I saw this first blouse, version A, for her as hopefully a wearable muslin, so I didn't use the fabric she initially chose.
I used size 12 based on upper bust measurement and made a FBA of about 4cms, hoping that this, in addition to the quoted 10cms ease, would allow enough room for her 32F/G bust.
This is the finished blouse on my model.
She was ill at Christmas so I didn't see her but she sent me a photo and comments:
Too low in neckline - would need to wear camisole or vest.
Liked blouse overall.
It was too tight across the bust. She was wearing it with a camisole but there was little or no ease, certainly not the 10cms quoted in the design, though of course I knew that was going to be reduced by my probably smaller than required FBA. The diagonal lines are obvious.
The shoulder width was slightly too much, but probably not a big issue.
- The key thing is to do a bigger bust adjustment, I think. Unfortunately, the dart was already very big so I wonder if this means that an additional dart is required? Or am I better to change styles and go for Princess seams?
- In addition, the dart placements and length need altered. I need to move in vertical waist darts and shorten by about 1.5cm (5/8"). I need to drop bust dart by about 1cm but don't know what I need to do about length as bust point is further over.
- If the bust fullness is altered to be in the correct place, does this mean I will need less increase in bust fullness than it seems at the moment? There was distinct bagginess at the dart tips - I'm not sure how much this was due to faulty technique.
- If the bust fullness is in the right place, then presumably the blouse would sit down better? Would this reduce the gapiness of the neckline or would it still need altered? The two alterations I'm thinking of are either putting in a gap dart and/or raising neckline slightly.
- I don't think I should do a size smaller even though shoulder is marginally too wide. If I did, sleeve would also need lengthened. Open to advice.
- The back is too tight - do I need to do a wide back adjustment? If I did, which pieces would that affect - just collar?
- Obviously, at the moment the bust is not sitting in the area created for it so that means the whole thing is rather tight and, I'm assuming, cannot sit down properly.
Questions for you
- I will alter the tissue pattern. Is this the best route to go or start with a completely new pattern? Say a Princess seamed top?
- This size? Or size smaller?
- Is there a best order to do the adjustments?
When I finally get around to making up again, I'm planning to use a slightly crisper shirting rather than this soft medium weight cotton
I'm determined that my inside finish will be lovely, so I'm
considering French seams or lapped seams - which of these would be better or is
there a better technique I haven't considered?