WIPS and Wadders

I'm going to a sewing workshop for 3 days next week - a birthday present from my mother. I'm going to be making a jacket.

I'll probably make Simplicity 2149, version B/C using a beautiful pure wool fabric. I'm also taking Simplicity 2341 and a couple of choices of fabric - a black jacket weight linen and a grey slightly velour fabric.

There are pink and beige tones in the wool which don't show up very well in my photos.

 

 

Both jackets are unlined. S2149 has Hong Kong seaming and I went to great efforts to get enough of an appropriate bias tape; I was going to make my own but in the end decided it was easier to buy. I bought 25 metres of 5/8" single bias binding, which I planned to fold, slightly asymmetrically along the gap in the centre; the pattern calls for 1/4" double bias binding. I can't buy already made double bias binding.

Really, however, I fancied lining any jacket I make but thought my tutor next week would consider that to be too advanced for me; however, she has responded to me saying that she would prefer me to line than do Hong Kong seam finish as it is faster and neater. I kind of broke my fabric fast by buying new lining fabric for the wool jacket, but I consider that justified so don't feel in the slightest guilty. And DH came along with me so he's not too worried about my growing fabric stash, really.

Interestingly, I asked this tutor her recommended way of pre treating my wool fabric as I had read several different options; these included dry cleaning, soaking in cold water then drying in rolled up sheet; washing in cold water; steaming all over and putting in tumble dryer with two hot wet but squeezed out towels. When she responded by email she suggested that most fabric, with the exception of denim, didn't actually need pre treatment. I have already pre-treated most of my fabric and really don't feel happy about not pre-treating the wool. I had also asked whether I needed to pre treat the bias binding - but it looks as though I won't be using that now.

However, I had several works in progress. I'd really like to have finished these before starting another!

The first is a sleeveless cowl neck top Simplicity 2594 version A, in pink crepe.

 

This was to be my June garment for the Make a Garment a Month Challenge. I started this in my weekly Thursday sewing class, firstly altering the pattern for length so the waist shaping would be in the right place. My tutor there didn't like the way the  shoulder yoke was added to the garment and so I started doing it her way at class, unfortunately missing the next class because of a golf match (in which we didn't do very well, regrettably). I wasn't able to continue by myself as I didn't really understand the process. I do now. At class on Thursday I was able to move the garment on and am nearly finished apart from top stitching and hemming of armholes and bottom. That shouldn't take too long but I can't think about doing it now before my jacket workshop next week. I'm back at class on Thursday, though, so should manage to finish it then. I do, however, prefer my own sewing machine so might decide to finish it at home instead. Next week is regrettably the penultimate class before the summer break -start back in mid September.

The second is a wadder. I had fabric left over from my burda dress. I like the dress and the fabric lies nicely and is reasonably flattering. After looking at options, I decided to buy Colette's Mabel, a beginner knit skirt.  

I certainly didn't want to make a mid thigh version so decided to make version 3, a pencil skirt with front princess seams designed to be just about knee length. I lengthened the pattern by 1.5" to account for my height and bring it to the correct length. I had already cut out and decided that I'd finish it today, perhaps even wear it while away. The pattern was fairly easy to make up although I had great difficulty in understanding how to attach the waistband and lining; the pattern instructions have you trim 1/8" off lining to cause it to turn in. I got this wrong, sewing the wrong side. I re-cut the pieces - well it still wasn't right, I'm afraid. I would have preferred to understitch, but maybe that isn't suitable in a stretch waistband. Finally I finished attaching the waistband ( 'a mid rise contoured waistband') and tried the skirt on before hemming. I had already basted and tried on, over my trousers (in class) and it seemed fine size wise though there was no waistband at that time. I wasn't sure about the position of the waistband, but really that was the least of my problems. I really dislike the shape of this skirt. I had seen a few pictures of completed garments, which I thought were too tight; mine isn't. However, I have a full high hip, an inward dent and full high thigh - the result when wearing this skirt is not pleasant to see! My husband immediately commented 'you really do need to lose weight' (he's right and this wasn't said in an unpleasant way - he's very supportive but I've gained a stone of the two I lost.) I'm not going to finish the skirt - I actually don't think my shape changes enough with moderate weight loss to make this a flattering style for my shape. Fitting lessons advise against emphasising this hip type and well, a knit pencil skirt does exactly that.

That's all I'm showing of the skirt. This is the waistband with the finer weight lining. Not a nice sight.

 

My third unfinished garment is a pair of trousers. I go to a monthly dressmaking class (now finished until September) and we tissue fitted each other into McCall's 6091, a Palmer Pletsch easy fitting pattern.

 

 I made a number of tissue changes to account for leg length, small waist, full hip etc. I was going to make up a muslin of the result but this was voted down in class and we went straight onto cutting out fashion fabric last week (our second class). I used a fabric that I don't mind losing if the result is not good but can wear if it is.  

I got so far in sewing up. As the next class is not until September, I will probably finish off myself before then.

My fourth unfinished garment is a skirt that we started in a make a skirt class linked to the monthly dressmaking class, but we didn't get finished within the day. Version C., knee length. 

 

I would definitely have preferred to make a muslin and then alter the pattern and cut out the fashion fabric. Instead, we tissue fitted and then cut out fashion fabric (same tutor as the pants ). I had some problems with my fabric. I bought suitable fabric from the shop where the class is held (a quilting shop) and prepared it ready for the skirt making class. Unfortunately, at class I then found a flaw which ran throughout the fabric at a regular interval and so my fabric was replaced by another, an art gallery fabric, but which a) wasn't prepared and b)the pattern was set at a slight diagonal and difficult to deal with.

Waistband ready to sew up. The diagonal direction of the fabric is easier to see in the next photo; I wouldn't have chosen if I had realised in time i.e. before I cut into it!!

Nice fabric but I wish I had never seen it. Some of the problems I have had with making the skirt up may be due to the accommodations I had to make to account for the fabric pattern. And of course, I had to match the pattern which was extremely difficult. There is another skirt making class in September - I may leave it until then! I don't feel any urge to fight with it at home.
Maybe by this time next week, I'll have a finished jacket and a finished top. 

Lots of thinking and preparation - but not much actual sewing.

Well, my week off sewing has stretched to rather longer than that. Things happen, of course. I've been busy with family and golf and haven't been keeping too well.

However, class started last Thursday again. I altered and cut out Simplicity 2594. I needed to grade pattern from an 18 at bust to a 22 at hips. I've decided to make view A of Simplicity 2594 (the green and white diagonal stripe top left on pattern envelope) in a pink polyester type fabric. View A is longer so I won't need to add so much extra length. I'm not planning at this stage to add the belt but may do when I finish it if it looks as if it needs it. I  have already altered pattern and cut out, grading from an 18 at bust to 22 at hip. I'm a real pear. I did have to lower waistline position to match mine, which effectively lengthened pattern overall by 1". Front and back are cut on the bias in this pattern which has a loose draped neck. This picture is view C, which I will do for my Mum. My fabric is a pink polyester type, I think.

 

My mother loves these necklines and my plan is to do the shorter length (view B- the main picture)for her in a fabric she gave me. She can no longer sew due to her eyesight and gave me a number of notions and a bit of fabric. The one I have chosen to make the top for her just doesn't suit my colouring  but is exactly her.

 

She also gave me a fabric in purple floral and this is so not her! I see that a part of the fabric is hemmed all around; it is in 2 pieces - I wonder if she was planning some home dec? No, I can't see where it would fit in. There is a fair bit of this fabric so I need to decide what I can do with it.

 

I'll carry on with Simplicity 2594 tomorrow at class.

My serger/overlocker has (nearly) been pronounced defunct! The printed circuit board (PCB) has a fault and these are normally replaced rather than repaired even though it could simply be a loose connection. The dealer I went to for the repair has been incredibly slow - promised 7 - 10 days and it has now been 3 weeks. He is trying to get a price for the PCB but feels I would be better in any case with a new serger with guarantee as the price would be higher than I had initially okayed. I'm not happy with this dealer. I had been considering a Pfaff coverlocker but feel his service has not been good - doesn't phone when he promises etc and it is clear they are under great stress at present. They do Pfaff, Brother, Juki, Janome, and Toyota. The Toyota jeans machine might work for DH's leather?

My husband wants to sew some leather and my sewing tutor suggested getting a reconditioned mechanical Bernina from another slightly less local dealer. We went, they didn't have one, but in summary DH was very impressed with Bernina (and the dealer) and has offered to get me a Bernina overlocker (not a coverlocker as dealer advised against this) AND upgraded sewing machine - the 750QE - for my big birthday coming up. The dealer has good reviews from other people. On the basis that people say choose your dealer, then the machine, he seems the one to go for. The dealer I bought my current Brother from (who is also a Viking agent which is why I went there in the first place - my original Viking 6690 died) is okay. I go there for a monthly sewing class - tomorrow night - but they largely deal with quilting, hiring in a dressmaking tutor once a month. We are going to the Bernina agent on Friday for a play and demo of the machines. I must say DH is more keen than I am - I think the 750QE is overkill! I do want to have my machines so that they can have interchangeable feet etc and that is not currently the case with a Brother and a portable Viking (bought to use the feet from my previous Viking but I don't really like it - just too light weight, really). I bought the current Brother Innov -is 350SE when I wasn't sure whether I would take to dressmaking. However, it has been providing problems with sewing over seams where stitch length alters and a few issues with catching. Rather frustrating and I'm happy to upgrade - but this far? I'm not a quilter.

Any thoughts?

The monthly sewing tutor is doing an additional all-day class this weekend to make a skirt and I'm going along to that. I haven't quite decided on my fabric etc. It's using McCall's 3830. I'm going to do view C - the knee length one.

 

I recently visited Linton Fabrics in Carlisle as I'd heard so much about them from the sewing community. Their fabrics are pretty pricy but I bought some remnants and also 2 x 1 metre skirt lengths. They have a large check though and the sewing tutor advised against this for the skirt, so they won't do. I washed one of the cotton mix fabrics and found that was a bad idea! There was a great deal of unravelling! I won't post picture yet.

I haven't carried on with the knits I was doing because of the lack of a serger. I've enjoyed the experience of working with them, though. I have enough of the fabric from my grey dress left over to make a skirt, and am wondering whether I could use that on Saturday. I'll ask tomorrow night. That would increase the versatility of the dress and jacket. I'll have to think about a suitable top though.

 

Tomorrow night, I believe we are starting to make some trousers. I'm looking forward to that but I'm taking muslin rather than a fashion fabric. I will have quite a few modifications to make to the pattern - I have tried pants muslins before but gave up as it was so difficult on my own. This should be good.

On a last note - my mother has bought me a 3 day sewing break for my birthday. I will be having individual tuition! It's a bit away from home so I'll be staying in a hotel for 2 nights. I originally hoped to take her class on finishing techniques, but I'm also going to be making a jacket! The tutor chose a jacket pattern from my selection and yesterday I bought the fabric - 100% pure wool. This is the most expensive fabric I have bought as yet. I still need to buy the trimmings and I want to line it. I'm looking forward to this.

 

When I went to the fabric shop, I also bought a metre of purple cotton jersey to make a tee shirt, using Wendy Mullin's (Built by Wendy) Sew U Home Stretch book but that will have to wait until I have a working overlocker.

 

 

So, not much sewing but a lot of thinking about it and preparing for it!!

Anne

Finished burda check jacket and good news about serger; daughter's winter street dress

This morning, I photographed my finished burda check jacket to go with the dress I previously reviewed here.

 

I managed to get into the garden and DH took the photographs. I didn't get all the photos taken I wanted as not much later, we had huge hailstones and torrential rain, so I was lucky. It was nearly 7pm when I started to write this and the weather was lovely again.  The forecast for the next few days is rain, though. Yesterday, the golf course was closed due to the rain we've had so we didn't get to play our competition.

 

 

My checks are matched perfectly! The headache was worth it! At the front, the jacket slopes down, which is why the hem isn't straight along a line of checks; it's straight at the back and the side seams are perfect - even the interfacing is perfectly aligned. I thought we had a photo of that - but I confess that I had the dress on back to front in the first photos and had to change!! I'll need a label on the back - though the front has bust darts so it should have been obvious. I was in a bit of a hurry to get it done before the rain started again. That's my excuse!

 

I think the jacket looks a little large. It doesn't have fastenings. When pulled together, the size is okay and the shoulder seams are in the right place, but when left loose, it falls off my shoulders a bit and looks big. What do you think? Should I add a fastening? The sleeves appear to rotate forward. I don't know how to fix this. I didn't overlock the seam edges of the armscye as I couldn't at the time but as I used an additional row of twin needle stitching, it will be difficult to get out - and I trimmed it, too, so I don't know if I can still fix it. Any ideas or suggestions? Although I lengthened the jacket pattern by the same amount as I lengthened the dress - to keep the proportion, I felt that the jacket was too long and took off about an inch. I also had to shorten the sleeves about the same amount. I had previously lengthened the pattern, but obviously overdid it.

 

I posted yesterday about the demise of my overlocker. I was premature in reaching this conclusion! DH fixed it today - or at least it's working again after he had a look at it. Maybe it was going to be okay anyway. In the meantime I had been looking at reviews for overlockers and coverlockers. My serger is 5 thread but those aren't common now, unless they're convertible to coverstitch. I don't know if I need a coverstitch facility as twin needle seems fine for me. So do I need 5 threads on an overlocker, really? I do sew a lot of wovens and the 5 thread is good for those seams, but they're not, after all, necessary. I'm starting to sew with knits and 5 threads are not needed for those. I'm glad I don't have to chose just yet. Any advice would be welcome.

 

I finished the Pattern review winter street dress for my middle daughter. I downloaded and cut out the pattern again. I had modified the previous download for me and had already re-altered and further lengthened the torso on the pattern (L/XL) I had cut out for me so that was no use. This time I  used a trimmer which was great and made the whole process so much faster. And I didn't need to piece together all 25 pages as the pieces are more or less delineated from each other. That helped speed up the process - basically, I knew what I was doing this time!  My daughter need a 2 inch lengthening of front and back bodice. Size medium. Once the fabric was cut out, the rest was speedy. I had finished the seam edges using my sewing machine when I thought my overlocker was dead but they didn't look great. I was able to finish quickly with the overlocker today. Then I folded over the hem and finished with a twin needle. I had to cut off another few inches from the length to make my daughter happy - after it was cut out. So instead of being a 'pegged' skirt, it's more of a slight A-line as I also took in further at the waist. The waist looks better than in my version. The skirt length is about 19 inches. She still hasn't tried it on since I finished it so I don't know if it fits. She has reluctantly promised me a photograph. Once I get one (I'm not holding my breath!) I'll post. I used the maroon fabric for mine as that was what she chose - I wanted to see how it behaved - mine was intended as a hopefully wearable muslin. I also have lovely blue fabric and a floral but she stuck to the maroon. When I get around to re-doing the dress for me, I might choose the floral - not sure yet.

Finished winter street dress and refocusing my goals

This last week I finished Pattern Review's Winter Street Dress. This was my first completed garment from a downloadable pattern and my first knit dress. I took the opportunity of watching Deepika's video on attaching the neckband and of her tips on using clear elastic, which I had never used. I had to buy this mail order as none of my local suppliers had it. One had tape which was much narrower and I thought it would be more difficult to use, though it would have been fine at a push. I think my neckband turned out really well. I finished it with stitch in the ditch and you cant see my stitches at all.

I have done a review on Pattern Review of my dress - and have received a comment from Deepika. In my review I mentioned that the front seam joining the bodice and skirt was wavy and she suggests this was due to fabric being stretched and next time to stretch out elastic and make it a tiny touch smaller than seam. I also said I was scared to press and she said there was no problem with a pressing cloth and thought it would lie straight. This is very helpful - as were her tips, which I used. She didn't comment on my implied criticism of the pattern - namely that the pattern was drafted for a high waist when it is stated to be on the natural waistline.  Despite my alterations, the waistline at the front is still too high for me - admittedly I am rather long-waisted. In this picture, you can see the waviness in the waistline I was referring too - the back seam is better, though I'm disappointed to see how badly the pleat is lying. I need to press properly and wear a better foundation garment to take account of the weight I have put on these last few weeks - I tend to eat when I'm stressed.

Some of the problems with the dress are due to my alterations, I'm sure. I didn't have help for these and have probably not done them correctly. I've talked about the alterations I did in the review. When I came to sew up the sides skirt - underarm - sleeve, I found that the sleeve was about 5/8" on each side narrower than my bodice. I'm sure my manipulations to get around this have caused some distortion. In fact, as the sleeve is too tight at that point, I would have preferred to add to the sleeve than take away from the bodice. I think this may be why there are wrinkles there - or maybe I should have done an FBA. I'm not sure.

I've made a number of changes to the pattern and I'm going to try it again. I'm also planning to make it for my middle daughter but need to get some sizes before I attempt that. She is tall, about 5'9", I think, so smaller than me, and her torso may not be as long - I don't think it is. Younger people are quite happy, it seems, with raised waistlines - and shorter skirts. I realise I'm (getting) old!

I had hoped this dress would work for me - and maybe it would if the waistline was dropped further and if my changes to the pattern sort out the too tight armscye. Not uncomfortably tight, just more so than it should be. I feel that I really need to think about what I want to sew.

I'm having a special birthday soon and have requested a sewing course/break. I've found it very difficult to locate such a thing. If I'm travelling, any class/course needs to be on consecutive days as I don't want to be travelling back and forward each week - transport and fuel are too expensive to consider that. I'd really like to get hands-on help to create a set of slopers, but the only thing I've found is over 6 weeks at the other end of the country. I've done some emailing. I have seen one which might work, over 5 days, but it's not structured and that's what I'd really like.

I do have Craftsy classes dealing with fit and also Glenda sparling's Sure Fit Design system. Glenda is really helpful and I did start but then started to lose some weight so each time I fitted, I was a different size! Unfortunately, I've put some of that weight back on but resolve to lose it again before my birthday! I think I'm going to spend a good bit of time on these courses in the coming months.

I started this fit process as I can't get trousers/pants to fit well. I wear trousers a lot. I'm a golfer, and it's now into the new season. I'd like to have cropped trousers to wear, which fit well - golf trousers usually have a fly zip, pockets at each side and one on back and a fixed waistband. I can't really alter the ones I have as they are too short in the back crotch length, even though they are all too big for me now. I have my first important golf match on 21 May, when I wear team uniform - I can make do with what I already have but I would really love to be able to make a pair of black crops for this match. Crops or trousers, doesn't t really matter but crops are more comfortable when it's warmer. 21 May is just too soon, though. I will start on the first stage, though.

For my May Make a Garment a Month Challenge, I am going to make the jacket to go with the grey dress I previously made. I bought some lovely hound's-tooth (houndstooth?) medium weight stable knit fabric, similar to that on the pattern envelope and they should look good together.

I have already made the alterations to the pattern tissue and have made a full back piece to help me with pattern alignment. I've never used a pattern which needed matched before and I'm a bit apprehensive. A double back should help the process, as it's difficult to see the check on the reverse of the fabric. Lyn at class advised me to cut out say back first as this will help with alignment for next pieces. I'm going to wait until I get there before trying this - I need help on hand! It occurs to me that it might be best to cut out another sleeve and another front, too. The pattern doesn't llok complicated - it's all going to be in the check matching and good finishing.

The other major item which I want to sew is a jacket, but my skills need to develop further before I can consider that.

As I mentioned, the golf season has already started. I'm an official to our local County Veteran Ladies' Golf Association and I'm on duty over the next 3 days at a big competition - at least, all of tomorrow and part of both Wednesday and Thursday. I'm supposed to be playing golf on Wednesday but a filling fell out and I have to go to the dentist instead. Over the next few weeks, there are a number of events I have to attend in my official capacity - I'm away from home for 3 days in under 2 weeks and there are other one day events. So I'm not sure how much time I'll get to sew - or to blog about my sewing. Even more reason to realise I won't get those golf crops done by May 21st! It's nice to be out in the fresh air, though, especially with everything so pretty now. My rhododendrons and azelias are nearly over, daffodils are long gone, tulips nearing end and my back lawn is now a sea of pink petals. But there is still loads of colour and it's warm enough to be outside without a winter coat!! And although I still have quite a bit of pain and nerve tingling, I have actually played my first 18 holes of the season without mishap.

I need to sort out a few things for tomorrow. I'm having a very early start so need to get to bed at a reasonable time. It's 9.15pm now, so I'd like to be finished and relaxing in an hour.