Black Linen Jacket

In July I went on a 3 day sewcation where I sewed a jacket Simplicity 2149  with the help of the tutor. The pattern was for an unlined jacket but I wanted to line it rather than bind all the seams and the tutor thought this was a good idea anyway. Due to time constraints the tutor drafted and cut out the lining (there was no lining pattern).  When I came to sew the lining together ready to bag it I found that the sleeves were a good bit too short and I had to add to their length. The seam doesn't show as there is a cuff. I have an earlier blog on this jacket and also a review on PR.

 

It was very windy that day - in fact it is today which is why we took photos inside.

I've wanted to do the jacket from start to finish by myself, however. I wanted a black casual jacket and had been unable to find one to buy so I decided to make one.  I decided to make the jacket in black linen,  which I had bought previously. I also decided to fully line it and chose red and black Paisley print lining, which I bought specially.

I measured out the pieces for the lining fabric on the existing pattern pieces, adding the necessary two seam allowances. Note to self - next time draw up separate lining pieces. This would be so much easier.

I also decided to have pockets, borrowed from another pattern Simplicity 2341.  On the other pattern,  I realised that the pockets were closed by exposed zips which I didn't fancy so decided against the zips but kept the pocket. My tutor at my regular Thursday class helped me by showing me how to make up a pattern for the pockets, which are sewn in on both sides of the princess seam. That was clever and useful. Before she showed me, I really was struggling as to how to do it, even though the jackets are similar (except this one has raglan sleeves).

I also decided to have a front zip closure, like 2341,  and bought a long black separating zipper after checking with the tutor that this would work. The other pattern has such a zipper closure.

The other change I made was to lengthen the sleeves as I felt they were a bit too short on my first jacket.

I cut out the jacket pieces without major difficulty.  The only problem was that I had to recut the sleeve bands which slipped a little as I was cutting. I cut them in class which means that I couldn't use my rotary cutter, unfortunately,  as I cut much more nicely with that.

I sewed the back of the jacket without problem and then started sewing on the side front pieces.

I then realised I needed to add the patch pockets to the front side pieces before stitching further (okay I had to unpick a bit! ). The tutor had advised sewing the bottom seam right sides together and upside down so that when folded back the pockets would be placed correctly. Another problem arose - I clearly didn't place exactly where we had made the pattern for as the pieces were not exactly the right size as they should have been.  I had taken my original jacket to class to work out where I wanted the pockets and cut the pocket pattern accordingly. Unfortunately, I didn't mark on the pattern...

Another note to self - carefully mark on pattern where I want to put pocket.

I decided to topstitch the pockets in 3 places - at the bottom of the pocket, at the top of the pocket and along the edge of the folded under flap which,  incidentally, I interfaced on the advice of the tutor.

I stitched the lining pieces together in class. The pieces lined up on one side but not the other. Even if I had wanted to, the tutor advised that it was so far out I couldn't ignore as the sleeve would twist in use. I took everything to pieces again and remeasured the segments. I found I had cut the two back sleeve pieces short - I had missed out the necessary double seam allowance, even though I had marked this on the pattern. I didn't have enough lining to recut the pieces so had to be satisfied with adding a piece to the top of each back sleeve. It won't show.

 

I did have a couple of other problems. I sewed one seam wrong sides together so had to unpick and resew correctly. Then I thought I had miscut the other lining pieces as once more my sides were different and didn't line up. When everything was taken apart, the measurements were equal. It is clearly difficult to match up; I haven't had experience of sewing slippy bias fabric and assume I was found wanting!

There is a lesson to be learned here - it's difficult to sew and concentrate when there is a lot going on. Perhaps it's better to put off until things are easier? On the other hand, I do find the classes an escape. Even the tutor noticed I wasn't my usual self - I found it more difficult to work things out, had to ask more and made more mistakes.

I didn't manage to finish  before our lengthy Christmas break but was well on the way. One night at home took me to the next stage.

My next task was to attach the collar. I had a few problems with this (after I had attached it and facing and trimmed seams). I topstitched around the collar and realised that I had created a right and a wrong side, attached the wrong way around. When I reread the instructions trying to sort this out, I realised that I had done the same as I did previously (and had been advised to do), which was to fold collar and understitch the seam allowance to the facing, before folding back to right side and topstitching, thus creating a right and a wrong side. Now I realised that I needed to fold over equally with no understitching, so that both sides were the same. I remade the collar to do this. I then topstitched with fewer problems than I had previously. It also had the bonus that the collar was easier to attach than it had been previously, even though my neckline (and facing) seam allowances had been trimmed, as the collar edges were equal in length now

I attached the collar and then the zip. The zip lies between the front and the self facing. My zip is quite heavy and has silver toned teeth. I had another lighter weight one with black teeth but this was shorter - I felt too short. In retrospect, I wish I had spent longer trying to source a longer black toothed zip. In addition, the end of the zip isn't black, and shows. It seems to be a thick opaque coating over the end of the zip. This was quite tough to sew through. I had to have a few attempts to line up the top of the teeth and the edge of the collar to match on both sides. It's not perfect but is acceptable.

Then I had to sew the facing to the neckline over the collar; the facing to the fronts was already attached, with the zip between the layers.

I had the lining sorted out and pinned to the facing pieces. I tried out sleeve lining length and it was okay. I still had to fold up the jacket hem and interface the seam allowance, stitch the lining to the facing where pinned, stitch the sleeve lining to the sleeve cuff seam allowance and sort out the hem area before turning the whole through an unstitched part of hem and voilà! my jacket practically finished!

I reckoned just a few hours work would see me finished. I was finding it difficult to get the time, though - I wrote this part as I was sitting in the hospital out patient department waiting room waiting for my mother to complete her eye tests and other bits have been written travelling on the train - so the whole post will be rather bitsy. After we took my mother home, I decided to finish the jacket before I got on with other Christmas preparations.

I had to take the lining off the jacket (I had moved on without properly checking the steps) and trim to the length of the finished jacket hem to make sure the bagging would work properly. I once again followed Linda Lee's Craftsy tutorial 'Underneath It All', but I didn't use staystitching on the lining as a guide as I had overlocked the edges and, to be honest, just wanted to get on with it! The reason why I had to unpin everything rather than just the hem area was that I also wanted to add interfacing to the hem allowance and hadn't thought to do this earlier. I also gave my linen a good press.

I repinned, following instructions and stitched lining to facing right sides together at 1.5 cms from one hem up and around neckline and down to other hem. I then went ahead and attached sleeve lining to the seam between sleeve and cuff using the contortions recommended! Then all that remained was a little handstitching to the facing at the edges and along the bottom of the hem.

 



I love my red Paisley lining!

 

Finished!

I decided not to add the short half belt at the back or the buttons at the cuff.

However, two things

1. The lining is not joined evenly - my shoulder seams don't match. I don't know how this happened as I started by matching these seams. No, I'm not taking it out again! It was perfect before I unpinned.

2. The heavy zipped front sections want to flare out. I didn't do any topstitching at edge of zip and realised that I probably should have. My attempts to do this failed as the zip teeth caused the stitching line to veer off-course. The whole is understitched so that's not the issue

Is the jacket a success?

In so far as I have managed to complete the jacket without anyone doing any of the steps for me - yes. Another attempt would be easier.

However, the rumpled look of linen isn't for me, I'm afraid. It's just too unstructured and messy in my view. I pressed well but this didn't solve the problem for me

I’m not sure that the addition of a zip helped this jacket. I think I'll branch out to another style - and maybe I'll move away from raglan sleeves. I might actually be better sewing a straight 2341. I did buy fabric and zips for this previously but decided on this occasion as I had already made 2149, I would stick with that.

It's finished!! That's the biggest win!

It's in the detail?

Hello again.

ETA Photos of finished jacket, Sunday 17th August 2014.

It's ages since I posted - not because I haven't been sewing but because I don't have anything completely finished to post.

I've been away from home for a few days at a time and had family visit - in the case of my middle daughter she has moved back in with all her stuff, hopefully on a temporary basis. Her stuff took over my sewing room!! So I had to be away from home to get anything done!!

As a treat for my birthday, from my mother, I went to a town near Chesterfield for a 3 day sewing break, near the beginning of July. I travelled by car, to carry all the stuff I took with me and arranged for hotel accommodation. I travelled down on the morning of the course, starting very early, but still managed to be a bit late because of traffic hold ups. Travelling on the morning and back at the end of the course meant I only had 2 nights away from home and only the cost of two nights hotel and food instead of 3 or even 4. I was very tired, though.

I had the tutor all to myself. In advance we had decided that I would make a jacket. From the patterns I already had, the tutor chose this jacket.

 

 

It's edge to edge, no notched collar, princess seamed, casual fit and raglan sleeved so she felt this was a suitable project. I decided to do a variation on view C but without the mock pocket flaps, using a wool tweed.

I was first measured and the size decided on. This was larger than I expected - normally I grade up two sizes from bust to hip but that wasn't necessary with choosing the same size for chest and hip. This pattern comes with a choice of cup size and we chose the C cup, although my bra size is D or DD depending on band size.

I pinned the pattern together and tried it on and the tutor agreed the size was good. She didn't feel I needed to lower the bust point as I usually end up doing - an advantage of the larger size.

I went on to make the basic jacket up as a muslin. This was a little tight across the upper back and the seam had to be released and a little added. That allowed me to move my arms forward properly. In addition, the sleeve needed to be lengthened. Far fewer adjustments than I usually make. It was yet to be seen if they were sufficient.

The jacket in the pattern was unlined with each seam finished with bias tape (a Hong Kong finish). I wanted a lined jacket and the tutor said that lining was as easy as bias tape, which would be very time consuming, in any case. I took the lining material I originally chose - a kind of satiny cotton which I got from my mother who can no longer sew due to visual problems. However, my regular sewing tutor felt that it would make slipping the sleeves on rather difficult so I purchased a regular lining fabric.

The jacket I chose didn't have pockets, simply what appeared to be pockets because of the external braid. Another version (A) did have an inseam pocket but I decided against that for fear it wouldn't lie properly. My regular sewing tutor had counselled against them. There were pocket flaps elsewhere on the jacket, depending on the version but I didn't want these.

So I went to Chesterfield with wool fabric, matching thread, toning lining material, yards of bias binding, yards of braid, fur hooks and buttons (you can see why I needed to go by car!). The tutor didn't like my braid (I had great problems trying to get suitable notions.), so together with the tutor I visited a local haberdashery, run by a man in his 80s - the shop was a real treasure trove. I did buy some rather expensive braid - but then later decided I'd prefer not to have braid at all!

One great thing that the tutor showed me how to do was to fully interface each piece of fabric - using different grades and types of interfacing, depending on the position on the jacket. She has a press and I loved using this to apply the interfacing - but no, I won't be buying one for myself! I don't have a photo of the beautifully interfaced pieces. 

 Front view - jacket closed. I'm standing a bit askew - the hems are level, honest!

 Originally, the front would have had buttons and self fabric loops instead of the fasteners I had to use.

 It could easily be worn open. Some of the other views are open or just have one fastener at the top.

I bagged the lining. I think it looks good. original jacket would have been unlined with bias bound seams. I'm just about to be carried off by the wind in this photo!

Excuse the photos and my facial expressions! It was blowing a gale but I didn't want to wait any longer as who knows when it would have got done!

With no braid and no pocket flaps there was a danger of the jacket looking too plain.  I decided to topstitch the princess seams. This, I think, looks very nice but it is rather subtle (not really a disadvantage in my book!). This took some time to achieve, using a triple stitch on the tutor's machine.  (I will add a photo later as my camera is playing up and I don't have a decent view) I also top stitched the cuffs (shown). I had to use a smaller seam allowance in stitching the cuff to the sleeve as I felt the sleeve still wasn't long enough - next time, I would lengthen it further. This photo shows my fabric, the cuff top stitched at both ends and the notch, which on the pattern is much deeper and has a button at the apex of the notch. I decided I preferred a gentler slope.

 

I constructed the collar, also top stitched, and attached.

 

Another problem I had was the closure. Depending on the jacket version,  there was either 1 closure at top but free elsewhere (A),  which didn't seem to make much sense in a jacket for colder weather, or no closure at the top and 4 fairly closely spaced together lower down (C - the version I was most closely following). The closures were loops of fabric on one side, buttons on the other. I took along the fur hooks because I feared the fabric was too thick to make loops - the tutor agreed. She suggested that the fur loops were the best option but that these should be sewn such that they peaked out between the lining and the interfacing. So I sewed the loops on, which took ages. I wasn't able to seam the facing and fabric together all the way because of the bulk of the metal covered fur hooks and the risk of needle breakage or worse, and the was no way I was going to be able to understitch. I machine stitched what I could and the tutor suggested I hand stitch in between.

 

This is a photo of the fur hooks. I didn't photograph when they were in situ between fabric and interfacing, I'm afraid. I'm sure you can imagine that it didn't look good!

I had watched a Craftsy class on how to make a lining for a jacket and reviewed it in the evenings when I had nothing better to do while away from home and on my own. I also looked at Sandra Betzina's instructions (in Power Sewing Step-by-Step). So I was ready to make the lining. However, to save time the tutor took me through the steps but made up the lining pattern herself. I was disappointed but realised that time was very short.

In fact, time had now run out!  My jacket was not finished.  The tutor ran through the remaining steps, involving finishing the closures and facing,  by hand, attaching the lining and hand stitching the sleeve lining to the cuff interfacing and the lining to the hem - she said this was just a couple of easy steps which I could manage.

So I decided to finish it at home.

My first problem was attaching the collar to the neckline, which I did while I was away but when I reviewed it, I decided it wasn't good enough. I ended up picking out and re-sewing twice. It's still not perfect but enough was enough! See photo above.

I didn't like the way the fur hooks were placed between the fabric and interfacing and didn't think it would look good.  My regular sewing class was the next day and my usual tutor agreed with this. I unpicked the stitching and all the fur hooks and eyes. I properly seamed and understitched and I was much happier with the finish.  My regular tutor showed me how to sew/cover the hooks with thread and I was going to attach them simply to the facing.  I wasn't happy, though. I experimented with loops made of the fabric, of the lining, of bias binding and searched my available haberdasheries for a solution. I felt there must be a better solution than the fur hooks!

 

This photo shows the little half belt at the back - also topstitched, with the buttons I would have used had I been able to make the self fabric closures.

 

In the meantime, I decided to bag the lining as per my online class. Thus would include machine sewing the lining to the cuff and to part of the bottom hem.  Well, I had problems. After I stitched it, I found that the sleeve was terribly puckered because the lining was too short. I felt I had a choice between making new sleeve linings or adding a band to each sleeve. This is what I choose to do. I had to add 3" plus seam allowances (I checked with my regular tutor to see if what I intended was sensible). My tutor also constructively criticised my lining insertion to the body as I had pulled too tightly at the curves; I unpicked and adjusted. I managed to attach the lining properly and also finished off as my tutor suggested, anchoring the lining and sleeve together under the arm and also at the seams as Craftsy advised.

 

 

My haberdashery search for suitable closures came up trumps. As there weren't enough available to make all the closures the same size, I opted for one small at the top and 3 large, which DH thought looked good. I ordered more to have a better choice. I sewed 1 small and 3 large - the large attached to one side only as I found that one of the hooks was faulty so I couldn't finish until the new stock arrived. I could have used all small but prefer the larger ones. I think they take the stark look away from the jacket.

 

Overall, I think the jacket looks good. I think it is perhaps a little too big across shoulders/chest and my regular tutor agreed, suggesting raglan shoulder pads. I did buy these and tried them but didn't like them - and they made the sleeve too short. In colder weather there will be room for a sweater. I think I will wear it.

 

Why no picture of the finished jacket yet? I decided I had sewed on the closures all wonky, tried to alter some and then decided to take them all off to redo but I haven't had time (or the inclination to be honest) to redo. So they are awaiting completion. I think I'm going to use 4 large closures. I will edit this post and put in a photo when I'm finished.

So was the class worthwhile? You know, I'm really not sure. It was good value,  despite having to travel so far and pay for hotel accommodation and meals,  the tutor was pleasant and knowledgeable, I had her to myself - and if I'd been at home there was no way I'd get 3 days to sew. However,  I had a lot of problems after I left and feel time in class would have been better spent actually fitting the lining,  for example,  than sewing on hooks, though of course things have to be done in the correct order. There was no way that the fur hooks were going to work attached the way she suggested and that wasted a lot of time both in class and afterwards.

If I cost up this jacket, it's very expensive - but a lot of the techniques I learned can be used elsewhere, so I'm not going to include the course cost. I'm not even going to include the cost of the unused yards of bias binding, the braid or fur hooks as they can be used another time - they've just added to my stash.

Fabric £18 per metre - 4.5 metres (though I have enough left to make at least a skirt) so say 3. £54

Lining £4 per metre 2.5 metres £10
Thread £4
Closures 1@1.35 and 3@1.55 £6 - now 4@1.55 £6.20
Total £74 now £74.20 - and a lot of time
 Do you think it was worth it?

Since drafting the above (while travelling on the train last week), my new closures have come in (I got a replacement for the faulty one with no problem). I started to sew on the closures on the other side (I had done the eye side but not the hook side) and realised that I hadn't done very well - the closures were not evenly spaced and did not lie horizontally. So, I unpicked them all. I've now decided to go with 4 large closures (DH liked the 1 small and 3 large, BTW). I think if I mark the fabric properly where I want the closures to go that will help - previously I put in the right place but they slipped.

 

Finished jacket!

 

 

My mother visited for a few days - she has just returned home - and really likes the jacket.

 

WIPS and Wadders

I'm going to a sewing workshop for 3 days next week - a birthday present from my mother. I'm going to be making a jacket.

I'll probably make Simplicity 2149, version B/C using a beautiful pure wool fabric. I'm also taking Simplicity 2341 and a couple of choices of fabric - a black jacket weight linen and a grey slightly velour fabric.

There are pink and beige tones in the wool which don't show up very well in my photos.

 

 

Both jackets are unlined. S2149 has Hong Kong seaming and I went to great efforts to get enough of an appropriate bias tape; I was going to make my own but in the end decided it was easier to buy. I bought 25 metres of 5/8" single bias binding, which I planned to fold, slightly asymmetrically along the gap in the centre; the pattern calls for 1/4" double bias binding. I can't buy already made double bias binding.

Really, however, I fancied lining any jacket I make but thought my tutor next week would consider that to be too advanced for me; however, she has responded to me saying that she would prefer me to line than do Hong Kong seam finish as it is faster and neater. I kind of broke my fabric fast by buying new lining fabric for the wool jacket, but I consider that justified so don't feel in the slightest guilty. And DH came along with me so he's not too worried about my growing fabric stash, really.

Interestingly, I asked this tutor her recommended way of pre treating my wool fabric as I had read several different options; these included dry cleaning, soaking in cold water then drying in rolled up sheet; washing in cold water; steaming all over and putting in tumble dryer with two hot wet but squeezed out towels. When she responded by email she suggested that most fabric, with the exception of denim, didn't actually need pre treatment. I have already pre-treated most of my fabric and really don't feel happy about not pre-treating the wool. I had also asked whether I needed to pre treat the bias binding - but it looks as though I won't be using that now.

However, I had several works in progress. I'd really like to have finished these before starting another!

The first is a sleeveless cowl neck top Simplicity 2594 version A, in pink crepe.

 

This was to be my June garment for the Make a Garment a Month Challenge. I started this in my weekly Thursday sewing class, firstly altering the pattern for length so the waist shaping would be in the right place. My tutor there didn't like the way the  shoulder yoke was added to the garment and so I started doing it her way at class, unfortunately missing the next class because of a golf match (in which we didn't do very well, regrettably). I wasn't able to continue by myself as I didn't really understand the process. I do now. At class on Thursday I was able to move the garment on and am nearly finished apart from top stitching and hemming of armholes and bottom. That shouldn't take too long but I can't think about doing it now before my jacket workshop next week. I'm back at class on Thursday, though, so should manage to finish it then. I do, however, prefer my own sewing machine so might decide to finish it at home instead. Next week is regrettably the penultimate class before the summer break -start back in mid September.

The second is a wadder. I had fabric left over from my burda dress. I like the dress and the fabric lies nicely and is reasonably flattering. After looking at options, I decided to buy Colette's Mabel, a beginner knit skirt.  

I certainly didn't want to make a mid thigh version so decided to make version 3, a pencil skirt with front princess seams designed to be just about knee length. I lengthened the pattern by 1.5" to account for my height and bring it to the correct length. I had already cut out and decided that I'd finish it today, perhaps even wear it while away. The pattern was fairly easy to make up although I had great difficulty in understanding how to attach the waistband and lining; the pattern instructions have you trim 1/8" off lining to cause it to turn in. I got this wrong, sewing the wrong side. I re-cut the pieces - well it still wasn't right, I'm afraid. I would have preferred to understitch, but maybe that isn't suitable in a stretch waistband. Finally I finished attaching the waistband ( 'a mid rise contoured waistband') and tried the skirt on before hemming. I had already basted and tried on, over my trousers (in class) and it seemed fine size wise though there was no waistband at that time. I wasn't sure about the position of the waistband, but really that was the least of my problems. I really dislike the shape of this skirt. I had seen a few pictures of completed garments, which I thought were too tight; mine isn't. However, I have a full high hip, an inward dent and full high thigh - the result when wearing this skirt is not pleasant to see! My husband immediately commented 'you really do need to lose weight' (he's right and this wasn't said in an unpleasant way - he's very supportive but I've gained a stone of the two I lost.) I'm not going to finish the skirt - I actually don't think my shape changes enough with moderate weight loss to make this a flattering style for my shape. Fitting lessons advise against emphasising this hip type and well, a knit pencil skirt does exactly that.

That's all I'm showing of the skirt. This is the waistband with the finer weight lining. Not a nice sight.

 

My third unfinished garment is a pair of trousers. I go to a monthly dressmaking class (now finished until September) and we tissue fitted each other into McCall's 6091, a Palmer Pletsch easy fitting pattern.

 

 I made a number of tissue changes to account for leg length, small waist, full hip etc. I was going to make up a muslin of the result but this was voted down in class and we went straight onto cutting out fashion fabric last week (our second class). I used a fabric that I don't mind losing if the result is not good but can wear if it is.  

I got so far in sewing up. As the next class is not until September, I will probably finish off myself before then.

My fourth unfinished garment is a skirt that we started in a make a skirt class linked to the monthly dressmaking class, but we didn't get finished within the day. Version C., knee length. 

 

I would definitely have preferred to make a muslin and then alter the pattern and cut out the fashion fabric. Instead, we tissue fitted and then cut out fashion fabric (same tutor as the pants ). I had some problems with my fabric. I bought suitable fabric from the shop where the class is held (a quilting shop) and prepared it ready for the skirt making class. Unfortunately, at class I then found a flaw which ran throughout the fabric at a regular interval and so my fabric was replaced by another, an art gallery fabric, but which a) wasn't prepared and b)the pattern was set at a slight diagonal and difficult to deal with.

Waistband ready to sew up. The diagonal direction of the fabric is easier to see in the next photo; I wouldn't have chosen if I had realised in time i.e. before I cut into it!!

Nice fabric but I wish I had never seen it. Some of the problems I have had with making the skirt up may be due to the accommodations I had to make to account for the fabric pattern. And of course, I had to match the pattern which was extremely difficult. There is another skirt making class in September - I may leave it until then! I don't feel any urge to fight with it at home.
Maybe by this time next week, I'll have a finished jacket and a finished top. 

Lots of thinking and preparation - but not much actual sewing.

Well, my week off sewing has stretched to rather longer than that. Things happen, of course. I've been busy with family and golf and haven't been keeping too well.

However, class started last Thursday again. I altered and cut out Simplicity 2594. I needed to grade pattern from an 18 at bust to a 22 at hips. I've decided to make view A of Simplicity 2594 (the green and white diagonal stripe top left on pattern envelope) in a pink polyester type fabric. View A is longer so I won't need to add so much extra length. I'm not planning at this stage to add the belt but may do when I finish it if it looks as if it needs it. I  have already altered pattern and cut out, grading from an 18 at bust to 22 at hip. I'm a real pear. I did have to lower waistline position to match mine, which effectively lengthened pattern overall by 1". Front and back are cut on the bias in this pattern which has a loose draped neck. This picture is view C, which I will do for my Mum. My fabric is a pink polyester type, I think.

 

My mother loves these necklines and my plan is to do the shorter length (view B- the main picture)for her in a fabric she gave me. She can no longer sew due to her eyesight and gave me a number of notions and a bit of fabric. The one I have chosen to make the top for her just doesn't suit my colouring  but is exactly her.

 

She also gave me a fabric in purple floral and this is so not her! I see that a part of the fabric is hemmed all around; it is in 2 pieces - I wonder if she was planning some home dec? No, I can't see where it would fit in. There is a fair bit of this fabric so I need to decide what I can do with it.

 

I'll carry on with Simplicity 2594 tomorrow at class.

My serger/overlocker has (nearly) been pronounced defunct! The printed circuit board (PCB) has a fault and these are normally replaced rather than repaired even though it could simply be a loose connection. The dealer I went to for the repair has been incredibly slow - promised 7 - 10 days and it has now been 3 weeks. He is trying to get a price for the PCB but feels I would be better in any case with a new serger with guarantee as the price would be higher than I had initially okayed. I'm not happy with this dealer. I had been considering a Pfaff coverlocker but feel his service has not been good - doesn't phone when he promises etc and it is clear they are under great stress at present. They do Pfaff, Brother, Juki, Janome, and Toyota. The Toyota jeans machine might work for DH's leather?

My husband wants to sew some leather and my sewing tutor suggested getting a reconditioned mechanical Bernina from another slightly less local dealer. We went, they didn't have one, but in summary DH was very impressed with Bernina (and the dealer) and has offered to get me a Bernina overlocker (not a coverlocker as dealer advised against this) AND upgraded sewing machine - the 750QE - for my big birthday coming up. The dealer has good reviews from other people. On the basis that people say choose your dealer, then the machine, he seems the one to go for. The dealer I bought my current Brother from (who is also a Viking agent which is why I went there in the first place - my original Viking 6690 died) is okay. I go there for a monthly sewing class - tomorrow night - but they largely deal with quilting, hiring in a dressmaking tutor once a month. We are going to the Bernina agent on Friday for a play and demo of the machines. I must say DH is more keen than I am - I think the 750QE is overkill! I do want to have my machines so that they can have interchangeable feet etc and that is not currently the case with a Brother and a portable Viking (bought to use the feet from my previous Viking but I don't really like it - just too light weight, really). I bought the current Brother Innov -is 350SE when I wasn't sure whether I would take to dressmaking. However, it has been providing problems with sewing over seams where stitch length alters and a few issues with catching. Rather frustrating and I'm happy to upgrade - but this far? I'm not a quilter.

Any thoughts?

The monthly sewing tutor is doing an additional all-day class this weekend to make a skirt and I'm going along to that. I haven't quite decided on my fabric etc. It's using McCall's 3830. I'm going to do view C - the knee length one.

 

I recently visited Linton Fabrics in Carlisle as I'd heard so much about them from the sewing community. Their fabrics are pretty pricy but I bought some remnants and also 2 x 1 metre skirt lengths. They have a large check though and the sewing tutor advised against this for the skirt, so they won't do. I washed one of the cotton mix fabrics and found that was a bad idea! There was a great deal of unravelling! I won't post picture yet.

I haven't carried on with the knits I was doing because of the lack of a serger. I've enjoyed the experience of working with them, though. I have enough of the fabric from my grey dress left over to make a skirt, and am wondering whether I could use that on Saturday. I'll ask tomorrow night. That would increase the versatility of the dress and jacket. I'll have to think about a suitable top though.

 

Tomorrow night, I believe we are starting to make some trousers. I'm looking forward to that but I'm taking muslin rather than a fashion fabric. I will have quite a few modifications to make to the pattern - I have tried pants muslins before but gave up as it was so difficult on my own. This should be good.

On a last note - my mother has bought me a 3 day sewing break for my birthday. I will be having individual tuition! It's a bit away from home so I'll be staying in a hotel for 2 nights. I originally hoped to take her class on finishing techniques, but I'm also going to be making a jacket! The tutor chose a jacket pattern from my selection and yesterday I bought the fabric - 100% pure wool. This is the most expensive fabric I have bought as yet. I still need to buy the trimmings and I want to line it. I'm looking forward to this.

 

When I went to the fabric shop, I also bought a metre of purple cotton jersey to make a tee shirt, using Wendy Mullin's (Built by Wendy) Sew U Home Stretch book but that will have to wait until I have a working overlocker.

 

 

So, not much sewing but a lot of thinking about it and preparing for it!!

Anne