Groom's Waistcoat - burda 3403

Anthony and Helen asked me to make Anthony a waistcoat for the wedding. Anthony asked for this to be tartan, in our family tartan which we'd had specially woven in medium weight wool (I've spoken of this before). However, he then explained he wanted the tartan at the back of the waistcoat, the idea being that once he was part of our family,  he'd take off the jacket with a bit of flare and surprise everyone with its unique back.

I agreed but suggested that as waistcoats usually have a silk back we'd try to get silk printed with the tartan. It's a long story, and not mine to tell (though interesting!). Kate (of Fabrickated) suggested a couple of UK companies which might help. There appear to be more now. David was in charge of this part. Lacuna Press printed the tartan pattern provided by David onto the silk twill I chose, after sampling various silks. We first bought a sample of the printed fabric following which we slightly altered the colours and scale, making the patterns smaller which I thought would fit better with a waistcoat.

I chose a suitable pattern (burda 3403) and made a number of toiles using version 'A' from the pattern envelope until we were happy with the fit.

Overall, Anthony preferred a slimmer and slightly longer style than the original shape.  We kept the 5 buttons. I finally made up a complete waistcoat, complete with buttons and pockets and rear belt and fasteners. This fitted well and we were good to go. I completely redrew the main waistcoat and lining pieces so I wouldn't get confused with the changes I had made. I didn't ever intend to make the waistcoat pattern from scratch.

We looked for suitable fabric for the front of the waistcoat. Anthony and Helen found the perfect fabric in Joel & Son. Anthony, the best man Alex and the ushers would be wearing ties in Cambridge blue and the chosen fabric, a beautiful wool and silk blend, matches beautifully. I must say I continued to have a bit of a concern that they would clash - until I actually saw them together on the day of the wedding. I needn't have worried. In Joel & Son they also bought the lining for the waistcoat and the main fabric for the bridesmaids' dresses, which were also going to be in Cambridge blue.

Why Cambridge blue? Anthony and Helen are Cambridge graduates and Anthony has a Cambridge Blue (awarded to those who represent the University in sport at the highest level including playing against their big rivals, Oxford). Anthony was a successful international fencer (he isn't now fencing internationally) and gained a Full Blue for fencing. I hope I have the correct terminology here - I haven't checked up the details.  He has a Cambridge blue blazer which to me seems a lot paler and more blue than the shade we have (which I see as green and others as various shades of blue, silver, green, grey.) Several other members of the wedding party were also fencers, including Anthony's brother who regrettably just failed to gain a place on the GB fencing team for the Rio Olympics. Helen also played sport for the university. 

Time to start the waistcoat! 

I had great difficulty making the first cut!  This was at the time the most expensive fabric I had ever used. My tutor Lyn and the other ladies in the sewing class were all encouraging me to go ahead. Lyn pointed out I had tested the pattern, redrawn, checked and just needed to do it.  So I did. Scary! That was a key moment in this whole process.

There isn't a great deal to say about making up the pattern. Instructions weren't brilliant but adequate, particularly as I had Lyn to ask for advice.  She's shown me a few techniques not mentioned in the instructions which improve the finish. The main fabric behaved well. I followed some written advice about how to bag out the waistcoat lining in addition to Lyn's advice and she explained how important it is to ensure there is no excess lining, trimming any excess off so that it lies properly inside. I used interfacing as suggested. All the edges were understitched.

Of course I had a few problems. None insurmountable, though.

• I was ironing the creases out of the custom printed silk and got water stains! I couldn't believe how dirty they were, even though my iron is new.   I was horrified but we washed it, after pressing on the right side on the hottest setting it could take as per FAQs, and it was fine. 
• I had to redo one of the facings
•  I accidentally cut through one of the welts when snipping a thread with my so sharp scissors. I had no choice but to replace - I replaced both and slightly modified and improved how I did it. Fortunately I had enough of the fabric to replace the bits that needed replaced.
• When I was making the toiles I got confused with the turning through of the lining at the end so I needed to have advice available. That's why I needed both the books, with diagrams and Lyn's advice on hand
•  I made imprints of the darts on the front of the waistcoat but these disappeared

I had more difficulty with the slippery silk for the back. David helped me lay it out flat and even and secure for cutting. I had to ensure that the appropriate pattern line was at the centre back of the waistcoat and that the waistcoat was perfectly symmetrical around this. This took some time but I think I succeeded pretty well. I practised with some off cuts and started my sewing with the belt.

It was difficult to match thread and buttons to the fabric but we succeeded pretty well. The main thread is the same as that for the bridesmaid dresses. I chose a colour to fit in with the silk on the strap. (You may admire my pattern matching of the strap to the main body of the back!) Anthony chose a couple of sets of buttons and together we all chose the ones to actually go on the waistcoat. I had the buttonholes made (but not cut) and the buttons sewn on before I dared to cut the buttonholes - and then only after getting the tutor to check the positioning etc. Another scary time.

So the waistcoat was the first wedding garment completed. 

Front. On hanger

Back. On hanger

Back - on Missy!

Front - on Missy!

Anthony tried it on and it still fitted the way he wanted it to - too late to change anyway!! I'm showing him trying it on just before the wedding - he's wearing casual clothes.

I didn't get a chance to get a photo of Anthony and David together at the wedding but I believe there will be one from the official photographer. You can see the front in some of the photos.

I'm pleased with the waistcoat. It fits as it should and looks good. I'd be happy to make another. I learned a lot - not least to be braver and to try things.

As it happens, the weather stole Anthony's thunder!  It was so hot that he slipped off his jacket at the meal without any fanfare! I was glad we had sun and warmth after a poor start to the day - and even more glad when the next day was even nicer for our BBQ. 

After I brought the waistcoat back from the display of my work at the college last night (Anthony needs the waistcoat for a wedding they are attending immediately they get back from their own honeymoon) I checked it and realise there are some pulls in the fabric and some minor staining. I'll have to see what I can do with it. 

Does anyone want David to say more about the process of printing the silk?

Some people have told that they'd like more details about the wedding dress. Can you let me know if you would like that, please?

Also - I will be putting up another brief post about the bridesmaid dresses. As you know, I didn't actually do the final sewing but did do everything up to that stage. Alison commented how lovely it was for us all to design the dresses, personalise them and then get them to fit perfectly. So they will be on the blog.

More photos of the wedding will have to wait, I'm afraid. All photos here remain the property of their original owners!

Wedding update - waistcoat mainly and news about MOB outfit

I've had lots of support and kind comments about my wedding outfits journey. Thank you.

Today is a waistcoat update.

After looking at the laid out fabric (wool and silk) for future sil's waistcoat for a LONG time, too scared to cut it as this was by far the most expensive fabric I had ever used, my tutor and classmates convinced me I had to go ahead and make the first cut. That was a key moment in this whole process.

I'm using a Burda pattern - 3403 with a few modifications for fit. Slightly lengthened and made with less ease for A's preferred fit.

Instructions aren't brilliant but adequate,  particularly as I have Lyn to ask for advice.  She's shown me a few techniques not mentioned in the instructions which improve the finish.







Of course I've had a few problems. None insurmountable, though.

• I was ironing the creases out of the custom printed silk and got water stains! I couldn't believe how dirty they were, even though my iron is new.   I was horrified but we washed it, after pressing on the right side on the hottest setting it could take as per FAQs, and it was fine. 
• I had to redo one of the facings
• I accidentally cut through one of the welts when snipping a thread with my so sharp scissors. I had no choice but to replace - I replaced both and slightly modified and improved how I did it. Fortunately I had enough of the fabric to replace the bits that needed replaced.
• I have imprints of the darts on the front of the waistcoat so I need to work out how to get rid of them. Of course,  I shouldn't have had them there in the first place. I trust I can sort it! Any recommendations? 

I'm well on with the waistcoat now and hope to get it finished on Thursday.  A & H are coming for the weekend and it would be great to get that out of the way. The fabric has sewn nicely. Photos don't do justice to the colour. The wool/silk was bought from Joel and sons by A&H and they highly recommended the shop but I didn't have a good experience there when I went with Helen to buy her wedding dress fabric due to poor customer service - so somewhat variable. The fabric is beautiful - wool and silk.

I haven't cut out the silk yet.  I'm hoping to do that tomorrow (Sunday) when I have both time and daylight. It's going to be awkward as it's so slithery and the pattern will need to be kept symmetrical.

When I was making the toiles I got confused with the turning through at the end so I need to get far enough on to get help in my last class before Easter for that part. I'm happy to do the buttonholes after that.

What else have I been doing?

I've been continuing with the design and toiles for the wedding dress. I'm hoping to have a fairly complete toile for next weekend as I will be able to fit it on Helen. I don't have much opportunity to do that. We don't have the fabric yet but need to get that very soon now. We have a better idea of quantities now. I have samples from a selection of retailers.

I've finished making the pattern for Alison's bridesmaid's dress and plan to have a toile for next weekend when she's coming too. I won't see Joanne until after that.

I was getting on with my MOB outfit - I decided to submit that as my course final project, rather than the wedding dress which had been my original intention. I had two dresses - one to wear, princess seams,  contrast central panel overlaid with lace, and one to submit,  the pattern hack dress. I have a toile of the former and am making up the latter. 

However, I'm not wearing either to the wedding as I have bought an outfit! I've decided that the toile of the first, in a lovely turquoise crepe, will be ideal for the day after the wedding (I'll post when completed). It fits beautifully and I just need to ass a lining and finish off. I will complete the second in college and submit as my final project. I got the stretch lining in the post today - I couldn't buy it locally. 

My bought outfit isn't in the colour I originally intended (royal/cobalt blue) but David and I both liked it. It has taken a lot of pressure away from me. I need to get shoes and bag  - I'm looking for dark navy, I'll tell you that. Of course I would still have had accessories to buy for a dress I made for myself too.

• Lesson learned, I hope - sometimes even after following 'measure twice, cut once' you can still get it wrong!
• Oh, and I don't need to do everything!

Thank you for all your supportive comments - please keep them coming!

A waistcoat started and THAT dress!

I achieved another of my August goals.  I bought Burda 3403 with a view to making a waistcoat for my daughter's fiancé, A, as requested. I was given his sizes, which fall between the 38 and 40 and decided to make up a toile for him to try when I see him next.

This doesn't even show the waistcoat! 

I decided to cut out the 40. This really only involved the fronts and the back. I drew on the pocket, tabs and button/buttonhole positions. I made it up in ghastly white polyester fabric. No final fabric has been chosen - this is for size only, to give a later starting point.

My husband tried this pared down waistcoat on and reckons it will be a pretty good fit. It was okay for him, perhaps a touch neat, but he and A are about the same height (about 6') and DH has a slightly larger chest size, more 40 - 42". The length was good. A is an athlete and had a broad back so I can only wait and see.

Tonight, before posting this, I decided to look at any available reviews for the waistcoat. One review said the waistcoat was rather neat, the other that it was rather loose, so who knows! One suggested it was a difficult sew (it's labelled as 'average'), but at least I have some help available should I need it. Maybe I should have read the reviews before buying the pattern! It's a lot cheaper than the Vogue one, though. A hasn't seen it so I hope this is the style he had in mind. I do have another waistcoat pattern, but he did see that and felt it was too casual.

I made Butterick 5951, view A,

I do have a waist - really!

but disliked both the style and the colour. I couldn't do anything about the latter but wondered if anything could be done to improve the fit and appearance. R and D, who are designers and pattern fitters, run the sewing bee I attended and were happy to advise. They agreed that the fit was poor, felt the design was faulty and didn't like the colour on me. I suggested that the design might be faulty because I had made changes but they didn't agree. They looked at adding a sloping bust dart to give some much needed shape,  pulling in the sides,  removing the shoulder gathering which they felt was not in the right place - they would normally expect to see this coming from further forward,  from a yoke,  for example. Maybe other changes too - my head was swimming a little! And R felt there would still be some unwanted poufing at the sides. I said that I didn't want to spend a long time on it if it really wasn't worth it.  They suggested starting by taking the shoulder seam apart and they would be able to give a better idea.

My dress was fully lined (bagged), understitched etc., so taking apart was no small undertaking. They were surprised that the lining is basically a duplicate of the dress, complete with shoulder gathering. This gave a little extra flexibility.

However, D looked at me after I had taken the shoulder apart and she had examined and asked if I would actually wear the dress in that colour after I'd put in a great deal of work. 'Probably not'.  D suggested that I use the skirt and its lining and simply make up a waistband or facing. I've decided I will do this.

DH doesn't think the colour is even ideal for a skirt but we'll see. I could wear a maroon (or maybe it's Marsala, Pantone colour of the year!) top. I might wear it as a skirt - I was never going to wear as a dress - and I couldn't give it away as a dress because I didn't feel the style made sense and the dress looked unattractive even on the hanger.

So as of the end of today, one dress fewer, one dress more (for daughter -separate post), one potential skirt on the way, and the various toiles I mentioned in an earlier post well under way. I feel I'm becoming a little faster. Just as well!