Wednesday, 19 April 2017

The trousers that were never meant to be!

So there I was ready to make up a final pair of trousers after the pattern had been altered, again. (I'm not ready to post the saga of getting from there to here as yet!) I realised they'd be a bit short after the extra crotch work that had been done. I reckoned I might get away with a tiny hem and they'd still be okay.  In reality I thought they'd be another toile. Hopefully a wearable muslin. What's another toile between friends? I wasn't convinced that I could just jump from where I was to a final garment as there had been very major changes between the last toile that didn't fit too badly and this one.

The tops of the trousers were trimmed down in line with the marks previously made during fitting by Rory (with the addition of a seam allowance)

I pinned them together ready to sew but I realised I didn't have thread of a suitable colour or a suitable invisible zipper (I was going to do a side zip for this wearable toile). So I waited until the shops reopened after Easter and bought thread and a zip. The colours weren't perfect but zips come in a limited selection of shades. Good enough. I had a lot of other errands during which the zip fell out of my bag, David noticed and replaced it - but it wasn't there when I got home! No joy tracing  it. No word in the days since. What would happen to a naked zip lying on the ground, after all?

I sewed up the trousers and overlocked the raw seam edges. Disaster! I accidentally caught and cut a 2” section at the front near the seam. I've put interfacing behind it and stitched over it but it's very obvious and these trousers are not wearable even as a wearable toile. Still, I had never really thought they would be.

The area cut by the serger

I proceeded with the zip insertion which went okay. I actually had a suitable zip after all!

In reality, these trousers are not a good fit. I need to allow more room at my high hip - there was distinct pulling at that level. I've decided I do after all need to raise the front. I'll do trousers with a high waist, waistband and belt loops as I think that will suit my figure type better. 


Lots of wrinkles  Not good. The seams don't hang straight





I've turned the facing up. That's a bit better

Front much too low. I do have a sloping waist but not by this much,surely?


The photos show both the low front waist and where I'm going to raise it to. I don't have photos with the belt before I marked it (what was going on today?)




Rory wasn't able to take the sewing bee today. Towards the end,  I asked Dan to have a look at the trousers to see if she agreed about the pulling. She did and pinned out and photographed the extra needed, well the gap and measured it, and drew the darts in a better place - the back darts were decidedly wonky and pointing to the wrong place. The side seams are twisted (when they had been so good before!)  but I'll make the other changes and leave this for the moment. Unfortunately only a couple of the photos taken have worked. Different phones!
I need this extra at the back mid seam
I need this extra at the side high hip (2cms)
So there's still quite a bit of work to be done. Who said trouser making was easy?

8 comments:

  1. I found your blog via Rhonda Buss. I feel your pain regarding making pants. I finally had success using the Eureka! Pants that Fit pattern and Sarah Veblen's class from Pattern Review.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Sydney. I've heard of the Eureka! pants but have never seen them. There are some good reviews. As you have just come across my blog via Rhonda, you may not know I am attending classes and getting help. I still feel pain, though! I'm glad you've found success and I hope I get there too!!

      Delete
  2. Anne! Anne! Anne!
    Pants are easy to make a trial to fit.
    You may recall my summer- long journey of working with Sarah Veblen . I perfected a pants pattern tha I call my Platinum Pants Pattern. For several years I have turned out perfectly fitting shorts, capris and pants.
    And thelate.y the did not fit at all!
    I did just admit to Sarah that I was very lazy and did not trace the pattern. Frankly I did not respect my own time, work and money. Foolish me.
    It is a jumbled mess.
    And I have lost weight and they still don't fit.
    But Sarah and I shall work together to rectify this situation.
    Soldier on my friend, younare almost there! And the results will be well worth it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you, Susan. I don't think I was following your blog at the time you mention. I'm sorry to hear about your latest situation! Do you mean that you will be working directly with Sarah? I'm rather envious!! Yes, I'm sure I'll get there! One day! Yes, and it will be worth it! I look forward to those shorts, capris and pants.

      Delete
  3. O my, that's a lot of bad luck! I'm sure you'll get there and have a wonderful pants pattern!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, Marianne. Yes, I will get there! It's not that bad as bad luck goes though is it? Maybe careless is a better description!

      Delete
  4. I'm a firm believer in making simple pants with a waistband that finishes at the waist for a first pair of pants. That way you have a fixed point. And if the trousers dip down from the waist, you know you need to add. Modern trousers are often cut with a curve and a dip at the front and use a contour band. I don't think this is a good idea for beginners. Certain key areas are needed - waist, crotch depth and hip. And when fitting, put on the waistband, it helps to keep everything in place. These are my amateur thoughts only, of course...but I think they are logical?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Logical indeed! I also think it's best to change only one thing at a time and test. There have been multiple changes. I've decided to follow a more logical and basic process on my own and ask R only if necessary to look at one thing and with her concentrate on dressmaker's model torso block. This might not take any longer as I think we've been going around in circles!

      Delete

Thank you for taking the time to visit my blog. Please leave a comment. I welcome each and every one. I value criticism (constructive of course! ), love hints and tips and would appreciate suggestions for future direction.

Is it me? You decide! and update Saturday

This should really be a tablet and/or phone - and PC too I've said before that technology and social media are leaving me behind,...