A Pair of Kimonos finished (New Look 6217) and things not made

A Pair of Kimonos from New Look 6217

My plans for Christmas sewing were scaled way down. A number of reasons for this - illness, various household appliances breaking down,  initial over commitment etc. Initially the plan was for a ‘DIY’ Christmas but to be honest, that rarely (read never) works out! I tried,  though. David did too  - he framed sewing photos for my sewing room (temporarily a dining room again) and a photo of Tammy,  Alison's previous cat for Alison; Alison made some nice spice mix for everyone,  in addition to their present and Joanne gave Alison a manicure (that is actually did it). Helen made Anthony a photo album from their honeymoon,  and Helen and Anthony framed some wedding photos for my mother. So quite a lot of DIY, really. I made kimonos for Joanne and Alison,  cushions for Joanne and an infinity scarf for my mother. More of that later. 

I didn't make:

Shirt for David

A shirt for David - not started. I love the fabric and will make this shirt next year. Possibly for his birthday. David chose the fabric so I know he likes it. I'm not sure what pattern to use as yet. I did buy one from Thread Theory but haven't looked at it yet (it's a PDF)

Cargo Shorts

My initial idea came from a fabulous pair of really well made shorts I saw in an outlet store, very reasonably priced, but the wrong size for Steven. He and Anthony wear shorts a lot. So I thought about making some for our DIY Christmas.I asked and was told by their wives, my daughters,  that this would be entirely suitable. These cargoes were going to tick the DIY box, be a useful make, extend my trouser making skills and I would have entered the PR menswear contest, which has just finished; I wouldn't have been able to get a photo of them being worn.

Helen suggested bright - yellow - and I got the fabric but clearly she had made an error of judgement! She didn't get back with sizes and when I asked,  it's clear that Anthony didn't fancy. I'm not surprised! Unfortunately after I tracked down a suitable zip! I bought fabric for Steven’s but didn't pursue; his was standard chino fabric.

I was planning to use the pattern in one of the GBSB books as I find I tend not to think about book patterns. I abandoned both. Possibly,  probably, for ever. Well,  it's easier just to buy something! I'm not going to commit to DIY for next year - unless as David suggested I start in February.

Tartan Skirt; Silk Dress

I also, once again,  abandoned a tartan pleated skirt for Helen as she's not yet sure what style she wants. She asked me to hack her favourite red silk dress and I'm doing that but it won't be ready until after Christmas as she needed to try on the toile, which I managed to make up quickly (it was already cut out) and we've made some minor changes. I plan to start on that next week.

Kimonos

Joanne asked me to make a kimono like Helen's. 

I struggled to find suitable fabric. I got some that is possibly suitable but not the same type of fabric as Helen's, which would have been better,  and a bit late - but in the course of my searches I found some ‘China silk’ which I thought would make a fabulous kimono. Black with flowers for Joanne. They also had turquoise with dragonflies  - perfect for Alison who loves turquoise and dragonflies!

I originally got the New Look pattern free with Sew magazine. I looked out the pattern - but the kimono pieces weren't there. For Helen's I had traced the pattern and I couldn't find that either. Helen doesn't have them. I decided I had no real option other than to buy a replacement pattern, fortunately at half price. Murphy's Law says that I would then find the mislaid pattern but I haven't yet!

Helen's kimono was lengthened in body and arms and that's what Joanne wanted. However, this fabric is narrow and I wasn't able to lengthen the sleeves more than about 3 cms. I tried but it didn't work. I only slightly lengthened the body as I felt the body and sleeve lengths should be in proportion.

I made Joanne's kimono first. This fabric has no silk in it! It's polyester, pure and simple, I would say. I did an accidental burn test with my iron which I felt showed this. Rory did a proper burn test and agreed. The fabric is stiffer and less drapey than I'd hoped. However, both fabrics were bought for the design so I'm not really worried. One issue with Joanne's is that the vendor gave me two pieces of fabric and it is clear they are from different batches as the striped lining is different, the stripes different widths,  though I can't see any difference on the face of the fabric. I used one piece for the back and the other for the two fronts. I don't think it's noticeable. A warning for the future.

With Joanne's kimono, because of the amount of fraying,  I decided to overlock all the edges before construction. This turned out to be a mistake.  As the fabric doesn't press well,  I found it very difficult to get the open seams to lie flat and in the end decided to overlock the two sides together.

There were no major construction issues. I did something wrong with the back neck band meaning that it was slightly narrower than the front bands and this made the top stitching more difficult,  that is to get it even. I overlocked the outside edge of the facings rather than make a hemmed edge. I did slightly lengthen sleeves and body but apart from what I've already mentioned,  I followed the directions. I used interfacing in the band but felt it wasn't really necessary. I later asked advice at class and decided to miss out for the next rendition.

I like the final kimono, even though it's not perfect. I hope Joanne likes it. Oh,  I used ordinary black Guterman thread throughout and didn't have any stitching problems.

When I bought the turquoise dragonfly fabric for Alison, I had no clear idea what I was going to make as Alison told me she didn't like kimonos so I asked her what she wanted. I sent some pattern images. She decided she also wanted a kimono as she likes Helen's too.

I considered doing a full bust adjustment for Alison's.  In the end, I decided simply to lengthen the front edges;  I felt there was enough width that no extra was required. I decided against using interfacing. This time, I didn't overlock the edges before construction. That worked relatively well,  though there was quite a bit of fraying by the time I reached my last seam! I found matching the pattern difficult as the pattern match was oblique rather than straight.

While constructing, I accidentally sewed the front bands onto the back neck band wrongly. At least I think I did!  The notches didn't match. I altered to the way I felt it should be. I don't know if I did Joanne's wrongly too - that could explain why there was a problem with the band. Then, when attaching the bands, one attached in a puckered way and ended up too short so I had to unpick. As with Joanne's, I understitched but as I mentioned, this fabric really doesn't press well. I considered topstitching too - there is topstitching on hems and in from the edge so perhaps it wouldn't have been out of place but decided against it. It's also more difficult to match the turquoise than the black!

Grey overlocking thread used here - great match

You can see the mismatched stripes.

About thread matching - I agonised (no,  you're right,  I didn't!) over the choice of colour for the overlocker. I didn't want to buy any new ones. In the end, I went with grey which is a fabulous match! Now, I believe it when people say you only need black, white,  grey threads. The grey is closer to the reverse of the fabric than the blue I used to sew the seams.

I was working on it a bit last night while watching the Strictly final. I don't usually try to sew while watching TV.  This wasn't sewing, just pinning and tacking hems.  I didn't get it fully completed last night so finished it today.

I thought I'd use a metallic machine embroidery thread for all the topstitching as I thought it would be better to have that hint of metallic with the shiny fabric than just matt thread. I ‘auditioned’ 4 threads and decided to go with the machine embroidery thread. I had no end of bother, despite having tried it out before I decided to use it. I had problems with tension, with looping, with missed stitches. I had it in,  out and in again. It was still awful (I should have taken some photos but was too stressed!). Interestingly, the hem and sleeve hems had been okay and the first front band was acceptable. In the end,  worried about the fabric getting damaged, I unpicked the lot and redid with a standard Mettler thread. Much better. I had problems unpicking the embroidery thread as it snarled in the fabric so I couldn't pull out a long strand, and wonder if it was the combination of twisted thread and this fabric that led to the sewing problems. I'd love to get advice or hear thoughts on this.

I hope Alison will like hers. When I was unpicking and saw how easily snagged this fabric is, it occurred to me that it's perhaps not the best choice for a cat owner! Thomas the cat is visiting for the first time this Christmas, so we'll see! I have quite a bit of extra fabric of both the black and the turquoise but no plans to use them again at present. Thoughts anyone? Ideas can certainly include just getting rid of it! 

I've finished but it's dark. I'll take some photos tomorrow but do I post tomorrow or wait until I can have photos with Alison and Joanne wearing them? Not sure. The post is ready now except for photos and titles.

Addendum

It's after Christmas! I'm writing this on Boxing Day. Joanne and Alison both liked their kimonos. I would say that Alison's, in particular, is a perfect fit.

Their Gran agreed to pose, wearing the infinity scarf I made her

Alison's cat, Thomas, hasn't really settled so he's being taken home tomorrow,  earlier than planned. He hasn't been crying or distressed just not sociable and has spent quite a lot of time sleeping/hiding under the bed. 

I managed to get photos of Alison and Joanne in the kimonos. Helen was away by this time - but hadn't brought her kimono with her in any case.

I'm sad to see everyone go - but also relieved as I find it more  difficult as I get older to cope with the noise, the mess and,  to be honest,  the amount of extra work. My Mum is here for an extra week,  though. 

Top 5 Hits, Misses, Reflections of 2015 and Goals for 2016

I decided to look at hits and misses from this last year, as championed by Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow. Thank you, Gillian! The idea was to post the top 5 in each category. I wasn't altogether sure that I had a total of 5 items from the whole year,  far less 5 in any one of these areas. Indeed I've only reviewed 9 items on PR  the year; that's only new items made from scratch. There are some things that were such wadders that they didn't make it as far as blogging or in some cases past toile stage and these aren't included. Not a lot of sewing, you'd be right in thinking. I was,  I admit,  shocked!  After all,  I started sewing to make myself garments that fit - and I started doing sewing classes to learn how to make those garments - and I started pattern cutting classes to learn how to make the patterns for those garments, to make sure they fitted!

A lot of my time has been spent in course work, doing samples and in developing patterns for Helen's wedding. As a result, as I have so little,  I'm combining all the sections in one post.

It's interesting that my successful items are mainly for other people. I enjoy sewing for others (by that I mean family).  It's easier to fit someone else rather than yourself - and especially when that person doesn't have the same figure anomalies creating fitting difficulties.

Hits

1.Skirt for my youngest daughter Helen. Style 1981.

She tells me she wears it often, it appears to fit well and I was pleased to be able to salvage my mother's fabric.

2 Kimono for Helen. New Look 6217

Rear view to show it twirl

She wears this to death or at least did during the summer. Loves it. It was easy to make,  too.

3 McCall's 6844 for me

I've worn this regularly. I like the colour as it's useful. Next time,  though,  and there will be a next time, I'll make the straight version rather than the peplum version. Maybe in navy.

4 Jeans for husband.

Jeans in his favourite green

These were far from perfect but DH wears them regularly, so that counts as a success. They were self drafted and I think that was a step too far; I would have been better starting with a commercial pattern

I learned a lot of techniques in my jeans making class and in making these and feel more confident about making more jeans. I have more of the same fabric to make another pair,  perfecting the fit issues. I wouldn't use my drafted pattern,  though - I've since bought the Kwik Sew men's jeans pattern and will use that. Is have to go back to toile stage again,  of course.

5 Does this count as number 5? By far my most successful garments this year,  that get worn ALL the time are RTW garments that I have altered to fit. I didn't really enjoy altering things as often it seems it would be easier to start from scratch! However, I have a great sense of achievement and satisfaction to produce a wearable garment from something that wasn't. My altering skills have increased a lot. There are lots of future candidates.

Some of these items were new,  never worn that needed fit alterations. Others were items that had developed faults - the commonest was that a seam hasn't been overlocked properly and a hole had appeared. One top, though, had developed an actual hole in the fabric. My repair and disguise isn't great and I don't think I'll be wearing that out of the house.

I feel that RTW is a misnomer as they're not,  for me at least. Off the peg, okay.

There isn't a ‘proper’ number 5. I have some successful wedding related toiles, successful class samples and some successful craft items, and if course my very successful remodelling of my small dressmaking model, Missy, for Helen but I guess these don't count here.

Misses

1 Liberty print dress. Butterick 5951

Inside of dress

Just - no!

I didn't like anything about this dress. The style didn't work; I had problems with altering and sewing the darts to look good after trying to alter the fit and the colour was just not me. It has gone! I also gave away the rest of the beautiful fabric - lovely touch and feel that is, not the colour or pattern. I'm not a Liberty print type of gal - I don't like little bitty floral prints (on me) - I have,  however,  recently bought a couple of Liberty geometric prints. The fabric is beautiful to touch and in handle and I think the pattern is more me,  while,  true,  being a pattern rather than plain.

2 Blue Capstan dress Simplicity 1418

The dress was too small to put on my model

I was pleased with this dress which I made to practice some techniques. I intended it for Helen and used her usual pattern size and alterations - but it was much too small. I say her usual size - this clearly varies between pattern companies, despite their sizes being quoted on the envelope. The ease obviously varies.  Helen is a RTW 8/10 (UK). i started making items for her using a pattern size 12.  One thing drowns her, one is just right and this is miles too small! Just as well I now have Missy and some decent measurements.  My daughter is planning to donate this dress to a very petite friend.

I like the dress and style and considered it for the starting point of the bridesmaids’ dresses I'm making but am worried about the sizing so it's probably easier to draft from block. Both the bridesmaids need FBAs; I've made them both blocks (slopers) and need to make up and test the toiles (muslins) over Christmas.

3 Blouses - New Look 6407

I don't like the fabric; it fits better now but still...

I came 2nd in PR competition with this one

I just don't feel comfortable in these blouses so really don't wear them. I guess the fit needs further tweaked. There are fabric issues,  too - I find the blue fabric too thin and lacking in body, I think I'll make a standard shirt style next time instead of the lowered neckline which I don't like despite that being what attracted me to this style in the first place. I've made up practice shirts in class and now feel more confident that I could end up with a really good looking shirt. My burrito yoke was fabulous!  I learned how to insert piping and feel pretty confident about that now, too.

Jury's out!

There's only 1 item left on my list of 9! The jury's out with that.  Vogue 8646. It was the garment I made for my class in the summer and I didn't get it back from marking until the new academic year started in September, so I haven't had the opportunity to wear it.

Reflections

1 Skills

My skills have increased enormously. I feel ready to tackle just about anything.  I'm honoured to have been asked by Helen to make her wedding dress, though I'm terrified too! I'm designing the pattern rather than using a commercial pattern so my pattern cutting skills are useful here,  as are the contacts I've made - I'm getting help and support.

2 College course

9 garments!  Only one really wearable for me!  My sewing has taken a wrong turn! The biggest issue for me is that I feel my college course is not taking me in the right direction and I have to jump through their hoops to meet their requirements which are,  quite simply,  not mine. I don't mind the work. I like an element of structure. It's great to have expert tutors on hand to help.  BUT Pattern cutting,  whether flat or by draping,  appears to have been dropped for the moment at least. Pattern cutting was my main reason for starting my college career!  Last year we also had dressmaking techniques,  which have been covered in terms of shirt making - yokes, cuffs,  plackets,  collars,  which is good but not the area I need at present. Of course, last year ended on a high with me getting distinction in both of the coursers I did (only one course this year). Funding constraints mean that courses have to concentrate on entering this area as a business - well,  just no! Design, okay, but that's as far as go. (I did suggest that in fact I had a company with a very limited clientele consisting only of family!) I'm retired, have no business aspirations and want to make a good job of my hobby. I can't see me returning next year unless things change a lot.

We're only one term into the three term course so things might will change.

3 Fabric

When I started sewing, I quickly built up a fabric stash. A lot of this fabric was bought at a good price - although I didn't like some of it at all,  I thought it would be good for toiles - I make a LOT of toiles! However,  I now find I buy cotton calico specifically to make toiles. Some of the fabrics are polyester ‘suiting’, not suitable for toiles I find now, and very hard on shears, blades and needles. I will never make them into garments for me. Gillian alluded to the need for heavy duty deodorant - well,  yes!  It may be a consequence of ageing or perhaps of illness but I'm finding that I can’t tolerate synthetic or stretch fabrics, a change over recent months. So a major de-stash is coming up.

I'll use natural fabrics next year - probably not exclusively.

One very successful fabric area was getting our tartan woven and since then, getting it printed onto silk. I'll blog about that in due course.

4 Tools

The right tools make the job so much easier!

My stars of 2015:

Clips - great for pinning the bag layers together.

Micro serrated shears - purchased on Black Friday so new,  but fabulous! I saw these recommended for cutting slippery fabrics and am glad I followed the recommendation.

The fabulous pattern weights David made for my birthday. Just that. Fabulous.

Edgestitch and quarter inch with guide feet

5 Unselfish sewing

My husband gets mad when I promise something or other, without having been asked. He says I should be concentrating on myself. This was before I agreed to make the wedding dress etc. However,  I actually enjoy sewing for my family.  It's so much less stressful than sewing for myself! I'm not going to change that.

Goals and plans for 2016

There will be more selfish sewing! First,  though,  I have to get the wedding out of the way!  I won't be blogging about garments for the next six months. Then hopefully I can show off my makes. I might be able to share some of my mob outfit  development - my MOB outfit  is my class project. I need to work on that quite a bit over the Christmas holidays, work on a few samples and develop the pattern. I've been ill, not fully recovered yet,  and have fallen behind.

Wedding

Wedding dress - no further info here!

2 x bridesmaids’ dresses - creating fitting blocks and modifying to create dresses

Waistcoat for groom - using a heavily altered commercial pattern. The third toile is pretty decent.

MOB outfit - design and make. Probably dress and jacket. Dupion silk.

Skills I need to get under my belt:

Working with fine fabrics - satin, lace, tulle, silk etc

Welt pockets (for waistcoat)

Fine narrow hems (?) for dresses above

No doubt there are others!

After wedding

I was successful in altering Missy to fit Helen and need to alter my new model to fit me. Then sewing for me! Trousers and smart casual jackets are on my radar. I've enjoyed making some craft items,  including a bag (will blog after Christmas) and will do some more.

We also want to downsize and move south. Any recommendations, please? We want to be within easy travelling distance, preferably by train, of Cambridge and London. I want to be able to attend courses and exhibitions in London! I'd like the town to have a library, a post office, a doctor's surgery, local shops and decent transport. Maybe a local. Also within easy travelling distance,  a golf course and a sewing bee, not necessarily college course - could go to London for that. Not in London,  though - too expensive. I need something larger than a postage stamp! A house with a granny flat would be ideal.

RTW Fast; MAGAM Challenege

I don't think I will commit to this next year. There are some items that I can buy much more cheaply than I can possibly make - and I'm not talking about disposable fashion here. Tee shirts for example. They don't inspire me to make them,  anyway.  If by some miracle I found a well fitting garment, that I liked, of any description, I would buy it - no hesitation. I don't want to have to turn down a really good bargain, either, as I did this year. If I end up buying my MOB outfit, so be it. I can't sew fast enough to keep up with my garment needs - but I will continue to try. I just can't buy trousers. Or dresses, jackets… (so buying MOB outfit extremely unlikely!). I've bought much less this year and spent less time shopping. I do need to look in shops and try on different styles as part of my design journey.

MAGAM challenge - I love the idea but haven't achieved and maybe shouldn't aspire to this. Will see what happens in the second half of the year.

Health

I've been quite ill. Unfortunately the medication prescribed has disagreed with me, making me feel even more ill; that's stopped as a result of the side effects and they have greatly diminished but next year we'll be looking for some further treatment. I have a minor cold and it's knocked me for six, probably as a result of the depot steroid injection impacting on my immune system.

I was due to be going to the German Christmas markets tomorrow, for a few days,  and have had to cancel as I'm not well enough. I haven't been playing golf - the main part affected by the inflammatory arthritis is left hand. This is a chronic condition. Maybe I won't play golf again?  I've had to ask that question. I hope I can but I have to be prepared if I can't. I need to find ways to exercise (sewing doesn't work for that!) and to get my weight and cholesterol down.

Today I was at our ladies’ golf group Christmas lunch. We are a very select group now - only 8 of us!  I had pheasant for the first time ever. Some of the others had played a few holes before the lunch - in tee-shirts! It's once more unseasonably mild. My car was reading 16 deg C. Interestingly,  that was the temperature one year to the day before Helen's wedding!

Tonight is the Strictly Come Dancing final. I've loved the dresses. I'm not sure who I want to win;  it's pretty close this year,  I think. All down to the public tonight! I'll vote if I feel strongly about one of the couples. Looking forward to an evening watching. I'm posting this in the break between rounds - not as I thought it was going to go!! We'll see at 9pm who is leaving. Oh, and I did vote! I'm excited.

Best wishes for a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Anne x

Kimono - New Look 6217

I said I'd post photos of the kimono I made for my youngest daughter H when she sent them. She sent three from her iPhone tonight.

She told me on the phone that she hasn't had it off her back and is very keen for me to make her more - or to make for herself. She is very keen to take up sewing but her fiancé hasn't been keen due to their considerable shortage of space and the fact that she took a large piano with her and doesn't play it enough perhaps to justify its presence. She told me that she'd like to over-rule that and take up the offer of a sewing machine from me. She's clear that she wouldn't let the paraphernalia run away with her! (Yeah) She's been looking at wedding dresses and bridesmaids' dresses and is keen to help. Of course, she actually knows nothing at all about sewing at the moment - she didn't get any at all at school and of course I didn't teach her. Though my middle daughter reminds me that we once together made a rag doll which she still treasures. She hopes to sign up for a beginner sewing class in London where she lives - there's plenty of choice there, but cost is a big issue. She and her fiancé are trying to break into the housing market but finding it very hard going. Their first accepted offer was for a flat that lenders wouldn't give them a mortgage for, so they couldn't go ahead with it though they thought it was a great buy. They can get a mortgage for an appropriate property (lenders' definition of appropriate of course). Unfortunately, while they have had their offer on another flat accepted, I still wouldn't be able to stay there when I visit them.

My daughter has come into professional contact with a dress designer who offered to design her wedding dress - but she declined, saying she already had a designer! (Me, with her help!). I told her she should have accepted - but her reasons for not doing so are sound. Besides, she is very keen on the family related, heirloom tradition.

Anyway, back to the kimono. In February, we went together to the Knitting and Stitching Show at Olympia and H chose fabric that she fancied made up as a kimono. I had a few kimono patterns that I'd picked up, mainly coming free with magazines. Eventually, I got around to offering her a choice of patterns and she chose New Look 6217, though she requested that the body and arms be lengthened as much as possible (she was aware that there were limitations as to what was possible). She is 6' tall and slim, UK size 10.

The fabric she chose was a knit, a polyester jersey, I assume, though I'm not sure. It is patterned on one side and black on the other. It isn't hugely stretchy, but I was a little concerned that it wouldn't work for this pattern. The pattern match was huge!

I lengthened the body pattern by 10 inches, initially, but due to a measuring error the end body length was only 6 inches longer than the pattern. This was really just as well as I'm not sure I could have got the additional length fitted into the fabric - the width being the limiting factor. She said she'd like the sleeves three quarter length if possible. I lengthened them to the size 22 mark, but felt that going further could compromise the design. I had to modify the sleeve shape slightly.

The biggest issue was trying to get the pattern on the fabric to match at the front. I didn't manage that but I did cut out the back, which was on the fold, so that a large design was in the centre.

I used a conventional sewing machine to sew. Then, however, after reinforcing the fairly sharp bend underarm, I decided to overlock this area - and while I was at it everything else too! This worked nicely, using black thread. Also, to give her maximum length, I simply overlocked and turned the hem.

It turned out very nicely and H loves it. It was really nice to do some easy sewing that didn't require to be fitted, endlessly, while I was in the middle of coursework.

I had it ready to take down to London when I went for my birthday and she wore it that evening and says she hasn't had it off since. On my birthday, she wore it with a black outfit and I like that better than the red in the photo I'm showing here.

I could consider making one for me, too. I only have one project on the go at the moment - a dress that I'm trying to alter fit to suit. I need to decide whether to try this on my own just now, or wait and try something else, like this kimono perhaps. (no college now until September)

I have some nice stretch lace fabric which would look good and is in H's colours s I might try that as I wasn't sure what to do with this fabric. I picked it up on a whim while shopping in Mandors in Glasgow. If H does become serious about sewing, as she says she'd like to, she can't afford impulse buying!"

I also put in a review to Pattern Review, as I hadn't completed anything in ages.