I'd now sewn two toiles/muslins. My last post detailed the changes I made following the first toile.
- Excess fabric was pinned from bust point up to shoulder and from bust point down to waist
- Excess fabric was pinned at back princess seam line between back and side back
- The lengths of the side panels didn't match - extra fabric was turned under in back upper side panel, making it shorter.
- When the front was pinned to the correct length, fabric was about ½” shorter than it needed to be
- I didn't pin the back length - or rather, didn't get David to pin it. I decided to remove the excess length later.
- Taking in excess fabric as detailed above, ensuring the front central panel stayed straight, so most of the excess fabric taken from very curved side upper panel.
- Reducing front side princess seam allowances to ⅜” for easier sewing later
- Reducing side seams to ⅝” (though I ended up using the 1" allowance, anyway)
- While modifying line of bust, I slightly lowered bust point and added more fullness there as I thought from the toile this was necessary (see later - this was a mistake)
- Lengthening front length
- Truing upper side panels
- I still wasn't 100% sure about the fitting at the side. i had lost the instructions (I still haven't found them and I'm sure this would have helped!)
|Front view. It looks better in real life!|
|Back view. My zip was pretty good but I see that kink at the bottom of the zip. I did pres and then iron it before I wore it, but I was sitting around before these photos.|
|Close up of junction at side|
|Out of focus photo of bias binding. Sorry, too tired to redo|
|I'm trying to show the marked difference between edges to be joined (back of dress)|
Next time, if I was starting again, I would be tempted to use the 'average' body parts rather than the 'curvy' as I didn't need some of the extra space allowed where it was given.
- I had to lengthen the front to drop the bust point and the waist.
- Note that this was the most difficult part. If I hadn't had to do this, the pattern would have fitted together perfectly and I wouldn't have had difficulty at the side seam. I think my changes are incorrectly trued or presumably it would still have fitted together okay.
- I increased the bust shaping by moving the outside princess seam in towards the bust point and adding to the side.
- I made the front princess seams less A-line shape, taking away fabric from the front centre and adding to the side front. I have posted about these already. I didn't, however, reduce the side seams in the dress, though drew in my referred line on the pattern for a future occasion.
- I used a bigger size for the 'skirt' section.
I have edited the post to correct a couple of typos and add a touch of detail. I had to get it in quickly or forget about it. As I received the pattern free of charge from Simplicity for the challenge, I felt I was duty bound to go ahead to post. Quite a few people have read the original post but I don't have any comments. Please don't be afraid to criticise!! I'm a big girl and value observations and helpful tips. I'm well aware of the deficiencies of my dress here. I think this dress was much harder to fit than I anticipated.