Perfecting pattern for Helen's red silk dress; part 4. Getting rid of UFOs. Weight loss update

Altering Pattern Pieces

It might seem premature to start working on the pattern for Helen's red silk dress before I've had feedback about how the green toile fits.

While making the toile I was aware of issues which needed to be addressed. Even if the size is otherwise perfect and that's unlikely.

Cutting single layer - making full size pattern pieces

This is the biggy for me. The difficulties I had with the back were due to me cutting on the fold and the fabric slipping. I have already redrawn the back skirt as one full skirt piece, though I will have to modify and I will be redrawing the front of the dress as one full piece, too. I don't need to alter the back bodice pieces, unless I just do another piece to help with fabric layout. I haven't yet done the front.

Princess seams

In the final dress, the seams will be overlocked together pressed to one side and top stitched as in the original. They are not French seamed, though with a fine silk that would presumably be possible. Helen wants me to identically mimic the original so I’ll overlock and stitch over the overlocking. I need to buy some better colour overlocker threads. Note to self - put on my to do/to buy list

The first issue was the way the princess seams had to be folded on the back bodice of the dress. One side is rather curved,  the other is straight and Dan pointed out that the seam wouldn't lie in the direction of the curved seam. I therefore trued up the seams to allow them to lie in the direction they wanted to. A few minor changes but which should improve the sewing experience. I hadn’t realised this. I always find it fascinating the little tips I pick up which aren’t given consciously, really, but are part of the experience my tutors have.

Armhole

I also had to true the back armhole,  shaving a little off the area where the princess seam meets the armhole. I had to trim this area on the toile. There had been a small projection in this area,  as a consequence of the way the seams were trying to lie.

I carefully smoothed out the front armhole curve after folding out the dart. I had done this previously but I felt the edge was raggy.  It's better now.

I'm not doing these in order of completion.

Dress length

The sides of the dress were a good bit shorter than the front in particular but also the back.  Doing the toile, I trimmed the front after measuring from the floor. I wasn't sure how to make changes to the pattern and asked Dan's advice. She advised adding to the side seam to smooth out what is effectively a dip at that point. This would give me more leeway. The hem would still need to be evened in the same way as for the toile on the final dress. I haven't actually done that as yet - I'll do it when I redraw the pattern pieces.

External band at waist

I decided to slightly lengthen the band at the waistband - by 3 cms but haven't redrawn the pattern piece yet.

Pocket, pocket flap, poppets

Most of my time in class was spent on the pocket and this has been redrawn.

First,  I marked on the pattern front where the pocket was to go. This was pocket size without seam allowances. I attached pattern front and back at the side seams and continued the pocket across the seam. There will be a lot of drill holes marking corners  etc. I will also make card versions.

The two pieces are not stuck together here and have slipped slightly. 

After discussion with Rory and examination of the toile,  we concluded that there had to be additional support behind the poppets or they would tear out almost instantly. You'll remember the original dress doesn't have this and Helen doesn't want it. However,  the original dress has torn in that area. I don't  want to put a lot of effort into something which will tear so readily. I'll discuss with Helen.

Anyway,  I concluded I wanted to put an interfaced facing piece onto the pocket edge and the area where the poppets attach. Just a couple of cms wide but it should make all the difference. I will overlock so that there isn't extra bulk and move the facing away from the side seams where several layers come together.

Rory also helped me with the proper placement of the pocket flap and with the placement of the poppets.  Once I had it explained what the principles were,  I was able to fine tune this myself.

In class,  I also drew up the facing for the pocket. That's not in the photo for some reason.

I will redraw all pieces onto fresh paper and make cardboard templates for the pockets and the flaps to help make the seam allowances even.

I have ordered some suitable snaps and a Snapsetter (as recommended by Seamstress Erin). They are coming from the US, I believe, so will take a little while. We weren't very happy with the system we used though it did work.

Inside the toile pocket there are some raw edges and I need to think more carefully how to ensure this doesn't happen. Dan  also advised me on how to attach the flap in a better manner. One side on the toile is unsatisfactory.

The toile,  of course, was designed to help me with fit and with construction. I'm now much clearer about how to construct the final garment. Writing this, though, I realise I haven't completely worked out all issues (I'm thinking of bias binding at neck and armhole edges) but at least I'm getting there.

I waited before posting the toile as I needed to let Rory see it. Helen has now received it, says she loves it, has sent me a (poor) photo and intends to wear it to work today (Friday 27th January) and out for a birthday celebration tonight - presumably an after works drink. I didn't specify the problems I saw - and I guess if Helen doesn't see them, or doesn't care, well that's fine. I can't tell from the photo whether it fits well or needs any further modification.

I may as well wait now until I get feedback before completing the pattern modifications.

Broken Foot Control

At the sewing bee yesterday, I dropped my foot control getting it out of my sewing machine bag (I like to take my own sewing machine). We're a little cramped, to say the least. As it hit the floor, the control broke into 3 pieces - top, bottom and a spring. My tutor put it together apparently ok but unfortunately it was stuck and couldn't be used. I spent the rest of the class using the foot free start/stop control which I don't really like - I prefer the foot pedal and the knee lift as this gives me greater use of my hands.

My husband was reluctant to pull it apart although he didn't think it was broken. I saw a bit of plastic which I thought had sheared but he pointed out that it couldn't be as otherwise the pedal wouldn't ever have been able to move. I phoned my machine dealer, expecting to have to go and possibly replace the pedal, but he gave us instructions over the phone and the pedal is now working. At least I hope it is - I haven't tried it in earnest but it is moving freely. It seems that this is a fairly common issue.

Another Hack for Joanne? Postponed

I need to take a break from Helen's dress for a while. I want to make a couple of things for myself and Joanne, who is visiting at the moment, has asked me to hack a top she likes but which doesn't fit well - bust gathers gather on top of the bust instead of underneath, the length is pulled up at the front and feels too short. I have a couple of patterns with some similarities and I'd prefer to start there rather than with another full blown hack. I plan to use the pattern of the bodice for Joanne's bridesmaids dress to help with sizing, though as Dan pointed out that is for woven whereas this  top is stretch. Unfortunately, Joanne forgot to leave the top when she left to go back and so I think I'll leave that for a bit - we'll be visiting in 3 weeks.

UFOs

I thought perhaps a slightly snazzier image would make me feel better about these!

The first thing I do for myself will be a really simple UFO. I’ve decided I either complete the UFOs lying around or they go out - they are just taking up space both physically and emotionally. I’ve already abandoned a couple of UFO projects so I feel I have made real progress! I had decided to enter the PR UFO contest but as I have abandoned every project bar one I’ve picked up so far, that may not happen! I guess I can see why I abandoned these projects.

Abandoned projects

Simplicity 1156 - I suspect this is abandoned forever
Although Dan pinned this tighter, making the dress more satisfactory than it was prior to that, sorry it just doesn't work for me. I still find it frumpy and the length is not right - it is too short at the back, longer at the front, and overall just not an attractive length - I couldn't even the dress by trimming from the front (the dress is already hemmed) as overall I would prefer it longer. I also took off the bias binding around the neck and armholes (I can't remember why!!) so too much to do, anyway. This fabric will be discarded after I mark the changes from Dan's fitting onto my pattern - in case.

I've shown the skinny pattern version rather than the one on me, which is elsewhere on this blog, regrettably!
If you want you could search for it

Vogue 1082 skirt
There is just too much to do and as I am losing weight, it doesn't seem worth modifying the fit at this stage. I will wait until autumn as it's more a cool weather skirt in any case. The fabric I used is a summer weight cotton but I don't feel it suits the skirt. This really would be more of a toile for fit. I do like this skirt very much.

The skirt has been partially sewn up, basted and taken apart again - a mess of fabric pieces and threads

Sewing case
I didn't understand the instructions and didn't have all the materials I needed at the time - the interfacing was difficult to get (I have it now). I just don't need it at this stage.

Thread catcher.
Again, I didn't understand the instructions. It will have to wait - too much to do. This is not technically a UFO as I hadn't really started. I would like one but there are alternatives.

Trousers McCall's 6901
They are a million miles away with fit so not at this stage. The fabric will be discarded. actually, I probably won't use the pattern again, either.

No - I refuse to post the version I have; besides it's in pieces!

I also have trousers that I was going to hack. They had a tear so I had actually taken them apart and cut them up. Unfortunately I don't know if they would be anywhere close to fitting me now! Undecided what to do as yet.

Rory is going to drape me for a trouser block, hopefully starting next week or shortly thereafter. She originally asked me for my'best fitting pattern'. Sorry, there isn't one!

I am also going to another pattern hack class with Dan.

Postponed projects

The dress I hacked at Dan's last class, intended possibly as a MOB outfit for one of the events.

This is me in the original dress. The hacked version is plain grey

No photo of my version. The lining is great and fits really well but the outside needs work. I can't yet decide whether to take this garment with me to the new pattern hack class. Makes sense, doesn't it? In a way. On the other hand, something new that would fit in with my more immediate plans - a jacket or trousers would work better.

This wouldn't technically count as a UFO for the PR contest anyway as I will have to modify the outside layer of the dress which will probably mean re-cutting. The pattern certainly needs trued.You need to have cut out all the main pieces prior to October and I haven't. I'd like to finish this dress but I'm not in a hurry.

UFOs I will hopefully complete

Lace cardigan - more details in another post. Needs a fastening and the sleeves shortened.

Pattern envelope, now gone

This is from March 2016. Nearly done, just need to stitch hems on sleeves now -
sleeves looks short in photo but they are way too long

Skirt McCall's 3830 - more details in another post

The original was too big, taken in to too small, needs modified to intermediate state! Doable.

The fabric

These two would count as UFOs for the PR contest

The other UFOs that I have, which wouldn't count for the PR UFO contest are the two jackets I'm making but put off over Christmas and until now. They don't count because I haven't cut out the main fabric, just toile fabric and probably I was still working on them after the latest date, anyway. They will get done, soonish.

McCall's 6172 - just about ready to cut into main fabric. Boiled wool.

Grainline Morris Blazer - will be in lightweight boiled wool I suspect. nearly ready to go

Weight loss update

I was Slimmer of the Month for January with a weight loss of 12 lbs. 4 lbs this week despite Joanne being here - but I wasn't slimmer of the week as someone had lost 6 lbs and another had lost 5 lbs!! I thought 4 was impressive. The only time I ever lost more was when I was ill.

I'd like to carry on losing 2 lbs per week for a bit. 2 lbs this coming week would take me to 1 stone lost. That would be great.

PR beginner prize and related thoughts; opting out of plus size contest; college

I won second place in the PR Beginner Contest! I'm delighted. The first place was very well deserved, no complaints! The winner made a great looking Minoru jacket.  I don't feel ready to make one yet but I like the look. I had many lovely comments on my blouse, the piping in particular. Many of my previous garments were made under supervision but for this I flew more or less alone. I got help with muslin fitting and design inspiration.

 

 

I've won a $75 Mood Fabric voucher. I'm not sure how to deal with it.  Perhaps we could visit New York? I'd like to travel there someday. (I live just 15 minutes from New York - so of course I'm referring to NYC!) Now that I'm sewing,  it sounds like a paradise! I saw a UK blogger went to NYC recently and found that Liberty of London fabric was MUCH cheaper in Mood than in the UK,  which is rather bizarre! I wouldn't of course travel to NYC just to spend a $75 voucher; my youngest daughter is planning to work in New York for a year, but not until after her wedding next year.

I've read about notions that sound fantastic but don't remember what they all are. Perhaps I could get some advice on what would be a good idea to buy?

 

From the US to the UK,  import duty and VAT are heavy - and charged on the total of the items plus postage and packing!  Then the PO adds on another £8 for handling. So I need to be careful.  Books don't attract this duty but Mood doesn't have a very exciting collection online. So I really want to want or need what I buy not just buy for the sake of it. I'd rather give the voucher away. However, I'm jumping the gun - I don't have it yet!

Sheer seam binding

Steam a seam

What else?

As a second place winner, I'm allowed to display a badge on my blog. It isn't working just now but hopefully it'll get fixed soon.

 

Last week,  I went back to my non-college class after the midterm break and asked a few questions. The first was about the blouse as I had questions about the collar insertion, but really the only way to go about finding out how to do this well is to get support during the actual process. So I'll make another shirt or blouse with a collar and stand. I may not use the same pattern. Lyn could see the issues but kindly said that they were covered by facing etc. We briefly discussed how to insert a collar but I really need to see it in real life!

 

Lyn hadn't seen the blouse since I'd added the piping and was complimentary about my work.

 

 

My second question was about the same blouse. I hadn't seen Lyn since I popped into the class on the run to ask about the dart position. At that stage, the bust darts were very definitely too low and too short, even though I'd made numerous muslins. In my five minutes in class,  Lyn confirmed my thoughts and we agreed a dart position. As my blouse was partially constructed at this stage, I had to undo the side seams and the existing darts in order to reconstruct the dart. None of the seam edges were overlocked at this stage, so it wasn't a huge issue, just rather awkward. I went ahead and altered the darts. In my final blouse, however, I realised/felt the darts were too high and too close to the apex. I decided not to alter at that stage but wait until I spoke to Lyn. I realised that bra choice made a difference, but the bra I had used while fitting unfortunately showed through the blouse as can be seen in my photos. I hadn't realised this until then. In class, using a different bra which doesn't show through but which is less supportive,  Lyn agreed with me that the darts needed to revert more or less to their previous position. I unpicked the side seams and the overlocking over the darts, pressed out the previous dart marks and redrew  and pinned the new darts.

 

I had several unsuccessful attempts to sew the darts. Then I realised they were asymmetrical - presumably my measuring had been inaccurate when I tried to alter them previously. I needed to remove press marks and chalk marks so risked washing the blouse at this stage (it had been worn and there were a lot of different and confusing chalk and pressing marks from all my dart attempts) and was pleased that all the marks came out. I had been concerned about making the marks permanent.

 The dart extension isn't the correct shape now and doesn't properly fit the space now but it's okay. I'm happier with the positioning now.

 

I planned to enter the PR plus size contest. I debated which pattern to use. The rules changed after the start of the contest meaning that I didn't have to use a specific plus pattern and could alter to fit, grading between sizes if necessary. I looked at several patterns - Vogue 8646, Simplicity 1156 and Butterick 5951 and decided to start with the Vogue.

 

 

 

I didn't have very much time after the other competition (and if I'd won I wouldn't have been eligible to enter another competition)  and had some family things going on. I blew hot and cold about it.

I made a muslin of V8646, having made initial pattern adjustments,  and found it needed a lot of additional alteration, particularly in the neck/collar area. I didn't even know where to start. I put it aside but will pick up again as I do need a summer dress. This one is lovely and I'm not going to be afraid of the seam binding.

 

I loved the shape of B5951 (version B not the view shown) and R at college tissue fitted me when she found I had it with me - she was there as an extra finishing some work and the others were doing an exercise I had completed. I made the changes to the pattern and made up a muslin. The bodice was 4" too short. Quite a few changes were needed. I put aside.

 

 

 

I had previously made McCall's 6028 (my PR review here) but the dress doesn't fit anymore so unfortunately it's not a TNT! Partly it was tight because it had shrunk after many washings (fabric issue) discussed more in an earlier blog post), more in length than width and I've put on a lot of weight. I asked Lyn's advice about the fit and went ahead and made alterations to the pattern. I added ⅝" to centre front and centre back. I had no concerns about the neck being a little wider. I added ⅝" to the side seams. some of which will be removed during fitting. I didn't alter the length as the original was okay.

 

 

I made up a muslin and the following week, I asked Lyn to assess its fit. Overall it was pretty good. I needed the extra width on the hip but not above my waist and the princess seams needed tweaked  near the top.  I've made up a new pattern and am just about ready to make it. However,  I don't want to rush it so decided that wasn't a suitable contest entry, after all. I'm using double crepe for the dress and single crepe for piping. I probably won't use cord. A friend put doubts into my mind by saying how difficult crepe is to sew and asking how I was planning to tackle it. Then I read that it continues to shrink. This scared me. I will make it up in the next few weeks. I've only washed the fabric once so far. Next time I will measure beforehand and if there is more shrinkage,  I will wash again,  otherwise not. I didn't think polyester shrunk but apparently it is to do with the twisted yarn which is the main feature of crepe.

 

So I went back to B5951. We've had a bit of a heat wave here and I'd like to have a dress I can wear. I didn't have the opportunity to ask Lyn about the fit of the muslin but went ahead and made the alterations I felt necessary. Really mainly length, though this affected the special darts at the front. There was nowhere marked for a length adjustment and I had to try to do it anyway. The armhole depth was also too low and I raised that.  I added 2" in two places to the front, so the straight portion of the dart was 2" longer.  I added 4" altogether to the back so the dart there is that much longer. I spent ages truing up the pattern.

Altered front

I decided not to make another muslin. Mistake!  I'm using a Liberty cotton and the newly designed top is awful. It doesn't fit - anywhere,  looks large and unflattering, giving me no shape. It adds 20lbs to me! It isn't wearable at all. DH said two things 1. You really need to lose weight and 2. That's not competition material. I agree with him on both counts. Do I give up or ask advice?  Well I think it has to be the latter since the fabric is Liberty! I'll ask next week at class and make a decision.

Rather more vintagy in feel than I usually use - I tend to prefer solids.

So I'm not entering this contest and probably won't enter any for months more;  these two appealed. It was unfortunate that they overlapped in their timing. For these two, I planned to make garments I needed and would actually wear. In other words, fitting in with my plan.

 

I realise,  too,  that I have such a lot to learn. I can't just pick up a pattern and run with it.  True, a lot of this is due to fitting issues. However, I find that the patterns don't give the kind of good finishing instructions I'm looking for and I don't yet know what techniques and materials to use.  So I reckon I'll continue with the college course next year if it's still running.

 

I'm the type of person who performs well with deadlines (a bit of a procrastinator!) which is why I've entered these contests - they provide encouragement. At least I was - my approach has changed since I retired and deadlines don't suit me so well now! I also take on too many things - something has to give!

 

Taking on too many things includes the number of different patterns. I need to stick to and perfect one or two rather than scatting around all over the place. I know this but somehow as I don't really like the final iteration of a garment - I find loads of faults - I don't feel like making it again. I'm going to try to change, though!

 

In my college techniques class, we have to make a simple garment and I think I'll go back to basics. And do it well. Not a dress - a skirt, I think. I previously had an unsuccessful run with Simplicity 2475

(review here) so might try that again, even though I rated the pattern as mediocre! I actually have the muslin from the previous time but it probably won't fit. I think it'll be a fairly decent starting point. It has princess seams, contoured waistband and kick pleats with underlay. I might look for an alternative as I found the pleats difficult - not helped by an incorrect marking - and feel they are a bit too formal for my casual day to day life. I'll think about it. My fabric choice would be better now, too. I have 1 more week before I need to submit my plan.

 

In the college pattern cutting class I need to make trousers (that fit)  and that fits in well with my goals - I plan to make capris for golf. I haven't yet got a well fitting toile though. I have knock knees but much worse on the left side where I have a painful and swollen knee. I've had to alter my toile to account for this but basically this means that I need separate patterns for each leg. I did make up a toile then realised I'd forgotten to add seam allowances so I shouldn't have been surprised when it was far too tight!

 

I feel less frustrated than I thought I would. Overall my main feeling is relief. I have a few golf tasks for tomorrow's big competition (and I'm involved all day from 8am to 7pm plus I'm playing), a portfolio which is very far from up to date, blog posts not posted and a very untidy sewing room aka dining room. So that'll get sorted rather than flogging a dead horse. There's no way I could've got them all done.  Plus I was due to watch a big professional event finishing today on my course but DH needs to complete his course portfolio for tomorrow - he's been tied up with garden shed roof repair in the last few days, with some help from me in lifting the very heavy roof back on - he doesn't usually leave things until the last minute, so I think I'll give it a miss. I've seen some of it already and there is some TV coverage on Sky Sports.  It's amazing to see our course on TV - it's difficult to recognise the hole they're playing as the views are not those seen by a player. Well,  the ones I know anyway!