A long time ago....

Those of you who have read my blog in the past will be aware that I have been trying to make a tartan skirt/ kilt for Helen, my youngest daughter, for yonks, using the family tartan we had specially woven; many many many yards of it (yes, that many!) We have two weights of the tartan - a heavy one woven many years ago (some of it made into a kilt for David) and a medium weight one woven two or three years ago or more specifically thinking about Helen's skirt. Yes, she requested it that long ago! Actually, it was even longer ago as she requested this using the heavyweight tartan before I started sewing, when we going to get it made. I can't quite remember. It took us a long time to decide that the heavyweight tartan was too heavy and to elect to get a medium weight cloth woven. The story of the tartan is here and in earlier blog posts.  Here, for example

The tartan

In the past, I have had two main attempts at tartan skirt toiles, using plaid fabric but not the real deal. It was slightly problematic as Helen wasn’t then, and still isn’t, exactly sure of the style she wants. She is clearer than she was though. She now wants ‘a cute pleated mini skirt’ in the family tartan.

The first toile was a fully pleated skirt. Narrow waistband. Pleats stitched down part way. Very classical. It was knee length and so was far too long for Helen’s taste, but it was designed to see if she’d like the style. 

Christmas 2015!! I didn't realise it was that long ago!

I didn't use a pattern, as that was the advice I got from books and in person from those who might know. At the time, I got the impression she didn’t like it but I think on reflection that was to do with the length; I thought I could just have made it shorter. She told me this week that the issues were that it wasn’t a mini skirt but also that it made her look very hippy on the side opposite the zip as it didn’t lie flat and the pleats seem to twist around (I thought it was too big at the waist when I saw her wear it previously but that was a while ago). She says she does like it, and it fits well at the waist, so she’s tempted to go for a shorter version of that. I didn't use a pattern, struggled a bit and wasn't at all happy with the zip closure, by far the weakest part. Helen held a Burn’s Supper in her flat at the weekend (yes, early!) and wore it then so her thoughts on the skirt are current.

The second toile was a shorter circular skirt - at that time, she hadn’t settled on pleats. I used a commercial pattern. This just wasn't what she had in mind.

I have this pattern:

This has many good elements but Helen doesn't want a yoke like this and it's probably too long. Maybe it's still doable

Originally, she was against the idea of a proper kilt (or maybe that was us as kilts aren’t for girls in theory and by tradition at least) - but isn’t now. She has said too that she’d be happy with box pleats (but not like the pattern I showed her as she found that one frumpy). 

No to this

Modern Simplicity pattern; I don't have this pattern and I couldn't get any of the older ones.
I could buy this one but kilts are usually made directly on the fabric

She has recently bought a skirt from Pretty Little Things that she likes. I've seen a photo but not the real thing. It's fully pleated.

Helen tried on and liked a skirt from Jack Wills; she took photos of her trying on the size 10 (UK), a perfect fit, but didn’t buy it. I decided to buy it but unfortunately could only get a 12 so it will be going back after a bit of examination! It’s not on the website. I tried the 12 on Missy, the dressmaking model adapted to Helen's size (see here)  and it just slipped down below the waist onto the hip.

We're going to have a chat on the phone, but I think I’m clearer. I have already said to Helen that our tartan is a heavy wool and pleats will inevitably make it bulkier - and therefore make her look hippier. I also said that I thought the kilt-type closure is potentially better for fitting.

I have a pattern for a short full pleated skirt. 

It’s slightly long but could be shortened by the 2” required. A bigger issue is that although it is shown in tartan, the tartan repeat (the spacing of the checks) is not the same as ours. Therefore, I can’t really follow the pattern, though it might give me a better idea of how to proceed. When I made the previous full pleated version, I didn’t use a pattern and wasn't sure how to finish off. I had one long piece sewn together at one side, the zip side - maybe that’s why the skirt twists on wearing?

A big issue with pleating tartan for a woman is waist shaping. When I made the full pleated version, I carefully increased the depth of each and every pleat towards the top to try to achieve the reduction in width without compromising the pattern match. This took a long time and involved lots of calculations.

My preference is for a version of the Jack Wills kilted skirt. This has the kilt wrap at the front but there are two pleats each side of the plain wrap. The side seam is smooth for about 2” each side of the seam. No zip of course. The back then has two pleats plus a dart at each side, but the centre is smooth.

The JW skirt is pretty good but isn’t exactly matched - so perhaps that issue is less relevant to Helen than the overall ‘feel’ of the garment. Having the side seams free of pleats and using the darts will help with the shaping. Having just the two pleats allows me a far greater flexibility. The pleats can be 'any' width to fit in so I can match the pattern to the set size. In the full pleated version, the pleats had to match all the way around. A lot of calculation and experimentation and careful measurement. Of course, each tartan is different, so those calculations are worthless now.

Another issue is that I’d like the selvedge to form the bottom of the skirt as a hem would be bulky. This is traditional in kilts. I need to examine the tartan to see if this is possible. I won’t be doing that, though, until I am well into the process of pattern making and toileing.

I think I’ve decided what I want to do, unless Helen has a strong opinion to the contrary. I don’t think she does as she said ‘whatever is easiest’. I don’t have a pattern, so this may not be the easiest route, but think I can manage to create one. I hope I can manage. I asked for advice in sewing bee - and there are complexities I hadn't considered, mainly to do with shaping.  The RTW skirt has a curved hem and waistband. I tried to make a kind of pattern but it was difficult, even with help and the conclusion is that I'd be better doing straight from the fabric. I'd make up a toile of course. I have some pieces of plaid that will work for that. Just for the shape and rough size, not the pattern matching.

Any thoughts?

The best laid schemes...

I was at a funeral today. An old golfing friend and her husband, both in their 80s, died within a couple of days of each other and this was their double funeral. I haven't been to many funerals. The last I went to was my father's 18 months ago.

Fortunately, I looked out my clothes the night before the funeral. I decided to wear a dark plum suit which I have always liked. Unfortunately, the skirt was way too tight - a reminder of all the weight I have put on. I also didn't have a suitable top to wear with it. I looked through my wardrobe - I used to have a top with lilacs and plum in it which went well but that was thrown out on a previous wardrobe overhaul as it really didn't fit or flatter. I finally found a solid 'flesh' top which toned nicely while still being suitable for a funeral - but no matter, I couldn't wear it because of the skirt

I thought I had discarded the suit I wore to my father's funeral, but in fact I still had it. The reason I thought I had discarded it is that I had felt the jacket was too 'neat' ie bordering on tight and not comfortable. I've always liked this kind of fabric - a soft almost velour like material - I'm really not sure what it's called. The plum suit is the same material and I have a couple of jackets in the same. I really like it. It also seems to wear well - I've had these forever - and doesn't crush readily.

So I wore the suit, a 'soft' suit. This is what I looked like: I've tried to lighten to show more detail but black's not easy.





 

The jacket is too tight in the sleeves, and when the jacket is buttoned, there are obvious and unpleasant oblique folds. I know that these are saying I need more bust room. It's far too tight. I can't stretch forward without feeling I'm going to burst out. You can't see anything in the photos even though I tried to lighten the picture to show. The jacket is more comfortable when not buttoned, but you can see there is a substantial gap between the two edges when the suit is relaxed. My bust cup is at its fullest at present, probably, but this has clearly always been an issue. I take a D cup. Also the shoulders are perhaps rather 70s/80s.

 The skirt, I quite like. I've tended to wear my skirts shorter and more close fitting, which I think is more flattering, though. This skirt is comfortable - it actually has an elasticated waistband which is not at all noticeable until you come to put it on - I was looking for a zip. The length is quite awkward - I never know what type of shoe to wear with it. Perhaps a boot would have been appropriate. I can't manage heels of any height nowadays.

A detail I like on both the jacket and the skirt is the series of 3 pintucks across the skirt above the hem. Again, I was unable to show these on the photo. These are mirrored in the jacket.

This 'suit' was bought as separates. I remember there was also a pair of trousers but these were no use for me as they were way too short and there was no fabric to allow any lengthening.

I have been looking at the 'Vivienne Files' Starting from Scratch. Ideally with that, I start with a pair of trousers - probably grey, possibly navy. These cannot be finished for another couple of months as I will keep to the pace of my class - next term is trousers. I have suitable fabric, both wool and other.

I have navy wool, black wool and grey wool plus a black, grey and white plaid and another plaid with the same tones but some blue through it. They're still packed away so I can't photograph but the black, navy and grey are absolutely plain. Eventually, I would like to have a pair of trousers, a jacket and a skirt , at least one of each, that I can mix and match and that I can wear with other items. I have a work suit jacket in the wardrobe, which is a grey stripe, and might have fitted in but I don't think so - I cringed when I saw it again. I don't think I could wear it; it has a very unflattering fit. It's a typical men's suit like jacket. I don't feel it really goes with anything other than the trousers it was bought with (and the trousers don't fit properly, either). The fabric looks 'cheap'.

So, I reckon I need to push up a jacket in my sewing priorities. I'm not sure what to do, though - and would appreciate your advice. My husband thought I looked 'fine' by the way and felt that any tightness would be taken care of by the weight loss that is so desperately needed. Again, I'm not so sure. I don't believe the black jacket ever fitted properly. I remember trying it on with other things and always discarding. That's probably why it's lasted so long.

Any way, I have a few patterns to consider.

Simplicity 1542.

This is the most recent of the three. I have made the skirt a few times for DD2. I like view A, which has an overall silhouette similar to the black jacket I wore today. I wouldn't add the buttons. The skirt is an easy make, but the length here is too short by far for me and I'm not sure if a longer, knee length or longer, skirt would have the correct proportion. View C would also be a possibility. Definitely not B. I'm not a ruffly, frilly person.

Vogue 7668

Very Easy Very Vogue. This pattern isn't listed on Pattern Review etc - another pattern has the same number. I like this. The jacket cannot be made in a plaid or check. I had considered a plain dress maybe in grey and a checked jacket plus maybe a black or darker grey skirt. I don't have any patterned wool fabric other than the checks at present, though I could buy some. This is for lighter weight wool than I have, perhaps, too.

 McCall's 5761

Again, not listed on PR which has another pattern usurping its place. The jacket has a nice simplicity about it, but is 'not suitable for large checks, stripes or plaids'. There is no line drawing. I'm not sure how big a large check is. The skirt, of course, is too short at this length. Again, would the silhouette and proportion work if I lengthened this - or more likely used a different pattern

Are these last two too 80s?

Another possibility is a Chanel type jacket with straight skirt. I have Vogue 7975, but it's in the wrong size for me.

 

I also have various 'blazer' patterns
I'd like help in considering what to do. The trousers have to wait. The jacket needs to be fairly simple, though I have a couple of Craftsy jacket classes

If another funeral came up, I could still wear today's black outfit - and in a few months I should be able to fit back into the plum suit. So I don't need to create a 'funeral outfit'. I want a set of clothes that will work much harder than attending the occasional funeral.

So - HELP! Do you have any advice for me?

My heading today is of course the start of a line from our national poet, Rabbie Burns - and Burns' Night is coming up now very soon. The poem is 'To a Mouse' and the penultimate verse ends:

...

The best laid schemes o' Mice an' Men,
Gang aft agley,
An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,
For promis'd joy!

Today, one of my plans took a step forward, however.  I found the mill which previously wove the tartan for my husband's kilt - and it's still in existence and still weaving! And is pretty busy, too. Apparently , each mill has the 'rights' to weave only certain tartans - there is very complex ownership. As this mill previously wove our tartan (in the ancient, hunting version) - probably for the first and certainly for the last time in 2004 - it is able to do so again. There was a choice of 10oz, 13 oz or 16 oz fabric - we already have the latter. As we had to order a minimum quantity of 24 metres (!!), I had to consider carefully which weight would be best. Eventually, and after discussing with the helpful mill manager, I chose to order the medium weight. The tartan will take 12 weeks, so my daughter might have her skirt for Burns Night 2016! She's really excited. My husband pointed out to her that we will become the world repository for this tartan!