Some unexpected length changes after altering wedding dress toile

Helen's wedding dress is a very fitted style.

I ran into problems when she markedly changed shape

I originally didn't realise this would be an issue. After all,  she was already slim, UK RTW size 8 - 10 at 6’ tall - pretty much ‘model’ proportions. She started a diet alongside a fitness regime. She wanted to get slightly below her ‘ideal’ weight, by a kg, and tune up her figure.

If she had been readily accessible for fittings, this would have been okay but as it was…

Early on, Helen made it clear she wanted the skirt to be bum hugging. Compromises were made on both sides and I think the skirt was a nice shape.

First problem was that the skirt didn't flow properly at the back. The rear portion was inverted. This was improved by a combination of making the angle of the under bum seam less acute and adding additional fabric - a godet-type addition, except the seaming wasn't visible as it was removed in the pattern pieces.

Better.

Except Helen had lost 5 kg and her shape had changed markedly. I don't know if she will be willing to show the before and after. I'll ask! She says her weight is in the ideal range - I was of course a bit concerned that she was markedly overdoing it when she lost 5 kg and threatened to lose more. Most of the changes are due to toning up her figure.

The toile had to be changed a lot - taken in by up to 8 cms in width at the waist!

I think things began to go wrong here.

The next toile was too tight. A lot too tight. 6 cms too tight! How did that happen? This was a toile complete in all details bar embellishments. The fitting session was taken up with the addition of fabric. Rory says that adding fabric is never as accurate as taking in. I guess I’ve seen this in action now!

I had to make up a quick new toile and post (are you counting the number of toiles here? - I haven't even mentioned them all!). Helen sent photos and I was extremely disappointed. It just didn't fit. It looked huge and baggy and shapeless and the bum wasn't fitted … I thought this was due to further weight loss and shape change. There were horrible pouches at front of both bodice and skirt. Ghastly. Rory, too, was at a bit of a loss saying she certainly hadn't expected that. We assumed Helen had lost more weight as she had threatened to do.

I went back to Missy on Rory's advice and with Dan’s help refitted the bodice. It looked great on Missy (I had rechecked Missy's sizes with Helen's and they were still sufficiently close) I removed the pouching (details in a different post) and made up a quick toile to take with me to Cambridge. I didn't refit the skirt on Missy as it looked as if most of the problems were bodice. In the photos Helen sent,  the back was pulling up and I did some work to alter that (again details elsewhere but briefly the bodice was altered more than the skirt to reflect what we saw on the photos, but the skirt back did have a small section removed to smooth it out)

In Cambridge I also had the opportunity to see the toile I had previously sent on Helen. More of that later.

Latest toile:

I am clearly not good at fitting, unfortunately! I made some changes to the bodice on one side and not the other with a view to asking Rory's advice. Helen wasn't wearing the right bra so I didn't want to over-fit.

The bum was not right. I suddenly realised (after a while of looking at it in consternation) that this was because the back skirt was not long enough at the waist. I unpicked the back bodice from the skirt to the side seams and the bum started to fall into place. There was a gap of 5 cms at the centre! There was still a gap at the side seams.

I then got Helen to try on the posted toile but just the skirt portion using the waist stay to hold it in place. It sat beautifully 3 centimetres below her natural waist and the bum shape was great! (I think the difference between the 3 and the 5 cms reflects the small bit I took off to smooth the back and of course the 5 cms is a less accurate measurement because I had to add in)

So at some stage I have lost that amount from the pattern. I'm not sure how, apart from the smoothing out. The why must be all those alterations, I guess. Sorry,  Helen, for assuming it was ongoing weight loss. She has agreed not to change between now and the wedding so that's something at least.

My next step?  You've guessed it - another toile!!

I will add the ‘lost’ portion to the top of the skirt. I will not modify the bodice at this stage as Rory too suggested I was in danger of just chopping away and away at it and not really gaining anything. When the skirt and bodice were joined, the waist in front was correct so I think that means I don't need to change front bodice length. I'm not sure about the back bodice.

Another issue, of course,  is length. The skirt will now be rather longer. Helen was keen to have the train longer and likes the longer length but I don't know if I have enough fabric! The fabric amount was measured out with shorter lengths. The fabric is expensive so we didn't want to buy too much,  of course. Fingers crossed! At one stage the bodice was cut on the bias and now it is not so that at least gives some hope for fabric quantity!

Helen is here this coming weekend for a friend's hen do and we can manage another fitting. It was going to be an all singing all dancing toile - I bought some beautiful Prada fabric that is much too good for a toile but I couldn't see fabric close enough in handle. I will use this anyway I think but not yet as fit is still an issue. I won't underline it at this stage. The assistant in the fabric shop thought I was making the actual dress from it. It's gorgeous enough! I bought the same quantity as I have in the silk. My underlining and lining fabrics were cheaper,  however.

Wish me luck!

Thoughts on seams and seam allowances; wedding update

When I use commercial patterns, the seam allowances are usually 1.5 cm or ⅝”. The two are not absolutely equivalent. The big 4 are ⅝” and they tend to have all seam allowances this size and then get you to trim. I'm not very good at trimming. However, I do use their seam allowances if I'm making one of their patterns. It would probably be better to trim some of the allowances on the paper pattern before I start and that's my intention in the future.

1.5cm v 5/8"

I ran into an issue when sewing up a skirt with several panels, drafted with 1.5 cm seam allowances. My sewing machine is marked at 5/8" and I sewed up using this marking. However this is 1.6cm approx,  in fact. So each seam allowance was 1mm x 2 larger than it should have been. 5 seams mean that the skirt is 1cm tighter than it should have been. This doesn't seem much but was decidedly problematic. I'm going to mark the seam allowance on the machine which should make it easier to follow the correct straight line. I tried this but the tape I used isn't too easy to follow; I need to find a better method.

When I make my own patterns,  I tend to use metric.  I use 1 cm seams a lot. I find these good for princess seams, neck and armhole edges etc. This is the size we use most in class. There is no doubt that particular sizes are best for particular purposes, however.

Reading pattern making books which use imperial measurements,  they often recommend ¼” for collar edges, for example. Different sizes for different purposes.

For fitting, larger seam allowances are best. The big 4 amazing fit patterns suggest 1” as do many of the imperial pattern books. Our class tutor suggests 2cms.

I find in practice that I often use 1.5 cm,  approximately ⅝”, as that is so widely used (but see issue, above) 

So

1 cm for shoulder seams,  armholes, neckline, facings

1.5 cm for side seams and back seams if a zip is going to be included, 1 cm otherwise.

1.5 cm for waistline seams.

However, when I started making my own patterns,  before I started my college  course, I used Sure Fit Designs, SFD. This is in imperial, ⅝”.

When I started drafting patterns for my daughters, I used SFD - draping and using some of the other systems weren't really possible.

As I fit the toiles, I alter the seam allowances.

Why do I mention this?

I've already said in other posts that I'm not very organised.

I'm doing patterns for two pretty much identical bridesmaid dresses, each custom sized for my two older daughters. For the bodice of each, I started with SFD.

I was sewing up a further bodice toile before posting it off. 

The shoulder seams on one were 1.5 cm  and on the other 1 cm as I had adjusted one and not the other. Needless to say,  I sewed one at the wrong place! Just as well this wasn't the final fabric.

I'm regularly getting them wrong as I'm just not consistent.

This leads to slowness as I keep having to check with the pattern what size the seam should be.

Rory and Dan have agreed to sew up the bridesmaids dresses for me. So I reckon I'd better sort out those patterns! I'll do that after these two toiles are fitted, which will be done by post. ( edited to add - Joanne's is fine but Alison's needs taken in quite a bit,  so her pattern will have to be altered; I've asked her to get a local dressmaker to do this.)

Update Wednesday 27th April 
Quite a while has passed since I started writing this post. Helen's dress isn't going well. I posted her a toile this week as the last one was so bad - but there are still problems. Alison was going to get a local dressmaker to pin fit her toile on her but has been so busy with her open university course, work, life and motherhood and organising the hen-do for Helen that she hasn't managed; she just realised when I tired to chase her up that it was nearly the end of April. I've decided I do have to travel to meet the girls. I decided against attending the hen do, originally (it's a full weekend and Monday is a bank holiday, too). Firstly, I personally don't feel that this is for my generation(!) and secondly, my mother was due to be moving into sheltered accommodation this weekend and I was involved in moving her. However,that has been postponed slightly. So I'm visiting my mother Friday and Saturday to help out and then travelling home (car) then on Sunday/Monday will visit Cambridge and attend part of Helen's hen do on Sunday night. On Monday I should get a chance to fit both Helen (in the yet another new) toile I'm making at the moment to take with me - and Alison. I have a couple of things to check out with Joanne too. Wish me luck!! It's still more than a month to the wedding, but only just!

Three months to go - arghh!

Yes,  it's now three months to Helen's wedding. The time has passed very quickly and I'm a bit worried (I can't say I'm panicking etc as Helen reads my blog!)

Obviously, I'm not going to be saying anything specific in my blog at this stage but I'm writing notes for myself and thought I'd share some here and update on my progress. This is again a rather photo poor post.

Wedding dress design

I think we've more or less decided on a design.

Last week I was really upset as Helen proposed an alternative design - or two. I felt I had insufficient time to be still dithering around. In addition, I had a toile that she hadn't yet seen far less tried on.

However

• I really didn't have the skills to create our previous design
• I didn't like the toiles
• I modified the toiles, made new versions, and still didn't like them.
• I prefer Helen's latest proposal (and it really has to be her last proposal, too!). It's altogether more Helen. I hope I can produce it.

As David said, if we had come to the stage of rejecting it designs in another 2 or 3 weeks we would have been very much worse off so best now.

My last toile had issues with the way it hung and I'm trying to modify that, helped by both Rory and Dan. Rory has been the main help but Dan was able to help with the specific skirt issue.

I think I can say the dress is long and as Helen is so tall that's very long indeed. I've had problems controlling the pattern and the fabric. I've decided that once the pattern is finalised and properly trued etc I will have to put it onto board as that's more stable.

Helen really wanted a full working model, still a toile, by Easter. I'm not sure I can manage that because of the issues I've been having.

However, tonight I finished the 4th toile, after some alterations for hang had been made to the toile last time and transferred onto the pattern.

I haven't got everything right but it has potential. I have a number of sewing skills to learn!

I sent Helen a quick photo on my camera and she loves it, other than the colour of the toile! Pink this time.

Cheap satin back crepe/duchess satin used as toile fabric

The bridesmaid dresses are in satin back crepe or rather crepe backed satin and I bought a lot of a much cheaper variety to use as toiles for these and the wedding dress.

Bad news.

The fabric was a gorgeous colour. A beautiful blue, which I loved. That was the only positive.

Firstly,  sewing seams:
As I sewed each seam, I improved. The puckering that I had at the start got less. I found taut sewing helpful. I used my dual feed but not my walking foot. I didn’t need the walking foot too - is an actual walking foot better than dual feed?
Pressing
Oh dear! This fabric just wouldn't take a crease. After I had pressed it all, I felt I might as well not have bothered. Dan showed me that using a block of wood can help.
I hope my final fabrics are less troublesome!

Bridesmaids dresses

The design is decided.

• The fabric is bought.
• I have underlining fabric and thread.
• The pattern for my oldest daughter is redrawn after she tried a toile on a couple of weeks ago. She's coming up at Easter and I hope to use that nasty blue fabric to make a full working toile.
• My middle daughter hasn't got back to me about hers as yet. I believe she’s trying it on tomorrow and her sister will try to fit her into it. I’m happy to get it at Easter but would like to know if it’s close or a long way away!
• Also, no more weight loss - or gain!

Dan has been very helpful and continues to be there for help and advice.

Groom's waistcoat

• The design is decided
• The toiles fitted and modified
• Pattern drawn, including separate lining pieces
• Fabric and lining bought
• Thread and interfacing bought

I'm starting the actual waistcoat on Thursday coming. I hope to have it ready for Easter when H&A come up.

I'm pretty calm about it.

We still need to decide on buttons

Lyn is my advisor here.

MOB outfit

No, I still haven't completely decided.

I have two dresses in progress - I need to create a dress for my final course work but may not actually wear either if I can buy an outfit. So far I've been totally unsuccessful though. I went shopping with my mother this weekend and she saw what might be the perfect outfit for her. The size wasn’t quite right so we are going again tomorrow to see if we can get a different size.

I've decided against using the Indian dupion silk as that's a bridge too far at this stage

First dress:

A variant of a dress I've made before so no surprises.

I decided to make up a toile in case I've changed sizes a lot. I've drawn up a new pattern and have cut it out. I'm using the fashion fabric as I'm aware that different fabrics behave differently.

There are a few variations,  to ring the changes.

Second dress:

This will be my actual course work dress. I've hacked a pattern from a dress (following a pattern hack class run by Dan and Rory) that fits me and which I like. I've drawn it up and need to try it out in similar fabric. I probably won't wear this for the wedding though as I think the fabric I've chosen is a bit dull for a wedding, though I do like it. I couldn’t find one that I thought was ideal.

Lace jacket

I thought I would make a lace jacket. I thought this could be nice with the dress, though wasn’t sure. I've never sewn with lace so decided to use some lace I picked up in a fabric and pattern swap at the recent Dewsbury Yorkshire Spoolettes meet up.

It hasn't turned it as I expected.

I used xxxx. Tissue fitted. Modified to size, with help from Lyn. I can never fit myself! Can anyone?

The sleeves were huge! I ended up narrowing them by a LOT. I took in by at least six inches at the wrist, gradually narrowing to zero just above the elbow.

The jacket,  or is it a cardigan, is rather too short and too boxy; I need more waist shaping.

I did find the lace a little difficult to work with.

The biggest issue was that despite being careful, I still managed to cut out two left sleeves!  I didn't have enough fabric to recut (though if I'd realised how long and big they'd turn out,  maybe I would've). Lyn helped modify the sleeve to allow it to be used. There was rather a lot of sleeve cap ease. I struggled to insert the sleeves and was pleased when Lyn inserted them for me.

The pattern used scalloped lace and mine wasn't so this wasn't so successful. I had to do narrow hems all around.

I still have to finish the front band and overlock the sleeve/shoulder joins. I’ll post a photo after that.

Sunday:

Okay, I've finished edges. Sleeves are still too long . I need to add a fastening at top. I thought I'd post today, though, since we agreed at the Yorkshire Spoolettes meet up that today we would show an item we had made from fabric from that day. I hope mine counts as this wasn't purchased fabric. 

I don't like the end result and won't be trying to make one for the wedding.

Jacket

So I don't have a jacket

Do I need one in June?

Organisation

My organisation of pattern pieces, order of piece number etc is very poor. I don't seem to learn - it's caused a few problems.

Cutting

Mats and tables

My large cutting mats and new rotary cutter have been invaluable. I need to make sure I have enough new blades for the actual projects.

I learned at class that the tables there are padded for pattern cutting and rotating darts etc. I'll take the hard surface of the mat any day.

Blades and shears

I'm much better at the rotary cutter than scissors. I need to buy more of the larger blades. When I get around to cutting the wedding dress I don't want this to be a problem

Missy is just not cutting the mustard!

I was very pleased when we modified the dressmaking model to fit Helen. It seemed pretty close. This was important as Helen isn't here to try things on. I have posted toiles back and forward in the past but don’t think that will work in this case.

I think the problems are as follows:

• The shoulders don’t collapse and are pretty wide
• The shape of the neck and shoulders isn’t quite right and cannot be modified
• The model body just isn’t flexible enough - I actually tore a seam trying to get a garment on
• Missy just isn’t tall enough despite all our changes. Okay for a shorter length dress but not for a full length dress.

Course

I'm rather behind, I'm afraid. Largely with the written work rather than the practical,  though.

Next weekend I plan to catch up. I’m away for the weekend but will have some time to play with. I will visit the spa, of course but instead of reading another crime book, I’ll do some written course work. i’ll take my laptop.

Golf Committee Work

We had our annual bridge drive last week and it went well. I was working very hard on this so now that it’s over, my time should hopefully be less pressurised.

We are also collecting the membership fees. I organise that (but just pass the cheques onto the treasurer) and also have to print out the membership cards. The bulk of them have now been dealt with. There are still a few straggler clubs and I’ll have to post out their cards (not yet printed as I only did enough to take to the bridge drive)

Golf

I've missed a lot of golf because of trips and visits . I just have to accept that until after the wedding.

Health

I’ve finally managed to restart the medication that disagreed with me previously. I’m on a lower, half, dose and not on the other medication which could have been partially implicated and don’t have any significant side effects - so I’m planning to increase to the full dose next week.

The medication takes 3 months to work - so with any luck, I should hopefully see a difference by the time of Helen’s wedding.

I find a lot of consecutive sewing hurts my back and shoulders although I do move around. That’s why I’m writing this post - I don’t want to do any more sewing tonight.

Conclusion

I feel I’m on target.

I have good help available when I get stuck - and am more than happy to read, research, experiment etc though as time left gets less I’ll be less able to do that.