Monday, 7 November 2016

A post note - the tee is a wadder

I took the blue tee shirt (Cashmerette Concird) to class tonight - see 2 previous posts.  I found it very uncomfortable as after wearing it for no more than a few seconds and a bit of  movement, it would start to ride up and the front neck pushed against my throat and it felt tight and uncomfortable under the arm. There was excess fabric in front of the armscye.

The neckline was puckered in part because I hadn't trimmed it adequately (taking shortcuts as this had been a toile). I snipped the neck and that helped the neckline issue - it lay much better and the puckers diminished. Though I still found the shape odd, which I put down to the shoulder seam being too far forward for me.

My assumption was that the tee shirt was too tight, hence it riding up to a smaller part of my body. I put this down to the fabric being firmer with less stretch than the original, though still meeting the stretch criterion specified by the pattern. . I wondered if the folds of fabric were an indication of needing a FBA. I wasn't sure about other issues.

Rory and Dan agreed the tee was too tight. There was distinct tautness across the front. They were also concerned about the shape of the sleeve, though additional fabric at the front bodice would help this. They thought the armhole was a bit small and high. The other ladies in the class thought there was too much fabric at the back, as I had, as I could grab an inch at each side just behind the side seam.

I decided it wasn't possible to make further changes to this tee that would in any way improve the fit.

Rory felt that the pattern needed rather more change as the too far forward shoulder could be amplifying the issue and asked me to take it to class to get checked before making another.

I no longer have this tee shirt. You're surely not surprised! The other ladies in class asked if I couldn't wear to garden or do the vacuuming. However, I said it was really too uncomfortable. Rory said I was a perfectionist. I don't think it needed a perfectionist to reject that tee!!

Will I make another? I'm really not sure. Is it worth it? I'm really not sure. I rather feel I would be better starting with a closer starting point. I'm really not sure, though. Certainly, I have no plans for one over the next few months.

6 comments:

  1. I was intrigued by your T shirt experiments Anne. Although not perfect I like the look of a neat T on you. It is rather flattering. I think you look terrific in younger, closer fitting items.

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    1. Thank you, Kate. I prefer a neat tee too. This one wasn't it, though.

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  2. I think the first attempts at making anything new tend to be less than perfect. But that's how we learn. I think one problem with being an older learner in sewing is the tendency to want to get things right - it comes from years of being "grown up". And needing to look "grown up". Youngsters can wear anything. But there is a lot to be said for not worrying too much - I wear all my less than perfects, with something good, or just as loungewear. I can't bear to throw work and effort out.

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    1. Thank you, Sarah Liz. Lots to learn! I agree with your comments. I would have worn this tee from the appearance point of view, certainly - but it was uncomfortable. I'm finding it easier to discard - previously, items hung around and didn't make me feel good (I was going to say taunted me but that's ridiculous!). I've decided that muslins/toiles are for experimentation and if I get to wear them, well that's a bonus!

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  3. Does Cashmerertte indicate what cup size they design for? I wonder if their target is a smaller cup size, so that their distribution of bust circumference is too wide in the back & too narrow in the front for you, & therefore the arm hole also sits more forward than what you need? Sometimes it can be a posture difference too. By conventional formula I should be a B cup, but my skin-tight moulage is closer to a D cup (Rigby & Peller also puts me in a D cup). So I'd say definitely try a smaller size with an FBA. Also, do RTW t-shit's fit you well without bust darts? If not then don't shy away from a bust dart if you need one for good fit in a T-shirt. We may be expecting too much from stretch fabrics! :-)

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    1. Thank you for commenting.
      Cashmerette designs for larger busts in plus sizes 12 -28. There is a choice of bust size. C/D, E/F and G/H. By their size suggestion I would have been C/D but that didn't work at all, far too tight. I ended up making the G/H bust size. Using a larger size of bust than indicated is in common with a number of reviewers. It still felt too tight.
      In Rigby and Peller recently, I was 38DD.
      After the problems I had, I contacted Cashmerette and they confirmed that they include an inbuilt forward shoulder adjustment (which I don't need) as well as an inbuilt sway back adjustment (which I probably do).
      I'm happy to do FBAs and don't mind bust darts - indeed I'm creating one in a Grainline Morris. Generally my RTW stretch tops fit. The particular stretch fabric I used for the T was probably too firm. The big problem, though not the only one, according to my class tutor, see above, was the shoulder position, hence the T was a wadder. I probably won't try again as I'd prefer to use my blocks and prefer natural woven fabrics.

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