after the start of the contest meaning that I didn't have to use a specific plus pattern and could alter to fit, grading between sizes if necessary. I looked at several patterns - Vogue 8646, Simplicity 1156 and Butterick 5951 and decided to start with the Vogue.

 

 

 

I didn't have very much time after the other competition (and if I'd won I wouldn't have been eligible to enter another competition)  and had some family things going on. I blew hot and cold about it.

I made a muslin of V8646, having made initial pattern adjustments,  and found it needed a lot of additional alteration, particularly in the neck/collar area. I didn't even know where to start. I put it aside but will pick up again as I do need a summer dress. This one is lovely and I'm not going to be afraid of the seam binding.

 

I loved the shape of B5951 (version B not the view shown) and R at college tissue fitted me when she found I had it with me - she was there as an extra finishing some work and the others were doing an exercise I had completed. I made the changes to the pattern and made up a muslin. The bodice was 4" too short. Quite a few changes were needed. I put aside.

 

 

 

I had previously made McCall's 6028 (my PR review here) but the dress doesn't fit anymore so unfortunately it's not a TNT! Partly it was tight because it had shrunk after many washings (fabric issue) discussed more in an earlier blog post), more in length than width and I've put on a lot of weight. I asked Lyn's advice about the fit and went ahead and made alterations to the pattern. I added ⅝" to centre front and centre back. I had no concerns about the neck being a little wider. I added ⅝" to the side seams. some of which will be removed during fitting. I didn't alter the length as the original was okay.

 

 

I made up a muslin and the following week, I asked Lyn to assess its fit. Overall it was pretty good. I needed the extra width on the hip but not above my waist and the princess seams needed tweaked  near the top.  I've made up a new pattern and am just about ready to make it. However,  I don't want to rush it so decided that wasn't a suitable contest entry, after all. I'm using double crepe for the dress and single crepe for piping. I probably won't use cord. A friend put doubts into my mind by saying how difficult crepe is to sew and asking how I was planning to tackle it. Then I read that it continues to shrink. This scared me. I will make it up in the next few weeks. I've only washed the fabric once so far. Next time I will measure beforehand and if there is more shrinkage,  I will wash again,  otherwise not. I didn't think polyester shrunk but apparently it is to do with the twisted yarn which is the main feature of crepe.

 

So I went back to B5951. We've had a bit of a heat wave here and I'd like to have a dress I can wear. I didn't have the opportunity to ask Lyn about the fit of the muslin but went ahead and made the alterations I felt necessary. Really mainly length, though this affected the special darts at the front. There was nowhere marked for a length adjustment and I had to try to do it anyway. The armhole depth was also too low and I raised that.  I added 2" in two places to the front, so the straight portion of the dart was 2" longer.  I added 4" altogether to the back so the dart there is that much longer. I spent ages truing up the pattern.

Altered front

I decided not to make another muslin. Mistake!  I'm using a Liberty cotton and the newly designed top is awful. It doesn't fit - anywhere,  looks large and unflattering, giving me no shape. It adds 20lbs to me! It isn't wearable at all. DH said two things 1. You really need to lose weight and 2. That's not competition material. I agree with him on both counts. Do I give up or ask advice?  Well I think it has to be the latter since the fabric is Liberty! I'll ask next week at class and make a decision.

Rather more vintagy in feel than I usually use - I tend to prefer solids.

So I'm not entering this contest and probably won't enter any for months more;  these two appealed. It was unfortunate that they overlapped in their timing. For these two, I planned to make garments I needed and would actually wear. In other words, fitting in with my plan.

 

I realise,  too,  that I have such a lot to learn. I can't just pick up a pattern and run with it.  True, a lot of this is due to fitting issues. However, I find that the patterns don't give the kind of good finishing instructions I'm looking for and I don't yet know what techniques and materials to use.  So I reckon I'll continue with the college course next year if it's still running.

 

I'm the type of person who performs well with deadlines (a bit of a procrastinator!) which is why I've entered these contests - they provide encouragement. At least I was - my approach has changed since I retired and deadlines don't suit me so well now! I also take on too many things - something has to give!

 

Taking on too many things includes the number of different patterns. I need to stick to and perfect one or two rather than scatting around all over the place. I know this but somehow as I don't really like the final iteration of a garment - I find loads of faults - I don't feel like making it again. I'm going to try to change, though!

 

In my college techniques class, we have to make a simple garment and I think I'll go back to basics. And do it well. Not a dress - a skirt, I think. I previously had an unsuccessful run with Simplicity 2475

(review here) so might try that again, even though I rated the pattern as mediocre! I actually have the muslin from the previous time but it probably won't fit. I think it'll be a fairly decent starting point. It has princess seams, contoured waistband and kick pleats with underlay. I might look for an alternative as I found the pleats difficult - not helped by an incorrect marking - and feel they are a bit too formal for my casual day to day life. I'll think about it. My fabric choice would be better now, too. I have 1 more week before I need to submit my plan.

 

In the college pattern cutting class I need to make trousers (that fit)  and that fits in well with my goals - I plan to make capris for golf. I haven't yet got a well fitting toile though. I have knock knees but much worse on the left side where I have a painful and swollen knee. I've had to alter my toile to account for this but basically this means that I need separate patterns for each leg. I did make up a toile then realised I'd forgotten to add seam allowances so I shouldn't have been surprised when it was far too tight!

 

I feel less frustrated than I thought I would. Overall my main feeling is relief. I have a few golf tasks for tomorrow's big competition (and I'm involved all day from 8am to 7pm plus I'm playing), a portfolio which is very far from up to date, blog posts not posted and a very untidy sewing room aka dining room. So that'll get sorted rather than flogging a dead horse. There's no way I could've got them all done.  Plus I was due to watch a big professional event finishing today on my course but DH needs to complete his course portfolio for tomorrow - he's been tied up with garden shed roof repair in the last few days, with some help from me in lifting the very heavy roof back on - he doesn't usually leave things until the last minute, so I think I'll give it a miss. I've seen some of it already and there is some TV coverage on Sky Sports.  It's amazing to see our course on TV - it's difficult to recognise the hole they're playing as the views are not those seen by a player. Well,  the ones I know anyway!

Learning from my mistakes?

I haven't been doing much sewing. The weather has been great here on the whole apart from a few recent chilly evenings and mornings when the central heating has come on. During summer I have a lot of golf matches at various different courses - a pleasure in good weather. My back problems have hindered a little but I'm determined that they won't stop me; I go to chiropractor/osteopath, do stretches etc and take supplements and NSAIs and use a belt when necessary. I manage. I'm also preparing a lot of paperwork for circulation to the 40 odd golf courses in the county and then for the AGM (I'm County Vets' Secretary). On top of that, there have been a few family issues that took time and used up emotional energy with the end result that I didn't feel like sewing. But that's okay - it's a hobby and not a job! I have continued to read the blogs I follow and I read some books, some sewing, some not. Oh, and I also bought a few patterns. I did do one or two alterations to garments belonging to me and to one of my daughters.

I had intended to sew some golf crop trousers but didn't get around to it. Maybe next year - the season for golf is nearly over and then I'm into cold weather wear. I do have some warmer golf trousers that would be suitable if I can alter them to fit better. Some are just heavier weight wool but some are water resistant and fleece lined and I'm not too sure about altering those - I don't want to make them leak at the seams with new stitching! I've also discovered that I don't like making alterations.

I signed up for a couple more online courses. The most recent was a Pattern Review course on understanding interfacing. I haven't received my pack of interfacing samples and fabrics to do two half sized samples yet but I've read through all of the materials. It makes interesting reading - I had no idea there were so many different types of interfacing! I don't imagine that I'll be able to get them all in the UK, even online and I don't want to order from the US because of postage charges and import tax. I think our biggest name here is Vilene so I need to see if I can get some samples at the show I'm going to in November. Then, too, I need to be undertaking the projects that need these interfacings. But the biggest lesson is to make several samples to see which one suits best for the purpose and your intentions. When I made my jacket, there were several different interfacings involved. My tutor chose these, though, and we didn't really discuss them in detail. I feel that the hemline needed more structure.

So, onto the mistake of the title.

 

I did view B but in a single colour

My sewing room has been chaotic. It has a whole load of extra stuff in there that isn't usually, making it difficult in any case to sew or even to find things. I was always very organised at work but not so at home. Double whammy! My 'little white dress' (ivory) featured a centre fold right down the front and despite all my efforts, I wasn't able to get rid of this. I hadn't noticed this issue when I was sewing it and would just have assumed it would iron out when the dress was completed. I hope I won't make that mistake again.

 

Clearly needed better pressing! I thought that was the only issue.

 

Pictures taken before I realised there was a problem

I decided to take the dress apart to salvage the zipper (a beautiful and rather expensive long invisible zipper) when I realised that I could have a go at trying to replace the middle panel, as I still had enough fabric left. There was nothing to lose - either it would work, or it wouldn't.

So, first step was to remove the middle panel. Achieved. Second step was to cut out a new front panel, using the same pattern piece as before. First problem. I couldn't find it - anywhere. I looked into every pattern envelope and my large art folder which holds my traced, drafted and thicker paper patterns. No joy. Eventually I decided that I would use the front unpicked from the dress as a pattern piece. I traced around the piece and added a seam allowance. I added 1cm only as I had previously used the overlocker to join the sections. So the seam allowance of the side fronts was now only 1cm. I found this process rather more difficult than I anticipated, but I did eventually manage. Then the next step was to cut out a new fabric front panel. Originally, the front had been cut on the fold but I now had a full piece which didn't need to be cut this way. Obviously, I had to avoid recreating the previous problem, and had to manipulate the fabric remnant to allow the rather long piece to be cut out. Eventually achieved. Then I pinned the new front piece into the dress and it sat that way for quite a few days while I contemplated the next step. I wasn't confident about the process.. 

 

A couple of days ago, I decided I really had to finish or junk the project. I decided to first hand baste the seams, then stitch with the sewing machine and then overlock. Sounds a bit like overkill, but I wasn't very confident and it was much more difficult to make the alteration than it had been to create the dress in the first place! I still had to ease the bust shaping. I still wanted to understitch in the neck area but this was more difficult because of the previous work - the lining was rather frayed and the seam allowance shorter than it had been. Anyway, I eventually managed - not perfect, but good enough, I felt.

I'm not sure why I didn't notice earlier, but then I realised that the centre panel was a different shade from the rest of the dress and had a firmer feeling. My husband asked me if I had put the wrong side out - no, I hadn't. All of the fabric had been pre-washed but of course the rest of the dress had had several treatments to try to get the centre fold out. So I decided I would complete the dress and then wash it. So I finished pressing and then sat down to watch TV and hand stitch hem and stitch lining down to zip. All finished - off to the wash.

The dress has now been washed twice since completion. I could still see a difference in the centre panel. Then, I realised, to my horror, that I had used the fabric wrong way up! I hadn't considered this at all. I always tend to cut using a with nap layout. I hadn't thought of this pattern - a small geometric - as having a right way up. Well, it doesn't, just that all pieces should be the same way up! They're not. I hadn't given it a thought. Can I wear the dress? Will anyone else notice? Does it matter whether they notice or not? - I'll know.

New panel on bottom of photo

The dress is still wet from its most recent wash. I can still see a difference in shade. And after all this manipulation I realise that I don't even know if it still fits me!!

New panel to left of photo

In the photos, I have shown the seam between front and side front. Once the dress is dry, I will try on again and see if it fits and how noticeable the shading and direction is.

Next week, my sewing class restarts after the summer break and I'm starting an evening class in pattern cutting. I'm looking forward to that. Unfortunately, I'll miss a few sessions because of other commitments but hopefully I'll be able to catch up okay. One of the commitments is a sewing one - I'm going to London to the Bernina Sewing School to learn how to use my new Berninas (sewing machines and overlocker). I'm looking forward to life getting more back to normal and I'll get on with some sewing for autumn. Today I played golf in beautiful sunshine, in crops and short sleeved shirt, but the gold and russet coloured leaves, fallen chestnuts and nights drawing in are a reminder that autumn is just around the corner.