|On the envelope, the button band appears to be pulled apart at the bust. I don't know if you can make this out from the image here. I like the floral view D with the mandarin collar and the checked view A with standard collar|
|I like views A and D both of which have the longer shaped hem.|
|I think the cover looks a bit old-fashioned, or retro? It's not bad but does concentrate on tissue fitting.|
- The shoulders, back and neck fit well
- The bustline looks good
- The back dart needs lengthened upwards
- When sewing, there needs to be greater dart intake at my waist.
- The blouse is very tight at waist and hips - the 1” SA was inadequate even let out to its fullest. The instructions are clear not to pre-suppose that you need extra at the hips even though you probably do. This is for two reasons a) doing a FBA will increase the garment hip circumference and b) harking back to the original seam lines makes it clearer what needs to be done and allows even change.
- I need to add ⅜” at the waist and ¾” at the hip both back and front
- The sleeves are too loose but probably the correct length given that there is a cuff to be added to the final garment. I haven’t quite decided whether I will have the long-sleeved cuffed version but felt it was best to get the sleeve fitted in this style.
|Showing the extra added at the side seams. Not ideal, I know, but I thought this was the fastest means to the end|
|This is showing the markedly curved front band - it is completely unpicked at the sides so this is not due to it being tight.|
|Showing the original FBA and the extra from the modification|
|This shows the shortening of the back shoulder seam|
I lengthened the front shoulder seam by the same amount
- The original tissue is used (tracing out and marking all the adjustment lines would take an age). I like to preserve the pattern in its original condition.
- Marking all the seam allowances and then taping up to those seam lines, in the seam allowance, is slow work.
- Once the tissue is cut - e.g. the neckline and armhole seam are snipped to the tape - it is more difficult to get a smooth line to cut around.
- You only work on half the body
- You have to try on, then change, then try on etc. Not feasible in the classroom situation.
- I feel that it would be more difficult to ‘preserve’ the pattern once cut.
- As shown by my inaccuracies, it is difficult, particularly in a very limited space to lay out, smooth, ensure the alterations are correct, pin on place and then tape as suggested.
- It means that if you are asymmetrical, buying 2 patterns (not feasible in the UK with the cost of patterns - although this one was ‘free’, to buy another is quite pricey. We don’t get the super sales there are in the US). This is one of the reasons I usually trace (not always) as I like to preserve the pattern in its original condition.
- After tissue fitting, it’s recommended that the fashion fabric is used to make the ‘final tweaks’ - while this might in any case be needed after making a toile as the fabric properties are different, I’m reluctant to work too much with the fashion fabric - I already make too many mistakes and have to unpick etc.
- So, overall, I found it slow, rather difficult, it fails to preserve the original pattern tissue - and I felt I needed to make a full body piece as I am a bit asymmetrical.