A Long Weekend in London

 I visited London, by train, with David for long weekend from late on Thursday evening until Tuesday, staying in a friend's flat in Islington.

Friday daytime, David had his own thing to do. I explored the local area, around Camden Passage, a bit then went to the medieval embroidery exhibition 'Opus Anglicanum: Masterpieces of English Medieval Embroidery' at the V and A . I enjoyed it but less so than I thought I would. There were major tube problems so it had taken me longer to get there than expected. 

David came and joined me for a latish quick lunch. Then we looked around the exhibition ‘You Say You Want a Revolution? Records and Rebels 1966-1970’.

We had headphones with appropriate music playing as we reached the correct part of the exhibition. I was at school during this period and pretty disinterested in music, politics and fashion - I would say I really only became aware of these in 1971, the year I started university, when I'd just turned 17. David is a few years older and was interested in music, playing and listening - and much more aware of political issues. But not fashion.

Two exhibitions on the one day is too much so I was glad to leave for my meeting with Kate. I left in good time but the ongoing tube issues on the Piccadilly Line made me a bit late. Kate of Fabrickated had said it would be nice if we could meet when I was in London. We arranged for me to pop into her office, close to where I was due to meet my oldest daughter. This was the best we could do with our clashing schedules. It was lovely to meet with someone you otherwise know only through their blog. I also briefly met Marijana of Sew2Pro,  whose blog I also follow, which was lovely. I stayed with Kate longer than either of us had planned as my daughter was held up. Even so, the time was brief and hopefully we will be able to meet for a longer period sometime in the future, outside the office environment.

David had originally planned to come with me but had to return to the flat to pick up Helen's parcels (her birthday presents and some parcels that had come to ours by post) and then made his way independently to Helen's flat. I ended up travelling there without waiting for Alison as she was so delayed and I was so cold. I usually associate London with heat but not this weekend! It was freezing.

Helen tried on her birthday skirt (see blog post, now updated with a photo).

To my surprise, Helen liked the skirt and it fitted!  Not so the ribbed polo jumper. Helen thought I'd bought a size too big based on the size label but it was actually a little small - but the neck didn't lie nicely, anyway, so that will go back. She didn't really comment on the sewing book I gave her!  ‘A Beginner's Guide to Making Skirts: Learn how to Make 24 Different Skirts from 8 Basic Shapes’ by Wendy Ward.  I think it looks good. She tried on the silk dress she wants me to hack to see what if any changes she wanted. I decided to go to Goldhawk Road on the Monday to see if I could buy suitable silk - red, sandwashed. Helen thought her dress was the perfect shade, really a true red but if the exact shade was not available, she'd prefer bluer rather than more orange. This surprised me - I need a cool red but I thought Helen was probably an autumn,  needing a warmer red. I'm no expert,  of course. 

Helen had made a lovely meal. She wasn't feeling well so even more amazing. This was the first time we'd been in her flat since the new bathroom was fitted and the decoration and furnishings finished. We'd taken a bottle of champagne for a celebratory drink. There was plenty of wine with the meal, too. A lovely evening. It was sad that Joanee couldn't join us. Afterwards, we had our first Uber trip back to Islington. Alison was staying with Helen.

On Saturday we all met up at Borough Market. 

Fabulous looking and tasting food. No photos of the amazing food - it was just too busy to even think of it. We bought some cheese (which we accidentally left behind in the flat but my friend is bringing it after her next trip down,  next week) but overall were very aware of carrying limitations. Lovely street food too. We went to the Christmas Fair in the nearby Cathedral (where amazingly one of Anthony's workmates was getting married that very day and we saw him arriving) Afterwards, Anthony left us to watch the England rugby game. 

The rest of us went to the Tate Modern to see the exhibition of Elton John's photographs ‘The Radical Eye: Modernist Photography from the Sir Elton John Collection’ and visit the Christmas market. The exhibition was interesting but not really my scene.  

We all met up for mulled wine and then travelled to Islington where we had a lovely meal in the Fig and Olive. And within walking distance of our flat. I don't have a suitable photo.

Sunday morning we visited Columbia Road Flower Market, which we love. Photos can't do justice to the colours, the smells, the atmosphere, so no photo! 

Unfortunately, we didn't feel able to carry any flowers etc home. I so wish we had similar on our doorstep. We could have spent a fortune! Alison did buy a little as she was going straight home and has since created some lovely DIY Christmas decorations - versions of what we saw. Helen still wasn't feeling well and feeling really cold so we went back with her to her flat. We had a lovely lunch and left her to recuperate.

Afterwards,  David and I went to the Barbican to visit ‘The Vulgar. Fashion Redefined’ exhibition.

I really wasn't sure about this exhibition. David liked it. I found the concept a little pretentious, I think. Maybe I just have a different definition of vulgar. I did enjoy the fashion. Amazingly, this was my first visit to the Barbican. As it was Sunday,  the Conservatory was open. An amazing space. However, rather dark. I guess in daylight it's brighter. Some of the displays were ill-lit, too,  and I had great difficulty reading the badly positioned placards,  twice briefly setting off the alarm. Nevertheless, I would go back. We got back to the flat much more quickly than we had got there. Quiet, simple night in. Warmer, since we managed turn the heating on.

When we left the flat on Monday to travel west, we found that there has been a massive flood from a burst water main,  causing millions of pounds worth of damage and so much distress on our doorstep. Camden Passage which I had visited and had coffee was at the centre of this. The retailers rely on Christmas trade so the timing is particularly devastating for them and the affected householders. Traffic, including buses, was diverted away. There were so many emergency vehicles and police.

We travelled to Goldhawk Road by tube. I was extremely focused and didn't buy fabric other than the silk! I looked at all the shops but ended up returning to the first I'd tried; the one we thought we'd buy in had a beautiful green (Helen's 2nd choice) but not the correct red. I hadn't realised that so many of the shops are linked. As I walked on,  I was asked if the fabric I'd seen in the previous shop hadn't suited. In one case, they had obviously gone to one of the other shops to bring me a bolt.

David bought a leather hide in Missan West, which had opened there since we last visited, though we have shopped in the Soho branches. He plans to make a camera bag. While there, we also visited Shepherd’s Bush Market. I bought a couple of zips. There were a few stalls selling haberdashery but I was focused!

I went to Oxford Street afterwards while David returned to the flat with his unwieldy hide. I couldn't cope with the crowds. There was no pleasure in it. I did see a coat I liked - cost £3350!! Simple, beautifully made - I aspire towards this. I don't think I bought anything at all and when David and I met up later it wasn't long before we gave up! 

We had dinner in Mem & Laz Brasserie in Islington. The highlight of this restaurant is the display of fabulous lights, which I tried to photograph on my phone but this didn't work.

Tuesday - home. A relief, to be honest. I've since started on the pattern for Helen's dress but it is a bit more complex than I realised - getting there,  though. I'll take it to Dan's Sewing Bee on Monday evening to see if I can progress. No point in posting photos yet - to come!

Not much time before Christmas! 

My Top 5 Best Makes 2016

I'm joining Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow in the top 5 of 2016

Given that I spent most okay all of the 6 months leading up to my daughter's wedding designing and making dresses,  it's no surprise that wedding day finery tops my list - though I ran out of time to make my own outfit. After the wedding was over, I had no sewjo, so my output for the year to date is not great. I found that I needed the impetus from a contest, with a deadline, to achieve anything. Sad, really! I do have some other items, including items for me, that are not yet finished so I can't include at the time of writing this - I'll save it in draft to see if I do achieve anything else.

With all of the following, there are things I could improve. One of my resolutions, though, is not to be so hard on myself.

1

Helen's wedding dress

I think it is simple looking and sophisticated,  yet with that youthful edge. It's so totally Helen.

Helen had a large part to play in deciding what she wanted, modified by my lack of skills - some things were never on the cards! I learned a lot. I struggled a lot.  But I came through.

This was a self drafted pattern - unfortunately,  Helen didn't want one of the standard available patterns. (She was right,  though)

We chose a beautiful quality sandwashed silk crepe as the main fabric and this was underlined and lined with silk,  too - charmeuse and habotai.

It fitted her beautifully.

She loved it and she and I had compliments galore.

No, sorry, I have no plans at all to set up any kind of business...

You really couldn't afford me...

Cost of dress - priceless!

Blog post link: here

2

Bridesmaid dresses times 2

Helen and her two sisters were heavily involved in deciding what they wanted.

Again, these were self drafted patterns, each slightly different to take account of figure differences. Alison wanted a wider band while Joanne preferred narrower to emphasise her waist. Alison is a carrot or inverted triangle and Joanne is an hourglass.

The fabric was a lovely quality crepe back satin in the exact shade of the groom's tie. It was lined and interlined.

The skirts were circle skirts. After hanging, there was some (a lot!) unevenness in the hem and because a fair bit got cut off,  a band was added to increase the length to that desired.

I ran out of time and the final dresses were sewn by a dressmaker,  including the necessary band, but I very much consider them my makes as I had made and fitted so many toiles and of course designed the pattern.

Successful. Blog post here

3

Still on the wedding - groom’s waistcoat

This was made using a Burda pattern. The pattern was slightly lengthened and slimmed down a lot to fit my son-in-law and meet his ease preferences.

The fabric was a beautiful wool silk chosen by my daughter and sil for its colour as well as its quality. The colour exactly matched his Cambridge blue tie  (the bridesmaid dress fabric was bought at the same time). The fabric sewed beautifully.

The back of the waistcoat was a surprise for the wedding guests - it was silk printed with a slightly reduced version of our family tartan. The silk was rather slippery and difficult to get the checks to stay square and lined up properly - I got help from David. I had never made a waistcoat but enjoyed this and it looked good.

A has worn it since and has further plans for it in 2017.

I'd certainly make another waistcoat.
Blog post here

4

Shorts/culottes for Joanne - times 2

At Joanne's request, I hacked her favourite pair of shorts (she calls them shorts, I thought of them as culottes but others on PR didn't agree and shorts they were!) for her birthday.

First toile after tracing 

Working toile - I needed to work out the various factors

I used double georgette for the body of the shorts and the same double georgette for the lining. The lining was bagged at the bottom, with guipure lace inserted between the layers. The shorts had side pockets and the pocket on the left had a concealed zip hidden inside. I was very pleased to master that particular skill as I can see it being very useful in future.

Blog post here and here

I was very pleased with the shorts and posted them off to Joanne - then less than 2 weeks later, PR had its Sewing Bee contest and the task for the first round was to create a pair of shorts! I had to make another pair!

This time, because of time constraints (there was less than a week from announcement to submission), I wasn't able to send off for the same lovely double georgette. I was able to buy georgette locally-ish but it just wasn't the same quality and was more difficult to cut and to sew. Unfortunately, too, the local shop had guipure lace of a different design, but not enough of it, so the second pair had identical lace.

Joanne agreed to model the shorts for the contest (a requirement was that they were photographed on a model) but again, because of time constraints, this wasn't possible and I borrowed a model from my sewing bee! I was surprised to get through to the next round.

I still haven't seen Joanne in either pair! One problem was the shorts were so similar (she did want black!) that she's a little concerned, I believe, that others will think she's wearing the one pair of shorts continuously. But no, she didn't agree with my suggestion of a different colour, or longer etc.

Blog post here and here
PR Sewing Bee entry here

5

Shirt for my older grandson (aged 7)

Last year, I saw a shirt Deepika on Pattern review had made and fell in love with the fabric., which I was able to buy from the US, the only source I could find at the time. I loved the Modern geek fabric. This fitted so beautifully with my grandson's interests, that I bought it and planned to make shirts for him and for hos younger brother. That was supposed to be around Christmas last year but it didn't happen, needless to say.

The the PR sewing for Children contest came up. This time I had a month, as is usual with the contests other than the sewing bee. I made up a toile in age 9 but ended up increasing the real thing to age 10. I haven't done the shirt for his little brother as yet, but hope there will still be enough fabric left.

I made no changes to the pattern (see what I mean - it's so much easier to sew for others - especially children). My grandson likes the shirt and has chosen it to wear on a few occasions. I don't have a great photo of him wearing it. There are a couple of photos but, well, they're not very good.

PR Contest entry here
Blog post here 

6

Okay, I'm cheating - I'm including a garment number 6 in case you don't feel I should have included the bridesmaid dresses (I didn't ever put these on PR)

Garment 5/6 is the most recent skirt I've made for Helen.

It's my most recent blog post.

I like it and would make it again.

I think it is a good practice for the tartan skirt which I will eventually make Helen using our family tartan.

For Christmas, I have a few other garments on the cards. A hacked silk dress for Helen and kimonos for Joanne and Alison. I hope I will get them done but as I draft this doc, they're not even started. I was going to save this post until later, but it's probably better now as we're all busy in the next few weeks.

I've noticed, as I'm sure you will have, too, that all the above are garments for others. I've come to realise that I actually prefer sewing for family than for myself, I think due to fit issues. I do have a few of the things I've made for myself that would be better in the 'disaster, dahling' section. I think the 'misses' section will be next!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Another tartan skirt 'wearable muslin' for Helen

Pleated skirt for Helen

On Missy

Some of you may remember that for last Christmas I was going to make Helen a full pleated skirt from our family tartan, at her request. I ran into problems with time and with the rendition of the skirt. I didn't use a pattern. I made a full pleated toile using another plaid, not our own tartan, which looked quite nice but I felt had problems with the closure. No, I didn't just feel that - it had. I didn't get the opportunity at that stage to move on from that version of the toile. These photos are from Christmas 2015.

I also had the skirt quite long as I felt that a traditional pleated skirt should be around knee length. Helen didn't really want a traditional pleated skirt, simply a skirt made of tartan. Unspecified design.

This is DH wearing his kilt in our tartan.

I started to think about it again this year after the wedding, some recovery time and the PR Sewing Bee. I planned to make it either for Helen's birthday or for her Christmas. I spoke with Helen a while back.

I felt that, apart from the side zip closure on the full pleated toile, there were issues with weight - a full pleated skirt is very heavy, particularly in a medium weight wool tartan. Another major issue was that the waistline was too big. To create a smaller waistline, it's necessary to fold over the pleat more at the top than at the bottom. If there are enough pleats, as there are in a full pleated skirt, this is scarcely noticeable. If we reduced the number of pleats to lighten the skirt, it could be very noticeable.

Still under construction here - you can see that the pleats are deeper at the top to create a smaller waist.
This is the side closure that gave me so many problems

We discussed styles but didn't really come up with a clear plan - discussion time was limited. I did show Helen two patterns. On the basis of our discussion, I went ahead and made a toile from McCall's 7022 in the version shown here - view B.

McCall's 7022, view B - I like this view and bought the pattern after seeing it

This is the toile, below, worn by someone else in my class. It's made of medium weight calico. I thought it was pretty good and sent it off by post to Helen for fitting and pinning (I thought it unlikely that it would fit perfectly and I can't use Missy for fitting any more; I reckoned it would be too big) I heard nothing, so chased her up and learned that the skirt was too long and too loose at the waist, as expected, amount unspecified. 

Sewing class side view on classmate

Sewing class back view on classmate

Sewing class side view on classmate

Sewing class front view on classmate

In my Thursday sewing bee, I explored how I would develop the pattern, using the width of a tartan set to determine the pleat width. I noticed that the pleat markings are not parallel all the way down. Lyn said this is to create waist shaping (so rather like the pleat issue on the earlier tartan full pleated toile). I was surprised how much waist shaping there was as there is a yoke, which already has any darts built into it. I was worried about trying to make the skirt as is (well, a smaller size) because of this issue - I didn't want my pleats to be uneven.

I also considered changing the two knife pleats into an inverted pleat and sent Helen a sample (the other side was a box pleat, of course)

The pattern comes with two other versions. An A-line skirt without pleats (versions C and D) and a full circle skirt (versions E and F), both on the same yoke.

I originally planned to alter the pleat position, size and orientation but use the original skirt version, in a smaller size and shorter. I puzzled over how to include my pleats at the width I wanted. The original pattern front is cut in two pieces - presumably that's even more shaping. I had decided by this time that I wanted to have the inverted pleat rather than the knife pleats. So I looked at how I would do that. I struggled. I couldn't see how to do it and decided that it was probably easier to add the pleats to the plain A-line version. Lyn agreed. 

Then I remembered that in a telephone conversation, Helen had mentioned the possibility of a circular skirt. I hadn't been sure because of the way a plaid would lie in a circle skirt. I decided in class that I would indeed make the circular skirt version of the pattern, in a shorter length, one size smaller.

I decided, however, that the full circle was too much for a wool plaid and proceeded to remove some of the circle, following advice from Lyn. I guess I took out about 6" from each quarter of the skirt - so about 24" from the total circumference - that is wedges starting at the hem and tapering out at the yoke seam. The seam length to be attached to the yoke was unchanged.

The pattern comes in two lengths and I had previously made the longer one. This time, I split the difference, shortening from the longer pattern length by approx 5 cms.

So I made up a standard size 10 yoke. The skirt was between lengths and had a slightly reduced width at the hem. I made this up as a rather fancy toile, using a remnant of a lighter weight wool plaid I had in my stash. I took it to class to make a pleated version and there would have been enough fabric to make a skirt. However, because I decided to make a circular skirt, I was very short of fabric. I was unable to match the fabric pattern at the sides. Nor did I have enough for the yoke facing. I decided that I would fully line the skirt and facing, using a fairly standard type lining material.

I had no problems making up the skirt. I didn't entirely follow the instruction order because I was lining the skirt. Another slight change was that the pattern had the back on the cross grain, the front on the straight of grain but Lyn advised me to keep the back on the straight of grain too.

The following photos are on Missy. She's okay for modelling but not for fitting as Helen changed quite a bit running up to her wedding.

Finished skirt front - on straight of grain

An idea of the circle shape, one side held out

The skirt back, on straight of grain

I made up the skirt, made up the lining 1" shorter, joined the lining to the skirt at the top, understitched etc, inserted the centred zip, stitched the lining to the zip tapes at the sides and then stitched the lining yoke seam to the skirt yoke seam, hidden above the junction. I did the zip and the yoke seam by hand. All seam allowances were overlocked to reduce fray. 

Inside of skirt, back

I then hung the skirt up for two days to allow the hem to drop - and it did drop rather unevenly. I measured and cut off down to the same length all around. I had to do this from measurements on the fabric as of course I had no live model to allow me to measure from the floor.

Very little to be removed at back seam, on straight grain

Rather more to be removed where skirt was on bias

I double turned the hem and hand stitched.

Showing double turned skirt hem. Yes, and simple overlocked lining hem!

The lining was now too long so I measured and then decided to trim off using the overlocker rather than make a proper hem. Lazy I know - but then, this is a fancy toile and by this time I had feedback from Helen that she wasn't sure what style she wanted and didn't really like the yoke, she'd prefer a narrow waistband...

I didn't lose heart, though. I have had loads of admiring comments about the finished skirt. It is eminently wearable. My original class model is currently making up the knife pleated version of the skirt for herself and declared it to be her favourite pattern. She's doing it in denim and it looks very good.

I'm giving the skirt (as is) to Helen as part of her birthday present (next week) - it would be fairly easy to reduce the waist and yoke at the side seam if necessary though I don't think it should be. It's a nice skirt. Although it is a toile, I think this is truly a 'wearable toile' or 'wearable muslin' - it is finished in every respect. I've also bought a grey ribbed polo neck to go with it. Others have pointed out that the hem of the polo neck will cover the yoke, anyway. 

The ribbed polo neck looks tiny compared to skirt! Perspective to get everything in photo.

Helen has asked me to 'hack' and slightly modify her favourite red sand-washed silk dress, which is worn out past the point of acceptability, for her Christmas (instead of the tartan skirt - no way can I manage both!). She was going to do it herself in emerald green velvet (she looks fabulous in green). Helen's dressmaking skills aren't quite there yet. I've agreed to do the pattern if she gives me the dress home with me, or we might have time to do it when I visit. I'd like to make it up in red sand-washed silk for her. Does anyone have any idea where I could buy sand-washed silk in the UK? Yes, I know I could get the same stuff as I used for the wedding dress but that is ivory or white and would need dyed and is mega-bucks (that was from Soho). It doesn't need to be of such high quality. Preferably red or dark green or dyable (my spellchecker doesn't accept that as a word - should it be 'able to be dyed'?).

I wrote this up with no plans to publish it until after Helen had seen the skirt, tried it on and commented - I'm visiting her next week. I don't think she'll see this blog post - but I have already sent her a photo of the skirt so that's not new to her.  However, I have decided to publish the post in the hope that someone can give me a source for the silk. I can buy in London (assuming a London source, I know - otherwise mail order) when I visit as I have a little free time.

I'd be grateful for your comments and possible silk sources, TIA