Wednesday, 19 March 2014

Decision made about fabric for blouse!

I had intended to make up my blouse in red polyester/cotton. I said that I could then wear it if it worked out okay - some people I think call this a wearable muslin, although muslins don't usually have all the details added. I'm not going to be able to wear mine!

Anyway, my first problem was that I found I had dropped the bust fullness too low! All the problems I had in truing the pattern were entirely self made! I had to raise the bust fullness by 2"!

My second problem was that the muslin was too tight around my high hip and the waist area was too low. I had enough fabric to re-do the front and side front but not the back, where I also added width to hip area. My muslin is still too tight there but hopefully I can change this in proper version.

My third problem was that the chest area was a little tight. I released the front seam from underarm to notch as recommended in the instructions for the pattern. This appears to have helped and I think I have chosen the right cup size (C rather than D). However, this affects arm hole size and therefore sleeve size. I haven't worked out what to do yet.

The next problem was that I needed the back dart position changed and darts increased. This is only pinned roughly at present

I had sewn up the pattern with a 1" seam allowance - but that wasn't enough even though I had increased hip size when I made up pattern initially. I re-did with a 5/8" seam allowance but I still need more. I thought all of these patterns from the big 4 had excessive ease? Not so this one! I didn't want 6" of ease at the waist, which is why I've taken it in there. But it's really very fitted at bust and around hip. Too much so.

I have decided to go ahead and make up, to give me a chance to practice collar etc as I have never done a blouse before.

I go to class tomorrow and I hope to get my tutor to check the fit, if I get it sewn up tonight.

My final fabric will be a fuchsia polycotton. It's just been washed, so I can't post. I decided against my lovely small polka dot fabric as I felt that also trying to match pattern was too much for me at this stage. It's in the wings, though, for the next time if I get my fitting issues resolved.

Back to sewing so no photos yet.


  1. It's always tedious when this happens. I also find that some people write that the Big 4 have a lot of ease. I think the young people especially find this - I wonder if that is because they have grown up with stretch and form fitting clothes. Also, some garments are designed with more "design" ease - and others are more fitted. I measure (sometimes) the pattern pieces, or lay them out on something I know fits me. And I always muslin first, then maybe a test garment. I use old sheets for the muslin process. Finishing what you have started seems a good idea though, that way you will know how the whole thing goes together. Always disappointing, but with sewing these things happen - it's all part of the learning curve. I hope your tutor can help you solve the problems.

    1. Well, we learn more from our mistakes - so I must be learning a lot! I hope. If this garment works out, next time it should be much easier. I'm hoping to have the blouse more or less finished by Thursday when my tutor can check it. My next big challenge is evenly spaced and neatly sewn buttonholes - I haven't crossed that particular hurdle yet. I did a couple of buttonholes in the little girl's dress I made but they were far from perfect.

  2. Great job working everything out. It sounds like you are making amazing progress. Keep up the great work. :)

    1. Thank you. I think I am getting there ...


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