Top 5 Hits, Misses, Reflections of 2015 and Goals for 2016

I decided to look at hits and misses from this last year, as championed by Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow. Thank you, Gillian! The idea was to post the top 5 in each category. I wasn't altogether sure that I had a total of 5 items from the whole year,  far less 5 in any one of these areas. Indeed I've only reviewed 9 items on PR  the year; that's only new items made from scratch. There are some things that were such wadders that they didn't make it as far as blogging or in some cases past toile stage and these aren't included. Not a lot of sewing, you'd be right in thinking. I was,  I admit,  shocked!  After all,  I started sewing to make myself garments that fit - and I started doing sewing classes to learn how to make those garments - and I started pattern cutting classes to learn how to make the patterns for those garments, to make sure they fitted!

A lot of my time has been spent in course work, doing samples and in developing patterns for Helen's wedding. As a result, as I have so little,  I'm combining all the sections in one post.

It's interesting that my successful items are mainly for other people. I enjoy sewing for others (by that I mean family).  It's easier to fit someone else rather than yourself - and especially when that person doesn't have the same figure anomalies creating fitting difficulties.

Hits

1.Skirt for my youngest daughter Helen. Style 1981.

She tells me she wears it often, it appears to fit well and I was pleased to be able to salvage my mother's fabric.

2 Kimono for Helen. New Look 6217

Rear view to show it twirl

She wears this to death or at least did during the summer. Loves it. It was easy to make,  too.

3 McCall's 6844 for me

I've worn this regularly. I like the colour as it's useful. Next time,  though,  and there will be a next time, I'll make the straight version rather than the peplum version. Maybe in navy.

4 Jeans for husband.

Jeans in his favourite green

These were far from perfect but DH wears them regularly, so that counts as a success. They were self drafted and I think that was a step too far; I would have been better starting with a commercial pattern

I learned a lot of techniques in my jeans making class and in making these and feel more confident about making more jeans. I have more of the same fabric to make another pair,  perfecting the fit issues. I wouldn't use my drafted pattern,  though - I've since bought the Kwik Sew men's jeans pattern and will use that. Is have to go back to toile stage again,  of course.

5 Does this count as number 5? By far my most successful garments this year,  that get worn ALL the time are RTW garments that I have altered to fit. I didn't really enjoy altering things as often it seems it would be easier to start from scratch! However, I have a great sense of achievement and satisfaction to produce a wearable garment from something that wasn't. My altering skills have increased a lot. There are lots of future candidates.

Some of these items were new,  never worn that needed fit alterations. Others were items that had developed faults - the commonest was that a seam hasn't been overlocked properly and a hole had appeared. One top, though, had developed an actual hole in the fabric. My repair and disguise isn't great and I don't think I'll be wearing that out of the house.

I feel that RTW is a misnomer as they're not,  for me at least. Off the peg, okay.

There isn't a ‘proper’ number 5. I have some successful wedding related toiles, successful class samples and some successful craft items, and if course my very successful remodelling of my small dressmaking model, Missy, for Helen but I guess these don't count here.

Misses

1 Liberty print dress. Butterick 5951

Inside of dress

Just - no!

I didn't like anything about this dress. The style didn't work; I had problems with altering and sewing the darts to look good after trying to alter the fit and the colour was just not me. It has gone! I also gave away the rest of the beautiful fabric - lovely touch and feel that is, not the colour or pattern. I'm not a Liberty print type of gal - I don't like little bitty floral prints (on me) - I have,  however,  recently bought a couple of Liberty geometric prints. The fabric is beautiful to touch and in handle and I think the pattern is more me,  while,  true,  being a pattern rather than plain.

2 Blue Capstan dress Simplicity 1418

The dress was too small to put on my model

I was pleased with this dress which I made to practice some techniques. I intended it for Helen and used her usual pattern size and alterations - but it was much too small. I say her usual size - this clearly varies between pattern companies, despite their sizes being quoted on the envelope. The ease obviously varies.  Helen is a RTW 8/10 (UK). i started making items for her using a pattern size 12.  One thing drowns her, one is just right and this is miles too small! Just as well I now have Missy and some decent measurements.  My daughter is planning to donate this dress to a very petite friend.

I like the dress and style and considered it for the starting point of the bridesmaids’ dresses I'm making but am worried about the sizing so it's probably easier to draft from block. Both the bridesmaids need FBAs; I've made them both blocks (slopers) and need to make up and test the toiles (muslins) over Christmas.

3 Blouses - New Look 6407

I don't like the fabric; it fits better now but still...

I came 2nd in PR competition with this one

I just don't feel comfortable in these blouses so really don't wear them. I guess the fit needs further tweaked. There are fabric issues,  too - I find the blue fabric too thin and lacking in body, I think I'll make a standard shirt style next time instead of the lowered neckline which I don't like despite that being what attracted me to this style in the first place. I've made up practice shirts in class and now feel more confident that I could end up with a really good looking shirt. My burrito yoke was fabulous!  I learned how to insert piping and feel pretty confident about that now, too.

Jury's out!

There's only 1 item left on my list of 9! The jury's out with that.  Vogue 8646. It was the garment I made for my class in the summer and I didn't get it back from marking until the new academic year started in September, so I haven't had the opportunity to wear it.

Reflections

1 Skills

My skills have increased enormously. I feel ready to tackle just about anything.  I'm honoured to have been asked by Helen to make her wedding dress, though I'm terrified too! I'm designing the pattern rather than using a commercial pattern so my pattern cutting skills are useful here,  as are the contacts I've made - I'm getting help and support.

2 College course

9 garments!  Only one really wearable for me!  My sewing has taken a wrong turn! The biggest issue for me is that I feel my college course is not taking me in the right direction and I have to jump through their hoops to meet their requirements which are,  quite simply,  not mine. I don't mind the work. I like an element of structure. It's great to have expert tutors on hand to help.  BUT Pattern cutting,  whether flat or by draping,  appears to have been dropped for the moment at least. Pattern cutting was my main reason for starting my college career!  Last year we also had dressmaking techniques,  which have been covered in terms of shirt making - yokes, cuffs,  plackets,  collars,  which is good but not the area I need at present. Of course, last year ended on a high with me getting distinction in both of the coursers I did (only one course this year). Funding constraints mean that courses have to concentrate on entering this area as a business - well,  just no! Design, okay, but that's as far as go. (I did suggest that in fact I had a company with a very limited clientele consisting only of family!) I'm retired, have no business aspirations and want to make a good job of my hobby. I can't see me returning next year unless things change a lot.

We're only one term into the three term course so things might will change.

3 Fabric

When I started sewing, I quickly built up a fabric stash. A lot of this fabric was bought at a good price - although I didn't like some of it at all,  I thought it would be good for toiles - I make a LOT of toiles! However,  I now find I buy cotton calico specifically to make toiles. Some of the fabrics are polyester ‘suiting’, not suitable for toiles I find now, and very hard on shears, blades and needles. I will never make them into garments for me. Gillian alluded to the need for heavy duty deodorant - well,  yes!  It may be a consequence of ageing or perhaps of illness but I'm finding that I can’t tolerate synthetic or stretch fabrics, a change over recent months. So a major de-stash is coming up.

I'll use natural fabrics next year - probably not exclusively.

One very successful fabric area was getting our tartan woven and since then, getting it printed onto silk. I'll blog about that in due course.

4 Tools

The right tools make the job so much easier!

My stars of 2015:

Clips - great for pinning the bag layers together.

Micro serrated shears - purchased on Black Friday so new,  but fabulous! I saw these recommended for cutting slippery fabrics and am glad I followed the recommendation.

The fabulous pattern weights David made for my birthday. Just that. Fabulous.

Edgestitch and quarter inch with guide feet

5 Unselfish sewing

My husband gets mad when I promise something or other, without having been asked. He says I should be concentrating on myself. This was before I agreed to make the wedding dress etc. However,  I actually enjoy sewing for my family.  It's so much less stressful than sewing for myself! I'm not going to change that.

Goals and plans for 2016

There will be more selfish sewing! First,  though,  I have to get the wedding out of the way!  I won't be blogging about garments for the next six months. Then hopefully I can show off my makes. I might be able to share some of my mob outfit  development - my MOB outfit  is my class project. I need to work on that quite a bit over the Christmas holidays, work on a few samples and develop the pattern. I've been ill, not fully recovered yet,  and have fallen behind.

Wedding

Wedding dress - no further info here!

2 x bridesmaids’ dresses - creating fitting blocks and modifying to create dresses

Waistcoat for groom - using a heavily altered commercial pattern. The third toile is pretty decent.

MOB outfit - design and make. Probably dress and jacket. Dupion silk.

Skills I need to get under my belt:

Working with fine fabrics - satin, lace, tulle, silk etc

Welt pockets (for waistcoat)

Fine narrow hems (?) for dresses above

No doubt there are others!

After wedding

I was successful in altering Missy to fit Helen and need to alter my new model to fit me. Then sewing for me! Trousers and smart casual jackets are on my radar. I've enjoyed making some craft items,  including a bag (will blog after Christmas) and will do some more.

We also want to downsize and move south. Any recommendations, please? We want to be within easy travelling distance, preferably by train, of Cambridge and London. I want to be able to attend courses and exhibitions in London! I'd like the town to have a library, a post office, a doctor's surgery, local shops and decent transport. Maybe a local. Also within easy travelling distance,  a golf course and a sewing bee, not necessarily college course - could go to London for that. Not in London,  though - too expensive. I need something larger than a postage stamp! A house with a granny flat would be ideal.

RTW Fast; MAGAM Challenege

I don't think I will commit to this next year. There are some items that I can buy much more cheaply than I can possibly make - and I'm not talking about disposable fashion here. Tee shirts for example. They don't inspire me to make them,  anyway.  If by some miracle I found a well fitting garment, that I liked, of any description, I would buy it - no hesitation. I don't want to have to turn down a really good bargain, either, as I did this year. If I end up buying my MOB outfit, so be it. I can't sew fast enough to keep up with my garment needs - but I will continue to try. I just can't buy trousers. Or dresses, jackets… (so buying MOB outfit extremely unlikely!). I've bought much less this year and spent less time shopping. I do need to look in shops and try on different styles as part of my design journey.

MAGAM challenge - I love the idea but haven't achieved and maybe shouldn't aspire to this. Will see what happens in the second half of the year.

Health

I've been quite ill. Unfortunately the medication prescribed has disagreed with me, making me feel even more ill; that's stopped as a result of the side effects and they have greatly diminished but next year we'll be looking for some further treatment. I have a minor cold and it's knocked me for six, probably as a result of the depot steroid injection impacting on my immune system.

I was due to be going to the German Christmas markets tomorrow, for a few days,  and have had to cancel as I'm not well enough. I haven't been playing golf - the main part affected by the inflammatory arthritis is left hand. This is a chronic condition. Maybe I won't play golf again?  I've had to ask that question. I hope I can but I have to be prepared if I can't. I need to find ways to exercise (sewing doesn't work for that!) and to get my weight and cholesterol down.

Today I was at our ladies’ golf group Christmas lunch. We are a very select group now - only 8 of us!  I had pheasant for the first time ever. Some of the others had played a few holes before the lunch - in tee-shirts! It's once more unseasonably mild. My car was reading 16 deg C. Interestingly,  that was the temperature one year to the day before Helen's wedding!

Tonight is the Strictly Come Dancing final. I've loved the dresses. I'm not sure who I want to win;  it's pretty close this year,  I think. All down to the public tonight! I'll vote if I feel strongly about one of the couples. Looking forward to an evening watching. I'm posting this in the break between rounds - not as I thought it was going to go!! We'll see at 9pm who is leaving. Oh, and I did vote! I'm excited.

Best wishes for a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Anne x

Cardigan/jacket with peplum - McCall's 6844

Well,  I finally made something for myself! I hoped I would manage to write that 3 or 4 weeks ago! I've been ill so didn't manage as much as I'd hoped. Still, I didn't want to rush it just for the sake of finishing.

I'd have been happier with finished result if I looked like this model!

I've had this pattern, McCall's 6844 for ages. I like wearing a cardigan type top over a T-shirt or similar and I'd decided I needed a grey one. I have a couple of black ones - black is so useful but it's not really my colour. I have a few cardigan patterns - 2 McCall's and 2 Style Arc. I like some of the details in the Style Arc patterns and like that they suggest fabric, providing a swatch. A couple of things decided me against on this occasion though - I've never made one of their patterns and gather they're a bit short on instructions,  which I definitely still need at this stage and I'm not sure I've bought the correct size,  with them being single size patterns. The other reason was they suggested quite a fine stretch bengaline which I don't have and I wanted to use up fabric from my rapidly growing stash.  One of the great disadvantages of being a slow sewer is that stash grows faster than it is used up!

I've seen loads of great reviews for the McCall's. Then I realised that it was one of the best patterns of its year and was therefore valid for entry into the PR Best Patterns competition. Now why would I want to enter that?  'Simples' as  Aleksandr Orlov (Meerkat!) says!  I'm not getting things done for myself and this gives me a push.  Besides, it appeared to be quite an easy make,  so I decided to go ahead. I liked the idea of a simple make for me. Some people call this a 'palate cleanser'. I missed the PR competition but that's no big deal.

I now think that perhaps my fabric is a little thick and 'bouncy' though it did have the required amount of stretch. This led to a few extra steps.

In my sewing class, I was measured against the pattern. It's great to have someone to do that!

Pattern alterations

I decided to make size L. I had read that it runs a bit big so felt that although my hips are bigger than given in this size range,  it would be fine.

I needed to lengthen the centre front by ¾" , tapering to zero at the side,  and shorten the back by a similar ¾". tapering to zero at the side seam. My tutor, Lyn, said it was crucial that the waist fell at the correct spot in this style or it just wouldn't look good.

The sleeves appeared to be a good length for me so I didn't need to lengthen them  - which is unusual for me. However,  my tutor advised making the sleeves in size XL,  though leaving the sleeve cap at L, because there didn't appear to be enough ease for my chunky biceps. I'm glad I did this as I feel the finished sleeves are somewhat neat over another sleeve.

Many sewers who reviewed this cardigan felt it was fine to put the sleeves in flat but my tutor advised me to insert them in the round as that would give a better look. I read a Curvy Sewing Collective post that linked to a post about dominant seams and that may be why. Another reviewer also suggested this gave a better look.

Now many people felt that interfacing the band was unnecessary but my tutor advised that I should complete this step.

So I was going to be following the instructions exactly. Or more or less exactly - as I would add a step.

My original plan had been to do version B

- completely plain with just a touch of waist shaping. However,  my tutor and all of my fellow students suggested the longer peplum version. I've never liked peplums on me and don't have any garments in that style. I always felt that as a pear shape,  I didn't want to emphasise my hips. However, more recently I've been seen as rectangular,  so I decided to give this a go. Nothing to lose! (Well except time, hair and fabric!)

I cut out the fabric with only 2" left at the end. The top is quite greedy for fabric because of the circular skirt shaped peplum. However, I only realised later that I hadn't cut my band longer to compensate for the lengthened front;  then I thought,  that was correct,  in fact what I needed to do was to shorten the skirt part at the waist. So, at front, longer bodice, shorter skirt and opposite at back.  After all,  the hem (which I had already turned up but not stitched)  needed to be level.

After stitching the shoulders (including stay/twill tape - not mentioned in instructions) and sides of bodice and side seams of peplum, I had turned up the hem ready to topstitch and had prepared the band. I pinned my band to the front and saw that it was,  indeed,  too short, although I had reduced the bottom seam allowance of the band to try to make it a little longer.  I tried to alter the skirt portion at the waist to account for the shorter band. You can see that the 2" I had left would have been invaluable if I had included at the right time! I had no fabric left so no chance to recut anything.

My tutor got me to try on at this stage.
She advised taking in at the waist by ½" on each side,  tapering to nothing at armhole and peplum hem as she felt it was a little large, and not shaped enough, although correct at the shoulders.
She felt it was better to split the difference between the amount I had planned to take up of the skirt at the front at the waist and leaving it as it was. This meant I would need to shorten the whole peplum, form the hem,  to make the band front level.

Everyone liked it (I didn't and don't)

I drew up the changes I needed to make and stitched with my regular sewing machine. I then took out the overlocking and cut and re-overlocked the new narrower seam. My tutor recommended this - she said that overlocking over overlocking is untidy. I also attached the peplum to the bodice and overlocked,  including stay/twill tape,  as advised by my tutor.
That's not strictly true; I took my overlocker to class and the teacher wanted to try it with the stay tape inserted, as per instructions, in the foot. This didn't work and she ended doing it her usual way. I just watched. I didn't feel like doing more than that,  in all honesty.

So I was back to putting on the band. Yes, it was too short - but it was unequal! Or it seemed to be.  I had pinned the outer seam line together as it didn't really want to lie flat.  I took out all the pins and realised that there was no way this band was ever going to look good at the edge - I really felt that understitching was necessary, although it wasn't in the instructions. My tutor agreed.  (Today I read a review suggesting the same - the reviewer hadn't done it,  but felt it was necessary so had edge stitched instead) I also laid the band out flat,  now that it had no pins and wasn't attached to cardigan - and each side was the same length! So clearly, I had been pulling and pinning unequally.

In retrospect, I'm not sure understitching  was a good idea, although it certainly did its job. The instructions say right side is sewn to right side, as usual - but as band is folded over, the wrong side is then on display. If there is no understitching,  this isn't so obvious,  but only one side is interfaced. I read some reviews and see some reviewers comment on the band instructions, suggesting they were wrong or at best misleading. I'm glad that it wasn't just me - I'm sure there is an error in the instructions.

I had tremendous difficulty pinning the band to the bodice. Instructions say to clip and, boy, I had to clip! The hem needed to be shortened about ¾", equalling the original lengthening. However, the big issue was that the understitching line was showing - beautifully and evenly sewn,  but showing. Was this acceptable? I wondered.  I only machine basted the band half expecting to have to take it off.
I did shorten the hem to the correct length. I was going to overlock,  turn and topstitch the hem of the circular peplum but my overlocking didn't look neat so I did a twice folded hem as was in the original instructions and hand basted.

Anyway,  I was well enough to go to class that Thursday. Just! As I had suspected,  Lyn advised that although the neckband looked OK, it would never lie correctly as there was too much fabric underneath as my understitching was doing its job. She suggested I unpick and she would stitch the neckband on again. Agreed!  When Lyn was stitching it back on again,  I realised that my fabric really wasn't very well behaved - it wasn't just me! There were particular problems when the non interfaced side was on top as it wanted to stretch and move away from the presser foot. I watched and took notes. I really still wasn't well enough to do more.

Before I went to class I had also tried to gather and ease the sleeve heads and insert but this didn't work - I had problems with the easing and loads of puckers. I was using my big machine and wasn't sure how to change stitch tension for the duration of easing. I took it all out and restitched with a normal length stitch but at a looser tension as advised, using my smaller class machine, and this worked much better. I think Lyn felt sorry for me and ended up inserting my sleeves for me. I certainly wasn't protesting! I did the easing and the pinning. My fabric was really ill behaved!

I had family with me for the week before Easter and then I took my mother back home and stayed with her for a few days.  She is moving out of her house into a one level flat in a few weeks and needs help to sort out loads of paperwork - my mother is visually impaired and struggles enormously with this. So no sewing over this period,  other than the bit I got done in class on the Thursday before Easter.

At class yesterday (our term continued right up until yesterday, Thursday 9th April,  as an earlier session had been cancelled,  but yesterday was the last until next term) I thought I still had to overlock all my seams and took my overlocker. I didn't have my car and when I realised I had already done my overlocking and didn't need my machine,  it was too late to change. I didn't have my sewing machine but could use a class machine - except I didn't have the same thread I'd used to topstitch with me!  

I didn't really have enough with me to keep me going. However,  we were having an A to Z of sewing terms done Boggle style. We could put one term against each letter and got a point if no one else had the term. I decided to use only terms I had come across and used rather than try to look up more obscure terms. Others had clearly worked hard looking up terms.  However,  my policy worked and I won by 1 point!  That was nice. I received a prize of a pin cushion, a small storage box and the choice of a button covering kit or seam gauge - I chose the button kit as I already had the latter. The competition took quite a while and we learned quite a few new terms.

I put on the jacket and asked help in measuring the sleeve length. The instructions suggested 1.5 cm turned,  raw edge turned under,  so a ¾ cm hem.  Lyn suggested I'd be better doing a slightly deeper hem as it would lie better - so I was going to be doing a 1 cm double turned hem, topstitched. To my surprise,  I actually had to shorten the sleeves - one by more than the other. Yes, I'm lopsided! During the class, I cut the sleeves and turned them to the correct length. I then hand basted to keep them in place,  and pressed. I also handstitched the seam allowance in place at the hemline and waistline.

So the jacket was more or less finished. I asked Lyn's advice on finishing touches and pressing. Lyn advised me to stitch the overlocked neck seam in place from the outside, between the shoulder seams, as otherwise that seam could irritate my neck - so, like understitching except the stitches are visible on the correct side of the fabric. Overstitching?  I did this at home.

At home,  I topstitched my sleeve hems. I forgot to change my stitch length so my stitches were shorter than my previous topstitching,  unfortunately - but I didn't think it was such a big issue and didn't take it out and redo.  The first sleeve went very well - but my machine didn't want to stitch the second!  It took a few attempts but it was okay in the end. I think it was a combination of too short a stitch length and the narrow width of the hem I was stitching while using my 9mm stitch plate. I couldn't use my straight stitch plate as my needle wasn't in centre position - I need all the help I can get to place my stitches accurately and was using my needle offset so I could use the edge of the presser foot to guide my stitching. My new 5.5 mm stitch plate had actually been delivered while I was out but I didn't even think of using it! However,  I need to practice keeping stitching straight while using a straight stitch foot and plate.



The inside is nicely finished

The iron in class isn't good enough to use for steam so after a demo of what to do,  I elected to do the steaming and pressing at home. Lyn advised how to steam the underside of the collar, each seam and the sleeve cap seam allowances. This I did. I'm not completely happy with the collar/band but it looks okay from the outside. Again,  I think the understitching is to 'blame' for this.  Looking at the finished cardigan/jacket,  I feel I would like to tether the band back at the hem. What do you think?  Do you think a decorative pin would be a good idea?

I can say I have a garment for me,  even if I can't say I sewed it all myself! I'm pleased with the result,  from a sewing point of view, but I don't think this will ever become a favourite garment. Somehow I must find a way of choosing styles that are better for me. This was a combination of a style that doesn't suit and fabric that is too bulky. I did learn a few things so it's not time wasted. I still wonder about that understitching which caused a lot of extra work and I feel is contributing to puckering on the band.

Today I noticed that the winner of the PR Best Pattern competition used this pattern - but altered the style beautifully,  though more suited to a petite person,  I feel. I'm still happy to sew patterns as given,  modifying only for size. That might change when I have got a TNT pattern and when I feel more practised in sewing skills.

I don't have photos of the construction stages but did have photos of some of the details - but they are refusing to load!! So rather than wait even longer, I'm going to post this without those images but will add at a later date if I can retrieve them.